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BULANDSHOFDI PASS. - Page 244. 



THE ISLAND OF FIRE; 



OR, 



A Thousand Years of the Old Northmen's Home. 874-1874. 




BOILINQ MUD. 



By rev. p. C. he able Y, 
Author of ** Life of the Empress Josephine," &o. 



BOSTON: 
LEE AND SHEPARD, PUB 



LISHERS. 



NEW YORK: 
LEE, SHEPARD, & DILLINGHAM. 

1875. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by 

Rev. p. C. HEADLEY, 
In the Oifice of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






Boston : 

Stereotyped and Printed bt 

Rand, Avery, & Co. 



/ s<^ 



/ 



TO 



GEORGE FRANKLIN PINKHAM, ESQ., 



OF WOLLASTON HEIGHTS, IN AKCIENT *' VINIiAls^D," WHOSE BEAUTIFUL 

HIGHLANDS OF PILGRIM MEMORY, WITH THEIR RURAL, 

SUBURBAN HOMES, CONTRAST SO STRONGLY 

WITH THE LAVA-SLOPES OF ICELAND, 



^fjfg Uolutne is Ensrribety bg fits JUxitnti, 



THE AUTHOK. 



WoLLASTON Heights, Mass., 
November, 1874. 



OOI^TEI^TS. 



CHAPTER I. Page. 
The Northern Sea-Rovers in the Land of the Moor. —The First 
Battle. — The Terror of Europe. —Their Arms. —Their Tri- 
umphs. — Their Passion for Bloody Encounters. — They dis- 
cover Iceland 9 

CHAPTER n. 

The ISTorthman's Contempt of Death. — Love of Arms. — 
National Games. —JSTational Worship. —The Gods. —Moral 
Precepts. — The Historical Odin 18 

CHAPTER in. 
Who lived in Northern Europe before the Goths ? — Lost History. 
— A Hundred Languages. — Five a Majority. — The Finns and 
Lapps 28 

CHAPTER lY. 

Two Thousand Years Ago. — The Gift of Fire. — The Lava- 
Island. — The Green Margins and Valleys. — Traveller's Im- 
pressions 31 

CHAPTER V. 

Emigration to Iceland. — Farewell Festivals. — Floki Rafna. — 
A Thousand Years Ago 34 

CHAPTER YL 

Pilgrim Nobles from Norway. — Harald's Price, Four Ounces of 
Silver. — No Indians to fight. — They have Conflicts. — A 
Republic made to Order. — Its Constitution. — The Althing. — 
The First Chief Magistrate 39 

CHAPTER YIL 

The Magnificent Capitol. — Built when the Island was made. — 
The National Court. — Tents and Booths. — The Incendiary. — 

His Escape 45 

5 



6 ' CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER yni. 

Embarking for Eeykjavik. — Copenhagen. — Rocky Isles. — The 
Keedles and Arch of Portland Head. — Westman Islands. — 
Columbus visited them. ~ Bird-Lamps. — First Glimpses. — 
Impressive Scenes 49 

CHAPTER IX. 
Icelanders discover Greenland and America. — The Wonderful 
History. — Mysterious Disappearance. — The First Yankee born 
in America, nearly Nine Hundred Years Ago. — Thoriinn 
returns to Iceland. — Death. — The Widow a Pilgrim and 
Recluse 68 

CHAPTER X. 

The Sea-Rovers' Ships. — An Illustrious Emigrant. — Interesting 
Ceremonies. — Tunnlang and the Poet Rafn. — A True Love- 
Story of the Early Period. — The Beautiful Helga. — An An- 
cient Poet-Laureate. — He wins the Hand of Helga. — A 
Gloomy Festival. — A Duel. — A Traitor. — The Sad Ending 
of a Domestic Tragedy in High Life ^ 

CHAPTER XL 
A Gigantic Work. — Thorwaldsen's Funeral.— Common Phrases. 

— Some Words. — Jack and Jill. — Old Nick . . . .74 

CHAPTER XIL 
The Icelander's Home. — Dinner at Yidoe. — Occupations. — 
Dress. — Education. — Schools. — Pastoral Care. — Sabbath 
Scenes 80 

CHAPTER XIII. 
An Icelandic Funeral. —A Wedding. — Kissing. — Peril of an 
Ignorant Bride. — The Parish Church Scene. — Religious Char- 
acter. — Parish Register. — Yule 91 

CHAPTER XIY. 

Phenomena of the Heavens. — Mock Suns. — Storm Rings. — 
Aurora. — Meteors. — Tempests. — Icelander's Wealth. — Do- 
mestic Animals. —Swans and Ravens. —The Eider-Duck and 
its Down. —The Sacred Bird. — Reindeer. —Salmon-Festival. 

— Sheep-Gathering Iqq 

CHAPTER XV. 

Fairy-Land. — Witchcraft. — Berkserkers. — Superstitions of 
Domestic Life. — Signs and Omens. — A Ghostly Saga . . 110 



CONTENTS. 7 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Mdsfell. —The Ride from Eej^kjavik — Yankee Doodle.-— Beau- 
tiful Midnight-Sceiie. — Sontarek, or Son's Loss. . . . 122 

CHAPTER XVn. 

Grettlr, the Hero and Outlaw of Iceland. — His Birthplace. — 
On the Sea. — The Red Rovers 133 

CHAPTER XVni. 
Sons of an Icelandic Chief in Norway. — Grettir stranded near 
their Winter Home. — He swims the Fiord. — Burning of the 
Hostel. — Grettir arrested. — The Trial by Burning Plough- 
shares. — Returns to Iceland. — His Mother - . . .153 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Haunted Sheepf olds. — Strange Shepherd. — His Fate. — Grettir 
succeeds Him. — Terrible Scenes. — Final Struggle. — The Vam- 
pire's Grave 1G6 

CHAPTER XX. 
Grettir, in Despair, seeks Counsel. — His Last Refuge. — Out- 
law's Isle. — Solitary Life. — Hunted there and killed . . 180 

CHAPTER XXI. 
The Christian Era in Iceland. — The Gathering at Thingvalla. — 
The High Debate. — The Thunder of a Convulsion. — The 
Great Decision — Golden Age. — Skalds. — An Icelandic Skald ~ 
at Canute's Court. — Written Constitution. — A Challenge. — 
Kithing 208 

CHAPTER XXIL 

The Northmen's Oldest Book of History. — Genius in Iceland. — 
The Illustrious Trio. — Fu\st Prin ting-Press. — First School. — 
Bill of Students' Fare. — Study of Poetry. — Its Fabled Origin 216 

CHAPTER XXin. 

Music. — Education in Common Life. — Preamble of Public 
Address. — Modern Authors. — The Lord's Prayer tu 1585 and 
inl874. — National Suicide. —The Reformation . . . .226 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

An Excursion to the' Guldbringe Syssel, or Goldbringing 
District. — The Outfit. — Bessestad. — Boiling Springs. — An 
Unexplained Wonder. — Guldbringe Syssel. — Stappen. — 
Reykholt.— Scenes along Paths of Travel 238 



8 CONTENTS, 

CHAPTER XXY. 

Excursions among the Mountains, and along the Coast. — The 
Geyser. — Uncomplaining Kesignation. — The Strokr . . 2i9 

CHAPTER XXYI. 

Mount Hecla. — Magnificent Yiew from its Top. — Sturtshellir 
Cavern. — Its Wild Mythology and Traditions. — Bulandshof di 
Pass. — Mud Caldron. — Dettifoss Falls. — Eagle - Tarns. — 
Grettis Tak. — Thurrisdale. — Fording Rivers. — Dog-Tourna- 
ment. — Flora 256 

CHAPTER XXVn. 
Calamities. — Plague. — Black-Death. — Famine. — Pirates. — 
Volcanoes and Earthquakes. — Effect on the Condition and 
Character of the People. — Discouragement and Decline. — A 
Revolution. — A Petitioner 265 

CHAPTER XXYin. 

The Gathering to the Millennial Jubilee. — The Scenes in the 
Bay, and Streets of the Capital. — The King's Arrival. — Ban- 
quet. — People's Festival. — The Visit to Thingvalla. — A 
Grand Occasion. — Speeches. — Poetry. — New Ensign. — The 
Present and Future of Iceland 277 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

The Millennial at the West. — I^orsemen in Prairie-Land. — First 
Icelandic Service. — The Sermon. — Speeches. — Banners. — My 
Native Land 312 

SUPPLEIVIENTAL CHAPTER. 
Changes in Customs and Peculiarities. — Different Forms and 
Pronunciation of Words. — Libraries and Newspapers in Ice- 
land. — Sporting. — Modern National Sacred Melodies . . 329 



ERRATA. 

On p. 48, ninth line from top, read "the enclosure," for "just below 

it." 
On p. 80, sixth line under Chapter XII., "Bjami*' should be 

"Bjarg." 



PEEFAOE. 



This volume was suggested by a contribution to " The 
Cornhill Magazine " upon Iceland, in connection with the 
then approaching Millennial Jubilee. 

In seeking historical light upon a subject respecting 
which the writer confesses he was in the dark, very few 
works could be found outside of our largest libraries ; and 
those, were imported books. 

It was the first thought to write a small volume for 
young people especially, and the preparation of it was 
commenced. But the field of history opened so rich in 
material, that the work grew to its present size and style, 
instead of the juvenile narrative proposed. And if the 
reader finds, in the imperfect narrative, a tithe of the 
fascinating interest afforded in gathering the facts, nothing 
more, in this regard, could be desired. 

Historical accuracy has been kept constantly in view, 
with no other additions to authentic records than supply- 
ing the natural links, necessary to make the proper con- 
nections, and give to skeleton outline lifelike form. 

In historical fragments reaching so far back, and con- 
cerning a country so remote, there will necessarily be 
some unsettled and disputed points. When these have 
been met, the view or statement apparently the most in 
harmony with known facts has been accepted. And it 



6 PREFACE. 

is to be borne in mind, in reading the journals of tourists, 
that in few countries are the landscape-views, and the 
enthusiasm of travellers, more affected by the conditions 
of the weather than in Iceland. Consequently, descrip- 
tions will widely differ ; and a superficial knowledge of 
a people whose external life is sometimes unattractive 
reveals itself in unjust criticisms. 

Iceland is an exhaustless study ; and no " flying visit," 
or brief reading, will give any proper estimate of it and 
its inhabitants. The authorities consulted are, Baronet 
Mackenzie's Journal, a remarkably clear and appre- 
ciative volume ; Prof. Baring-Gould's narrative, very 
readable, and finely illustrated ; the Journals of Com- 
mander Forbes, R. N., and Sir W. J. Hooker, both valua- 
ble narratives of personal observation ; Pliny Miles's 
chatty pages, originally published in England ; Lord Duf- 
ferin's interesting Letters from High Latitudes ; the 
standard work of that eminent jurist and diplomatist, 
Henry Wheaton, LL.D., some time charge d'affaires to 
Copenhagen ; and Northern Antiquities, by Bishop Percy. 

To avoid any misunderstanding, it is proper to add, 
that not until the manuscript was in the hands of the pub- 
lishers, was our attention directed to a work for young 
people, entitled, '' Off for the Geysers ;" whose sketches 
were evidently substantially from the great work of Baring- 
Gould. 

For the account of the Millennial Jubilee, celebrated 
early in August last, America is indebted mainly to Bay- 
ard Taylor's foreign correspondence of " The New- York 
Tribune," and ''The New- York Herald's" letters from 
Dr. Hayes, which were also very valuable, and marked espe- 
cially b}^ accurate statements. "The Nation," with its 
usual reliability, gave, in advance of the Jubilee, a correct 
summary of the new Icelandic Constitution. "Harper's 



PREFACE. 7 

Magazine " contained the first and only illustrated sketches 
by an American, so far as we know, of the island. We 
selected from Longfellow's Poetry of Europe, the fine 
translation of the " Death-Song of Regner." 

The articles of any length besides, in the periodical 
press, to which attention was called, were, an editorial of 
great interest in ' ' The New- York Evening Post ; " an able 
letter from a Fellow of the Royal Society of Antiquaries at 
Copenhagen, to "The New -York Evangelist;" and the 
republication, in part, by ''The Boston Transcript," of 
Mr. Bjnrce's finished contribution to "The Cornhill Maga- 
zine," Impressions of Iceland. 

Very recently, we have seen an interesting statement of 
the evidence of the Norse discovery of America, entitled, 
" America not discovered by Columbus," from the pen of 
Prof. R. B. Anderson of the University of Wisconsin ; 
with whom we have had important correspondence. 

We are also under obligations to Prof. Jon Bjarnasson 
of Luther College, Decorah, Iowa, a native Icelander, for 
fresh facts touching his island home. 

To Willard Small, Esq., of the literary force of Messrs. 
Lee & Shepard, more is due than to the pen or voice of 
any other person. His familiarity with Norse literature 
and history, and genial freedom in the communication of 
his accurate information, has been of the highest value. 

We must acknowledge our dependence, for books of 
reference, upon the Boston Public Library, whose glory 
is second only to that of her free schools ; and also to 
the accomplished and obliging librarian of the Boston 
Athenaeum. 

In this connection we may add, that the records we 
have of Iceland clearly show, that, could the country and 
its population have made it possible, Iceland would have 
more nearly resembled our own in general culture, than 



8 PREFACE. 

any other in Europe or in the world ; at least, out of 
England. There would have been institutions correspond- 
ing to our own public schools, and other educational 
opportunities throughout our growing sisterhood of States. 

The tales from the Sagas, of which the outline of 
Grettir's romantic and tragic career is the principal one, 
were taken, with the exception of a portion of Sir Walter 
Scott's earliest translation, and a few other extracts, from 
the free English readings of Baring-Gould ; condensed, as 
far as practicable, and retaining the graphic power of the 
stories. On account of this necessary contraction, and 
not knowing, in nearly all cases, who was the original 
translator, quotation-marks, as a rule, have been omitted. 

This volume is intended to cover the whole field of Ice- 
landic history. Whatever incompleteness in detail time 
for a more exhaustive and elaborate history might have 
supplied, the author may hope, at least, as the first 
American book, excepting a reprint, on this distant, yet 
grand old Iceland, it may to some extent deepen the 
interest in the people, and add to the popular knowledge 
of a countxy so worthy of a better acquaintance. 



THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



CHAPTER I. 



The Korthem Sea-Eovers in the Land of the Moor. — The First 
Battle. — The Terror of Euroi)e. — Their Arms. — Their Triumphs. 
— Their Passion for Bloody Encounters. — They discover Iceland. 

" O IGNAL-FIRES on the hills of Carmona ! " This 
kD awakening shout from the lips of Bexir, a 
veteran Moorish warrior, rang along the streets of 
ancient Cordova, in the twilight of a September day, 
844. The alarm-bells pealed forth the call to arms. 

A fleet of the sea-rovers of the north had made 
their descent, hke a falling thunderbolt, upon the 
coast of Spain. They swept along the banks of the 
Tagus, pillaging the unresisting people, paralyzed 
with terror. They then sailed up the Guadalquiver, 
and entered beautiful Seville, whose soldiers soon 
retired before the foe, who, to their excited fancy, 
were armed magicians. 

Bexir, at King Alderahman's command, hastened 
preparations to meet the unknown enemy. With 
flashing arms and armor, his columns marched to 
the waiting flotilla. With a favoring wind, they 

9 



10 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

sailed down the broad current, whose banks were 
green with richest verdure, and fragrant with flow- 
ers and fruits. 

The Northmen, from the valleys near arctic frost, 
are ready to receive the Arabian conquerors of the 
warm, rich plains of the south. For the first time 
the fair-haired, fresh-visaged sea-rovers of Scandi- 
navia meet the swarthj^, turbaned Moors in deadly 
combat. Swords and lances cross ; and confronting 
eyes gleam with the passion for carnage, inspired by 
religious frenzy. 

To the Northmen's faith, the air above them is 
filled with the shadowy forms of Valkyrior, the vir- 
gins, who, in the palace of their deity, wait on de- 
parted heroes, and preside over battles. They turn 
the tide of victory, and select for Odin the warriors 
who are to be slain. The devotees of Allah and 
his prophet see, in the sky arching them, the '' dark- 
eyed houris waving their green kerchiefs" to wel- 
come the dauntless heroes to the paradise of sensual 
joys, when they fall upon the field of honor. 

But no decisive victory followed the terrific battle. 
The Norsemen carried away spoils and captives, and, 
unmolested, descended the Guadalquiver to the sea, 
their boundless home. Writes an old chronicler, 
*' Among those captives, we may picture many a 
weeping damsel, who, amidst the frozen regions of 
the north, would long sigh in vain for the sunny 
plains and vine-covered hills of Andalusia." 

This expedition was one of countless similar for- 
rays, which made these piratical corsairs from North- 
ern Europe the terror of a continent. They knew 



THE NORTHERN SEA-ROVERS, 11 

no fear, and gloried in deeds of reckless daring and 
peril. They pillaged Paris, Bordeaux, Orleans, and 
nearly every other city of France and adjacent pro- 
vinces accessible by water ; also the borders of 
England, Scotland, and Ireland. 

They would suddenly appear before a town, land, 
and march through it, bearing away the spoils, then 
weigh anchor, and disappear with their booty. Their 
galleys cut the foam, till the shadow of some grim 
promontorj^^ guarding the entrance to a rocky isle, 
fell upon their fluttering canvas. 

Once within their natural Gibraltar, they could 
laugh, over their foaming goblets, at the threatened 
revenge of plundered nations. They also haunted 
the islands north and west of Denmark, which was 
itself the earliest home of the most sanguinary free- 
booters. 

In the summer of 860, sixteen years after the bat- 
tle of Carmona, Naddod, a famous sea-rover, spread 
his sails for the Faroe Isles. Suddenly a terrible 
gale struck the brave navigator's vessel, and swept it 
along the path of the storm. In vain the helm was 
grasped by a strong, untrembling hand: the bark 
drifted away upon unknown waters. 

With the returning calm he caught sight of lofty 
summits, and sought a landing-place among the foam- 
lashed rocks at their feet. Ascending a height, he 
gazed upon the drear landscaj)e, to find a human 
form or habitation. In vain his anxious eye scanned 
the horizon of snow mantling the mountains, and 
falling down their rugged sides beyond the view. 
He hastened to the beacU, and, re-embarking, called 



12 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

the new country Snae-land, or Snow-land, from the 
most striking feature of the solitude, which, by acci- 
dent, he had discovered. This was Iceland. 

Four years afterwards Garder Svarson, a Swed- 
ish sea-rover, by a similar experience lost his way, 
and sailed to and around the same strange, wild 
land. He found, with delight, green, inviting mar- 
gins by the inlets, and valleys among the rugged 
hills; and named the country after himself, Garder's- 
hohn, or Garder's Isle. There were no spoils, no 
strong men and fair women, to carry away ; and he 
returned to Norway, with only the story of his dis- 
covery. 

But these stern Norsemen had both the savage 
and the tender side of our humanity, which are put 
in vivid contrast in a little love-tragedy composed 
over a thousand years ago. It is translated freely, 
in flowing English rhyme ; and nothing besides, per- 
haps, in the same compass, contains so many graphic 
pictures of old Scandinavian warrior-life, as the 

SOKG OF BEGNER, KING OF DENMARK. 

He heard that Thora, the daughter of a chieftain, 
was held in captivity by an enormous serpent, and 
resolved to deliver her. Clothing himself with 
shaggy trousers, so that the serpent's fangs and ven- 
om could not reach his flesh, he sought and saved 
her. He was called, ever after, Regner Lodbrock, or 
Shaggy- Brogues. Later, when upon one of his expe- 
ditions, he was captured, and thrown into a dungeon 
to die by the bite of serpents. 

We introduce the story by giving the first verse 



SONG OF REGNER, 13 

in the original language, which has been that of Ice- 
land for a thousand years, with a literal translation. 

Hjiiggiim ver med Hjorvi: Hew'd me with the Hanger! 

Hitt var ei fyrir laungii, Hard upon the time 'twas, 

er a Gautlandi Gengum when in Gothlandia Going 

at Graf vitnis * mordi ; to Give death to the serpent, 

THa fengiim ver THorv, THen obtained we THora, 

THadan hetu mik fyrdar, THence have warriors called me, 

tha er Lyngal f um Lagda'k, the Ling-eel since I Laid low, 

Lodbrok : at thvi vigi Lodbrok : at that carnage 

STakk ek a STordar-lykkjii % STuck I the STealthy monster 

STali bjartra mala. With STeel of finest temper. 

THE DEATH-SONG OF EEGNER LODBKOCK. 

We smote with swords ; nor long, before 
In arms I reached the Gothic shore, 
To work the loathly serpent's death. 
I slew the reptile of the heath ; 
My prize was Thora ; from that fight, 
'Mongst warriors am I Lodbrock hight. 
I pierced the monster's scaly side 
With steel, the soldier's wealth and pride. 

We smote with swords ; in early youth 
I fought by Ery's billowy mouth. 
Where high the echoing basnites rung 
To the hard javelin's iron tongue, 
The wolf and golden-footed bird 
Gleaned plenteous harvest of the sword. 
Dark grew the ocean's swollen water ; 
The raven waded deep in slaughter. 

We smote with swords ; ere twenty years 
Were numbered, in the din of spears 

* Used for serpent, 
t Ling-eel, or heath adder. 

X Stord, the earth; lykkja, a clasp, lock, buckle; hence a clasp or 
ring of the earth, and, figuratively, a serpent. 
2 



14 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. ■ 

I'reared my arm^d hand, and spread 
The tide of battle fierce and red. 
Eight earls my weighty arm subdued, 
Eastward by Dwina's icy flood; 
There the gaunt falcon lacked not food. 
The sweat of death distained the wave; 
The army tined * its warriors brave. 

We smote with swords ; fierce Hedin's queen 
'Mid the hot storm of war was seen, 
When Helsing's youth to Odin's hall 
We bade, and garred her prowess fall. 
Our vessels ploughed through Ifa's flood; 
The arrows stung; the stream was blood. 
Brands grated on the mail; and through 
Cleft shields the death-fraught lances flew. 

We smote with swords; none fled, I trow, 
Ere on the masted galley's prow 
Bold Herrand fell; no fairer earl 
Did e'er his bellying sail unfurl 
On winged steeds, that spurn the main, 
Cleaving the seaf owl's lonely reign; 
No lord in stourf more widely feared 
To distant port his vessel steered. 
That glorious chieftain's glowing heart 
In fight aye sought the foremost part. 

We smote with swords ; in fierce affray 
The warriors cast their shields away: 
By rifling steel with fury driven 
Many a fearless breast was riven ; 
And, 'midst the din, from Skarpa's rock 
Echoed the falchion's sounding shock. 
The iron orbs with blood were dyed, 
Ere sunk King Rafen's youthful pride. 
Hot streaming from each valiant head 
Sweat on coats of mail was shed 

* Lost, t War. 



SONG OF REGNER. 15 

We smote with swords ; near Inder's shore 
A sumptuous meal the ravens tore; 
Nor carnage lacked to glut those steeds 
On which the sorcerer's Yala speeds. 
'Twas hard to 'scape unharmed that day: 
When peered the sun's first dawning ray, 
Shafts saw I starting from the string; 
The bent bow made the metal ring. 

We smote with swords ; what fairer fate 
Can e'er the sons of men await, 
Than long amid the battle's blast 
To front the storm, and fall at last ? 
Who basely shuns the gallant strife 
Nathless must lose his dastard life. 
When waves of war conflicting roll, 
'Tis hard to whet the coward soul 
To deeds of worth ; the timid heart 
Will never act a warrior's part. 

We smote with swords ; this deem I right 
Youth to youth in sturdy fight 
Each his meeting falchion wield ; 
Thane to thane should never yield. 
Such was aye the soldier's boast, 
Firm to face the adverse host. 
Boldest, who prize fair maidens' love, 
Must in the din of battle move. 

We smote with swords ; I hold that all 
By destiny or live or fall : 
Each his certain hour awaits ; 
Few can 'scape the ruling Fates. 
When I scattered slaughter wide, 
And launched my vessels to the tide, 
I deemed not, I, that Ella's blade 
Was doomed at last to bow my head; 
But hewed in every Scottish bay 
Fresh banquets for the beasts of prey. 



16 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

We smote with swords ; my parting breath 
Kejoices in the pang of death. 
Where dwells fair B alder's father dread, 
The board is decked, the seats are spread! 
In Fiolner's court, with costly cheer, 
Soon shall I quaff the foaming beer. 
From hollow skulls of warriors slain ! 
Heroes ne'er in death complain; 
To Vider's hall I will not bear 
The dastard words of weak despair. 

We smote with swords ; their falchions bright 

(If well they kenned their father's plight, 

How, venom-filled, a viperous brood 

Have gnawed his flesh, and lapped his blood) 

Thy sons would grasp, Aslauga dear, 

And vengeful wake the battle here. 

A mother to my bairns I gave 

Of sterling worth, to make them brav-e. 

We smote with swords ; cold death is near, 

My rights are passing to my heir. 

Grim stings the adder's forked dai*t; 

The vipers nestle in my heart. 

But soon, I wot, shall Yider's wand 

Fixed in Ella's bosom, stand. 

My youthful sons with rage will swell, 

Listening how their father fell: 

Those gallant boys in peace unbroken 

Will never rest, till I be wroken. 

We smote with swords; where javelins fly, 

Where lances meet, and warriors die, 

Fifty times and one I stood 

Foremost on the field of blood. 

Full young I 'gan distain my sword, 

Nor feared I force of adverse lord; 

Nor deemed I then that any arm 

By might or guile could work me harm. 



SONG OF REGNER. 17 

Me to their feast the gods must call; 
The brave man wails not o'er his fall. 

Cease, my strain! I hear a voice 
From realms where martial souls rejoice: 
I hear the maids of slaughter call, 
Who bid me hence to Odin's hall: 
High seated in their blest abodes 
I soon shall quaif the drink of gods. 
The hours of life have glided by: 
I fall; but smiling shaU I die. 
2* 



CHAPTER 11. 

The ]N"ortlunan's Contempt of Death. —Love of Arms. —National 
Games. — National Worship. — The Gods. — Moral Precepts. — 
The Historical Odin. 

" T" AUGHING shall I die," might be rendered 
J-J this last plaintively cheerful note of Regner's 
dying strain. This proud defiance of " the last ene- 
my " was the boast of the Northmen : love of arms, 
and Odin's worship, were the sources of this scorn- 
ful indifference to suffering and death. 

The martial spirit, and preparation for warlike 
achievements, were cultivated in their national 
games. These were not played on some smooth 
common, nor upon the green carpet of a newly- 
mown field, amid applauding spectators. The very 
boys swung the falchion and battle-axe in naked 
combat ; they wrestled as if in a rage ; were pitted 
against each other, in making frightful leaps over 
deep chasms, from dizzy cliffs ; and purposely endured 
hunger and cold, to harden their bodies. 

Mothers, many of whom were born in camps, and 
all of them in the sight and sound of arms, taught 
their sons there was no glory like that of the suc- 
cessful warrior. What an impression upon him and 
his companions must have been made by the honors 
often conferred upon a boy of fifteen years, who had 
Bhovvn manly prowess ! 

18 



LOVE OF ARMS, 19 

Before his kindred and assembled heroes, a chief 
presented him a burnished sword, a lance, and a 
buckler. It was his v/elcome to the ranks of the 
braves. 

In the quiet valleys, and on the shaded slopes of 
Scandinavian lands, rose the temples of their prin- 
cipal deity, Odin. Not only did animals slain for sac- 
rifice lie bleeding, but human victims stood by the 
altars where the sacred fire was burning. The conse- 
crated brazen vessels were lying before them, the lar- 
gest of which received their blood as it followed the 
burnished knife. The priest said to each in turn, '' I 
devote thee to Odin ; " or, '' I send thee to Odin." 
The flowing life-current was then sprinkled upon 
the altar, the temple, the grove, and the people. 

The victims were selected from captives taken in 
battle, or slaves in time of peace, excepting in some 
great emergency : then to escape from dire calam- 
ity, or avert threatened disaster, offerings were taken 
from families of the nobility, and even the king him- 
self was sometimes immolated. At the grand nine- 
days' festival in the magnificent temple at Upsal, 
nine men, each day, yielded up their lives. 

The Northmen transferred their love of martial 
glory to their gods. Odin became the '' father of 
slaughter," mingling in the strife, and encoura- 
ging the warriors, while his Valkyrior selected for 
him those chosen to be slain. 

The contending hosts alike invoked his aid, con- 
secrating in advance a certain number to him. which 
he was to designate, and welcome to Valhalla. 

Yet they called him their creator and father. No 



20 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

greater contrast is possible, than between a faith so 
sanguinary and merciless, and that of the founders 
of New England, with their open Bible, and " free- 
dom to worship God." 

Frigga was the wife of Odin. 

Thor, who was the original deity of the north, 
became next to Odin in power, and sometimes was 
called his son. 

The badge of his greatness was a massive mallet, 
which, after it was hurled at a foe, flew back again 
to his hand armed with gauntlets. He wore also, a 
magic girdle, which renewed his strength whenever 
exhausted. 

Listening to the strains from the " Song of the 
Prophetess," in the poetic Edda, we shall learn from 
the Northmen the wild fictions of their mythology ; 
and yet only a people of native genius, and high 
type of manhood, could have devised it. 

'' In the day-spring of the ages, there was neither 
earth below, nor heaven above, to be distinguished. 
The whole was only one vast abyss, without herb 
and without seeds. The sun had then no palace, the 
stars knew not their dwelling-places, the moon was 
ignorant of her power. After this there was a lumi- 
nous, burning, flaming world towards the south ; and 
another, nebulous and dark, toward the north. From 
the latter world flowed out incessantly into the abyss 
that lay between the two, torrents of venom ; which, 
in proportion as they removed far away from their 
source, congealed in their falling into the abyss, 
and so filled it with scum and ice. Thus was the 
abyss, by httle and little, quite filled ; but there 



THE GODS. ' . 21 

remained within it a light and immovable air, and 
thence exhaled icy vapors. Then a warm breath 
coming from the south melted those vapors, and 
formed of them living drops, whence was born the 
giant Ymer. Whilst he slept, an extraordinary sweat 
under his armpits produced a male and a female, 
whence is sprung the race of the giants, — a race evil 
and corrupt as well as Ymir, their author. Another 
race was brought forth, which formed alliances with 
that of the giant Ymir : this was called the familj" 
of Bor, so named from the second of that family, 
who was the father of Odin. The sons of Bor slew 
the giant Ymir ; and the blood ran from his wounds 
in such abundance, that it caused a general inunda- 
tion, wherein perished all the giants, excepting one, 
who, saving himself in a bark, escaped with all his 
family. Then a new world was formed. The sons 
of Bor, or the gods, dragged the body of the giant in 
the abyss, and of it made the earth. The sea and 
rivers were composed of his blood ; the earth, of his 
flesh ; the great mountains, of his bones ; the rocks, 
of his teeth and of splinters of his bones broken. 

" They made of his skull the vault of heaven, which 
is supported by four d^varfs, named North, South, 
East, and West. They fixed there tapers to enlight- 
en, and assigned to other fires certain spaces which 
they were to run through, some of them in heaven, 
others under the heaven. The days were distin- 
guished, and the years were numbered. 

'' They made the earth round, and surrounded it 
with the deep ocean, upon the outward banks of 
which they placed the giants. One day, as the sons 



22 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

of Bor, or the gods, were taking a walk, they found 
two pieces of wood floating upon the water ; these 
they took, and out of them made a man and woman. 
The eldest of the gods gave them life and souls; the 
second, motion and knowledge ; the third, the gift of 
speech, hearing, and sight, to which he added beauty 
and raiment. From this man and this woman, 
named Ask and Embla, is descended the race of men 
who are permitted to inhabit the earth. 

" Those only whose blood had been shed in battle 
might aspire to the pleasures which Odin prepared 
for them in Valhalla. The pleasures which they ex- 
pected after death show us plainly enough what they 
relished during -life. The heroes, says the Edda, 
who are received into the palace of Odin, have 
every day the pleasure of arming themselves, of pass- 
ing in review, of ranging themselves in order of bat- 
tle, and of cutting one another in pieces ; but, as soon 
as the hour of repast approaches, they return on 
horseback, all safe and sound, to the hall of Odin, 
and fall to eating and drinking. Though the num- 
ber of them cannot be counted, the flesh of the boar 
Sachrimnir is sufficient for them all : every day it is 
served up at table, and every day it is renewed again 
entire. Their beverage is ale and mead : one single 
goat, whose milk is excellent mead, furnishes enough 
of that hquor to intoxicate all the heroes. Odin 
alone drinks wine for his entire liquor. A crowd of 
virgins wait upon the heroes at table, and fill their 
cups as fast as they empty them." 

Such was the faith which rendered all the inhab- 
itants of the north of Europe intrepid, and which 



THE GODS. 23 

made them not only defy, but even seek with ardor, 
the most cruel deaths. Accordingly King Regner 
Lodbrok, when he was dying, far from uttering 
groans, or forming complaints, could sing with 
joy: ''We are cut to pieces with swords; but 
this fills me with joy, when I think of the feast 
that is preparing for me in Odin's palace. Quickly, 
quickly seated in the splendid habitation of the 
gods, we shall drink beer out of the skulls of our 
enemies. A brave man fears not to die. I shall 
utter no timorous words as I enter the hall of 
Odin." This fanatical hope derived additional force 
from the ignominy affixed to every kind of death 
but such as was of a violent nature, and from the fear 
of being sent after such an exit into Niflheim. This 
was a place consisting of nine worlds, reserved for 
those that died of disease or old age. Hela, or 
Death, there exercised her despotic power ; her pal- 
ace was Anguish ; her table Famine ; her waiters 
were Slowness and Delay ; the threshold of her door 
was Precipice ; her bed Care ; she was livid and 
ghastly pale, and her very looks inspired horror. 

" Yggdrasill was the mighty ash, under which the 
gods assembled in council. Its branches cover the 
surface of the earth, its top reaches to the highest 
heaven ; it is supported by tliree vast roots, one of 
which extends to the ninth world. An eagle, whose 
piercing eye discovers all things, perches upon its 
branches. Between his eyes is a hawk, who hears 
the faintest whisper. A squirrel is continually run- 
ning up and down it, to bring news ; wliile a parcel 
of serpents, fastened to the trunk, endeavor to destroy 



24 



TEE ISLAND OF FIRE, 



him. From under one of the roots, runs a fountain, 
wherein wisdom lies concealed. From a neighbor- 
ing spring (of past things) three virgins are contin- 
ually drawing a precious water for the tree, which 
preserves the beauty of the ash, and, after having 
refreshed its leaves, falls back again to the earth, 
where it forms the dew from which the bees make 
their honey. These three virgins always keep under 
the ash ; and it is they who dispense the days and ages 
of men. Every man hath a Destiny appropriated to 
himself, who determines the duration and events of 
his life. But the three Destinies of more especial 
note are Urd, the past, Verdandi, the present, and 
Skuld, the future. Loki was the Satan of these 
idolaters, the calumniator of the gods, the grand 
contriver of deceit and frauds, the reproach of gods 
and men. He is beautiful in figure, but his mind is 
evil, and his inclination inconstant. Nobody renders 
him divine honors. He surpasses all mortals in the 
arts of perfidy and craft." 

But it is a curious fact, that from their gods came 
several names of the days of the week. Odin's-day 
is Wednesday, Thor's-day is Thursday, and the name 
of Frigga is immortalized in Friday. 

Some excellent precepts had those idolaters, while 
others were of doubtful morality. The following are 
a few of the former : — 

" Consider and examine well all your doors before 
you venture to stir abroad ; for he is exposed to con- 
tinual danger whose enemies lie in ambush con- 
cealed in his court." 

'' To the guest who enters your dwelling with 



MORAL PRECEPTS, 25 

frozen knees, give the warmth of your fire : he who 
hath travelled over the mountains hath need of food 
and well-dried garments." 

" Offer water to him who sits down at your table, 
for he hath occasion to cleanse his hands ; and enter- 
tain him honorably and kindly, if you would win 
from him friendly words, and a grateful return." 

" He who travelleth hath need of wisdom. One 
may do at home whatsoever one will ; but he who is 
ignorant of good manners will only draw contempt 
upon himself, when he comes to sit down with men 
well instructed." 

'' He who goes to a feast where he is not ex- 
pected either speaks with a lowly voice, or is silent. 
He listens with his ears, and is attentive with his 
eyes ; by this he acquires knowledge and wisdom." 

*' A man can carry with him no better provision 
for his journey than the strength of understanding. 
In a foreign country, this will be of more use to him 
than treasures, and will introduce him to the table 
of strangers." 

'' Many are thought to be knit in the ties of sin- 
cere kindness ; but, when it comes to the proof, how 
much are they deceived ! Slander is the common 
vice of the age. Even the host backbites his guest." 

" One's own home is the best home, though never 
so small. Every thing one eats at home is sweet. 
He who lives at another man's table is often obliged 
to wrong his palate." 

'' Riches pass away like the twinkling of an ejQ : 
of all friends they are the most inconstant. Flocks 
perish, relations die, friends are not immortal, you 



26 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

will die yourself ; but I know one thing alone that 
is out of the reach of fate, and that is the judgment 
which is passed upon the dead." 

" The heart alone knows what passes within the 
heart; and that which betrays the soul is the soul 
itself. There is no malady or sickness more severe 
than not to be content with one's lot." 

It is evident from these fragments, that, everywhere 
and always, detraction is the " common vice of the 
age," and the sentiment, if not the song, of '' Sweet 
Home," is equally universal. 

The only light which history sheds on the origin 
of this mythology, which for ages was cherished by 
the Northmen, is reflected from the shadows of an- 
tiquity. 

One day in that fabled past, the flames of Odin's 
cremation rose in Sigtuna. 

Thousands, according to the only records of Nor- 
way, the Yuglinj, were gathered to witness the burn- 
ing of the body of their idolized chieftain, henceforth 
to receive divine honors. 

He had led them from the far plains and steppes 
of Asia, across Europe. Conquering as they went, 
they spread themselves over the northern lands, 
groping their way even to the islands of that drear 
ocean, rolling away to the mysterious pole. Odin 
had appropriated, according to custom, the name of 
his own deity ; and was so gifted, and victorious in 
battle, that in turn, upon his death, he became the 
object of supreme worship. 

He had introduced cremation, an origin worthy 
of its unnatural, and therefore repulsive disposition 



ODIN. 27 

of the dead ; and it was fitting that he should be 
honored by a national burning and festival. 

When he found death by disease approaching, the 
Northmen's horror, he inflicted nine stabs in a circle 
upon himself, declaring, with ebbing life, that he 
was going to Asgard, to enjoy an eternal banquet 
with the gods. 

That he founded a new religion, is history ; ex- 
cepting this, we cannot trace his career in the uncer- 
tain light of the Norwegian story of the nation's 
origin, and its deity. But we have the belief, cere- 
monies, and sacrifices ; which, more than any other 
national annals, reflect the true character of the 
people. 



CHAPTER III. 

"Wlio lived in Korthern Europe before the Goths ? — Lost History. — 
A Hundred Languages. — Five a Majority. — The Einns, and 
Lapps. 

"TTT"HOSE flocks and herds grazed upon the 

VV boundless fields of Northern Europe before 
those of the invading Croths ? 

However unsatisfactory the answer, the very at- 
tempt to find one sheds fascinating light, by contrast, 
upon their lordly neighbors, who created kingdoms, 
and peopled islands, until the Russian Empire itself 
rose beneath their forming energy. 

We have looked out upon the ocean at night, and 
caught, in the moonlit distance, glimpses of wander- 
ing ships, beyond which the gleams of the weird 
beams went out in total darkness. 

The ancient races of Europe, among which were 
the old Greeks and Romans, are those barks on the 
edge of deepest night, in the past. 

That they all came from the plains and steppes of 
Asia, confirming the simple story of Moses in the in- 
spired annals, is evident. There, in that mysterious 
Eastern Continent, the mighty generations succeeded 
each other just Hke the waves of that deep the eye 
cannot scan, leaving no trace behind. 

" When we strive to pierce the mysterious gloom 

28 



THE HINDOOS, 29 

that shrouds an infant world, it is the heaven-aspir- 
ing peaks of Central Asia (Himalay, or Heavenly 
Mountains), that we first discern illumined by those 
primeval myths, which, like dazzling coruscations of 
a polar winter, play fantastically amidst the night of 
ages, ere history's dawn has yet streaked time's hoary 
horizon with the earliest ray. 

"And when, at length, the opening morn dispels 
these visionary splendors, we behold the luxuriant 
plains of the Ganges, occupied by an intelligent peo- 
ple with its sages and philosophers." 

A marvellous race indeed are these Hindoos, 
among whom English and American missionaries 
have carried the light of the onlj^ Book of God's rev- 
elation to mankind. 

Prof. Seelye of Amherst College, one of our no- 
blest Christian scholars and educators, recently gath- 
ered around him their most gifted Brahmins, while 
he convincingly unfolded to them the religion of the 
Cross. 

In unanswerable statements to them, and upon his 
return to this country, in the press, he made very 
clear the measureless contrast between the most civ- 
ilized heathenism, in the very texture of society, to 
say nothing of the spiritual darkness shrouding all 
the relations of mankind to God, and the Christian- 
ity of the Bible, even in its so partially appreciated 
and resisted power. 

Think of the variety of tongues since the Babel- 
builders left their unfinished tower, when we know 
that now nearly one hundred different dialects have 
their records in literature. There is another wonder- 
3* 



30 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

ful fact ; that five of these languages represent the 
nations who have ruled the destinies of the world : 
the Hindostanic, in Southern Asia ; the Iranic, or an- 
cient Persian ; the Hellenic, or Grecian ; the Romanic, 
or Latin ; and the Teutonic, which has been that of 
Northern Europe, including the Scandinavian, Ger- 
man, and English. The Scandinavian was spoken 
by the four great branches of the race, who peopled 
the countries abutting on the Baltic, — the North- 
men, Swedes, Danes, and the Gardar, or settlers in 
Northern Russia. 

We have, therefore, to learn a hundred tongues to 
read every thing written ; but five will answer the 
purpose, for the study of the original literature of 
earth's mighty realms of human power and glory. 

Of the tribes, and their languages, at the north, 
who for ages lived unmolested by foreign foes, but 
had almost no influence upon the great world's life 
and progress, we have only the vaguest hints. 
Tshuds is a name by which they have been histori- 
cally known ; and the Finns and Lapps are their 
remnants. The habits and general intelligence of 
these two tribes are very similar. They are more 
like the negroes in their simple, trustful natures, and 
their superstitions, than the Northmen, on whose 
boundaries they have lived for untold centuries. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Two Thousand Years Ago. — The Gift of Fire. — The Lava-Island. — 
The Green Margins and Valleys. — Traveller's Impressions. 

TWO thousand years ago ! No island then may- 
have broken the sweep of the ocean across the 
Arctic Circle, west of Norway. 

We have no data from which to learn when Ice- 
land came from the depths beneath the sea ; but 
how, is written all over it, in characters as legible as 
inscriptions on monumental marble. 

The signal, in the ocean-sohtudes, of a war of the 
elements, was an earthquake-shock, convulsing the 
sea for hundreds of miles around the centre of 
the tremendous explosion at hand. 

With the increasing agitation of the waters, their 
surface became mottled with foam, and discolored 
by the matter cast up from the foundations on which, 
for unnumbered ages, they had rested. The rising 
billows met like armed hosts, and their roar was 
louder than fiercest human battle. Dense columns 
of steam rolled upward ; glowing tides of pumice 
followed, lighting up with their glare the silent 
northern sky. 

Between these, great showers of cinders were 
falling through the eddying air, all " heralding the 
approach of the crater's mouth." Then rose the rim 

SI 



CHAPTER V. 

Emigration to Iceland. — Farewell Festivals. —Floki Eafna, — A 
Thousand Years Ago. 

A BOLD and famous viking, Floki Rafna (that 
is, Floki of the ravens), who, Icelandic tradition 
says, was a descendant of " Goa, a sister of Nor, the 
fabled founder of the kingdom of Norway," was 
seized, in 865, with a desire to emigrate to Iceland. 
He gathered his family and followers to his temple, 
and celebrated the sacrificial banquet. This temple, 
owned by the chieftain whose retainers were num- 
bered by hundreds, was nothing more than a large 
hall for feasting, with a small recess at the end for 
worship. In cold weather a fire was built in the 
centre of the hall upon a lava floor, and its smoke 
escaped through openings in the roof, which served 
also as the only windows. The chieftain took his 
seat upon a rude throne opposite the fire on the 
southerly side, between two columns bearing inscrip- 
tions in Runic letters, the written alphabet, such as 
it was, invented by the Northmen. Opposite him, 
on a similar, yet inferior seat of honor, according to 
custom, was his principal guest. To the right and 
left, on benches against the wall, sat his retainers 
and servants. The offerings of cattle and sheep 
were slain, and their flesh thrown into a caldron 

34 



EMIGRATION TO ICELAND. 35 

over the blazing fire. When cooked, it was passed 
around, beginning with the chief, and ending with 
his humblest menial. After they were satiated with 
the meat, they imbibed freely a kind of ale. With 
the rising hilarity, these revellers threw at each other, 
across the hall, the bones they had picked. Just 
imagine the yet warm, greasy missiles flying back 
and forth, in that "dim, religious light" of Odin's 
hall! 

This sacrificing and feasting lasted several days. 
At the close Floki took into the recess where stood 
the altar, three ravens, and consecrated them, in the 
name of his god, to his own guidance on the voyage ; 
then removed them, with the sacred columns of his 
temple-throne, to the ship ready to receive him. 

Without a tear, but a fond, lingering gaze, he 
watched the dark hill-tops of his native Norway, as 
thej^ sank below the horizon, and he became a wan- 
derer, in search of that strange land, somewhere in 
the untravelled northern waters. It seems that he 
first touched the Faroe Isles. Trusting to the in- 
stinct of the ravens, when he thought he might be 
nearer Iceland than their shores, he released one, 
to mark its flight, as the compass by which to 
steer his ship. The bird showed no hesitation re- 
specting his course, but flew straight for the land 
which he had left. A few days later, another black 
messenger was sent forth upon the ocean. The bird 
seemed bewildered, and, after an uncertain skyward 
flight, gave up the attempt to find a resting-place, 
and returned to the ship. Pursuing his course un- 
daunted, Floki uncaged the third raven, who flew 



SQ THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

in the direction he was sailing, unmistakably indi- 
cating that the island was near. 

Soon after, he dropped anchor within the arms of 
a fiord, or inlet. The succeeding winter was intensely 
severe, filling the hsijs with ice, and--burying the land 
by frequent snow-storms for months. His cattle died, 
and his brave heart sighed for fatherland. Setting 
sail, he named his abandoned place, of so brief abode. 
Island, which in his own tongue was Iceland ; be- 
cause the blockade of icebergs, from the shores of 
Greenland, sometimes so walled it in, that the ocean 
could not be seen over their crystal heights. 

But the Norwegian heroes were not easily dis- 
heartened, nor were they afraid of perils and suffer- 
ing. In 870 Ingolf, threatened with vengeance by the 
kindred of an adversary he had slain, spent a winter 
in Iceland, and Uked it so well, that he determined, 
upon his return, to raise a colony, and go back. He 
was urged to this, like our Pilgrim Fathers, by op- 
pression. Harald * Haarfagr had taken the reins of 
power over the chieftains of Norway, and increased 
their taxes. These old liberty-loving sea-rovers 
rebelled against this tyranny; and families banded 
together to seek a home in Iceland. Their illustrious 
leader, Ingolf, set sail in his dragon-headed galley, 
the " Mayflower " of 874, for Iceland. 

Approaching the land, he threw into the sea the 
sacred columns, to learn the will of the gods by the 
place to which the}'- drifted. But they floated out of 
sight ; and he sought a harbor in the southern coast, 
at a point which still bears the name of Ingolfshodi. 

* The Fair-haired. 



ASSASSINATION, 37 

Afterwards, when the columns were found by his 
slaves, he removed to them at once, and founded 
the present capital, Reykjavik. His brother-in-law 
Hjorleif landed, and settled at a place on the 
south coast, which is to this day called Hjorleifs- 
hofdi. Being decoyed into a wood by his Irish 
slaves in the following spring, in search of a bear, he 
was treacherously murdered by them, together with 
the rest of the company. The slaves fled with his 
goods to the Westman Isles, named after them, but 
were pursued and killed by Ingolf. In his lament 
over the dead body of his friend, who had ceased to 
honor pagan altars, as it is recorded in the Sagas, he 
is made to say ; '' What an ignoble thing for so 
excellent a man to fall by the hand of vile slaves! 
But such must ever be the fate of those who will not 
sacrifice to the gods." 

This was a thousand years ago. Our fatherland, 
the British empire of to-day, w^as then only a re- 
spectable kingdom, formed out of seven petty sover- 
eignties. 

America was one vast, " howling wilderness." 
The mariner's compass, and the art of printing, were 
unknown for centuries later ; and gunpowder, with- 
out which modern armies would not know how to 
fight, had never flashed on the brain of the old 
Chinaman or Arab who gave his bright discovery 
to the world. 

The most ancient Icelandic history, the Landa- 
nama Book, tells us of crucifixes, bells, and other 
relics of a people from Ireland, who had embraced 
Christianity, called Papas, from an island on which 



38 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

they lived. There may have been voyages thither 
from that greener isle ; and it would be a wonderful 
thing indeed, if bells calling to the worship of God, 
rang along the "stern and rock-bound coast" of 
Iceland, before the pagan Northmen reared their al- 
tars. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Pilgrim Nobles from N'orway. — Harald's Price, Four Ounces of Sil- 
ver. — No Indians to fight. — They have Conflicts. — A Eepublic 
made to Order. — Its Constitution. — The Althing. — The First 
Chief Magistrate. 

BRAVE Norway Pilgrims ! Pagans though they 
were, they had in their veins, like the founders 
of New England, the best blood of Europe. Dur- 
ing the long summer days, had one been on those 
lava heights above the sea, he might have seen 
their old galleys creeping along the perilous coast, 
freighted with kindred and attendants, seeking the 
new land of the free. 

And how does Harald feel about the increasing 
emigration of his most valuable subjects, following 
the fearless pioneer, Ingolf, from the hated shadow 
of his throne ? At first, as all tyrants regard rebel- 
lious spirits, in the pride of power, he smiled at 
their rash adventure. But, when their number grew 
to thousands, it was another matter : their money 
and influence he could not well afford to lose. 
One day, through all the region of disaffection, 
went the royal decree, that every subject who 
left the kingdom for Iceland should pay the crown 
four ounces of silver ; a heavy fine for those times, 
and not easy to raise. But freedom was more 

89 



40 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

precious than silver to tlie untamed Northmen. 
Unchecked, the living tide floAved on. All along 
the accessible borders of the volcanic land, they 
moored their vessels; the stern leaders of house- 
hold bands, leaping into the foam, were followed by 
the family, and then the retainers, " armed to the 
teeth." The procession turned their faces towards the 
distant and frowning heights. By the wide fiords, 
they threaded roughest paths, which no feet had 
trodden before, seeking green pasturage, and fresh 
streams, beside which to build their lava cabins. 
These Icelandic exiles had their own curious ways 
of getting and holding possession of the unfenced 
slopes and valleys. One of these was, to light fires 
at the mouths of all the streams running into a fiord, 
and claiming the whole district through which they 
ran. Shooting a fiery arrow across a stream, was ex- 
tending the right to the land from the spot where it 
fell upon the other side, to the terminus of the river. 
Then, again, estates were separated by the natural 
boundaries of mountains, and ridges of hills. These 
colonists found no Indians to oppose their progress, 
as did those of New England eight hundred years 
later. Had the fierce Northmen been saluted with 
the war-whoop, what fighting there would have 
been ! For those chieftains and their warriors, as 
we have seen, have no rivals in the world's history : 
a passion for arms was the master one. They had 
no higher ambition than to die with their weapons 
of war in their hands, dripping with the blood of the 
slain. 

When the district of a chieftain was determined, 



QUARRELLING, 41 

he allotted to each of the freemen who followed him 
a portion of it, built a temple, or Aq/", and became, as 
he had been in Norway, a godi^ and was so called after 
the deity he worshipped. The chieftain was both 
priest and leader. Men were compelled to pay a 
tax on the hof^ and follow their lord on his journeys 
and expeditions. It must have been a splendid and 
imposing spectacle, when, with their burnished arms, 
these physically splendid warriors marched behind 
their chief, mounted on his richly caparisoned 
steed. All went on peacefully for a few years, 
till new-comers found the best lands occupied, and 
thought, very naturally, they ought to have a share 
of the extensive farms appropriated without any- 
body's permission. If the lord of the manor refused 
to divide, the question must be decided by '' wager 
of battle," or trial of the case by arms. If the ag- 
gressor won the day, he quietly took the coveted 
portion ; if he lost, and survived the combat, he re- 
tired from the field, and sought elsewhere a home. 

Quarrels multiplied, and all classes were getting 
restless. The sensible, shrewd old Northmen saw 
something must be done to unite and protect the 
whole people. But where shall they find the model 
for a constitution, and a mind to frame it for 
the conflicting elements? A council was called, 
and all eyes turned to Ulfljot, a man distinguished for 
learning and justice. But, like the truly great of 
every age, he shrank from a responsibility demand- 
ing the rarest powers. One summer day this 
thoughtful Icelander stole away from his quiet 
home, to the harbor, and sailed for Norway. He 

4* 



42 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

sought Thoiiief the Wise. Under him, for three 
years, he studied national laws and customs, and 
talked freely with the most enlightened minds. 

This Jefferson of the tenth century returned to 
Iceland, and the people assembled to hear his plan 
for a distinct nationality. How well he knew the 
spirit of his countrymen ! The clashing of sword 
and shield, ringing out upon the clear air, proclaimed 
the adoption of a republican form of government ; a 
miracle in the world of politics, and on a continent 
of kings and lawless tribes. And thus a republic was 
made to order, on the farthest land known in the 
cold north, with the smiling realms of Europe at their 
feet, carved up by monarchs, great and small. 

There remained, unavoidably, tlie aristocracy of 
the old chiefs and nobles, with other defects ; which, 
considering its antiquity, were no more than spots 
upon the face of the rising sun. 

Tlie glory of that republic is reflected to-day from 
English law and liberty, and re-appears in the freer 
institutions of America. 

In the new order of things, the island had four 
divisions, corresponding to the points of compass, 
and named after them. Each of these was subdi- 
vided into three districts ; and these, again, into tliree 
more, called godords. There were governors over 
the provinces ; under them were prefects, or magis- 
trates ; and five officers were appointed to maintain 
peace and good order in each of the smaller dis- 
tricts, and especially to care for the poor. 

The needy must be cared for by kindred, if able . 
to do it ; and, if not, by the parish. 



A REPUBLIC FORMED. 43 

In all these divisions were held assemblies for 
public purposes. In the third, or the smaller dis- 
tricts, they were composed of all the citizens who 
held real estate to a given amount, and were of 
an '' unblemished moral character." 

The district assembly was called a Thing^ that is, 
to say^ presided over by the goda, selected for their 
wisdom, and love of justice. Near the Thingstead^ or 
place of meeting, was Odin's temple. The judges 
sat within the dom-ringh^ or doom-ring, formed of 
upright stones or hazel-twigs. In its centre was the 
blotsteinn^ or stone of execution; a huge block of 
basalt, with a ridge across it, upon which were 
broken the backs of certain criminals. 

The Althing^ or general assembly, was the great 
annual court of the nation, held at Thingvalla. 

Ulfljot was chosen unanimously the first chief 
magistrate, who held his office three years. The 
"pen, mightier than the sword," won the honor un- 
sought by himself or political partisans. 

" After the year 999, the Althing was opened on 
the Thursday between the 28th of June and 4th July, 
and remained in session fourteen days. Since agri- 
culture could not be carried on in Iceland, and the 
raising of cattle required little labor, the men early 
acquired the habit of travelling to Thingvalla every 
year; so that finally many thousands of persons 
assembled in the valley, exchanged information, 
traded, feasted, and thus established a kind of 
national fair. The civil and criminal cases were 
practically tried before the whole people ; and Avhat- 
ever law was decreed went immediately into action. 



44 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



" After Iceland fell to Norway, and then to Den- 
mark, the form of holding the Althing was still 
observed, although it was scarcely more than an 
empty form. The meetings were held in the open 
air, as in the old and glorious ages, until the year 
1690 ; when a wall of blocks of lava was erected, 
and a canvas roof spanned over it to protect the 
delegates from inclement weather. Here Danish 
law was proclaimed to the people, up to the year 
1800, when the seat of justice was removed to Reykj- 
avik. Even the old wall has been taken away ; and 
the Hill of the Law is now as bare and grand as 
when it witnessed the deliberations of a free people." 

There is one short word, of pure Icelandic origin, 
which is a Drummond light in its significance, pour- 
ing a flood of radiance from that lone island, and the 
far past, wherever human rights are, or shall be pro- 
tected. It is KVIBR ; a verdict^ or trial hy jury. The 
neighbors of the man arraigned, whose number might 
be four, six, or ten, accompanied him to the court, and 
there took the oath of impartial judgment. The tolf- 
tar-kvidir was the verdict of twelve^ or special jury ; 
called also goda-kvidir, or priest-verdict^ because the 
godi of the district summoned the jury, and was ex-- 
officio its foreman. This guardian of the rights of 
freemen was transplanted to English ground ; for the 
settlers of England were kith and kin to those of Ice- 
land. This old Scandinavian institution gradually 
died out in the mother countries, and came to an end 
in Iceland A.D. 1271-1281, with the fall of the com- 
monwealth ; whereas it was naturalized in England, 
which became the classical land of trial by jury. 



4 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Magnificent Capitol. — Built when the Island was made. — The 
Kational Court. — Tents and Booths. — The Incendiary. — His 
Escape. 

FALLING into the procession from Reykjavik, and 
other towns, the most of which are single farms, 
we are on the way to Thingvalla, over a narrow 
pathway, and through varied, but always wild scen- 
ery. Here and there, for a few miles, a farm-house 
is nestled in a green valley. 

Now we cross a broad lava-bed, which gleams in 
the sun's rays hke a vast iron plain, torn and seamed 
by the convulsions which made it. Beyond it an 
ocean of peaks spreads away to the horizon. 
" There is a magical effect to the atmosphere, seen in 
no other country. The air is so pure, the strong con- 
trasts of black, brown, and red lavas, and the green 
fields, and snowy mountains, make splendid pictures, 
even at twenty miles' distance." Farther on, we en- 
ter the valley of the Laxd, or Salmon River, rushing 
madly to the sea. 

Fording the stream, our narrow way leads through 
utter desolation to a broad plateau of barren rock. 
Suddenly we halt on the brow of a precipice ; and 
what a panorama bursts on the view ! It is the vale 
of Thingvalla. No pen or pencil can sketch its 
wonders. 

45 



46 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

We are on tlie edge of tlie Almanne-Gja, or All- 
Men's Chasm. Half a dozen miles across the valley, 
is the Hrafna Gja, or Raven's Chasm, the correspond- 
ing wall ; their very angles revealing the rent where 
they were driven asunder. Between these pinnacled 
barriers, lie fifty square miles of once molten lava, 
which sank a hundred feet below the land-level 
along these gigantic ramparts. 

The first glance from the plain to the ragged walls, 
converging in the distance, is bewildering by the 
magnitude and grandeur of the scene. Great shad- 
ows fall at their base, in the changing light that 
brightens the gloomy battlements. 

Towards the south, the plain slopes gradually to 
the crystal " Thingvalla Vatn," or Thingvalla Wa- 
ter, whose clear expanse is ten miles long, half as 
many wide, and in some places over a thousand feet 
deep. 

Through a gorge in the Hrafnu Gja, a river comes 
tumbling and foaming, as if crazy with delight over 
its escape, and glides away into its placid bosom. 
Beneath its translucent waters, as everywhere in Ice- 
land, are seams and chasms, — the savage scars of thatj 
great battle of elements, in which the victorious 
land was enthroned in grim majesty amid the sea. 
Two pretty islands, Sandey and Vesey, dot its bosom. 
The only human life there is in the little parsonage. 

The train moves forward to nearly the middle of 
the beautiful valley. On the checkered floor open 
chasms similar, but broader and deeper, to those 
which surround and guard ancient castles. Straight 
down, they go sometimes far below a sounding-line. 



THE CAPITOL, 47 

Three of these form a triangle, enclosing a stony- 
floor, with only a narrow causeway connecting it with 
the surrounding valley. This is the Capitol of the 
republic, in which the Althing annually sits. 

At the upper extremity, is an elevation of rock, 
crowning the Loeberg, or Mount of Laws. Upon this 
is the seat of the chief magistrate. 

A simple illustration will convey a sufficiently 
clear idea of the spot. With three gashed and ragged 
blocks, make an acute triangle. Into this, drop 
another, wedge-shaped, the point touching the apex 
of the triangular wall around it. That central block 
is the place where sits the national court ; the spaces 
between it and the enclosing blocks are the chasms ; 
and the point of contact, the narrow and natural 
bridge leading to it. Standing at the base, and 
looking up the valley beyond it, on the right nearly 
a quarter of a mile distant, the river dashes over the 
Almanne-Gja ; and beyond it are the secluded church 
and lava-turf parsonage. Farther away, spreads 
the lake, with the far-off horizon of magnificent 
mountains. 

One of the contorted columns in the north-west 
side is '' Hanging Rock," to which certain culprits 
(tradition says) were tied by a rope around the 
neck,. and then hurled into the frightful abyss. 

Below the second fall of the river, '' where it tears 
through the south-east wall," is a pool of blue foaming 
water, used for the execution of women convicted of 
child-murder or witchcraft. 

Of the island in the Axard, where duels were 
fought, a patch of mud only remains. To the south, 



48 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

rise picturesque mountains, on whose slopes four hot 
springs send up their incense of vapor, adding to the 
strange solemnity of the scene. The majestic walls 
are not equally high and perpendicular, the falling 
fragments of the Almanne-Gja having filled the 
angles on the plain below. 

It is August of the year 950. The judges and dooms- 
men take the three rows of stone benches on each side, 
just below it. A single policeman strides over the 
area to keep order. Outside of this open court, be- 
yond the chasms, are pitched the tents, and gather 
groups of the people who throng the broad galleries of 
this Capitol of their national Congress. Gay attire 
and polished weapons flash in the sunlight of the 
long summer day. 

An incendiary is summoned to trial. The evi- 
dence is clear; and the Logsiigumadr, or promulgator 
of the law, from the Logberg, asks the doomsmen, 
"Guilty, or not guilty?" The clashing of sword 
and shield seals his fate. With a sudden bound, 
Flosi breaks away from the fatal ring, and flies to 
the narrowest part of the encircling gorge. The 
abyss yawns twenty feet between him and the 
ascending slope on the opposite side. But dear life 
is at stake ; and, like a hunted deer, he scales the 
chasm, and disappears among the dismal solitudes, 
beyond the reach of his pursuers. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Embarking for Keykjavik. — Copenhagen. — Eocky Isles. — The 
Keedles and Arch of Portland Head. — Westman Islands. — Co- 
himbus visited them. — Bird Lamps. — First Glimpses. — Impress- 
ive Scenes. 

''ipxEAR, dear! and you are going to Iceland! a 
JL/ long way from America. I would- like to visit 
your country; but it is very dangerous to travel by 
sea. A vessel was burned up not long since, and 
many of my friends were lost. It was a dreadful 
affair." 

So chatted Hans Christian Andersen, in his out-of- 
the-way chambers, by one of the bustling canals of 
Copenhagen, to the first " Yankee " whose pencil 
gave us, from his own portfolio, graphic pictures of 
the most wonderful scenery and country in the world. 

Young people everywhere know Hans Christian 
Andersen as their friend ; the gifted Danish author, 
who has been the delight not only of children, but 
read by all ages. He moves about the ancient city 
of his birth from one neighborhood of the poor 
classes to another, to study the quaint characters 
which re-appear in his sprightly pages. 

We bid him good-by,and " The Arcturus " steams 
away from the capital of Denmark towards the 
capital of Iceland. 

5 49 



50 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

" The most wonderful land in the world." Yes ; 
although scarcely known in this country, beyond its 
name, tiU the visit of our famous delegation to the 
Millennial Juhilee of 1874, we shall find it so. It is 
wonderful in its origin and scenery, in its fascinating 
old traditions, and real history. Nor did the pulse 
of the youthful reader ever quicken more wildly 
over a tale of fiction, than it will over some of the 
earliest written adventures in Europe, by descend- 
ants of the daring vikings. By the many who have 
thought of Iceland as I have done nearty all my life, 
the people, and their sea-girdled home, have been sadly 
libelled in the chambers of imagery. A few huts 
among snow-banks most of the year, their occupants 
resembling the fur-clad Esquimaux, was the outlined 
view of both, whenever any mention of the far-off, 
desolate spot brought them to mind. 

From Copenhagen, the voyage is through the 
Skager Rack towards the north of Scotland, from 
whose ports Englishmen sail for Iceland. Upon 
leaving the glorious land of Bruce (once itself a 
powerful realm), swarms of rocky isles attract the 
eye. The Shetlands, Hebrides, Orkneys, and many 
more, dot the expanse of waters breaking against 
those northern walls of the British Empire. Farther 
on, about half way to Iceland, are the Faroe Isles. 
Only a few of aU these are inhabited. The people 
are shepherds, tending their flocks in the lonely val- 
leys, fishermen, rocking in their light boats through 
storm and sunshine, and egg-hunters, hanging by 
cords from lofty cliffs, to rob the numberless wild 
birds of their eggs. 



OCEAN SCENES, 51 

Occasionally, by the sea, a village bursts on the 
sight ; rows of low houses, with turf or tarred 
roofs, separated by narrow, dirty streets, with a 
chapel, and sometimes a public-library building. 

The people are a mixed race, in which the emigra- 
tion many centuries ago from Scandinavia is largely 
represented. 

A vessel from Copenhagen, through the Skager 
Rack and Cattegat, will be likely to approach the coast 
of Iceland farther on the southerly side than by the 
other route, feeling its way along through fogs and 
storms, near Portland Head, about seventy miles 
from the capital, on the western side of the island. 
Needle-shaped columns of rock stand in gigantic 
spires of lava, entirely separated from each other. 
A little farther on, is a circular opening through a 
promontory of the same dark rock, two hundred 
feet by ninety, drilled by the perpetual dash of the 
waves through the projecting Avail, and extend- 
ing below the water. A vessel can march through 
this triumphal arch ot the sea. Then, again, a cata- 
ract plunges down fifty feet, without a break, into 
the ocean, whose waves, chafed to a foam against 
the solid barrier, receive the bounding torrent. 
Looking away towards the interior, a greater 
wonder meets the vision. A cascade falls eight hun- 
dred feet down the bare summit, shining like a silver 
streamer on the walls of lava. It is the largest and 
most wonderful harometer in the world. For, when 
the secluded dwellers on the Westman Islands see 
the broad white ribbon tossed into mist by the wind, 
they know it is useless to attempt to reach with their 



62 THE ISLAND OF FIEE. 

frail boats the shores of Iceland, over the reefs, and 
through the angry billows. 

Those Westman Islands are a group of fifteen piles 
of black lava, seven miles from the southern coast 
of Iceland ; only one of which, Heimaey, or Home 
Isle, three miles long, is inhabited. There is a time- 
worn church near the harbor, which was sacked, and 
robbed of its silver and vestments, by pirates, two 
centuries ago. Near it are a pastor, a doctor, and a 
magistrate. Sheep are lifted to the green spots on 
the gloomy heights by ropes, and, when the storm 
rages, are folded in caverns, to save them from being 
swept into the sea. Life here is indeed wild and 
lonely. Only occasionally, during the short summer- 
time, can the people get even to Iceland. The ful- 
mar petrel, a curious bird of very strange odor, with 
its eggs, which are gathered by hanging from the 
rocks, suspended by small cords, such as were used 
hundreds of years ago, are the principal articles of 
food. Offer the daring egg-hunter a strong rope, 
instead of this frail cord of hair, and he will reject 
it, almost with indignation, because his ancestors 
for several hundred years used simply the line. Not 
unfrequently, a bold, strong pian loses his hold, or a 
sharp edge cuts his cord, and away he goes, like a 
falling fragment of lava, down, a thousand feet below, 
either into the sea, or is dashed upon the rocks. 

And how do these imprisoned islanders light their 
huts? You could not guess in a lifetime. They 
take young petrels, and, running wicks down their 
throats, turn these balls of oil into lamps, the small 
flames tipping their bills. The tail;3 resemble han- 



VISIT OF COLUMBUS. 53 

dles^ but the natives carry the plump bodies in their 
palms. 

Infants cannot live on this savage spot, and are 
sent to the mainland during their early cliildhood. 
The air and food for them and their mothers are 
such, that, during the first seven days after birth, 
they are seized with a strange malady, attended with 
spasms, and nearly always die. 

It would do any kind heart good, when some ship 
is approaching, to see these poor people rush to the 
shore, with a heart-hunger intense as the wolf's appe- 
tite for prey, and watch and wait for letters from far- 
off kindred, or Danish newspapers, to learn from 
them the events of the great outside world, from 
which no tidings have come for many a monotonous 
month. 

Shipwrecks, tragedies of the most sanguinary kind, 
pillage by outlaws, and, through all these, the un- 
ceasing roar of the boiling deep, and the fearful 
music of storms sweeping over the barren heights, 
make an outline of the history of the Westman 
Isles. 

Fame's laurels, like every thing earthly, are surely 
a very uncertain possession ; and an unexpected frost 
may at any time nip some of their leaves. It seems 
quite evident that Columbus visited these islands in 
1477, and also the mainland ; it may be, gathering 
valuable hints concerning the direction from Europe, 
of the distant continent, which the bold pioneer 
Northmen had discovered before him. The shrewd 
navigator kept his own secrets, if he had any of 
value to him, and used them in securing for himself 



54 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

a deserved place on the world's scroll of immortal 
names. 

Eight miles west of Cape Reykjanes, there is a 
circular column of rock, called the '' Meal-sack," ris- 
ing two hundred feet above the sea. It leans a little 
like the tower at Pisa, Italy, and is more than four 
hundred feet in circumference. Jts top is covered 
and fringed with guano, giving it the appearance of 
a bag of gigantic size, filled to overflow with meal. 

It has never been scaled by any other feet than 
those of the myriad birds which circle around it, and 
make it their grand dormitory at night ; a monu- 
mental column of some great volcanic upheaval in 
the ages past. 

Whether we embark from Scotland or from Den- 
mark, after sailing five hundred miles, and within 
nearly one hundred and sixty of Greenland, as you 
approach the coast of Iceland, upon the horizon glit- 
ter in the wonderfully transparent air, if clear, the' 
jokuls, or snow-covered mountains, of the unexplored 
heart of Iceland. These are the majestic sentinels, 
which look down upon the surrounding and varied 
landscape, sloping to the sea. Around the shining 
summits, bright, even in the long arctic night, with 
auroral splendors, and the flashing stars of the clear 
heavens, rise the fells, or dark lava mountains, with- 
out crowns of perpetual snow. On their sides are 
spread broad table-lands, dropping off into un- 
fathomed gulfs, and long ravines, whose gloom the 
sun's rays never enter beyond the black crags which 
border them. In their perpetual night, the frost- 
king reigns undisturbed as among the glaciers of the 
Alps. 



ICELAND SCENERY. 55 

Nearer the sea, you behold piles of solid rock ; 
then slopes of loose stone, as if some of those grim 
heaps had been torn up and pounded by giants in 
their pastime. Below these, are terraces of the 
same dark basalt, in whose shadow madly dash the 
widening rivers towards the sea, and lie the peaceful 
valleys. From this largest part of the island, in 
which there is no human life, wind away the many 
fiords^ or inlets, at whose mouths beetling promonto- 
ries guard the only entrance within the borders of 
this desolate land. The shores are fringed with lit- 
tle islands of the same lava rock, over which the in- 
coming tides and waves break into foam, encircling 
the island with a white and beautiful wreath, from 
the protecting deep. 

North-east of Iceland, and nearly east of Green- 
land, there is Jan Mayen, a very wonderful island, 
seldom seen by man. It rises nearly eight thousand 
feet from the sea, with scarcely margin enough for 
landing. It is covered with glaciers, the terraces 
and pinnacles making it look as if a Niagara, while 
pouring its flood over the majestic mountain, dash- 
ing downwards on every side of it in a deluge of 
eddying floods and cascades, had in a moment been 
congealed into shining crystal. Lord Dufferin, now 
governor-general of Canada, visited it in his yacht 
in 1866, and speaks of it as grand beyond the power 
of language to describe. 

An American traveller pleasantly tells us how 
Icelandic scenery impressed him upon his first ride 
into its solitudes : — 

'' The weird, fire-blasted, and flood-scourged wil- 



56 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

derness on all sides was as silent as death, save when 
we approached some dark lagoon, and startled up the 
flocks of water-fowl that dwelt in its sedgy borders. 
Then the air was pierced with wild screams, and 
strange cries,' and the rocks resounded to the flap- 
ping of many wings. To me there was a peculiar 
charm in all this. It was different from any thing 
I had recently experienced. The roughness of the 
trail, the absence of cultivated fields, the entire 
exemption from the restraints of civilization, were 
perfectly delightful after a dreary residence of nearly 
a year in Germany. Here, at least, there were no 
passport bureaus, no meddlesome police, no conceited 
and disagreeable habitues of public places with fierce 
dogs running at their heels, no Verbotener Wegs 
staring one in the face at every turn. Here all ways 
possible to be travelled were open to the public ; 
here was plenty of fresh air, and no lack of elbow- 
room ; here an unsophisticated American could 
travel without being persecuted every ten minutes 
by applications from distinguished officers in livery 
for six kreutzers. 

" It seemed very strange to be travelling in Iceland, 
actually plodding my way over deserts of lava, and 
breathing blasts of air fresh from the summit of 
Mount Hecla. I was at last in the land of the Sagas ; 
the land of fire and brimstone, and boiling fountains ; 
the land which, as a child, I had been accustomed 
to look upon as the Ultima Thule^ where men 
and fish and fire and water were pitted against each 
other in everlasting strife. How often had the 
fascinating vision of Icelandic travel crossed my 



REALIZATIONS. 57 

mind ! and how often had I dismissed it with a sigh, 
as too much happiness to hope for in this world ! 
And now it was all realized. Was I any the hap- 
pier ? Was it what I expected ? Well, we won't 
probe these questions too far. It was a very strange 
reality, at all events." 



CHAPTER IX. 

Icelanders discover Greenland and America. — The Wonderful 
History. — Mysterious Disappearance. — The first Yankee born in 
America, nearly Mne Hundred Years Ago. — Thorfinn returns to 
Iceland. — Death. — The Widow a Pilgrim and Eecluse. 

IT is not upon the island only, that the Northmen 
of Iceland had achieved wonders as a nation : 
they led a continent, if not the world, in discoveries. 
For a hundred years they had roamed the surround- 
ing seas, when there came to its shores, one day, a 
stately chieftain from Norway. He was accompa- 
nied by his son, without attendants, and with the 
stern, sad air of an unwilling exile. And so he was. 
He had smitten down an enemy with his blade, in 
Norway, and was banished from the realm. Father 
and son hved undisturbed, alone in their solitude, 
for three years. Meanwhile the young man, whose 
name was Eirek, had a quarrel with a native of the 
island, and slew him. He, in turn, was sentenced 
to banishment. Whither shall he fly ? Not to Nor- 
way, with the guilt of both himself and Thorwald 
known to his countrymen. He turns the prow of 
his galley towards islands somewhere to the north- 
West, of which an old rover had brought tidings. 

Heroic young man, launching out on unknown 
seas, to find a hermit home ! '' Land ! land 1 '* 

68 



GREENLAND. 59 

breaks from the lips of the fugitive, after several days 
of wandering. He drops anchor by a small island, 
and, securing his bark, builds his winter-hut. Spring 
at length thaws out the imprisoned Eirek ; and his 
sails are unfurled for a larger stretch of land, out- 
lined on the distant horizon. After exploring ver- 
dant valleys with crystal streams, it was called 
Graenland, or Greenland; he shrewdly saying to 
himself, that a good name will attract people thither. 

When his three years of exile were ended, Eirek 
returned to Iceland. A year later a group of gal- 
leys left its coast for Greenland. 

Ten years afterwards his son Lief visited Nor- 
way, was induced by the king to embrace Christi- 
anity, and, in spite of opposition from his father, 
introduced it into his adopted country. 

Across the ocean from Norway to Greenland, con- 
tinued to come the laden ships, till in the twelfth cen- 
tury, in that now so desolate region, there were one 
hundred and ninety farms, a cathedral, eleven 
churches, and two monasteries. The climate was 
then comparatively mild. 

With the dawn of the fifteenth century, the col- 
ony mysteriously disappeared ; and no further records 
of it remain. Whether the population perished with 
cold and famine, from a blockade of icebergs, or 
were swept off by the " black death," a terrible epi- 
demic that prevailed in portions of Northern Europe, 
none can tell us. Mysterious silence will hang over 
that grave of a once prosperous people, till the final 
resurrection of earth's buried humanity. 

Four hundred years afterwards Danish missiona- 



60 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

ries found ruins of churches, walls, and tombstones. 
Upon one of the memorials of the dead, had sur- 
vived a very touching and beautiful epitaph in Runic 
characters : — 

*'ViGDis M. D. HviLER ; Glede, Gud, Sal Henna." 

Vigdis rests here : God gladden her soul ! 

What more beautiful? a flower of himian love, 
adorning the burial-place of a nation, like a fra- 
grant blossom in the silence and gloom of an Alpine 
glen, or on the walls of some old catacomb. 

But, out of this banishment to Greenland, came a 
discovery of far greater interest to us Americans. 
Among the colonists led by Eirek to its slopes, was 
one Hurjulf, an Icelander, whose son Bjarni at the 
time was off the coast of Norway on a trading ex- 
pedition. He had heard nothing of the desertion of 
the old homestead. How coidd he ? No mails 
crossed those northern seas ; and, if years passed 
without tidings from the absent and loved, it was no 
more to them than the delay of the post for a day 
is to us who live by telegraph and steam. 

So Bjarni, who had no idea of being left behind, 
steered his vessel in the direction he guessed the fam- 
ily had sailed. His men stood by him, more faithful 
than the crew of Columbus, four hundred years 
afterwards. Many days he tossed about, going he 
knew not whither. At last a strange land appeared in 
the distance. Coasting along by it, and repelled by 
its forbidding aspect, he sailed away. Upon his re- 
turn, the tale of his adventures was discussed during 
the long winter evenings, in the dwelling of the now 



V IN LAND, 61 

venerable Eirek, until his son, Lief Erikson, encour- 
aged by his father's enthusiasm, determined to seek 
the far land. Buying Bj ami's ship, it was fitted out 
for a long voyage, and its sails were spread for the 
mysterious shores. After keeping the course Bjarni 
indicated for several days, he discerned the very spot 
his predecessor had seen, which was doubtless New- 
foundland. The name given to it, on account of 
the surface of large flat stones it presented upon 
approaching it, was Helluland, or Flat-Stone Land. 
Pushing on westward, another coast rose upon the 
unknown waste of waters, which he called Markland, 
or Woodland, from its abundance of forest-trees. 
This was doubtless Nova Scotia. Onward still, the 
bold navigator kept his westward course. 

A river, which connected a lake with the sea, in- 
vited him to drop anchor from its safety and pleas- 
ant banks, A German, named Tyker, who belonged 
to the crew, came in one day from the country, to 
which he had strayed, wild with delight. He had 
found and feasted upon grapes ! Lief, at first in- 
credulous, was equally glad to find it true : the coun- 
try was named Vinland, or Vineland. This region 
historians believe, beyond a doubt, to have been the 
coast of Massachusetts. Lief's brother Thorwald, 
upon hearing the report of the returning explorers, 
set sail, and went up Buzzard's Bay, touching at 
Martha's Vineyard, and Mount Hope ; and it is quite 
probable that Taunton River is the one up which his 
galley ploughed its way. He was afterwards slain 
by the natives. 

The possible truth of the following statement of 

6 



62 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Prof. Anderson adds interest to the fate of the slain 
adventurer. " In the year 1831 there was found in 
the vicinity of Fall River, Mass., a skeleton in armor ; 
and many of the circumstances connected with it are 
so wonderful that it might indeed seem almost as 
though it were the skeleton of Thorwald Erikson. 
This skeleton in armor, which attracted much atten- 
tion at the time, was the subject of much learned dis- 
cussion ; and our celebrated poet Longfellow wrote, 
in the year 1841, a poem about it, beginning, — 

'* Speak, speak! thou fearful guest! '' 

" After which, he makes the skeleton tell about his 
adventures as a viking, about the pine forests of 
Norway, about his voyage across the stormy deep, 
and about the discovery of America ; concerning 
which he says, — 

** Three weeks we westward bore ; 
And, when the storm was o'er, 
Cloudlike we saw the shore 

Stretching to leeward ; 
There for my lady^s bower 
Built T the lofty tower,* 
Which to this very hour . 
Stands looking seaward." 

These are the last two verses of the poem : — 

** Still grew my bosom then, 
Still as a stagnant fen; 
Hateful to me were men, 

* The tower here referred to is the famous Newport tower in 
Khode Island, which undoubtedly was built by the Norsemen. 



THE FIRST WHITE AMERICAN, Q3 

The sunlight hateful! 
In the vast forest here, 
Clad in my warlike gear, 
Fell I upon my spear: 

Oh, death was grateful! 

.** Thus seamed with many scars, 
Bursting these prison- bars, 
Up to its native stars 

My soul ascended. 
There from the flowing bowl 
Deep drinks the warrior's soul : 
Skaal! to the Northland, skaal! 

Thus the tale ended. " 

" The great Swedish chemist Berzelius analyzed a 
part of the breastplate which was found on the skele- 
ton, and found that in composition it corresponded 
with metals used in the north during the tenth cen- 
tury ; and, comparing the Fall-River breastplate with 
old northern armors, it was also found to correspond 
with these in style." 

In 1006 Thorfinn visited Vinland, in a vessel ; 
and his significant name was Karlsefni ; that is, '' pos- 
sessing manly abilities." And now we have the first 
native American of European blood. 

Gudrid, the beautiful wife of Thorfinn, who was 
with him, gave birth to a son at Straumfjord, or 
Stream-Frith ; in other words. River Inlet. This is 
believed to be Buzzard's Bay; and Strawnly, or 
Stream Isle (because the tide flowed so rapidly by 
it), ''either Martha's Vineyard, or the island of 
Cutty hunk and Nashawna, which then were probably 
connected." 



64 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

The boy was named Snorri ; his whole name being 
Snorri Thorfinnson, or, the son of Thorfinn. He 
founded one of the most distinguished families in 
Iceland. 

Americans in Iceland for more than eight hundred 
years ! Where in history is Columb.us ? Where 
are the old Virginia cavaliers ? and where the Pil- 
grim Fathers ? Who knows but that, centuries before 
the sea-rovers ran " against our rock-bound coast," 
some more ancient wanderer upon the sea ate grapes 
on our soil, but left no record behind ? 

In Thorfinn's colony were 158 persons. Seven of 
them, including Gudrid his wife, were women. 
Three years Thorfinn passed in Vinland, receiving 
visits from the Indians, who had not seen any kind 
of edged tools before. One seized an axe, and ran 
away with it to the encampment of his tribe. 
Another took it, and, as an experiment, sunk it into 
the brain of a companion. The result so terrified 
them all, that a chief, after a careful examination of 
the wonderful instrument, threw it into the sea. 
The sea-roving Thorfinn returned to Iceland, and 
resumed his cherished '' life upon the ocean-wave." 
Age and a fortune induced him at length to retire ; 
and, building a large mansion, he became a revered 
patriarch, whose halls rang with festive hospitality, 
rivalling the wealthy chiefs of Norway in the rich 
entertainments and style of his establishment. 

He died lamented, and was honored with a mag- 
nificent funeral. His widow made a pilgrimage to 
Rome with Snorri, and then retired to a convent near 
a church which her princely husband had erected. 



MONUMENT TO LIEF ERIKSON. 65 

Prof. Rafn, and other learned antiquarians, think 
the evidence sufficient, that the Dighton Writing 
Rock, on the banks of Taunton River, Bristol Co., 
Mass., is a Norse memorial of Thorfinn's expedition ; 
and the translation is rendered as follows : '' Thorfinn, 
with one hundred and fifty-one Norse seafaring men, 
took possession of this land (landnam)." 

Great men sometimes wait long, or, rather, their 
graves do, for the recognition of their greatness. The 
dream did not haunt the wildest fancy of the North- 
men, just eight hundred and seventy-four years ago, 
that now two nations would be interested in the 
erection of a fitting monument to the memory of him 
to whom belongs the honor of the pre-Columbian 
discovery of America, Lief Erikson, the remote 
ancestor of the man whose monitor well-nigh saved 
this Republic, At the head of the movement is 
Ole Bull, president of a society organized for the 
purpose. 

The famous Norwegian poet, Bjornstjerne Bjorn- 
son, is to write the cantata for the dedication of the 
memorial shaft, and Griegg is to compose the music. 

Col. T. W. Higginson, in his standard '' Young 
Folks' United States," now in press, maintains, on 
the contrary, that Gov. Benedict Arnold's will, made 
in 1677, refers to the Newport relic when he Avrites, 
" my stone-built windmill," which resembled struc- 
tures for the same purpose in England. He also 
insists that the Norsemen did not wear brass armor, 
while old Indian warriors did have breastplates made 
from kettles of that metal; while the inscriptions 
on Dighton Rock had the same aboriginal origin. 



CHAPTER X. 

The Sea-Bovers* Ships. — An Illustrious Emigrant. — Interesting 
Ceremonies. — Tunnlaug and the Poet Kafn. — A True Love-Story 
of the Early Period. — The Beautiful Helga. — An Ancient Poet- 
Laureate. — He wins the Hand of Helga. — A Gloomy Festival. 
— A Duel. — A Traitor. — The Sad Ending of a Domestic Tragedy 
in High Life. 

A NORTHMAN'S ship is among the relics in 
the University of Norway, and a good speci- 
men of ancient naval architecture. 

One of the Sagas gives us an account of Olaf 
Tryggvason's galley : " That part of the keel which 
rested on the ground was a hundred and forty feet 
long. None but the choicest material was used in its 
construction. It contained thirty-four rowing- 
benches, and its stem and stern were overlaid with 
gold. Their vessels would compare favorably with 
those of other nations, which have been used in later 
times in expeditions around the world, and were in 
every way adapted for an ocean-voyage. They cer- 
tainly were as well fitted to cross the Atlantic as 
were the ships of Columbus. 

'' This ship of Olaf Tryggvason was called the Long 
Serpent, and was built by the ship-carpenter Thor- 
berg, who is celebrated in the annals of the north 
for his ship-building. The Earl Hakon had a dragon 
containing forty rowing-benches ; King Canute had 

66 



EMIGRATION OF A COLONY, 67 

one containing sixty ; and King Olaf, the saint, pos- 
sessed two ships capable of carrying two hundred 
men each. The Norse dragons glided on the waters 
as gracefully as ducks or swans, of which they also 
had the form." 

A graphic description of the emigration of a colony 
about this time, as it is told in the Sagas, will pos- 
sess the value of detail and genuine narrative. The 
chieftain Rolf, or Thorolf, resided in the northern 
parts of Norway, and, like all other petty kings and 
chiefs of the country, Avas the pontiff of religion, as 
well as the patriarchal head of his clan. Rolf pre- 
sided in the great temple of Thor, the peculiar 
national deity of Norway, in the island of Moster ; 
and wore a long beard, from which he was called 
Thorolf-Moster-skegg(Thorolfthebeardedof Moster.) 
Thorolf had incurred the resentment of King Har- 
rald Hirfager, by giving an asylum to Bjorn, one of 
Thorolf s relations, who was persecuted by that mon- 
arch. Harald held an assize, or Thing ^ and pro- 
claimed Thorolf an outlaw, unless he surrendered 
himself, with Bjorn, into the king's hands, within a 
limited period. Thorolf offered a great sacrifice to 
his tutelary deity, and consulted the oracle of Thor, 
whether he should surrender himself to the king, or 
migrate to Iceland, which had been settled by Ingolf 
ten years before. 

The response of the oracle determined him to seek 
an asylum in this remote and sequestered island. 
He set sail, carrying with him the earth upon which 
the throne of Thor had been placed, the image of 
the god, and the greater part of the wooden work 



68 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

of his temple. He took also liis goods, his slaves, 
and his family. Many friends followed him. 

When the vessel approached the south-westem 
coast of Iceland, and entered the Faxa-Fiord, the 
adventurer cast into the sea the columns of the sanc- 
tuary, on which the image of the god was carved ; 
intending to land wherever they should be carried by 
the winds and waves. He followed them to the 
northward, round the promontory of Snaefellsness, 
and entered the bay on the other side ; to which, 
from its extreme breadth, he gave the name of 
Breida-Fjord or Broad-Ford. 

Here Thorolf landed, and took formal possession 
of that part of the coast in the ancient accustomed 
manner, by walking, with a burning firebrand in his 
hand, round the lands he intended to occupy, and 
marking the boundaries by setting fire to the grass. 
He then built a large dwelling-house on the shores 
of what was afterwards called the Hofs-vog, or Tem- 
ple Bay, and erected a spacious temple to Thor, 
having an entrance-door on each side ; and towards 
the inner end were erected the sacred columns of 
the former temple, in which the regin-naglar^ or nails 
of the divinity, were fastened. 

Within these columns w^as a sanctuary, on which 
is placed a silver ring, two ounces in weight, v/hich 
was used in the ministration of every solemn oath, and 
adorned the person of the pontiff-chieftain in every 
public assembly of the people. The basin for receiv- 
ing the blood of the sacrifice was placed by the side 
of the altar, with the instrument of sprinkling ; and 
around it stood, in separate niches, the images of 



AN ICELANDIC ROMANCE. 69 

the other deities worshipped by the people of the 
north. 

The assize, or Herjar-tJiing^ of the infant com- 
munity, was held in the open air near this temple ; 
and the oaths of the jurors and witnesses were sanc- 
tioned, amidst the blood of sacrifice, by a solemn 
appeal to the national deities : '' So help me, Freyr, 
Njord, and the almighty As!"* [that is, Odin]. 
The site of the temple, and the place of the popular 
assembly, were both considered as consecrated 
ground, not to be defiled with blood, nor polluted 
with any of the baser necessities of nature. A 
tribute was established and collected by Thorolf 
from all the members of his little community, to 
defray the expenses of the temple and the worship 
there maintained. 

There is a fine romance in the Gunnlaug Saga, 
which flings a soft, clear light upon the love-affairs 
of the Icelandic Scandinavians. The best of it is, 
that there is no doubt about its reality. 

Thorstein and lUugi, both men of wealth and 
power, dwelt in the great vale of the Boorgar-Fiord, 
in the western part of Iceland. The former, who 
was son to the celebrated poet Egill, had a daughter 
named Helga, the pride of her family, and the love- 
liest among the women of the island. In the house 
of Illugi, the most remarkable person was his young- 
est son, Gunnlang. Born in 988, he early acquired 
reputation from his stature, strength, and prowess, 

*^s, God; plural, Aesii\ the Gods; here limited to the chief deity 
by the epithet almlylUy. 



70 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

both of body and mind. But bis temper was turbu- 
lent and unyielding ; and, being opposed by his father 
in his desire to travel, he abruptly left his home 
when only fifteen years of age, and took refuge in 
the house of Thorstein, by whom he was hospitably 
received. 

Here, while his mind was instructed by the father, 
his heart was subdued by the gentleness and ele- 
gance of the daughter. Living with Helga, and par- 
taking in all her occupations and amusements, a 
mutual affection was quickly formed ; and the restless 
impetuosity of the boy passed into the refinement 
and delicacy of the youthful lover. His character 
thus changed, Gunnlaug was reconciled to his father, 
and, during three years, resided sometimes with him, 
sometimes at the hous€ of Thorstein. 

When he had reached the age of eighteen, Illugi 
consented to his going abroad; but he would not 
leave Iceland till he had obtained from the father of 
his secretly betrothed Helga a solemn promise that 
the maiden's hand should be given to him, if, after 
three years had expired, he returned to claim it. 

Departing from liis native country, Gunnlaug vis- 
ited the courts of England, Ireland, Norway, and 
Sweden, and was everywhere received with the hon- 
ors to which his person and talents entitled him. 
His extempore poetry was admired, and munificently 
rewarded. This art he had early cultivated ; though 
with so much tendency to satire, that he was called 
Ormstunga^ or the snake-tongue. At the court of 
the Swedish King Olavf, he found the celebrated 
poet Rafn, likewise an Icelander, and of noble bkth. 



AN ICELANDIC ROMANCE. 71 

A friendship formed between them was speedily 
broken by a dispute, which took place in the royal 
palace, respecting the comparative merits of their 
poetry. Eafn, thinking himself disgraced, declares 
his determination of revenge, and, in pursuance of 
this, returns to Iceland, where he seeks to obtain in 
marriage the maiden betrothed to his rival. 

The three years being gone by, and no tidings 
received of Gunnlaug, Thorstein, after some delay, 
gave to Eafn the unwilling hand of Helga, whose 
heart, meanwhile, remained with her former lover. 
The unfortunate Gunnlaug, hastening home to claim 
his bride, was accidentally detained by a ];iurt re- 
ceived in wrestling, and reached the abode of his 
father on the very day on which Helga became a 
wife. A nuptial feast was prepared with all the 
splendor suited to the condition of the families con- 
cerned. Gunnlaug showed himself on a sudden 
among the assembled guests, eminent above all from 
the beauty of his person and the richness of his ap- 
parel. The eyes of the lovers hung upon each other 
in mute and melancholy sorrow : and the bitterest 
pangs went to the heart of the gentle Helga. The 
nuptial feast was gloomy and without joy. A con- 
test between the rivals was prevented by the inter- 
ference of their friends ; but they parted with 
increased animosity and hatred. 

The revenge of Rafn, though thus accomplished, 
gave him little satisfaction. Helga, refusing all 
conjugal endearments, spent her days in unceasing 
sadness. At the great public assembly at Thingvalla, 
the ensuing summer, Gunnlaug challenged his rival 



72 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

to a single combat ; and, the challenge being ac- 
cepted, they met on an island in the river which 
flows into the Lake of Thingvalla. The combat, 
however, though severe, was indecisive; and a re- 
newal of it was prevented by an edict of the as- 
sembly, passed the following day, prohibiting the 
practice of duels in Iceland. 

Gunnlaug here sees his beloved Helga for the last 
time, and in the impassioned language of poetry la- 
ments their mutual affliction q^ud sorrows. Restrained 
from deciding their quarrel in Iceland, and each 
pursued by his own unhappiness and resentment, the 
rivals pass over to the territory of Sweden, and meet, 
attended by their respective companions, at a place 
called Dynguines. A combat takes place ; the com- 
panions of each party fall victims to the bloody fray ; 
and Gunnlaug and Rafn are left alone to decide the 
contest. The foot of the latter is severed by the 
sword of Gunnlaug, who wishes now to discontinue 
the combat ; but Rafn exclaims that he would per- 
severe in it, could he procure some water to alleviate 
his thirst. 

The generous Gunnlaug, trusting to the honor of 
his adversary, brings him water in his helmet from 
an adjoining lake. Rafn, seizing the critical mo- 
ment when the water was presented to him, strikes 
with his sword the bare head of Gunnlaug ; crying 
out, at the same time, that he cannot endure that his 
rival should enjoy the embraces of the beautiful 
Helga. The fight is fiercely renewed, and Gunn- 
laug slays his perfidious opponent; but dies soon 
afterwards of the wound he has himself received, 



AN ICELANDIC ROMANCE, 73 

when yet only in the twenty-first year of his 
age. 

The remainder of the story is short and melan- 
choly. The sorrowing Helga, her husband and lover 
both destroyed, is compelled to give her hand to 
Thorkell, a noble and wealthy Icelander. But these 
nuptials are equally joyless as the former. Her 
mind is wholly devoted to misery and gloom; and 
she sinks an early victim to the grave, bending her 
last looks upon a robe she had received from Gunn- 
laug, and dwelling with her last thoughts upon the 
memory of her unhappy lover. 



CHAPTER XI. 

A Gigantic Work. — Thorwaldsen's Funeral. — Common Phrases. — 
Some Words. — Jack and Jill. — Old Kick. 

THE pre-eminent claim of Iceland to the world's 
grateful admiration is finely presented in a re- 
cent article in " The Edinburgh Review," on the first 
great lexicon of Icelandic words recently published, 
which cost ten years' labor of love by Richard 
Cleasby of the Craig House, Northumberland, Eu- 
rope's unrivalled linguist, and Gudebrand Vigfusson, 
who succeeded him at his death. 

Mr. Cleasby, while getting the materials at Copen- 
hagen, March 25, 1844, attended the funeral of the 
illustrious Thorwaldsen, a native of Iceland ; of 
which "he says, ''The king and queen, and whole 
royal family, were present at the service ; and seven 
or eight thousand persons followed in the procession. 
That may be said of him which can be said of few, — 
he has not left his like behind him." 

After speaking of the few remains of the ancient 
literature of other countries, including England, 
which are soon exhausted, turning enthusiastically 
to Iceland, he writes, " Far otherwise is it with the 
Icelandic, that noble language, the sole depository 
of literary treasures of Scandinavian races, which 
would have perished had it not been for faithful Ice- 

74 



ICELANDIC WORDS. 75 

land." 'Every tribe once traced their origin to Odin, 
ar Wodin. Dr. Dasent says, " No other country 
in Europe possesses an ancient vernacular to be 
compared to this. No romance-literature, and the 
homilies, and works of religious edification, as well 
as those on physical and maral science, whether 
literary or philosophical, can compete with that of 
Iceland." The reviewer inquires, What could we 
do without such words as eall^ skilly score^ same^ its^ 
meeting^ cast^ skin (hide is Anglo-Saxon), which are 
all of Icelandic or old Norse origin ? 

A few samples of fugitive phrases from the lone 
island will reveal further our literary indebtedness to 
it: — 

Brag (to boast), Icelandic brag^ rumor, renown. 

Chap^ kappi^ a fighting man, a hero. 

Dandy ^ ddindi^ any thing good ; ddindis mati^ a 
worthy fellow. The word has certainly changed its 
signification considerably. 

Fellow^ filag^ a comrade ; literally, one who goes 
shares in money. 

To go the whole hog. This signifies, it is thought, 
to do all in one stroke, "hog" to be the Icelandic 
hogg. The Icelanders similarly speak of doing some- 
thing ''me hoggi," all at once. 

Land-luhher. In the early part of last century, 
the word was spelt '' loper ; " '' land-loper " was a 
vagabond who begged in the attire of a sailor, and 
the sea-phrase '' land-lubber " was synonymous. 

Ninny-hammer (a silly fellow). The old Norse 
used einn-hammer to signify a man in his right senses ; 
with nei before it, it would have a contrary meaning, 
and may have originated our word. 



76 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

JRansack : Icelandic ransacka has the same meaning. 

Skulk^ skelk^ fear, from the verb skelka^ to frighten, 
related to skjdlfa^ to tremble. 

Some translated Icelandic words and terms are 
added as a key to many others. 

The letter a, sounded like ow^ is river, and is the 
ending of the names of the streams. Bru is bridge ; 
therefore Bruard is Bridge River. Hvit is white, 
and vatn water, which makes Hvitavatn, White 
Water. JokuU is pronounced yo-kut-1, or, in the 
rapid utterance of the Icelanders, yokul, the distinc- 
tive term applied to the ice-crowned mountains. 
Fell is pronounced fee-et-1, fee-aht-1, and fee-at-1, and 
designates other summits not capped with snow. 

Bla is blue, snae snow ; and we have Blafell^ or 
a blue mountain, standing alone, an isolated peak in 
the middle of a plain. A celebrated mountain in 
the west of Iceland is Snaefell Jokull (^snef-el yo-kuV)^ 
a snowy mountain standing alone, and covered with 
perpetual ice; and thus, in the comprehensive lan- 
guage of the Icelanders, it is aU expressed in two 
words. Oroefa signifies desert, or sandy plain, and 
torf is turf, or peat. There are two mountains, Oroefa 
Jokull and Torf a Jokull ; one standing in a desert, 
and the other in a large peat-district. South of 
Hecla is a lofty and celebrated mountain, known as 
the Byjafjalla Jokull. To the English reader, unac- 
quainted with the Icelandic, it is a crooked-looking 
mouthful ; but on the tongue of an Icelander it flows 
off a round, smooth, sonorous term. They call it z- 
a-fe-aA^-la ^/^-kuU. It defines itself as ice mountain 
of islands, having numerous knobs, or peaks, that 



ICELANDIC WORDS. 11 

stand up like islands in the sea. Many Icelandic 
words are identical with the English, and many- 
others nearly so. It remains for some future lexicog- 
rapher to show the great number of English words 
derived from the Icelandic. Hestr is a horse, holt 
a hill, hils a house, hval a whale, lang long, men men, 
madr man, sandr sand, sitha the side, litil little, mihla 
large (Scottish, muckle)^fjorth a firth or bay, kirkja 
a church, prestur a priest, morgum morning, ux ox, 
daga days. "July, or midsummer month," stands 
literally in Icelandic, Julius eda mithsumar-manu- 
thur. J, at the beginning of words and syllables in 
the Icelandic, is pronounced like y consonant, and in 
the middle of a syllable, like % or long e. 

Their affirmative, ye%^ is 3d (pronounced yow^^ 
and their no is nei (nay). Their counting is much, 
like ours: einn (1), tveir (2), thrir (3), fjcrir (4), 
fimm (6), sex (6), sjo (7), atta (8), niu (9), tiu 
(10), fimmtigir (50), hundrad (100), thusund (1000). 
The date 1874 in words is '' einn thusund 4tta hun- 
drad sjotigir og fjorir." 

"Jack and Jill went up a hill 
To fetch a pail of water ; 
Jack fell down, and broke his crown, 
And Jill came tumbling after.*' 

It is interesting to trace this familiar nursery 
rhyme to Iceland ; to find there also the origin of 
many common phrases, whose origin not many well- 
read people suspect. 

Jack and Jill are mentioned in the '' Younger 
Edda," under the names Hjuki and Bil (which have 
become, in course of time. Jack and Jill), as fetching 

7* 



78 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

water from the well Byrgir. They were taken up 
into heaven to follow the moon. Hjuki signifies the 
quickening, Bil the faOing ; and their attendance on 
the moon simply means that it waxes and wanes. 
The bucket of water evidently refers to the effect of 
the orb upon the weather. 

It will be seen, that, like the Germans, Icelanders, 
when they want a new word, do not go to some for- 
eign tongue, but manufacture one from their own 
language, and always describe forcibly the fresh 
thought or object for which it is needed. 

We must even go to the Northmen to find " Old 
Nick." Hnikars was a title of Odin ; and, when he 
disappeared before the light of Christianity, '' Old 
Nick" remained, and multiphed in the kingdoms 
from which he had retired. In Norway, Nok haunts 
lakes and rivers, demanding annually a human offer- 
ing. In Sweden, Neck is a handsome young man, 
with his extremities like a horse ; a kind of water- 
centaur. 

And here we have a bit of fairy romance, the 
moral of which is very beautiful. 

'' Once upon a time, an old priest was ambling 
homewards on his nag ; and as, towards evenfall, he 
neared a pool, to his astonishment he saw a lad, 
Baked to the waist, sitting on the surface of the 
water, his long golden curls floating over his delicate 
shoulders from beneath a jaunty red cap. The Neck 
held a shining harp in his hand ; and from it rang the 
sweetest harmony as he chanted, ' I know, I know 
that my Redeemer liveth.' 

" The old priest was indignant that a Neck should 



A FAIRY ROMANCE, 79 

apply these words to himself ; and in his zeal he cried 
to him, ' Why dost thou sound thy harp so gleefully, 
O Neck ? Sooner shall this dried cane that I hold in 
my hand grow green, and blossom, than thou shalt 
obtain salvation.' Thereupon the gentle minstrel 
flung aside his harp, and rocked himself, bitterly 
weeping, on the water. The priest turned his horse, 
and continued his course. But, lo ! before he had 
proceeded far, he noticed that tender shoots and 
leaves began to bud forth from his old staff, soon 
bursting into most glorious and fragrant flowers; so 
that, as the old man rode, he seemed hke some saint 
bearing a branch from paradise. This seemed to 
him a sign from heaven, directing him to preach 
redemption after another fashion. He therefore 
hastened back, and found the sobbing Neck on his 
pool, which was full of water, ready to trickle over, 
like an eye full of tears just ere they fall." 



CHAPTER XIT. 

The Icelander's Home. — Dinner at Yidoe. — Occupations. — Dress. ^ 
Education. — Schools. — Pastoral Care. — Sabbath Scenes. 

ODD homes have these enlightened Icelanders. 
The dwelling of a well-to-do farmer resembles 
a small village. The picture of Grettir's birthplace 
at Bjarni will furnish a partial yiew. 

" How they build houses in a country with no 
trees and no brick-kilns," is a natural and interest- 
ing question. We will look over a snug farmhouse, 
and see. Its front view, to begin with, is unlike that 
of any other civilized mortal's home. It is composed 
of half a dozen gable ends of low cottages, all joined 
together at the sides into a single habitation, facing 
the north. This point of the compass is the most 
common outlook. On the ridges are horns, or unpre- 
tending vanes ; below them, doors painted red, in 
this instance, as the dwellings frequently have them. 
Excepting the few houses built of imported or drift 
wood, the roof is covered with grass, and the walls 
are blocks of lava, laid one upon the other, six feet 
in thickness, and four and a half high, making a 
miniature fortress. Over these rises the narrow arch- 
way of roof, whose rafters are the ribs of a whale, 
or whatever can be picked up, which will serve the 
purpose ; and on these is spread the coarse turf. 

80 



A FARMHOUSE. 81 

Through it, here and there, the hght enters by three 
or four inches square of glass and the opening over 
the kitchen-fire. 

We go through a long narrow passage-way, from 
which are entrances to the different apartments. 
The bathstofa, or kitchen, is the most important of 
them to a hungry traveller. Around the forge-like 
fireplace, on the floor, or stored in corners, lie the 
few utensils for cooking. These prepare the sago- 
soup, the mutton, stock-fish, lichens, skier, and 
curds. Milk and " corn-brandy " are common. The 
lichens are made quite palatable by cooking. The 
skier is a kind of cheese, made of milk and rennet, 
and the curds not unlike those everywhere made 
from milk. The sour whey is the common drink. 
The stock-fish are the cod and haddock, split, the 
backbone removed, and dried fresh in the pure air 
and winds, then eaten like bread, with or without 
butter. The natives prefer the last article sour; in 
which condition tlie butter will keep for years. 

The family bedroom is one apartment, with lock- 
ers on each side, under the low roof, resembling the 
berths in the ship's side of the hold. To a stranger 
accustomed to more space and better ventilation, 
they are not at first inviting. 

In the few villages, many of the houses are built 
of imported lumber ; and occasionally one is more 
spacious, and neatly finished and well furnished. Of 
the dwellings at the capital, as he saw them, '' swept 
and garnished" for a holiday, Taylor writes, '' The 
best houses in Reykjavik are very much alike. 
There is usually a hall about large enough to pull 



82 Yhe island of fire, 

off an overcoat in, then the reception-room, and 
beyond it the salon where the ladies receive their 
guests. White curtains, pots of flowers in the win- 
dows, a carpet on the floor, a sofa, centre-table with 
books and photographs, are the invariable features of 
this apartment ; and the guest easily forgets both lat- 
itude and locality while conversing with a grave, 
earnest-faced young lady upon Shakspeare, German 
literature, or the latest music." 

The summer-time is given to the business of the 
farm, including the cultivation of the few vegetables 
sometimes planted in the small gardens. 

In the late winter and spring months, is gathered 
the harvest of the ocean, the abundance of fish. 
Men come from a great distance, in the darkness of 
the long night, to the coast, to engage in this indis- 
pensable yet rough occupation. With the meal and 
skier they get for their labor, they dry, and carry to 
their homes, the supply of fish on which they mainly 
depend for subsistence the rest of the year. 

The stems and roots of the angelica are gathered 
for food, and eaten raw with butter, also the rumex ; 
one species furnishing when steeped a pleasant bev- 
erage. The lichens are an important article of food. 
Of the diandria, and other willows and plants, ink 
and dyes are made. 

To gather the lichen islandicus in the deserts of 
Skaaptar-fel, companies come from a gteat distance, 
and encamp among the rocks, transporting in their 
panniers on the backs of their ponies the gathered 
loads to the factory at Reykjavik, or elsewhere, and 
sell to the Danish merchants. 



A WINTER EVENING SCENE, 83 

The wild corn, and other coarse products, are 
ground in hand-mills of original pattern, but resem- 
bling all similar manual machines. 

During the winter imprisonment, as we should 
regard it, the men prepare for spring toil, and tend 
their flocks ; the women dress the wool and eider- 
down, and look after the usual details of domestic 
Hfe. 

We will enter a home-circle upon one of the long 
winter nights. High winds toss the falling snow 
from the cHffs, and almost bury with a white mantle 
the humble dwelling. Parents, children, and domes- 
tics are seated on their lockers, or beds, in the princi- 
pal apartment, under the light of the single lamp 
suspended from the ceiling. A member of the group 
designated takes from the shelf an ancient Saga, or 
Shakspeare or Milton, in their native language, and 
reads aloud, while the rest listen, with busy hands 
in various work. 

Sometimes, owing to the scarcity of books in this 
" sequestered country," recitations from some favor- 
ite historical poem will be the entertainment. Such 
domestic scenes have been common for centuries in 
Iceland. 

Very young children will read excellently, and 
write with elegance. 

There are here, as everywhere, the abodes of pov- 
erty in rags ; and there is generally, and naturally, 
from the scanty materials for building, the small 
houses in consequence, and the isolated manner of 
life, great indifference to neatness, often repulsive to 
strangers. Nor was there ever, from the dsijs when 



84 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

Norwegian vikings threw the bones at each other, 
their hands and mouths had picked, across Odin's 
hall, that regard for domestic refinements, so far as 
external habits are concerned, to which most nations, 
even those less enlightened, are accustomed. There 
was a rough civility at the festal board, and little 
care how they got their nightly rest. 

They have a very matter-of-fact way of getting the 
next indispensable want to food supplied. For ages 
it has been customary, when a guest retired to his 
room, for the wife or daughter of the host to assist 
the traveller in preparing for rest. After depositing 
by his pillow a httle lunch, the really modest attend- 
ant offers to " lend a helping hand " in the disrob- 
ing for the couch, whose covering she has turned 
down for his reception. When under the coverlet of 
down, and sinking into it beneath him, she tucks him 
up, and leaves him with a good-night kiss. Such has 
been for centuries the simple and sincere hospitality 
of the pure-hearted Icelanders. 

Around the culinary department, are a bedroom, 
dairy, fuel-room, storehouse, outhouse, and some- 
times a smithy. 

No morning dawns on a night of rest, unless we 
dignify with the name of night, twilight for an hour 
or two. The sun is high in the heavens at six 
o'clock ; when you do not look out of the window, 
having none, but only catch through a pane of glass 
in the roof, or a crevice, the gleams of the flood of 
light poured over the still landscape. 

Soon after the wife or daughter enters with a cup 
of coffee for refreshment, before rising. Sipping this, 



HOSFITALITY, 85 

and making toilet, you emerge into the bathstofa, 
and thence into the glorious solitude of nature. 

The kindly summons to breakfast breaks in upon 
quiet meditation, followed by a return to the bath- 
stofa, to sit on a locker, with a plate in hand or on 
the knee, to be served with rarely cooked mutton, 
skyr, and, it may be, fresh fish and milk. It has been 
customary for men to eat first, the women following 
by themselves ; not as a mark of inferiority, but a 
notion founded on their Hebrew ideas of the proper 
relation of the sexes, along with the inconvenience 
of all eating together. Especially is it an honorable 
custom, for the ladies of the house, when guests are 
entertained, to wait upon the table. 

Politeness is ingrained in their very natures. The 
humblest peasant lifts his cap to another when they 
meet. They shake hands together with the air of 
nobility. The ''powdered weed "they carry in a 
horn flask like that we use for ammunition, and, 
throwing back the head, tip the small end into the 
nostril. 

The Icelanders offer their hospitality freely to 
strangers ; and as in the experience of a recent trav- 
eller, who, when he handed one of them money for 
showing him the way to a dwelling, laughingly ran 
away, do not expect nor desire compensation for 
trivial acts of friendly aid. Owing to their limited 
means, they do receive, and sometimes, like humanity 
the world over, ask, a high price for services requir- 
ing time and toil. 

One could scarcely believe, without the testimony 
of some of England's noblest men, who were guests 

8 



86 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

sixty years ago, that sucli a dinner as we shall briefly 
describe could have been spread on the isle of Vidoe, 
among the eider-ducks, by Stiftsamptonan, or Ex- 
Gov, Stephensen, who had the sinecure of the 
island given him for life, in recognition of his '^ distin- 
guished* services." Sixty engravings hung on the 
walls of the house built of stone. The governor was 
dressed in full official suit, — coat of scarlet cloth, 
turned up with green, and ornamented with lace ; 
pantaloons of blue cloth, trimmed with gold lace ; 
half-boots with gold bindings ; and three-cornered 
hat with gold tassels. But to the dinner. The 
ladies, as is the rule, were the waiters. They first 
served a large tureen of soup, made of sago, raisins, 
and claret ; next, two boiled fresh salmon ; then 
came another tureen, filled with boiled eggs of sea- 
fowl, with sauce of cream and sugar ; the succeeding 
course was roast mutton, with prepared herbs ; and, 
finally, waffles, with coffee and wines. 

The worst of it is, it is expected that a guest, for 
the first time, will eat freely of each course, whether 
surfeited or not. To do otherwise would be an 
incivility. 

The full dress of the fashionable ladies of the olden 
time was often gorgeous. Here is a sample, bought 
by a tourist half a century ago. 

The underskirt is of blue cloth, with a waist of 
scarlet, ornamented with gold lace, and silver loop- 
holes for lacing it. Strips of black velvet cover the 
seams the whole length, and similar ones of blue 
fabric, stamped, run across the bottom. Over the 
waist is worn a jacket of black cloth, having on its 



COSTUMES, 87 

front two strips, same color, and a like number of 
gold lace. Upon the shoulders and back are slips 
of orange velvet. The belt is black velvet, with 
rich silver-gilt ornaments. The ruff is of the mate- 
rial in the belt, black and crimson, bright with silver 
lace ; and, connected with it, a tippet of rich black 
and brown velvet. * 

Plated silver chains and medals were also worn. 

With all these trappings upon a beautiful form, 
the fair Icelander must have presented a very strik- 
ing contrast to the world around her ; especially if 
she were walking out upon the lava pavement, under 
the shadow of some savage cliff, with only the ever- 
present raven for her companion. If going to church 
or a reception, a cloak of wadmal, fastened by three 
large, convex, figured silver buttons, was thrown over 
her shoulders. The head-dress was made of white 
linen or cotton, shaped like a large flat horn, leaning 
forwards. On horseback (the side-saddle somewhat 
like the circular seat of an arm-chair), she wore over 
that a conical cap, completely covering and protect- 
ing it. A tall '^ beaver " of the sugar-loaf style, 
without a brim, would give a good idea of this curi- 
ous covering. 

The girls and boys wore gaudy little caps. 

The men have not been peculiar and showy in 
their wardrobe since the ancient days of the no- 
bility and chieftains. Their jackets of wadmal 
have a resemblance to our sacks, and their hats 
to the common felts. They are quite equal to the 
average American physically. 

Their height is medium, or a little below; com- 



88 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

plexion very light and ruddy; hair blonde, and 
seldom curled; their eyes blue or gray; and their 
"build" compact, rather than graceful. Their gen- 
eral physique does not, however, differ materially 
from that of the Anglo-Saxon. 

Physicians have never been numerous in Iceland, 
for two reasons : invalids do not abound, and the 
patients are scattered sparsely over the wild country. 
Sometimes the doctor's circuit will have a diameter 
of a hundred miles or more. Four physicians have 
the island in charge, one each to the four divisions. 
There are no homoeopaths, electricians, or hydropaths 
there. 

The world's " peacemakers " have never been 
wanting in Iceland. No visitor to a metropolis of 
our day hstens to keener retorts, more artful eva- 
sions, or sharper chicanery, than were heard in the 
Althing, long before a parliament sat in London. 

But, unlike our present, thej^ had no '' members of 
the bar," as such. All the leading men were their 
own attorneys ; from boyhood studying the verbal, 
and then the written enactments by which they were 
governed. 

Everybody must have an education in Iceland. Re- 
flect upon this marvel of history, — in such a country, 
in mere huts, amid loneliest, barrenest solitudes, 
culture that would shine in the most brilliant circles 
of our ''best society." Such triumphs of mind and 
heart as this nation presents have no parallel in aU 
the wide world's arena of knowledge and virtue. 

The school-year is from October to the end of 
May; the remaining four months of vacation are 



EDUCATION. 89 

devoted to rural pursuits, in whicli all classes are to 
share. 

After mastering Latin, and making some progress 
in Hebrew and Greek, with the rules of interpreta- 
tion of the Old and New Testaments, the student 
becomes a demissus; that is, leaves school to stud^ 
at home. Here he reads ecclesiastical history, homi- 
letics, &c. Some scholars, in addition, visit Copen- 
hagen or Stockholm, or both, to complete their 
general culture. 

Most of the churches and families have libraries, 
in which ''light literature," beyond the romances of 
the old Sagas, has no place. 

A vast number of manuscripts on various subjects, 
from Sagas to science, have been deposited in 
libraries at the Danish capital, and transferred to 
private collections. Excepting the few who attend 
the academical course at Reykjavik, the children pur- 
sue their studies under the parental roof. We have 
a pleasant sketch of this part of domestic life, in Mr. 
Byrce's "Impressions of Iceland." In one regard 
*'the women of Iceland have obtained completer 
equality than their sisters in Continental Europe. 
They receive exactly the same education as the men 
do. There are no schools in the islands, natural^, as 
families live mostly a dozen miles apart ; and instruc- 
tion is therefore given by the father to his sons and 
daughters alike and together; the priest — where 
there is a priest — sometimes adding a little Latin or 
Danish. Thus the girl learns all her parents can 
teach her ; and is as good an arithmetician, and as 
familiar with the Sagas, as her brothers. Accomplish- 

8* 



90 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

ments, of course, are pretty well out of the question ; 
painting, not only from the difficulty of procuring 
materials, but because there is really nothing to 
paint; dancing, because you can seldom gather a 
sufficiently large party, and have no rooms big 
enough; instrumental music, on account of the im- 
possibility of transporting a piano over rocks and 
bogs on the back of a pony. Nevertheless, we found 
in a remote house (a good wood house, by the way) 
upon the coast, where we were hospitably entertained 
for a day and night, not only a piano, but several 
young ladies who could play excellently on it, and a 
guitar, accompanying themselves to songs in four or 
five languages ; the Swedish, as we thought, the 
prettiest of all." 

Their drinking customs are those of the times 
before the temperance lecturer was abroad, and who 
has not yet visited Iceland. Wine or corn-brandy is 
always offered to guests, yet drunkenness is com- 
paratively rare. They have not the temptation of 
social excitements, nor have they ever seen the blight- 
ing curse of alcohol as it is forced upon our observa- 
tion in constant and wide-spread ruin. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

A.n Icelandic Funeral. — A Wedding. — Kissing. — Peril of an Igno- 
rant Bride. — The Parish Church Scene. — Keligious Character. 
— Parish Pegister. — Yule. 

'TXT'E have from a spectator a sketch of an Ice- 
VV lander's funeral. The body of a sailor who 
died upon the sea was borne to the beach, where it 
was met by the clergyman, dressed in his priestly 
robe. The small procession moved toward the nar- 
row enclosure of unmarked mounds, the minister 
chanting as they entered it, joined by the people, till 
the plain coffin rested in its lava-grave. 

With a wooden spade he then threw a little earth 
on it, repeating words like those in the beautiful 
burial-service, '' Dust to dust," &c. 

The chanting followed again, until the grave was 
filled. Then, in silence, the group placed their hats 
before their faces in prayer. With a reverent bow 
of respect and farewell to the dead, they walked with 
serious air away. To this the marriage-ceremony 
furnishes a pleasant contrast. The bride in full dress, 
attended by her mother, is seated one side of the par- 
ish church. On the opposite side is the bridegroom 
in sealskin slippers fastened by cross-bands of white 
tape, and striped garters around about his legs, accom- 
panied by his friends, indulging in the common luxury 

91 



92 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

of snuff. The pastor commences the service with a 
chant, and those present follow him. After prayer 
the happy couple come forward to listen to the long 
exhortation. The usual questions are asked, and the 
hands joined by the clergyman, who also lays his 
hands in benediction upon their shoulders. They 
are conducted to their separate seats, and chanting 
closes the wedding. 

Upon leaving the church the bride leads the pro- 
cession, with her group of female friends ; the bride- 
groom follows with his company. After the supper 
the bride retires ; and, when her new lord arrives at 
the apartment, he finds it barricaded with the friends 
of the bride. He is not permitted to pass them until 
he pledges a generous gift to his wife. 

A clergyman might decline to marry a couple if 
the bride were unable to read. 

The old Northmen's statute fined a man, for kiss- 
ing an unmarried woman without her consent, three 
marks of silver ; money enough to buy a suit of 
clothes. If the victim were a wife or widow, exclu- 
sion was the penalty ; that is, imprisonment within 
certain limits around his home for months or years. 
Elopement was punished with banishment. 

Surely fair lips and peaceful homes were pro- 
tected, by the strong arm of the law, against any 
other arm more tangible, yet less dreaded by lovers. 
A kiss is now the common "good-night" and morn- 
ing salutation, and whenever they meet each other 
by the wayside. 

The following story from the Laxdaela-Saga will 
serve to show in what light marriage was regarded in 



iy 



A MATRIMONIAL STORY. 93 

Iceland, and in what a very equivocal manner a 
mater-familias sometimes exercised her authority. 

Olaf, the son of Hoskuld and Melkorka, was 
accompanied, we are told, on his return from Nor- 
way, where he had been to purchase timber, by one 
of his old sea-roving friends, named Geirmund, at 
whose house he had passed the winter. Geirmund, 
in his turn, became the winter guest of Olaf in Ice- 
land, and soon fell in love with that chieftain's 
daughter, the beautiful Thurida. 

Olaf, though he was very fond of his Norwegian 
friend, would not hear talk of a marriage. Geir- 
mund, seeing that he had no chance of succeeding 
with the young lady's father, began to flatter her 
mother Thorgerda, and, by dint of entreaties and 
costly presents, at length obtained her consent. The 
marriage was celebrated with great pomp ; Olaf invit- 
ing his numerous friends and dependents to a sump- 
tuous feast in a large banque ting-hall he had recently 
erected, the walls of which were hung with tapestry 
representing the story of Baldur and the prowess of 
Thor. When Geirmund had passed three years in 
the married state, he began to weary of his wife ; 
and Thorgerda was at length obliged to tell her hus- 
band that she had ascertained that their son-in-law 
intended to return to Norway, leaving Thurida and 
her daughter Groa without making any provision for 
their support. Olaf said the marriage was her doing, 
not his ; and, instead of showing any sign of displeas- 
ure, he was more friendly than usual with Geirmund, 
and even made him a present of a fine trading-vessel, 
being probably very glad to get rid of liim. Geir- 



94 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

mund went on board this vessel, and was waiting 
only for a favorable wind, when one morning, at 
break of day, Thurida entered the cabin when he 
was asleep, placed her child in his bed, and, taking a 
splendid sword which she knew he set great value 
on, got into her boat, and told her men to row off 
agam. 

Geirmund awoke at the moment, and, becoming 
aware of what had happened, called on his wife to 
come back, and take Groa, and return him his sword ; 
for which he offered to give her any sum she might 
think proper to demand. Thurida told him that she 
would do no such thing ; that he had acted dishonor- 
ably towards her, and that they were no longer man 
and wife ; and accordingly returned home, and gave 
Geirmund's sword to her cousin Bolli. Thurida, 
after this proceeding, could of course re-marry ; and 
we presume, that, in those days, the want of maternal 
affection she had evinced by exchanging her only 
child for a sword, would not have prevented her from 
finding a second husband. 

The Icelander's religious faith has for centuries 
been very simple, and often, as everywhere, superfi- 
cial ; but infidelitj^, in its multiplying forms among 
us, is unknown. 

If no other volumes are in his dwelling, the Bible, 
and books for church-services, are there ; and, in their 
scattered homes, prayer and praise ascend to the in- 
finite Father and Saviour of all who trust in him. 

Before setting out on a journey, it has been the 
custom to invoke a blessing ; and, when the fishing- 
boat was ready, for the crew, reverently placing their 



RELIGIOUS SERVICES, 95 

hats before their faces, to pray for success and safe- 
ty, repeating the same ceremony upon reaching their 
destination. 

In seasons of great calamity, days of public fast- 
ing and prayer were appointed. 

The Icelander's sabbath, like that of colonial New 
England, which has not yet wholly disappeared from 
its valleys, commences at six o'clock Saturday even- 
ing, and closes the same hour the following day. To 
have made sunset the evening limit would give three 
hours of day in midwinter, and nearly twenty-three 
in summer. Baronet Mackenzie's picture is touching, 
in its simplicity, of the sabbath scenes, the religious 
character of the people, and the pastor's relation to 
his parish. 

'' The ordinary service of the churches, in Iceland, 
consists of prayer, psalms, a sermon, and readings 
from the Scriptures. The prayers and readings are 
rather chanted than spoken by the priest, who per- 
forms this part of the service at the altar of the 
church. The sermons appear in general to be pre- 
viously composed, and are delivered from notes. Of 
the style and character of these compositions, we 
had not the means of forming an accurate judgment ; 
but, in those instances where we attended the public 
worship of the country, it seemed from the warm 
and impassioned manner of their delivery, and from 
the frequent use of the figure of interrogation, that 
a powerful appeal was made to the feelings, as well 
as to the understanding, of the audience. In the 
conduct of the religious service, much decorum is 
maintained. 



96 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

" The moral and religious habits of the people at 
large may be spoken of in terms of the most exalted 
commendation. In his domestic capacity the Ice- 
lander performs all the duties which his situation re- 
quires, or renders possible ; and while, by the severe 
labor of his hands, he obtains a provision of food 
for his children, is it not less his care to convey to 
their minds the inheritance of knowledge and virtue. 
In his intercourse with those around him, his char- 
acter displays the stamp of honor and integrity. His 
religious duties are performed with cheerfulness and 
punctuality ; and this even amidst the numerous 
obstacles which are afforded by the nature of the 
country, and the climate under which he lives. 
The sabbath scene at an Icelandic church is one of 
the most singular and interesting kind. The little 
edifice, constructed of wood and turf, is situated 
perhaps amid the rugged ruins of a stream of lava, 
or beneath mountains which are covered with never- 
melting snows; in a spot where the mind almost 
sinks under the silence and desolation of surround- 
ing nature. Here the Icelanders assemble to per- 
form the duties of their religion. A group of male 
and female peasants may be seen gathered about the 
church, waiting the arrival of their pastor ; all hab- 
ited in their best attire, after the manner of the 
country, their children with them; and the horses, 
which brought them from their respective homes, 
grazing quietly around the little assembly. The ar- 
rival of a new-comer is welcomed by every one with 
the kiss of salutation ; and the pleasures of social 
intercourse, so rarely enjoyed by the Icelanders, are 



A REPUBLIC FORMED, 97 

happily connected with the occasion which summons 
them to the discharge of their rehgious duties. The 
priest makes his appearance among them as a friend : 
he salutes individually each member of his flock, and 
stoops down to give his almost parental kiss to the 
little ones who are to grow up under his pastoral 
charge. These offices of kindness performed, they 
all go together into the house of prayer." 

The young people are certainly sensible in relation 
to marriage, which usually takes place between the 
ages of twenty-five and thirty. In the year 1858 
there were four hundred and eighty-seven weddings, 
and in no instance were the parties under twenty. 
There were three suicides, sixty -five drowned, seven- 
teen died of other accidents, and nineteen hundred 
and thirty-nine of disease. Four hundred and 
eighty-nine children died between the ages of one 
and five, and only sixty-eight between five and ten. 
Fifteen persons lived to be over ninety, and five to 
be nearly a century old. 

We have a page copied from the records kept by 
a quiet, faithful pastor. 

There are two views, through the lattice-work of 
this record, into the interior life of the Icelanders, — 
their moral and religious culture, and the origin 
of surnames. 

The pastoral care is next to the parental, in watch- 
ful oversight of the family, without interfering at 
all with the proper authority of the father and 
mother. The presence of the preacher is not dreaded 
as an interference with domestic order or social free- 
dom and innocent pleasures. 





98 



THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



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CHRISTMAS. 99 

In cliristening the children, the boy's name is taken 
from the Christian name of his father, adding son to 
it ; and the daughter adds dottir in the same manner. 

Yule, or Christmas, has ever been the anticipated 
holiday at the north, as it is, indeed, by the young 
everywhere. In towns the women go forth with 
lanterns to the markets, to make purchases for the 
joyous occasion ; the fabulous Santa Claus contrib- 
utes to the excitement ; and feasting, wine, and rev- 
elry have been the unfailing variety in this annual 
gathering. Old and young enter into the festivities 
and amusements with an enthusiasm which lights up 
with intensest social pleasure the long winter of 
darkness relieved diurnally only by a dismal noon. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Phenomena of the Heavens. — Mock Sims. —Storm Eings. — Auro- 
ra. — Meteors.— Tempests. —Icelander's Wealth. —Domestic An- 
imals. — Swans and Ravens. — The Eider-Duck, and its Do^vn. — 
The Sacred Bird. — Keindeer. — Salmon-Festival. — Sheep Gath- 
ering. 

THE Icelanders have, for their alternately long 
days and nights, fine displays upon the skies ; 
while the same kind we have here are much more 
beautiful in their pure, transparent air. 

Mock suns, sometimes nine of them at once, will 
blaze around the ''king of day." When thickening 
haze changes the blue to gray, brilliant storm-rings 
herald the coming tempest. 

Night, with the twilight, has her peculiar glories. 
It is Christmas, a little after one o'clock in the after- 
noon. We walk out to watch the declining sun from 
the hill. The iron cliffs are tipped and belted with 
golden light, until the brown heather wears a blush 
of deepest hue. The sea flashes back the farewell 
splendor, as the orb sinks for a score of hours be- 
neath the horizon. 

The colors fade gradually into the starry night, 
and away to the north come out the scarlet stream- 
ers of the aurora. From the zenith they stretch to 
the horizon, swaying and quivering as if they were 
moved by the frosty wind, until the grim rock be- 

100 



BEAUTY OF THE SCENERY, 101 

neatli and around glows in the mystical radiance 
they fling over the dark '' Maid of the Norths" as 
the Icelanders fondly call their cherished island. We 
have no more than a faint idea of this exhibition on 
an arctic sky. 

Then such meteors as dart across the arch, with 
their transient lines of silver, in quick succession ! 

But there are great contrasts to these : winter 
nights, when the hurricane rages and howls till the 
lava-houses tremble, and the heavens seem a fright- 
ful chaos of warring elements; or when the snow 
comes down in blinding storms, and buries all the 
blackness of mountain and valley and plain with its 
drifted wealth of crystal mist from the frost-king's 
arctic stores. 

The wild beauty of the northern scenery struck 
the poetic soul of Alfieri, as it must that of every 
other traveller of genius and sensibility. He was 
moved by the magnificent splendor of its winter 
nights ; and, above all, by the rapid transition from 
the rudeness of that season to the mild bloom of 
spring. 

** Oh! 'tis the touch of fairy hand 
That wakes the spring of northern land. 
It warms not there by slow degrees, 
With changeful pulse, the uncertain breeze; 
But sudden on the wondering sight 
Bursts forth the beam of living light. 
And instant verdure springs around , 
And magic flowers bedeck the ground. " 

The graceful swan and the eider-duck are the only 
birds valuable to the Icelander. They furnish him 

9» 



102 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

quills and down for his own use, and for market. 
The swans are killed upon the solitary lakes. But 
the harvesting of down, and the habits of the duck, 
are too interesting to pass without a visit to their 
favorite island Vidoe. And no better companion to 
describe what we can see on Vidoe, can we have than 
Baronet Mackenzie, the polished, gentle, truthful 
historian of Iceland. It is early June. 

" The eider-ducks had now assembled in great 
numbers to nestle : at all other times of the year 
these birds are perfectly wild. They are protected 
by the laws, a severe penalty being inflicted on any 
person who kills one. During the breeding season, 
the fine is thirty dollars for each bird. As our boat 
approaches the shore, we pass through multitudes of 
these beautiful fowls, which scarcely give themselves 
the trouble to go out of the way. Between the land- 
ing-place and the old governor's house, the ground 
is strewed with them ; and it requires some caution 
to avoid treading on the nests. The drakes walk 
about, uttering a sound very like the cooing of doves, 
and are even more famihar than the common domes- 
tic ducks. All around the house, on the garden-wall, 
on the roofs, and even in the inside of the houses, 
and in the chapel, are ducks sitting on their nests. 

" Such as have not been long on the nest leave it on 
being approached ; but those that have more than 
one or two eggs sit perfectly quiet, suffering us to 
touch them, and sometimes making a gentle use of 
their bills to remove our hands. If a drake happens 
to be near his mate, he is extremely agitated if any 
one approaches her. He passes and repasses between 



EIDER DUCK, 103 

her and the object of his suspicion, raising his head, 
and cooing. 

'' The nests are lined with down, which the duck 
takes from her own breast ; and there is a sufficient 
quantity laid around the nest for covering up the 
eggs when the duck goes to feed, which is generally 
during the time of low water. The down, which is a 
valuable article of commerce, is removed at two dif- 
ferent times from the nest. Sometimes the poor 
duck is compelled to provide a fourth lining ; and, 
when her down is exhausted, the drake supplies the 
deficiency. 

'' A certain number of eggs is also removed, as they 
are esteemed a great delicacy. Our good friend at 
Vidoe used to send us two hundred at a time. 
When boiled hard, they are tolerably good, but much 
inferior to the eggs of common poultry. Swan's 
eggs are superior, and really excellent, when boiled 
hard. 

''When taken from the nest, the eider-down is 
mixed with feathers and straws. To separate them, 
and make the down fit for market, is part of the em- 
ployment of the women during winter. As soon as 
the young birds leave the eggs, the duck takes them 
on her back, and swims to a considerable distance from 
the shore. She then dives, and leaves the little ones 
to exercise themselves in swimming about.. As soon 
as they have the use of their feet in this way, the 
duck returns, and becomes their guide. Several 
broods, often great numbers, join company, and are 
seen quite wild for a few weeks ; after which they 
totally disappear." 



104 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

The wealth of the Icelandic farmer is estimated 
by the number of his horses, cows, and sheep. No 
swine have an enclosure near his house ; no geese and 
ducks float on the Avaters, and salute him with the 
music so familiar to the yeomanry of other lands. 
His Esquimau dog is his only domestic animal, ex- 
cepting very small ones, often haunting the interior 
of his habitation. Rats and mice do not gambol 
under his roof of turf, nor in the solid walls : he 
does not, therefore, need the services of the cat, 
excepting in Danish factories, in a few of the towns, 
to which cats were brought over in ships. 

The ravens in pairs make themselves at home 
around every dwelling, to devour such garbage as 
may be thrown within their reach. You can see, 
everywhere, these sombre birds perched on the 
house-tops, or ledges not far distant. 

The raven held the highest rank among birds in the 
old mythology of the north. We have an illustration 
in the battle of Thromund and Thorbiorre, who inter- 
pret the prophecies of the bird : — 

THR. 

*' Hark! the raven* s croak I hear: 
Lo I the bird of fate is near. 
In the dawn, with dusky wings, 
Hoarse the song of death she sings. 
Thus in days of yore she sang, 
When the din of battle rang, 
When the hour of death drew nigh. 
And mighty chiefs were doomed to die. 

THOR. 

The raven croaks; the warriors slain 
With blood her dusky wings distain; 



ARCTIC BIRDS. ^ 105 

Tired, her morning prey she seeks, 
And with bJood and carnage reeks. 
Thus, perched upon an aged oak, 
The boding bird was heard to croak; 
When all the plain with blood was spread, 
Thirsting for the mighty dead." 

The great varieties of arctic birds, many of them 
the most beautiful in the world, excepting a few gor- 
geous natives of tropical lands, are found in Iceland. 
Here the mysterious auk has had for ages liis home ; 
the razor-bill, who, to teach his young to fly, carries 
them on his back out to sea, and, diving, leaves them 
to paddle their way along ; the gay puffin ; the 
graceful tern ; the piratical skua, who snatches his 
prey from the bills of gulls and gannets ; the solan- 
goose, with black-bordered plumage ; the magnificent 
snowy owl ; and, to crown this partial list, there is 
the swift falcon, noAV the national bird of the island. 

The noble reindeer, the Laplander's dependence, 
was imported into Iceland a century ago ; and in 
some parts of the interior roams in large herds, but 
is left quite unmolested. 

Polar bears sometimes make a voyage of pleasure 
on icebergs from Greenland, but find themselves on 
unfriendly shores, and soon fall before the weapons 
of the natives. 

On the last of July occurs the salmon-catching fes- 
tival. For a few days before, across the Lax Elbe, 
six miles from Reykjavik, and near its confluence 
with the sea, a net has lain to keep the fish, return- 
ing after the spawning season, from escaping to the 
ocean. Smaller nets, upon the appointed day, are 



106 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

stretched across the stream. Hundreds of the Iceland- 
ers, in their best attire, on horseback and afoot, 
hasten to the banks of the river. Bishops, high offi- 
cials, the lady and her washerwoman, all are there ; 
their faces beaming with joy, and the most perfect 
social equality and freedom visible. Women of 
rank sit, gajdy clad, in easy and richly-carved side- 
saddles, holding in their right hand the rein, and in 
the left a whip of black leather, prettily variegated 
with the white quills of the eider-duck interwoven 
in the braids. The women in humbler life ride after 
the fashion of men. The gathering companies re- 
cline in groups on rocks, with their lunch of dried 
fish and butter, or skyr, chatting merrily ; while the 
Danes wash down salmon-sandwiches with corn- 
brandy or rum. Then follows the fishing. Into the 
water tliey go, men and women, many up to their 
waists, snatching at the swarming fish, and throwing 
those caught on the shore. There they are counted, 
and thrown into the wooden panniers for transporta- 
tion. Away from a fair lady's hand flies a noble 
salmon at an unsuspecting gentleman, followed by a 
ringing peal of laughter. After enjoying the joke, 
she advances, compliments her victim upon his skill 
as a fisherman, and very politely ofi'ers her hand for 
a cordial shake. Often before three o'clock the same 
afternoon, more than two thousand salmon have been 
caught by the busy hands of the jovial throng ; and 
the cavalcade prepare to move homeward again. 

The annual sheep-gathering has been always one 
of the most exciting events in the routine of Iceland- 
life. 



SHEEP-GATHERING, 107 

In the spring, excepting the few needed at home 
for milk or food, the thousands of sheep are led 
away, in long lines of white and black, to the inte- 
rior, to pick their food upon rocks and in the defiles 
among the mountains. When autumn returns, no- 
tice is given in all the churches, that, upon a desig- 
nated time and place, the farmers will meet to 
organize the sheep-hunting, according to ancient 
custom. In the open air the meetings are held ; the 
king, as he is called, with two assistants appointed, 
and the bands selected. The morning arrives ; and 
the cavalcades move to a centre of the vast wild 
pasture-land, pitch the tents, which are left in 
charge of children taken along for the purpose, and 
away the practised shepherds diverge, among loneli- 
est glens, cavernous depths, and upon dizzy heights, 
to seek the scattered flocks, and guide them back to 
headquarters. Thus the search goes on, till a district 
of many square miles is scoured, when the camp is 
removed to another point, and the search repeated. 

When the broad region of feeding is gone over, 
the flocks are gathered in some valley, and around a 
large enclosure, near which are smaller folds. Then 
the work of separation begins, each owner's mark 
deciding the number to be removed to his fold. 
Sometimes the same mark by two farmers, or unre- 
turning sheep, creates collisions of feeling, if ex- 
pressed only by angry words ; but soon all this is 
over, and social and festal enjoyment follows. 

The whole scene is one of pleasing interest, 
peculiar to Iceland ; and an illustration of scriptural 
teaching is readily drawn from the narrative. 



108 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

So extravagant are the ideas of many, of the cli- 
mate, that we copy a page from a journal of the year 
1810, which gives the daily temperature of weather 
for the month of January, of one of the severest 
winters ever known on the island, when icebergs so 
beleaguered it that the open sea could not be seen 
from the tops of the highest accessible mountains. 

Jan. 1. Ther. 

M° S.S.E. The gale continued the ^hole day, 
blowing hard, with showers of 
rain. 
*' 2. 43^ S.S.E. Blew hard ail day; but cahn towards 

night. 
*' 3. 37° S.S.W. Fine mild day, with rain towards 

night. 
** 4. 36° E.N.E. Mild weather, with a little rain; frost 

at night. 
" 5. 33° E.KE. Fine jnild weather. 
*' 6. 37° E.N.E. Fine day; a few showers, which in 

some places became ice. 
" 7. 34° S.E. Blew hard all day, with rain; and 

dm'ing the night came on a gale of 
wind. 
A heavy gale of wind the whole day. 
Showers of ram; before morning a 
hurricane. 
S.S.E. Heavy squalls of wind and rain all 
day; frost at night. 
Blew hard most of the day; calm at 

night, with rain and frost. 
Mild weather, but frost at night. 
Fine day; the whole face of the coun- 
try like glass. 
Dark day; snow in the evening. 
Fine weather. 
Fine day; snow at night. 





8. 


36° 


S.E. 




9. 


37° 






10. 


35° 


S.S.E 




11. 


33° 


N. 




12. 


36° 


N. 




13. 


32° 


N. 




14. 


28° 


KE, 




15. 


26° 


N. 




16. 


21° 


N. 



TEMPERATURE. 109 

Jan. 17. Ther. 

22° N.E. Fine day; snow at night. 
'* 18. 18° N.E. Fine day, and frost at night; when 

it blew hard with hail, snow, thun- 
der, and lightning: the latter not 
uncommon in the winter. 

19. 27° S.S.W. Heavy fall of snow the whole day. 

20. 24° N.E. Heavy snow the whole day, and very 
dark. 

21. 23° N.E. Fine weather, but heavy snow at 
night. 

22. 28° N. Fine day. 

23. 33° S.E. Mild weather, and a little rain; at 
night blew very hard, with hail and 
rain. 

24. 25° S.W. Blew a very hard gale of wind the 
whole twenty-four hours, with 
showers of hail. 

25. 27^ S.W. Blew hard in the morning, but was 
moderate at night. 

26. 8° N.W. Fine weather; blowing fresh, which 
increased to a gale of wind. 

27. 10^ N. Blew a tremendous heavy gale of 
wind the whole twenty-four hours. 

28. 8° N. The gale still blowing. 

29. 10° N. '' " Sea frozen 
from the land out to the islands 
(about a quarter of a mile), and 
strong enough to bear a horse. 

30. 16^ ISr. Moderate weather. 

31. 16° E.N.E. Blew very hard all day, and towards 

night a gale of wind. 

It will be noticed that the lowest degree reached 
in that fearful winter was 8^ above zero ; while, in 
New England, often the thermometer is as many 
below. 

10 



CHAPTER XV. 

Fairy-Land. — Witchcraft. — Berkserkers. — Superstitions of Domes- 
tic Life. — Signs and Omens. — A Ghostly Saga. 

"T"TT"HAT wonder that superstition, in such a land 
VV as Iceland, should fill the untrodden depths of 
its solitudes with all the unearthly beings that ever 
haunted the human imagination ? that not only the 
young, but the oldest among the scattered popula- 
tion, should look timidly into the darkness of their 
long winter nights, made weird by auroral flashes, to 
see some apparition start from the mountain caves 
and dells ; or listen to hear the sound of spirit 
voices upon the viewless winds, as they come moan- 
ing from the sea, whose arms lie among formidable 
heights ? 

Witchcraft ! where has not this delusion had its 
day ? Even the Pilgrim Fathers of Iceland had to 
fight the witches. Who can marvel at it, when the 
whole country looks as if goblins had been permitted 
to build it upon the ocean-bed, to suit their own un- 
earthly fancies ; reserving dark caverns and winding 
ravines no human foot has threaded, or ever will en- 
ter ? For a while they were permitted to play their 
wild antics. The infatuation became so frightful, 
law made it criminal, and its victims suffered death. 

110 



SUPERSTITIONS. Ill 

Matron and maiden sank under the green waters of 
the pool at Thingvalla. 

The witches, such as they were, at last disappeared, 
as will the revelations, if not all the mysteries, of the 
'' Spiritism " of our own time ; for against the preten- 
sions of both we are cautioned in the completest 
Revelation from heaven, of the mind and heart of 
God. Says the poet-prophet Isaiah, " And when 
they shall say unto you, Seek unto them that have 
familiar spirits, and unto wizards that peep, and that 
mutter: should not a people seek unto their God? 
for the living to the dead ? " 

Inquired a traveller, a few years since, of his 
guide, — 

*' Do you believe in spirits, Zoega ? " 

'' Oh, yes, sir ! and don't you ? I've seen them 
many a time. I once saw a spirit nearly as large as 
the Skjaldbraid. It came up out of the earth di- 
rectly before me where I was travelling, and shook 
its head as if warning me to go back. I was badly 
frightened, and turned my horse around, and went 
back. Then I heard that my best friend was dying. 
When he was dead I married his wife. She's a very 
good woman, sir ; and, if you please, I'll get her to 
make you some coffee when we get back to Reyk- 
javik." 

The dragon and the giant, who guarded the island 
before human footsteps were there, were natural 
creations in the fancy of a pagan people. 

It was the same with the genii of Mount Hecla, 
and the blackbirds armed with beaks of iron, which 
haunted the ravines and caverns of that volcanic 



112 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

peak, forbidding the ascent of any daring in- 
truder. 

The lingering influence of the superstitions of 
age^ was curiously expressed in the address of Chief 
Justice Stephensen to his countrj^men, during Ice- 
land's only revolution, elsewhere noticed. It began, — 

'^ Odin's goddesses, Bellonse, afflict our northern 
countries," referring to the English. 

Another remarkable superstition, which Snorro 
Sturleson ascribes to Odin himself, was that of the 
Berserkers. They were evidently '^ men of weak 
judgment and a depraved imagination," who became 
almost involuntary agents of these apparently magic- 
al influences ; while others were impostors, succeed- 
ing through the superstition and terror of those 
around them. 

They were wrestlers or warriors by profession, 
who were believed by magical means to have hard- 
ened their bodies, so that they could not be injured 
by fire or sword. These men, roused at times by 
their incantations into a sort of frenzy, committed 
every species of brutal violence ; rushed naked into 
battle, and overpowered and slew all who ventured 
to approach them ; till, deserted by the paroxysm, 
their supernatural strength left them, and they im- 
mediately sunk into a state of extreme debihty and 
wretchedness. Many records of this strange super- 
stition occur in the old Icelandic and Norwegian 
writings. It gradually disappeared, together with 
other practices of magic and divination. 

A story from one of the earliest Sagas, translated by 
Sir Walter Scott, is a starthng picture of the old su- 
perstitions of Iceland. 



8 UPERSTITIONS. 113 

A ship from Iceland chanced to winter in a haven 
near Helgafels. Among the passengers was a wo- 
man named Thorgunna, who was reported by the 
sailors to possess garments and household furniture 
of a fashion far surpassing those used in Iceland. 

The yain and covetous Thurida, sister of the pon- 
tiff Snorro, and wife of Thorodd, desiring to behold 
these treasures, visited the stranger, who refused to 
display them. " 

Thorgunna, however, being pressed by Thurida, 
consented to take up her abode at the house of 
Thorodd, saying, that, as she was skilled in all do- 
mestic arts, she trusted in that manner to discharge 
all obligation she might lie under to the family. She 
then reluctantly accompanied her hostess to Froda, 
the home of Thorodd ; where, after the arrival of an 
immense chest and cabinet, she displayed to the curi- 
ous and covetous eyes of Thurida such an embroi- 
dered bed-coverlet, and such a splendid and complete 
set of tapestry hangings and bed-furniture of Eng- 
lish linen, interwoven with silk, as Iceland's matrons 
had never beheld. 

"'' Sell to me," said the envious Thurida, " this fair 
bed-furniture." Thorgunna replied, '' Believe me, I 
will not lie upon straw to feed thy vanity;" an 
answer that effectually stopped the matron's impor- 
tunity. Thorgunna, to whose character subsequent 
events added something of mystical solemnity, is 
described as being a woman of a tall and stately 
appearance, of a dark complexion, and having a pro- 
fusion of black hair. She was advanced in age, 
industrious, devout, grave, silent, and solemn in 

10* 



114 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

domestic society. She had little intercourse with 
Thorodd's household, and especially disliked two of 
its inmates ; the one, Thorer, who, having lost a leg 
in combat, was named Thorer- Widlegr (wooden- 
leg) from the substitute he had adopted; the 
other, Thorer 's wife, Thorgrima, called Galldrakinna 
(wicked sorceress) from her supposed skill in en- 
chantments. Kiarten, the son of Thurida, a boy of 
excellent promise, was the only person of the house- 
hold to whom Thorunna showed much affection ; and 
she was much vexed, at times, when the capricious 
petulance of the child made indifferent return for 
her kindness. 

After this mysterious stranger had dwelt at Froda 
for some time, and while she was laboring in the 
hay-field with other members of the family, a sudden 
cloud from the northern mountain led Thorodd to 
anticipate a heavy shower. He instantly commanded 
the hay-workers to pile up in ricks the quantity 
which each had been engaged in turning to the 
wind. It was afterwards remembered that Thor- 
gunna did not pile up her portion, but left it spread 
on the field. The cloud approached with great ce- 
lerity, and sunk so heavily around the farm that it 
was scarce possible to see beyond the limits of the 
field. A heavy shower next descended ; and so soon 
as the clouds broke away, and the sun shone forth, it 
was observed that it had rained blood. That which 
fell upon the ricks of the other laborers soon dried 
up ; but Avhat Thorgunna had wrought upon re- 
mained wet with gore. The unfortunate Hebridean, 
appalled at the omen, betook herself to her bed, and 



SUPERSTITIONS, 115 

was seized with a mortal illness. On the approach 
of death, she summoned Thorodd, her landlord, and 
intrusted to him the disposition of her property and 
effects. " Let my body," said she, ''be transported 
to Skalholt ; for my mind presages that in that place 
shall be founded the most distinguished church in 
this island. Let my golden ring be given to the 
priests who shall celebrate my obsequies; and do 
thou indemnify thyself for the funeral charges out 
of my remaining effects. To thy wife I bequeath 
my purple mantle, in order that, by this sacrifice to 
her avarice, I may secure the right of disposing of 
the rest of my effects at my own pleasure. But for 
my bed, with its coverings, hangings, and furniture, 
I entreat they may all be consigned to the flames. I 
do not desire this because I envy any one the pos- 
session of these things after my death, but because 
I wish those evils to be avoided which I plainly fore- 
see will happen if my will be altered in the slightest 
particular." Thorodd promised faithfully to exe- 
cute this extraordinary testament in the most pointed 
manner. Accordingly, so soon as Thorgunna was 
dead, her faithful executor prepared a pile for burn- 
ing her splendid bed. Thurida entered, and learned 
with anger and astonishment the purpose of these 
preparations. To the remonstrances of her husband, 
she answered, that the menaces of future danger 
were only caused by Thorgunna's selfish envy, who 
did not wish any one should enjoy her treasures after 
her decease. Then, finding Thorodd insensible to 
argument, she had recourse to caresses and blandish- 
ments, and at length extorted permission to separate 



116 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

from the rest of the bed-furniture the tapestried cur- 
tains and coverlet ; the rest was consigned to the 
flames, in obedience to the will cf the testator. The 
body of Thorgunna, being wrapped in new linen, and 
placed in a coffin, was next to be transported, through 
the precipices and morasses of Iceland, to the distant 
district she had assigned for her place of sepulture. 
A remarkable incident occurred on the way. The 
transporters of the body arrived at evening late, 
weary, and drenched with rain, in a house called 
Nether-Ness, where the niggard hospitality of- the 
proprietor only afforded them house-room, without 
any supply of food or fuel. But, so soon as they 
entered, an unwonted noise was heard in the kitchen 
of the mansion, and the figure of a woman, soon rec- 
ognized to be the deceased Thorgunna, was seen 
busily employed in preparing victuals. Their inhos- 
pitable landlord, being made acquainted with this 
frightful circumstance, readily agreed to supply 
every refreshment that was necessary; on which the 
vision instantly disappeared. The apparition having 
become public, they had no reason to ask twice for 
.hospitality, as they proceeded on their journey, and 
arrived safely at Skalholt, where Thorgunna, with 
all due ceremonies of religion, was deposited quietly 
in the grave. But the consequences of the breach 
of her testament were felt severely at Froda. 

On the night when the conductors of Thorgunna's 
funeral returned to Froda, there appeared, visible to 
all who were present, a meteor, or spectral appear- 
ance resembling a half-moon, which glided around 
the boarded walls of the mansion in an opposite di- 



SUPERSTITIONS, 117 

rection to the course of the sun, and continued to 
perform its revolutions until the domestics retired to 
rest. This apparition was renewed every night dur- 
ing a whole week, and was pronounced by Thorer to 
presage pestilence or mortality. Shortly after a 
herdsman showed signs of mental alienation, and 
gave various indications of having sustained the 
persecutions of evil demons. This man was found 
dead in his bed one morning ; and then commenced 
a scene of ghost-seeing unheard of in the annals of 
superstition. The first victim was Thorer, who had 
presaged the calamity. Going out of doors one 
evenings he was grappled by the spectre of the de- 
ceased shepherd as he attempted to re-enter the 
house. His wooden leg stood him in poor stead in 
such an encounter : he was hurled to the earth, and 
so fearfully beaten that he died in consequence of 
the bruises. Thorer was no sooner dead than his 
ghost associated itself to that of the herdsman, and 
joined him in pursuing and assaulting the inhabit- 
ants of Froda. Meantime an infectious disorder 
spread fast among them, and several of the bonds- 
men died one after the other. Strange portents 
were seen within doors. The meal was displaced 
and mingled, and the dried fish flung about in a most 
alarming manner, without any visible agent. At 
length, while the servants were forming their even- 
ing circle around the fire, a spectre, resembling the 
head of a seal-fish, was seen to emerge out of the 
pavement of the room, bending its round black eyes 
full upon the tapestried bed-curtains of Thorgunna. 
Some of the domestics ventured to strike at this fiff- 



118 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

ure ; but, far from giving way, it erected itself far- 
ther from the door, until Kiarten, who seemed to 
have a natural predominance over these supernatural 
prodigies, seizing a huge forge-hammer, struck the 
seal repeatedly on the head, and compelled it to dis- 
appear, forcing it down into the floor as if he had 
driven a stake into the earth. This prodigy was 
found to intimate a new calamity. Thorodd, the 
master of the family, had some time before set out 
on a voyage to bring home a cargo of dried fish ; 
but, in crossing the river Enna, the skiff was lost, 
and he perished with the servants who attended him. 
A solemn funeral feast was held at Froda, in memory 
of the deceased, when, to the astonishment of the 
guests, the apparition of Thorodd and his followers 
seemed to enter the apartment, dripping with water. 
Yet this vision excited less horror than might have 
been expected ; for the Icelanders, though nominally 
Christians, retained, among other pagan superstitions, 
a belief that the spectres of such drowned persons 
as had been favorably received by the goddess Rana 
were wont to show themselves at their funeral feast. 
They saw, therefore, with some composure, Thorodd 
and his dripping attendants plant themselves by the 
fire, from which all mortal guests retreated to make 
room for them. It was supposed that this apparition 
would not be renewed after the conclusion of the fes- 
tival ; but so far were their hopes disappointed, that, 
so soon as the mourning guests had departed, the 
fires being lighted, Thorodd and his companions 
marched in on one side, drenched, as before, with 
water; on the other entered Thorer, heading all 



S UPERSTITIONS, 119 

those who had died in the pestilence, and who ap- 
peared covered with dust. 

Both parties seized the seats by the fire, while the 
half-frozen and terrified domestics spent the night 
with neither light nor warmth. The same phenome- 
non took place the next night, though the fires had 
been lighted in a separate house ; and at length 
Kiarten was obliged to compound matters with the 
spectres, by kindling a large fire for them in the 
principal apartment, and one for the family and do- 
mestics in a separate hut. This prodigy continued 
during the whole feast of Jol. Other portents also 
happened to appall this devoted family. The conta- 
gious disease again broke forth ; and, when any one 
fell a sacrifice to it, his spectre was sure to join the 
troop of persecutors, who had now almost full pos- 
session of the mansion of Froda. Thorgrima Gall- 
drakinna, wife of Thorer, was one of these victims ; 
and, in short, of thirty servants belonging to the 
household, eighteen died, and five fled for fear of 
the apparitions, so that only seven remained in the 
service of Kiarten. 

Kiarten had now recourse to the advice of his ma- 
ternal Uncle Snorro ; in consequence of whose coun- 
sel, what will perhaps appear surprising to the reader, 
judicial measures were instituted against the spec- 
tres. A Christian priest was, however, associated 
with Thordo Kausa, son of Snorro, and with Kiarten, 
to superintend and sanctify the proceedings. The 
inhabitants were regularly summoned to attend upon 
the inquest, as in a cause between man and man ; 
and the assembly was constituted before the gate of 



120 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

the mansion just as the spectres had assumed their 
wonted station by the fire. Kiarten boldly ventured 
to approach them ; and, snatching a brand from the 
fire, he commanded the tapestry belonging to Thor- 
gunna to be carried out of doors, set fire to it, and 
reduced it to ashes, with all the other ornaments 
of her bed which had been so inconsiderately 
preserved at the request of Thurida. A tribunal 
being then constituted, with the usual legal solemni- 
ties, a charge Avas preferred by Kiarten against 
Thorer with the wooden leg, by Thordo Kausa 
against Thorodd, and by others chosen as accusers 
against the individual spectres present ; accusing 
them of molesting the mansion, and introducing 
death and disease among its inhabitants. All the 
solemn rites of judicial procedure were observed on 
this singular occasion ; evidence was adduced, charges 
given, and the cause formally decided. It does not 
appear that the ghosts put themselves on their 
defence; so that sentence of ejectment was pro- 
nounced against them individually, in due and legal 
form. When Thorer heard the judgment, he arose, 
and, saying, " I have sat while it was lawful for me 
to do so," left the apartment by the door opposite to 
that at which the judicial assembly was constituted. 
Each of the spectres, as they heard their individual 
sentence, left the place, saying something which in- 
dicated their unwillingness to depart, until Thorodd 
himself was solemnly appointed to depart. " We 
have here no longer," said he, " a peaceful dwelling: 
therefore will we remove." Kiarten then entered 
the hall with his followers, and the priest with holy 



SUPERSTITIONS, 121 

water ; and celebration of a solemn mass completed 
the conquest over the goblins, which had been com- 
menced by the power and authority of the Icelandic 

law. 

11 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Mosfell. — The Kide from Reykjavik. — Yankee Doodle. — Beautiful 
Midnight-Scene. — Sontarek, or Son's Loss. 

" /^FF at last ! " e^sclaimed the leader of a com- 
Vy pany, on a June morning, as their horses with 
a bound, and frisk of their bushy tails, started from 
Reykjavik, for Mosfell and the north of Iceland. 

One smiles at the mention of Icelandic roads^ as 
he looks along the narrow, rough, and crooked path- 
way. The very track every spring-thaw washes 
out ; and it can be found again only by the barthur^ 
which are turf-heaps, or blocks of basalt, laid upon 
each other on the top of rocks ; or by herlinger^ 
which are pyramids of stone. These paths are gen- 
erally paved^ but very much as the streets of a city 
would be, if the stones were left as they were 
''dumped" from the cart. The ponies scramble 
over the sharp pavements of lava, where a man 
could scarcely pick his way. In this party was an 
American, who sang with a will "Yankee Doodle," 
ringing out from the general schoolboy jollity. 
Soon the way was pathless, and beneath high bluffs, 
under whose shadow the wild duck was rocking on 
the crisp waves of the fiord ; lava ridges were covered 
with ravens ; a hot spring was smoking at their base ; 

122 



MOSSFELL, 123 

then greets the eye a byre, whose grass-plat was 
sprinkled with golden cups. 

Farther on for a few miles, over a river-traversed* 
waste of bogs, and the spire of the old church of 
Mosfell burst on the sight, with its parsonage near. 

Mosfell, pronounced Mosfetl, is a several-hours' 
ride from the capital, in a north-easterly direction. 
The day waned, and on the turf rose the tents in 
the stillness of an arctic midnight. '' The sky was 
flooded with light, toning the azure to the tenderest 
green. Clouds were transmuted to rose-flakes, and 
mist to a nebulous haze of flame ; some raggedy 
cloud patches, high above the mountain peaks, 
flamed like gold in the furnace, their shadows 
picked out with carmine. A crown of rays, extend- 
ing to the zenith, streamed from behind Esja, which 
Avas thrown into gray shadow. Rock and mountain 
were distinct, as though seen through an opera-glass ; 
every crag and furrow was pencilled with wondrous 
minuteness, each mountain-top cutting against the 
sky with intense precision. Though no direct rays 
of sun touched the earth, yet the reflected light 
from above made every thing even clearer than by 
day, when a slight haze softens outlines, and blends 
colors. 

'' The most perfect stillness reigned, only broken 
by the rippling of the stream over a bank of pebbles, 
before it hushed its murmurs in the bogs." 

Connected with Mosfell, is a beautiful story from 
the Aigla Saga. The hero of it fought King 
Athelstan of Scotland, and slew Bloodaxe of Nor- 
way. 



124 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

SOl^^'ARTOREEK, OE THE SON'S LOSS. 
(A.D. 975.) 

On a day in the summer of 975, five house- 
churls, belonging to Egill Skallagrimsson, rowed to 
a merchant-yessel stationed in the Borgar Fjord, at 
the mouth of the Hyita, or White River. With them 
was Bothvar, a son of Egill. 

The boat started at high tide, which was in the 
evening, and remained alongside of the ship for a 
considerable time, whilst divers articles purchased 
by Egill were handed down the side, and deposited 
in her. 

During the time that the churls Avere thus em- 
ployed, a fierce wind had risen, and now rolled the 
sea before it in tumultuous billows, which, meeting 
the out-current of the river, after turn of tide, 
formed eddies which ingulfed the boat on her 
return, and every soul on board perished. 

Next morning the bodies were washed in the 
fjord ; that of Bothvar by Einar's-ness, the others 
along the southern strand ; and the boat was found 
on the beach under the Smoldng-crags. On the 
same day Egill heard the news. He mounted his 
horse, and rode in search of the corpses ; that of 
his son he found lying uninjured on the shingle, 
laced round with sea-tangles. He lifted it on his 
knee, brushed the sodden hair from the young face, 
placed it in front of his saddle, mounted himself, 
and rode with the body of his son wrapped in his 
arms to Digranes, where stood the cairn of his 
father Skallagrim. Egill fetched a spade, and dug 



SONARTORREK. 125 

into the mound : he was occupied the whole of the 
afternoon at this work ; and in the evening he had 
reached the wooden chamber wherein lay the an- 
cient warrior, busked for the last battle at the 
" Twilight of the Gods," with casque about his brows, 
and sword between his hands. Egill bore the corpse 
of his child into the tomb, and laid it by that of the 
grandfather, then filled up the pit he had dug, and 
restored the cairn to its former condition. After 
this he rode home ; and, without uttering a word, 
went into the chamber where he was wont to sleep, 
bolted the door behind him, and lay down on the 
bed. 

His face was so stern and grave, as he entered the 
house, that no one ventured to address him. 

The old man had gone out in the morning, dressed 
in a scarlet fustian tunic, tight-fitting about the 
body, and fastened with wrought silver bucldes at 
the sides ; he had also worn closely fitting hose. 
On his return, the farm servants noticed that the 
kirtle Was torn down the back, and the hose split, 
by the working of his muscles when he dug into 
the tomb. 

Hours passed, and Egill did not open the door : he 
took neither meat nor drink, and so he lay, both day 
and night. Folk walked softly through the house, 
and the wife listened anxiously on the threshold; 
but the old man neither spoke nor moved. So passed 
a second day, yet no one dared to interfere with the 
master in his grief. 

On the third morning, as the day broke, Asgcrthr, 
the good wife of Egill, ordered one of the frecdmen 
11* 



126 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

to mount his horse, and ride, as swiftly as possible, 
west away to Hjartharholt, and tell her daughter 
Thorgerthr what had taken place, and ask her advice 
as to what course had better be pursued. 

The messenger reached Hjartharholt by noon, and 
related all that had happened. Thereupon Thor- 
gerthr let a horse be saddled for her, ordered two 
servants to ride with her, and before sundown was 
at the house of her parents. 

She dismounted at the door, and stepped quietly 
into the kitchen, where she found her mother. They 
embraced affectionately ; and the daughter, as she 
kissed Asgerthr, felt that her cheeks were wet with 
tears. 

^'My dear," said the housewife, "tell me whether 
you have eaten your supper ; for, if not, I will order 
food to be brought you immediately." 

"Mother mine ! " answered Thorgerthr, in a voice 

loud enough to be heard throughout the house, " I 

have tasted nothing, neither do I intend touching 

)od till I reach the halls of Freyja. I can do 

othing better than follow my father's example, 

. nd accompany him and my brother on the long last 

ourney." 

Then she stepped to the threshold, and called, 

Father, father ! open the door. I wish that you 

nd I should travel the same road together." 

All within was silent for a space ; but presently she 
leard the old man's step coming to the door, the bolt 
i^as drawn back, and Egill, pale and haggard, stood 
lefore her. She passed him without saying a word ; 
hen he again bolted the door, and returned with a 



SONARTORREK, 127 

moan to his bed, but kept his eye fixed inquiringly 
on his daughter's countenance. 

She lay down in another bed which was in the 
room, saying, '' May we soon sup with the gods, 
father!" 

Egill answered, '' You act rightly, daughter, iu 
choosing to follow your aged father. Great love do 
you show in thus joining your lot with mine. Who 
could think that I should care to live, bowed down 
beneath the burden of my great and bitter sorrow ? " 

Then both for a while were silent. 

There was a small circular opening in the wall 
opposite the old man's couch, and through it the 
evening ^n sent an orange spot upon the floor. 

Not a sound in the room but the breathing of 
father and daughter; yet, from without, sounds of 
life were borne in upon the summer air. The river, 
at no great distance, rushed monotonously, yet with 
a pleasant murmur, over its pebbly floor ; far off, up 
the mountain side, a flock of sheep were being driven 
to fold, and the barking of the dogs was distinctly 
audible in the little chamber; presently a flock of 
swans passed, with their strange musical scream ; 
and, now and then, the whinny of a horse reached 
the ears of those who had laid themselves down 
to die. 

Suddenly Egill spoke : " Daughter, I hear you 
munching something." 

''So I am, father. It is sol" (Alga saccharina), 
she replied. '' I think that it will do me harm : with- 
out something of the kind, I might live too long." 

" Does it really shorten life ? " asked Egill. 



128 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

" Oh, that it does ! Will you have some ? " 

'' I see no reason against it," answered he. 

Then she rose from the bed, stepped over to him, 
and gave him some of the sea-weed. 

As the plant is saturated with brine, both she and 
her father soon became exceedingly thirsty. They 
lay still, however, for some time, without either 
speaking. The sweet air of summer blew in at the 
little window, fresh as from the gates of Paradise. 
Without, the churls were making hay ; and occasion- 
ally a few grass-blades were borne into the room by 
the draught. One of the thralls whetted his sickle ; 
a girl at the farther extremity of the tun began 
a song. Within, the golden spot reached Egill's 
bed-board, and began to slide up it. A mouse stole 
from behind a chest, and stood on the floor, looking 
round with bright, beady eyes, then darted under 
one of the beds. 

The thirst of the daughter became at last so intol- 
erable, that she rose, saying that she must taste one 
drop of water. Her father raised no objection: so 
she stepped to the door, opened it, and called for 
water. Her mother came up, and, as the girl bent to 
kiss her, she whispered a word into Asgerthr's ear. 
Directly a large, silver-mounted drinking-horn was 
brought. Thorgerthr closed the door again, and 
bolted it, took a slender draught, and offered the 
horn to her father. 

'' Certainly," said he : '' that weed has parched my 
throat with thirst." So he lifted the horn with both 
hands, and took a long pull. 

" Father," said Thorgerthr, '' we have both been 



SONG OF EGILL, 129 

deceived; we have been drinking milk, not water." 
As she spoke, the old man clinched his teeth on the 
horn, and tore a great shred from it ; then flung the 
vessel wrathfuUy to the ground. 

''What is to be done now, father?" asked the 
daughter. " This our scheme has broken down at a 
very early stage, and we can no longer think of con- 
tinuing it. I have a better plan to propose. Let us 
hve sufficiently long for you to compose a beautiful 
elegy on your son Bothvar, and for me to carve it in 
runes on oaken staves ; after which we can die, if the 
fancy takes us. I do not think my brother Thor- 
stein quite the man to make much of a poem on our 
poor Bothvar; and it would be a disgrace to the 
family that the gallant boy should remain uncom- 
memorated in song. As soon as your elegy is com- 
plete, we will hold a funeral banquet, at which you 
shall recite it. Now, what think you of my plan, 
dear father ? " 

Egill replied that the spirit of song was gone from 
him, but that he would try his best. Then he sat up 
in his bed, and chanted the following lay ; composing 
at first with difficulty, till the fire of poetry kindled 
in his soul as brightly as it had burned in the days 
of youth ; and the spot of flame from the setting 
sun, which had been running up the wall, rested on 
and glorified the old man's inspired countenance. 
His voice, faltering at first, waxed strong and clear, 
so that it filled the house. This free translation, by 
Baring-Gould, was his song : — 



130 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

** I tune my tongue but feebly 
To stir the air with song ; 
From heavy heart but hardly 
I drag the load of wrong. 

From frozen brair but thinly 
The soft, sweet metres thaw ; 

From mines of grief but dully 
The golden dole I draw. 

My race to death is drawing, 
As drop the forest-leaves ; 
As in the southland garners 
Are gathered golden sheaves. 

Sad is the heart that singeth; 

My sorrows rise and swell ; 
The lips but feebly mutter ^ 

The bitter tale they tell. 

A gap in heart's affections ; 

For Where's my bonny hoj% 
The cruel sea hath torn in, 

And swept away all joy. 

E,au bitterly has tried me : 
For friend on friend I grieve ; 

And now cold ocean shivers 
The bright chain I did weave. 

The bright chain of my weaving ! 

Oh, vengeance ! would 'twere mine I 
But how can these old sinews 

Resist the ruthless brine ? 

Of much, too much, despoiled, 
An old man, sitting lone, 

With trembling fingers counting 
The gaps in dear old home. 



SONG OF EGILL. 131 

Bereaved of his last treasure, 

The target of his race, 
Borne by the valkyrie 

Up to the Blissful Place. 

Oh ! would my boy had oldened, 

To wield the bright blue blade ; 
And Odin's hand extended 

On his fair head been laid ! 

To father he — e'er faithful — 

Held when all else were cold ; 
The son's warm pulses quivered 

Through these thews waxing old. 

Now through the long night-watches 

I restlessly am tossed : 
I cannot sleep for thinking 

Of all that I have lost. 

Odin ! why hast thou riven 

The green bough from its stem, 
And ta'en it up to root it 

In homes of gods and men ? 

Spear-shaker ! our old friendship 

I rend for aye away ; 
I trust thee now no longer, 

Fell leader of the fray ! 

Upon the grassy headland. 

Where father, children, sleep, 
Above the constant throbbing 

Of the ne'er quiet deep, — « 

Stands Death, calmly waiting : 

What ! can I dread to die ? 
Nay : gladly, oh ! how gladly, 

Towards her arms I fly ! " 



132 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Now, it fell out, tliat, as Egill composed, his grief 
abated ; and, when the Lament was complete, he rose 
from his bed, and, entering the hall, seated himself on 
the high stool of honor. There all the house-folk 
gathered around him, and his wife and daughter sat 
at his feet. When a silence was made, he lifted his 
A^oice, and sang the poem ; and this Lament he named 
the Sonartorrek. Afterwards Egill waked his son 
in the ancient manner with much feasting ; and 
Thorgerthr returned home laden with rich presents 
her father had bestowed upon her. 

When Egill left King Athelstan, he was presented 
with two chests of silver, which the patriarchal free- 
booter hid ; killing the slaves who had helped him 
bury them, practically applying the proverb, '^ Dead 
men tell no tales," For aught anybody knows, the 
treasure lies to this day beneath some of the bogs, 
near which Anglo-Sa^^on coins have been found. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Grettir, the Hero and Outlaw of Iceland. — His Birthplace. — On the 
Sea. — The Eed Eovers. 

IT is suminer-time ; and the green lawn of the an- 
cient tun of Bijarg, with its red-gabled house 
of wood and turf, is covered with buttercups. Be- 
fore it flows a rapid stream ; beyond which, on the 
north, rise between it and the middle frith rugged 
heights and white-capped jokuUs ; southward, savage 
deserts and summits again spread away to the hori- 
zon. Here, at the close of the tenth century, was 
born Grettir, the famous hero and outlaw of Iceland. 
Little is known of his eventful life in this wild home 
of his boyhood, excepting that from it he went forth 
upon his tragical exploits and lonely wanderings. 
He mounted here his steed for yonder gloomy hills, 
to hunt and slay the murderer of Atli, his brother. 
He often sought the shore of the sounding sea, and 
gazed wonderingly upon the blue expanse, which he 
knew broke upon the beach of far-off fatherland. The 
day-dream of that unseen realm became a purpose 
to look upon its mountains and valleys. Watching 
for the coveted opportunity, he at last found a vessel 
bound for Norway. Terms were soon made with the 
master of the galley; and Grettir, Avith wildest joy, 

12 133 



134 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

saw his native summits sink behind the " wide, wide 
sea." The daring adventures of the young sea- 
rover are recorded at length in the Sagas. In the 
sketches of his career, there are imaginary scenes, 
growing out of the prevailing superstitions, or a 
desire to conceal by fiction unpleasant facts from the 
public. Among these myths, are manifestly some 
of the unearthly incidents in the " Vampyre's 
Grave." But the annals of his lawless life are 
mainly real history. 

The stirring tales that follow are from the Gretla 
Saga. 

THE EED KOYERS. 
(A.D. 1012.)- 

One morning, after a night of storm on the coast of 
Norway, the servants ran into the hall of a wealthy 
bonder, named Thorfin, to inform him, that, during 
the night, a ship had been wrecked off the coast, and 
that the crew and passengers were congregated on a 
neighboring sandy holm, signalling for help. Up 
started the bonder, and hastened to the strand : he 
ran out a large punt from his boat-house, and, jump- 
ing in with his thralls, rowed lustily to the rescue. 
The shipwrecked peoj)le belonged to a merchant- 
vessel from Iceland, which had been driven among 
the breakers during the darkness, and had gone to 
pieces, yet not before a portion of the lading had 
been brought ashore. 

Among the shivering beings gathered on the sand 
strip was Grettir, the son of an Icelandic chief who 
lived at Bjarg in the middle frith ; he was then 



GRETTIR. 135 

a young man, tall and muscular, with large blue 
eyes, bushy hair, and a freckled face. 

Thorfin received the half-frozen wretches on board 
his boat, and rowed them to the mainland, after 
which he returned to the holm, and brought off the 
wares. In the mean time, the good housewife had 
been lighting fires, preparing beds, routing out dry 
suits, and making hot ale, read}^ for the sufferers ; 
and right kindly they were treated, you may be sure. 

Well, the chapmen stayed a week at the farm, 
whilst their goods were being dried, and till the 
women of the party were sufficiently recovered from 
cold and exposure, to continue their journey to Dron- 
theim, whither the whole party were bound; after 
which they left Thorfin, with many thanks for his 
courtesy and kindness. Grettir, however, remained, 
not at the request of the bonder, who did not much 
like him, but to suit his own convenience. Indeed, 
he staid somewhat longer than Thorfin cared to 
keep him, considering what a fellow Grettir was, 
never joining in conversation, unwilling to lend a 
helping hand in any work, a great stay-at-home, 
crouching over the fire all day, and, withal, eating 
voraciously. Thorfin was much out of doors; and, 
as he was a sociable man, he often requested Grettir 
to accompany him, either into the forest, or about 
his farm, but could get no further answer than an 
impatient ^shake of the head, and a grunt. Now, tho 
bonder was a fellow with a right merry heart, and a 
kind one, and one, too, that loved seeing all around 
cheerful. With such a disposition, it is no wonder 
that tlie morose and indolent Grettir found no favor. 



136 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Yule drew nigh, and Thorfin busked him to depart, 
with a number of his freedmen, to keep high festival 
at one of his farms, distant a good day's journey. 
His wife was unable to accompany him, as the eldest 
daughter was ill, and wanted careful nursing ; and 
Grettir was not invited, as his suUenness would have 
acted as a damper to the joviality of the banquet. 

The farmer started for his farm in Slysfjord some 
days before Yule, accompanied by his thirty freed- 
men, expecting to meet a goodly throng of guests, 
whom he had invited from all quarters. 

Norway had for some time been in a disordered 
condition, from the mischief caused by numerous 
Berserkers and corsah's, who roved over the country, 
challenging bonders to mortal combat for their 
homes, their wives, and families. If a bonder de- 
clined to fight, as the law stood, his all Avas forfeited 
to the challenger ; and if he fought, and was worsted, 
he lost his life as well. With the advice of Thorfin, 
Earl Erik Hakon's son put down these holm-bouts, 
and outlawed those whose custom it had been to 
make a business of them, going round the country, 
and riding rough-shod over the peaceful bonders.. 

Among the worst of these, were two brothers, 
well known for their wickedness, Thorir wi' the 
Paunch, and Bad Ogmund. Thej^ were said to be 
stronger built than most, and to care for no man 
under the sun. They robbed wherever they went, 
burned farms over the heads of the sleeping inmates, 
and with the points of their spears drove the shrieking 
wretches back into the flames. When these pirates 
wrought themselves up into their Berserker rages, 



|1 i'iiflfili iii'|i'n'iiii|ii;'|H""i''ii!'"i"i'tliitilliiii(.iii 




GRETTIR. 137 

they howled like wolves, foamed at the month, their 
strength was increased to that of Trolls, and they 
rushed about, demon-possessed, murdering and de- 
stroying every living being that came in their way. 
Thorfin had been the prime instigator of their out- 
lawry through the length and breadth of Norway ; 
and, as may well be conjectured, the brothers bore 
him no good- will, and only waited for an opportunity 
of wreaking their vengeance upon him. 

The eve of Yule was bright and sunny ; and the 
sick girl was so far recovered as to walk out and take 
the air, leaning on her mother's arm. 

Grettir spent the whole day out of doors, in none 
of the sweetest of tempers, at being excluded from 
the festivities of the season, and left to keep house 
Avith the women and eight dunderheaded churls. 
He fed his discontent by sitting on a headland, 
watching the boats glide past, as parties went to 
convivial gatherings at the houses of their friends. 
The deep blue sea was speckled with white sails, as 
though countless gulls were playing on the waters. 
Now a stately dragon-ship rolled past, her fearful 
carved head glittering with gold and color, her 
sails spread like wings before the breeze, and her 
banks of oars flashing in the sun, then dipping into 
the sea ; now a wherry rowed by, laden with cakes 
and ale, and the boatmen's song rang merrily 
through the crisp air. 

The day began to draw in ; but still the red sparks 
from little vessels, fleeting by in the dusk, showed 
that all the guests had not j^et reached their destina- 
tion. 

13* 



138 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

Grettir was on the point of returning to the farm, 
when the strange proceedings of a craft at no great 
distance attracted his attention. He noticed that 
she stole along in the shadows of the islets, and 
darted with velocity across the open-water straits 
between them ; she hugged the shore wherever she 
could, moved in a zigzag course, and suddenly came 
flying with quick oar-sweeps towards the bay which 
Grettir was overlooking. In the twilight he could 
make out thus much of her, that she floated low in 
the water, that she was built for speed, and that her 
sides were hung with shields. As she stranded, the 
rowers jumped on the beach. Grettir counted them, 
and found that they were twelve, armed men too ! 
They broke into Thorfin's boat-house, and dragged 
forth his great punt, in which thirty men were wont 
to sit, pushed it out into deep water, and drew their 
own boat under cover, and pulled her up on the 
rollers. 

Mischief was a-brewing, that was plain as a pike- 
staff ! So Grettir descended the hill, and sauntered 
up to the band, with his hands in his pockets, kick- 
ing the pebbles before him, and humming a tune 
with the utmost nonchalance. '' May I ask who is 
the leader of this party ? " quoth he. 

'^ Ah, ah ! I'm the man," responded as ill-looking 
a fellow as Nature could well turn out of her labora- 
tory. '' Why, I am Thorir wi' the Paunch, and 
here's my brother Ogmund with all his rascals. I 
reckon the Bonder Thorfin knows our names. Don't 
you think so, brother ? And we have a little ac- 
count to settle with him. Pray, is he at home ? " 



GRETTIR. 139 

" Upon my word, you are lucky fellows," spoke 
Grettir ; " coming here in the very nick of time, if 
you are the men I take you for. The bonder is 
from home, with all his freedmen, and won't be 
back till after Yule ; his wife and daughter, how- 
ever, are at the farm. Now's your time, if you have 
old scores to wipe off; for there is every thing you 
can possibly want at the house, — silver, good clothes, 
ale, and provisions, in the greatest profusion." 

Thorir held his tongue whilst Grettir talked : 
afterwards he turned to his brother Ogmund, and 
said, '^ This is just what I expected, is it not ? Now 
we can serve Thorfin out in thorough earnest for 
having made us outlaws. What a chatterbox this 
fellow is ! There's no need of pumping to get any 
thing one wants to know out of him." 

'' Every man is master of his own tongiie," re- 
torted Grettir. '' Now come along with ine, and I 
will do the best I can for you." 

The rovers thanked him, arid, accepted the invita- 
tion : so Grettir, taking Thorir by the hand, led 
him towards the farm, talking the whole waj" as 
hard as his tongue could wag. The housewife hap- 
pened at the moment to be in the hall, putting up the 
hangings, and preparing for the Yule banquet ; and, 
hearing Grettir speaking with much volubility, she 
stood still in astonishment, and asked whom he was 
greeting so cordially. 

'^ It is quite the correct thing to receive guests 
well ; is it not, mother ? " asked Grettir ; '' and here 
are Thorir o' the Paunch, Bad Ogmund, and ten 
others, who have kindly come to join us in our Yule 



140 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

carousal ; which is delightful, for without them our 
party would have been wofully scanty." 

'' O Grettir ! what have j'ou done ! " cried the 
poor woman. "• You have brought hither the great- 
est rufSans in Norway. 1 would have given any 
thing that they had never come. This is the way 
in which you return the good Thorfin has done 
you, in rescuing you from shipwreck, in taking you 
into his house, and caring for you through the winter, 
as though you were one of his freedmen ; and when 
you had not a farthing in your pocket to bless your- 
self withal ! " 

" Stop this abuse ! " growled the young man. 
" There's time enough for that sort of thing another 
day. Now come, and take off the wet clothes from 
the guests." 

" You need not scream before you are hurt, my 
good woman," quoth Thorir: "you will want all 
your words for to-morrow, when I shall carry you and 
your daughter away with me, and you will have to 
say good-by to home for many a day. What think 
you of that?" 

" Capital ! " roared Grettir. " That is capital." 

On hearing this, the housewife and her daughter 
fled to the women's apartment, crying, and wringing 
their hands with despair. 

'^ Well," said Grettir, " as the women won't attend 
on you, I suppose that I must ; so be good enough to 
hand me over any thing you want to have dried, such 
as your Avet clothes and weapons." 

" You're different from every one else in the house," 
spoke Thorir. " I almost tliink that you would 
make a boon companion." 



GRETTIR. 141 

" As you please," answered the young man. 
" Only, I tell you I don't behave like this to all 
folk." 

Then the freebooters gave him up their weapons : 
he wiped the salt water from them, and laid them 
aside in a warm, dry spot. Next he removed their 
wet garments, and brought them dry suits, which he 
routed out of the clothes-chests belonging to Thor- 
lin and his freedmen. 

By this time it was quite night. Grettir brought 
in logs, raked up the fire, and made a noble blaze. 

"Now, my men," quoth he, "sit at table, and 
drink ; for, i' faith, you must be thirsty after all the 
rowing you have done in the day." 

"We are ready," said they; " only we don't know 
where to find the cellars." 

" Will you let me fetch ale for you, or will you 
help yourselves ? " 

" Oh, go after it yourself, by all means ! " answered 
they. 

So Grettir brought the strongest ale, and poured 
out for them. The fellows were very tired, and 
drank copiously. Grettir stinted them neither in 
meat nor in drink ; and at last he sat down at the 
end of the table, and recited merry Sagas, which riv- 
eted their attention, and delighted them amazingly. 
First he told the history of Hromund Greipsson, how 
he broke open the tomb of old Viking Thrain, and 
descended into it ; how he wrestled with the demon- 
possessed corpse in its vault, and bore off its sword 
like sunbeam ; and how, in after years, Hromund 
fought on the ice, and received fourteen wounds, lost 



142 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

his eight brothers, and, worst of all, saw his bright- 
flashing sword sink through an ice-floe. After that, 
Grettir told the tale of An the Bow-brandisher, who 
would not turn his bow to enter the king's hall, but 
walked forward with it, though the horns stuck in 
the door-posts ; and the bow bent nearly double, but 
did not break. 

Not one of the house-churls showed his face in the 
hall that evening : they slunk about the farm fright- 
ened and trembling. 

Quoth Thorir, " I'll tell you what, comrades ! 
This lad is one of the best fellows I've clapped eyes 
on. I don't think we could meet in a hurry with 
another who would wait on us so well. What shall 
we give him ? Come, man, ask a boon of us ! " 
Grettir answered, " I demand only one thing, — that, 
if we are as great allies in the morning as we seem 
to be to-night, I may become one of your gang : even 
if I be weaker than the rest of you, be assured I 
will not hang back in the day of trial." 

The pirates were delighted with this proposal, and 
wanted to clinch brotherhood at once; but Grettir 
objected. '' No, no ! " said he. " When liquor is in, 
wits leak out : you may come to a different mind in 
the morning when you are sober, and regret what 
you have done. There is no need of hurry ; and, as 
we are none of us famous for our discretion, a little 
thinking the matter over first is advisable." 

They all protested that they would not change 
their opinion of him in the morning. Grettir, how- 
ever, remained firm in his decision. 

The young man saw now that they were getting 



GRETTIR. 143 

rather tipsy, so lie suggested that it was time for 
bed. '' Yet first," said he, "you will, I know, like to 
run your eyes over Thorfin's storehouse." 

" That we shall ! " exclaimed Thorir, jumping up. 
" Come along, my lads, follow me ! " 

Grettir took a lamp, and led the way. 

The storehouse was separate from the house, and 
stood at right angles to it. It was a strongly built 
place, made of large logs mortised firmly together : 
the door was also remarkably massive, and was fur- 
nished with a strong fastening. Adjoining this 
building was a lean-to office, divided off from the 
storehouse by a partition of planks. A flight of steps 
led to the office-door, for the house stood on a breast- 
high stone foundation. 

The sharp, frosty air of night, striking on the faces 
of the revellers, increased their intoxication ; and 
they became very disorderly, running against each 
other, uttering discordant whoops, and jolting Gret- 
tir's arm, so that he could with difficulty prevent the 
lamp from being knocked from his hand and extin- 
guished. 

Drawing back the bolt, he flung the door open, and 
showed the twelve men into the house. Then, sling- 
ing the lamp to a hook in one of the rafters, he let 
the rovers scramble for the prizes. The store was 
filled with various household goods, piles of costly 
garments, enamelled baldrics, carved and silver- 
mounted drinking-horns, some choice bracelets, and 
several bags, each containing a hundred ounces of 
pure silver. The drunken men were soon engaged 
in violent altercation over the spoil, as several coveted 



144 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

the same articles. In the midst of the hubbub, Gret- 
tir stepped outside, closed the door, and bolted it. 
The freebooters did not notice his escape, as he had 
left the lamp burning, and they supposed that the 
door had swung to in the wind : they were, more- 
over, too intent on selecting their shares of the booty 
to think of any thing else. 

Grettir flew across the homestead to the farm-door, 
and cried loudly for the housewife ; but she was 
silent, as she very naturally mistrusted his intentions, 
and had besides secreted herself, from fear of the 
pirates. 

" Come, answer ! " shouted Grettir : "I have cap- 
tured the whole twelve, and all that is wanting is a 
supply of weapons. Call up the thralls, and arm 
them ; quick! there is not a moment to be lost." 

'' There are weapons enough here," answered the 
poor woman, emerging from her hiding-place. '' But, 
Grettir, I have no faith in you." 

'' Faith or no faith," exclaimed Grettir, '' I must 
have weapons at once. Where are the churls ? Here, 
Kolbein! Svein! Gamli! Hrolf ! Confound the ras- 
cals ! where have they skulked to ? " 

"It will be a mercy of God if any thing can be 
done ! " said the housewife ; '' for we are in a sorry 
plight, to be sure. Now, look here. Over Thorfin's 
bed hangs an enormous barbed spear. You- will find 
there also helmet and cuirass, also a beautiful cutlass. 
No lack of weapons, if you have only the pluck to 
use them." 

Grettir seized the casque and spear, girded on the 
sword, and dashed into the yard, begging the woman 



GRETTIR. 145 



to send the churls after him. She called the eight 
men, and bade them arm at once, and follow. Four 
of them obeyed, rushing to the weapons, and 
scrambling for them, but the other four ran clean 
away. 

I must tell you, that in the mean time the Berser- 
kers had rather wondered at Grettir's disappearance, 
and from wondering had fallen to suspecting that all 
was not right. Then they sprang to the door, tried 
it,* and found it locked from without* It was too 
massive for them to break open : so they tore down 
the partition of boards between the store and the 
office. The Berserker rage came on them, and they 
ground their teeth, frothed at the mouth, and burst 
forth with the howl of demoniacs through the office- 
door, upon the landing at the head of the steps, just 
as Grettir came to the foot. 

Thorir and Ogmund were together. In the fitful 
gleams of the moon, they seemed like fiends, as they 
scrambled forth armed with splinters of deal, their 
eyes glaring with frenzy, and great foam-flakes be- 
spattering their breasts, and dropping on the atones 
at their feet. The brothers plunged down the nar- 
row stair with a yell which rang through the still, 
snow-clad forest for miles. Grettir planted the 
spear in the ground, and caught Thorir on its point. 
The sharp double-edged blade, three feet in length, 
sliced into him, and came out beneiith his shoulders, 
then tore into Ogmund's breast a span deep. The 
yew shaft bent like a bow, and flipped from the 
ground the stone against which the butt had been 
planted. The wretched men crashed to the bottom 

13 



146 THE ISLAND OF FTRE^ 

of the stair, tried to rise, staggered, and fell again. 
Grettir planted his feet on them, and wrenched the 
blade from their wounds, drew the- cutlass, and 
smote down another rover as he broke through the 
door. Other Berserkers poured out ; and Grettir 
drove at them with spear, or heaved at them with 
sword : he slew another as the churls came up. 
They Avere late^ for they had been squabbling over 
the weapons ; and now that they were come they 
were nearly useless, as they only made onslaughts 
when the backs of the robbers were towards them, 
but, the moment that the vikings turned on them, 
they bounded away, and skulked behind the walls. 

The pirates showed desperate fight, armed with 
chips of plank, or sticks pulled from some pine- 
fagots which lay in the homestead. They Avarded off 
Grettir's blows, and fled from corner to corner, pur- 
sued by their indefatigable foe. In the wildness and 
agony of despair, they could not find the gate, but 
bounded over the wall of the yard, and ran towards 
the boat-house with Grettir at their heels. They 
plunged in, and possessed themselves of the oars ; 
Qrettir followed into the gloom, and smote right and 
left.^. The bewildered wretches climbed into the 
boat : ^,ome strove to push her into the water, whilst 
others battled in the darkness with their unseen ene- 
my; but some pulled one way, some another, and 
the blows from the oars fell on friend as well as foe, 
so tha]^ the panic became more complete. 

lu "the mean time the thralls had quietlj^ returned 
to the, farm, quite satisfied when they saw the robbers 
take to their heels ; and no entreaties of the house- 



GRETTIR. 147 

wife could induce them to follow Grettir ; the four 
cliurls had had quite enough of fighting ; true, they 
had killed no one, but then they had seen some men 
killed. Grettir sprang into the boat, and stepped 
from bench to bench, driving aft the terrified vikings. 
As the boat-house was open to the air on the side 
which faced the sea, whilst the farther end was 
closed with a door, Grettir was in shadow, whilst the 
black figures of the rovers cut sharply against the 
moonlight, so that he could see where to strike, 
whilst his own body was undistinguishable. 

One stroke from an oar reached him on the shoul- 
der, and for the moment paralyzed his left arm. He 
killed two more vikings, and then the remaining four 
burst forth, and, separating into pairs, fled in differ- 
ent directions. Grettir followed the couple which 
was nearest, and tracked them to a neighboring farm, 
where they dashed into a granary, and hid among the 
straw. Unfortunately for them, most of the wheat 
had been threshed out, so that only a few bundles re- 
mained. Grettir shut and bolted the door behind 
him, then chased the poor wretches like rats from 
corner to corner, till he had cut them both down. 
Then he pulled the corpses to the door, and cast them 
outside. 

In the mean while the sky had become overcast 
with a thick snow-fog which rolled up from the sea ; 
so that Grettir, on coming out, saw that it would be 
hopeless attempting to pursue the two remaining 
Berserkers. Besides, his arm pained him, his strength 
was failing him, and there stole over him an over- 
powering sense of weariness after his protracted 



148 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

exertions. The housewife had placed a lamp in the 
window of a loft ; so that Grettir, seeing the light, 
was able to find his way back through the snow- 
storm without difficulty. When he came to the door, 
she met him, and, extending both her hands, gave 
him a cordial welcome. '' You have indeed shown 
great valor ! *' quoth she : " you have saved me and 
my household from insult and ruin. To you, and 
you alone, are we indebted." 

'' I am not much altered from what I was last 
evening : yet you now sing quite a different strain ; 
then you abused me most grossly," grumbled the 
young man. 

" Ah ! but we little knew your metal then. Come, 
be a welcome guest within, and tarry till my hus- 
band returns. Thanks are all that I can render you ; 
but be assured Thorfin will not rest content till he 
has rewarded this deed of yours munificently." 

Grettir replied that he cared little for a reward, 
but that he gladly availed himself of her invitation. 
" And now I hope you may sleep without much fear 
of Berserkers." Grettir drank little, but lay down 
fully armed for a sound and well-earned sleep. 

On the following morning, as soon as day broke, a 
party was formed to search for the two remaining 
vikings who had escaped from Grettir in the dark- 
ness. The snow had fallen so thickly during the 
night that the ground was covered, and all traces 
were obliterated, so that the search proved ineffec- 
tual till dusk, when the men were discovered under 
a rock, dead from cold and loss of blood. The bod- 
ies were removed to the shore, and buried under a 



GRETTIR, 149 

cairn between tides.* Then all returned to the farm 
in high glee ; and Grettir chanted the following 
verse : — 

** Twelve war-flame branches are buried 
Low by the loud resounding; 
Unasked, sent I them singly 
To speedy death. O ye gold-sallous, 
Well-born ! bear me all witness ! 
What is wrought mightier ? tell me, 
If ye wot, — this being little." 

" There are not many men like yon, certainly," 
answered the lady ; '' at all events, in this genera- 
tion." 

Then she seated him on the high stool of honor, 
and treated him with every distinction. 

So passed the time until the return of the bonder. 

It was not till the Yule festivities were well over, 
that Thorfin busked him for return ; then, after hav- 
ing dismissed his guests with presents, he and his 
freedmen started for home, before news had reached 
him of what had taken place during his absence. 
The first startling circumstance was the appearance 
of his great punt, stranded. Thorfin bade his men 
row to land with all speed, as he suspected that this 
could not be the result of accident. The bonder 
was the first, in his anxiety, to leap ashore, and run 
to the boat-house. There he saw a ship hauled up 
on the rollers ; and, at the second glance, he knew it 
to be that of the vikings. His cry of dismay 

* Burial between tides was looked upon as disgrace, "being a con- 
trast with that on consecrated ground. 
13* 



150 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

brought the rest around him : he pointed to the ves- 
sel, and said, " The Red-rovers have made an attack 
on my farm. I would give house and lands that 
they had never come." 

'' What cause is there for fearing that a hostile 
visit has been paid? " asked some of his men. 

'^ I know whose boat this is," answered the farmer. 
" It belongs to Thorir o' the Paunch, and Bad Og- 
mund, the two wickedest and most brutal of all the 
Norwegian pirates. No effectual resistance can have 
been offered, I fear, as the farm was deserted by all 
fighting men, except, perhaps, that Icelander ; but I 
put no trust in him whatsoever." 

The freedmen now consulted with the farmer as to 
what steps should be taken, supposing that the house 
was occupied by pirates. 

All this Avhile Grettir was at home, and he was to 
blame for leaving Thorfin in uncertainty and alarm. 
He had seen the master's boat round the headland, 
and enter the bay ; but he would neither go himself 
to meet him on the strand, nor suffer the thralls to 
do so. 

'' I do not care even though the bonder be a little 
distracted at what he sees," said the young man. 

" Have you any objection to my going to the 
shore ? " asked the wife. 

'' None in the least : you are mistress of your own 
actions." 

Then she, with her daughter, ran to meet her 
husband, and greeted him with a bright smile on her 
face. He was delighted at seeing her, and said, kiss- 
ing her forehead, '' God be praised, sweetheart, that 



GRETTIR. ' 151 

you and my child are safe and sound ! But tell me 
how matters have stood during my absence ; for, from 
the look of affairs, I do not think that you can have 
been left quite undisturbed." 

"No more have we," she replied. "We have 
been in grievous danger of loss and dishonor ; but 
the shipwrecked man, whom you have sheltered, has 
been our helper and guardian." 

Thorfin said, " Sit by me on this rock, and tell me 
of what has taken place." 

Then they took each other's hands, and sat to- 
gether on a stone ; the freedmen gathered around ; 
and she told plainly and truthfully the story of 
the rovers, and Grettir's gallant conduct. When 
she spoke of the manner in which the young Ice- 
lander had decoyed them into the storehouse, and 
fastened them in, all the freedmen raised a shout of 
joy ; and, when her tale was ended, their exultant 
cries rang so loud that Grettir heard them in the 
farmhouse. 

Thorfin spoke no word to interrupt the thread of 
his wife's recital, but the workings of his heart were 
clearly legible on his countenance. After she had 
ceased, he sat still, wrapped in thought; no one 
ventured to disturb him. Presently he looked up, and 
said, " The old saying j^i'oves to be true, ' Despair 
of no man.' Where is Grettir ? " 

" At home," answered the wife. " He is a strange 
man, and would not come to meet you." 

" Then let me go to him," said the farmer, rising, 
and walking towards the house, followed by his 
men. 



152 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

When he saw Grettir, he sprang to him, and 
thanked him in the fairest words for the heroism he 
had displayed. 

'' This I say to you," spoke Thorfin, '' which few 
would say to their dearest friends, that I hope one 
day you may need support, so as to prove how 
earnestly and joyfully I will strain every nerve to 
assist you ; for, assuredly, I never can repay you for 
what you have done in my behalf, till you are 
brought into great straits j^ourself. Abide with me 
as long as you list, and you shall be held in highest 
esteem by me and my followers." 

Grettir thanked him heartily, and spent the rest 
of the winter at his house. The story of his exploit 
was noised throughout Norway ; and it was especially 
praised on the spots where the Berserkers had given 
any trouble. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Sons of an Icelandic Chief in Norway. — Grettir stranded near their 
Winter Home. — He swims the Fiord. — Burning of the Hostel. — 
Grettir arrested. — The Trial by Burning Ploughshares. — Eeturns 
to Iceland. — His Mother. 

IN" the year A. D. 1016, a man named Tliorir lived 
at Garth, in Athaldal. He was a mighty Ice- 
landic chief, with numerous retainers, and extended 
influence. He had two sons, fine, promising fellows, 
both of them, and, at the time of my story, pretty 
nearly full-grown men. Thorir had spent the sum- 
mer in Norway, when King Olaf returned from Eng- 
land, and had got into favor with the king, and also 
with Bishop Seginth ; as may be judged by the fact 
that Thorir, after having built a ship, asked him to 
consecrate it, which was a great condescension on 
the part of Thorir. 

Thorir left Norway for Iceland : he reached it 
safely, and then chopped up his boat, as he was tired 
of the sea. The two beaks of the prow he set up 
over his hall doors ; and they were sure indications 
of the direction of the wind, for the north wind 
piped in one, and in the other wailed the south wind. 

As soon as the news reached Iceland that King 
Olaf was supreme over the whole of Norway, Thorir 
considered that there might be a good opening at 

153 



154 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

court for his two sons ; so lie packed them both off, 
late in the autumn, to pay their respects to the king, 
and remind him of his old friendship for their father. 

They landed in the south of Norway ; and then, 
getting a long rowing-boat, they skirted the coast on 
their way north to Drontheim. Reaching a fine 
frith, in which there was shelter from the gales which 
began to bluster violently as the winter drew nigh, 
the sons of Thorir ran their boat in, and determined 
on waiting, till the storms blew over, in a comfortable 
hostel, built some way up the shore, for the accom- 
modation of travellers. Their days they spent in 
hunting bears among the mountains, and their nights 
in merry carousal. 

It happened that Grettir was on board a merchant- 
man, then off* the shores of Norway, beating about 
in the gale, seeking safe harborage. 

Late one evening the vessel ran up this same 
fjord, and stranded on the side opposite that on which 
was the hostel. The night was cold and wintry ; 
heavy storms of snow rolled over the country, 
whitening the mountains, and forming drifts behind 
the rocks. The men from the ship were worn out 
and numbed with cold, and they knew not on what 
part of the coast they had stranded. 

When they reached land, they hurried from the 
shore to seek a sheltered nook where they might pass 
the night. 

It was a wild night. The moon had been clouded 
over by piles of gray mist, which rolled through the 
sky, sending out arms of vapor ; haggard and ghastly, 
she seemed to steal over her course swathed in grave- 



AN ICELANDIC CHIEF, 155 

clothes. Now and then some crags canght a strag- 
gling gleam, and flashed forth, but directly after were 
again blotted out ; then the fjord caught the light, 
and shone like steel till the shadows turned it to 
lead. An uncertain light flickered down the moun- 
tain side over the pine-forests, which waved and bent 
as the wind poured through them. 

Suddenly a spark, then a flame, was distinguish- 
able, twinkling among the trees on the opposite side 
of the fjord. This was a tantalizing sight for the 
poor shivering fellows ; and they began to wish that 
some one of their number would swim across, and 
bring over a light. No one, however, offered ; and the 
crew hesitated about pushing the ship off and 
rowing across, lest they should fall among rocks, and 
injure the vessel. 

'^ In the good old times there must have been some 
men who would have .thought nothing of swimming 
across the frith by night," said Grettir. 

'' Maybe," answered soroe of the partj^; ''but it is 
of no odds to us what men have been,, -if there are 
none now up to the mark. Why do you not venture 
yourself, Grettir ? You are as strong a];id plucky as 
any of the old heroes. You see what straits we are 
put to for want of a little fire." 

" There is no great difficulty in procuring a light," 
answered the young Icelander : " but I know that 
I shall get no thanks for my pains." 

" Then you must have an uncommonly poor opinion 
of us," said the chapmen. 

"Well," quoth Grettir, "I will risk it: at the 
same time I tell you, I have a presentiment that you 
will bear me no good-will for what I do," 



156 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

They pooh-poolied his objections, and assured him 
that he was the- best fellow going. 

Then Grettir flung his clothes off, and busked him 
for swimming. He had on him a fur cape, and a pair 
of ivadmal breeches. These he hitched up, and 
strapped tightly round his waist with a bark cord; 
then, catching up an iron pot, he jumped into the sea, 
and swam across. 

On reaching the farther side, he stood up on the 
beach, and shook the superfluous water from him ; 
but before long his trousers froze hard, and the water 
formed in icicles round the hood of his cape. 

Grettir ascended through the pine wood towards 
the light ; and, on reaching the hostel from whence 
it proceeded, he walked straight in without speak- 
ing to any one ; and, striding up to the fire, he 
stooped, and began to rake the embers into his 
iron pot, and to select a blazing brand which he 
could carry across in his mouth. 

The hall was full of revellers, and these revellers 
were the sons of Thorir, and their boat's crew. 
They were already half intoxicated ; and on seeing 
a tall, wild-looldng man enter the hall, half dressed 
in fur, and bristling with icicles, they concluded at 
once that they saw a troll, or mountain demon. 

Whereupon, every man caught up the first weapon 
he could lay hold of, and rushed to the attack. 
Grettir defended himself as best he could, warding 
off the blows with the flaming log, and eluding the 
missiles flung at him. In the scuffle, the hot em-bers 
on the hearth were scattered over the floor, which 
was strewn with fresh straw and rushes. 



A MISFORTUNE. 157 

In a few moments, the hall was filled with flame 
and smoke ; and Grettir broke through it, escaped 
to the shore, plunged into the waves, and reached 
the other side in safety. 

He found his companions waiting for him behind 
a rock, with a pile of dry wood which they had col- 
lected during his absence. The cinders were blown 
upon, and twigs applied, till a blaze was produced ; 
and before long the whole party sat rubbing their 
almost frozen hands over a cheerful fire. 

On the following morning the merchants recog- 
nized the fjord ; and, remembering that on its bank 
stood the house of refuge which King Olaf had 
built for weather-bound travellers, they supposed 
that the light Grettir had procured must have come 
from it; so they determined on running the boat 
across, and seeing who were then quartered in the 
hostel. 

When they reached the spot, they found nothing 
but an immense heap of smoking ashes. From under 
some of the charred timber, projected scorched human 
limbs. The chapmen, in alarm and horror, turned 
upon Grettir, and charged him with having mali- 
ciously burned the house with all its inmates. 

" There, now ! " exclaimed Grettir : " I had a pre- 
sentiment that misfortune would attend my under- 
taking last night. I wish that I had not taken so 
much trouble for a set of thankless churls like you." 

The ship's crew raked the embers out, and pulled 
aside the smoking beams in their search for the 
bodies, that they might give them decent burial. 
In so doing, they came upon some whose features 

14 



158 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

were not completely obliterated, and among these 
was one of the sons of Thorir. It was at once con- 
cluded that the party brought by Grettir to such an 
untimely end was that of Tliorir's sons, which had 
sailed shortly before the chapmen. The indignation 
of the merchants became so vehement, that they 
drove Grettir with imprecations fi'om their company, 
and refused to receive him into their vessel for the 
remainder of the voyage. 

Grettir, in sullen wrath, would say no word in 
self-defence ; but, turning on his heel, he stalked 
proudly into the woods with his sword by his side, 
and his battle-axe over his shoulder, determined on 
exculpating himself before King Olaf, and him 
alone. The vessel reached Drontheim before him, 
and the news of the hostel-burning caused universal 
indignation. 

One day, as the king sat at audience in his hall, 
Grettir strode in, and, going before Olaf, greeted 
him. The king eyed him all over, and said, — 

'' Are you Grettir the strong ? " 

He answered, '' Such is my name ; and I have come 
hither, sire, to get a fair hearing, and rid myself of 
the charge of having burned men maliciously. Of 
that I am guiltless." 

Olaf replied, '' I sincerely hope that what you say 
is true, and that you Avill have the good fortune to 
clear yourself of the imputation laid against you.'' 

Grettir said that he was willing to do any thing 
the king wished, in order to prove his innocence. 

'' Tell me first," quoth the king, " what is the true 
version of the story, that I may know what steps 
are to be taken." 



TRIAL BY BURNING PLOUGHSHARES, 159 

Grettir answered by relating all the circumstances ; 
and he asserted that the men were alive when he 
left the hostel, carrying the fire. 

The king remained silent for some moments. 

'' If I might fight some one," suggested Grettir, 
" I should rather like it." 

'^ I have no doubt that you would," replied Olaf. 
" But remember you have not a single accuser, but a 
whole ship's crew, and you cannot fight them all." 

'' Why not ? " asked the Icelander ; '' the more, 
the merrier. Let them come." 

" No, no, Grettir," answered the king. ''I can- 
not allow such a proceeding to take place. But I 
will tell you what you shall do : go through the 
fire ordeal." 

'' What is that ? " asked the young man. 

''You must lift bars of iron, heated till the fur- 
nace can make them no hotter, and walk with bare 
feet on red-hot ploughshares." 

" I'll do it at once," said Grettir. '' Where are 
the ploughshares ? " 

'' Stop ! " said the king. '' You would be burned to 
a certainty if you ventured without preparation." 

" What preparation ? " asked Grettir. 
*"A week of prayer and fasting," was the 
reply. 

'' I do not like fasting," said the young man. 

'' But you cannot help yourself," answered Olaf. 

'' I cannot pray," said Grettir : '' I never could." 

'' Then the bishop shall teach you," answered the 
king, with a smile at the bluntness of the Ice- 
lander. 



160 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

Grettir was removed, and kept in custody by the 
clergy, who did their best to prepare him for the sol- 
emn moment of the ordeal ; but they found him a 
troublesome fellow to manage. 

The day came ; and Drontheim was thronged with 
people, who streamed in from all the country round, 
to see the Icelander of whom such stories were 
told. A procession was formed ; the king's body- 
guard marched at the head, followed by the king 
himself, the bishop, the choir, and the clerg}^, 
amongst whom walked Grettir, a head taller than 
any of the throng, upright, his wild, brown hair fly- 
ing loose in the breeze, his arms folded, and his hon- 
est blue eyes wandering over the sea of heads which 
filled the square before the cathedral doors. The 
crowd pressed in closer and closer, but without in 
the slightest degree disconcerting him. Opinions 
seemed to be divided as to whether he were guilty 
or not. His dauntless bearing, and open, sunny 
countenance, were not those of a truculent Berserker. 
Among the mob was a young man of dark complex- 
ion, who made a great noise, wrangling, and shoulder- 
ing his way, till he reached the procession. 

'' Look at him ! " exclaimed he. '' This is the man 
who, in cold blood, could burn a house down over 
helpless victims, and exult at their shrieks of de- 
spair; yet now he is about to be given a chance of 
escape, when every one knows that he is a deep-dyed 
villain ! " 

" But he says that he is guiltless," quoth a man in 
the crowd. 

'' Innocent ! " exclaimed the youth. '' A plea of 



TRIAL BY BURNING PLOUGHSHARES, 161 

innocence has been set up as an excuse because the 
king wishes to have him in his bocly-gnard." 

'' He should have a chance of clearing his charac- 
ter," spoke a person standing near. 

''Ay ! but who knows how the irons may be tam- 
pered with by the king and clergy, so that this ruthless 
murderer may escape the punishment he deserves ? " 

"Young man!" spoke Grettir, with a voice like 
thunder, whilst flame leaped up in his eyes, and his 
strong limbs quivered with rage. ' " Young man, be- 
ware ! " 

''Beware of what, pray?" laughed the youth*. 
" Though you may escape the punishment you so 
richly deserved, yet you shall not escape me." 

And, springing up, he thrust his nails into Gret- 
tir's face, so that he brought blood ; calling him, at 
the same time, son of a sea-devil, troll, and other in- 
sulting names. This was more than the Icelander 
could bear : he caught the young man up, shook him 
as a cat shakes a mouse, and flung him to the ground 
with such violence that he lay senseless, and was 
carried away as if dead. 

This act gave rise to a general uproar : the mob 
wanted to lay hands on Grettir ; some threw stones, 
others assaulted Avith sticks ; but he, planting his 
back against the church wall, rolled up his sleeves, 
and guarded off the blows, shouting joyously to his 
assailants to come on. 

A shout of honest joy at the prospect of a fight 
mantled in his cheeks, and his eyes sparkled with de- 
light. Not a man came within his reach but was 
sent reeling back, or felled to the ground. 

14* 



162 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Grettir caught a stick aimed at him, while it was 
in the air, and dealt such blows with it, that he 
cleared a ring about him ; whilst still, with a voice 
clear as a bell, he called to the mob to come on man- 
fully, and not shrink back like cowards. 

In the mean time the king and bishop had been 
waiting in church ; the processional psalm was ended, 
the red-hot ploughshares were laid in the choir, and 
were gradually cooling ; but no Grettir came. 

At the same time sounds of uproar entered the 
church, and the king sent out to know what was the 
matter. His messenger returned a moment after 
with a report, that, without the cathedral, the Ice- 
lander was fighting the whole town. 

The king thereupon sprang from his throne, 
hastened down the nave, and came out of the great 
western door whilst the conflict was at its height. 

" O sire ! " exclaimed Grettir : '' see how I can 
fight the rascals ! " and, at the word, he knocked a 
man over at the king's feet. 

" Hold, hold ! " exclaimed Olaf. '' What have 
you done, throwing away the chance of exculpating 
yourself from the charge laid against you ? " 

'' I am ready now, sire," answered Grettir, wiping 
the perspiration and blood from his face, and smooth- 
ing down his hair, which was standing on end. '' Let 
us go into the church at once : I am longing for the 
red-hot ploughshares." 

He would have pushed past the king, had not Olaf 
prevented him, saying that his opportunity was past, 
as he was guilty of mortal sin in having killed the 
young man who had assaulted him, and maimed so 
many other persons. 



GRETTin OUTLAWED. 163 

''What is to be done?" exclaimed Grettir. ''I 
have undergone all that week of fasting for nothing. 
Sire, might not I become your henchman ? You will 
find me stronger than most men." 

"True enough," answered the king: ''few men 
have the strength and courage which you possess ; 
but ill-luck attends on you. Besides, I dare not 
keep you by me, as you would continually be getting 
into hot water. Now this I decree : you shall be in 
peace during the winter ; but with the return of sum- 
mer you shall be outlawed, and go to Iceland, where 
I forewarn you, you shall lay your bones." 

Grettir answered, " I should like first to get rid of 
the charge of the hostel-burning, for, honor bright ! I 
never intended to do the mischief." 

" That is likely enough," said the king ; " but it is 
quite impossible now for you to go through the or- 
deal." 

After this, Grettir hung about the town for some 
while ; but Olaf paid no further attention to him ; 
so at last he went off to stay the rest of the winter 
with a kinsman. 

On the return of spring, the news of what Grettir 
had done reached Iceland ; and, when they came to 
the ears of Thorir of Garth, he rode with all his 
friends and clients to Thing, and brought an action 
against Grettir for the burning of his sons. Some 
men thought that the action was illegal, as the de- 
fendant was not present to take exception ; however, 
the end of the action was, that Grettir was outlawed 
through the length and breadth of Iceland. Thorir 
set a price on his head, and proved the bitterest of 
Grettir's foes. 



164 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Towards the close of the summer, Grettir arrived 
in a vessel off the mouth of the Vf hite River, in Bor- 
gar-fjord. 

It was a still summer night when the ship dropped 
anchor. The Skarths-heithi chain was purple ; but 
Baula's short cone was steeped in gold, and the dis- 
tant silver cap of Ok shone in the sun's rays, like a 
rising moon. The steam rising from the numerous 
springs in Reykholts-dale was rounded and white in 
the cool, still air. Flights of swans sailed overhead 
with their harp-like melody. As the gulls dipped in 
the calm water, every feather of their white wings 
was reflected. A boat came from shore, and was 
rowed to the ship. 

Grettir stood watching it from the bows, leaning 
on his sword. As the smack touched the side of the 
ship, " What news ? " he called. 

''Are you Grettir, Asmund's son? " asked a man 
rising in the boat. 

'' I am," replied Grettir. 

" Then we bear you ill news : your father is dead ! " 

Another man stood up in the boat, and said, 
" Grettir, your brother has been murdered ! " 

" And you," called a third boatman, ''have been 
outlawed through the length and breadth of Ice- 
land ! " 

It is said that Grettir did not change color, nor did 
a muscle in his whole body quiver ; but he lifted up 
his voice, and sang, — 

'* All at once are showered 
Round me, rhyme-collector, 
Tidings sad, — my exile, 



GRETTIR AT HOME. 165 

Father's loss, and brother's, 
Branchmg boughs of battle. 
Many blue-blade breakers 
Shall bewail my sorrow." 

One niglit Grettir swam ashore, obtained a horse, 
and reached the Middle Frith in two daj^s. He ar- 
rived at home by night, when all Avere asleep ; so, 
instead of disturbing the household, he went round 
to the back of the house, opened a private door, 
stepped into the hall, stole up to his mother's bed, 
and threw his arms round her neck. 

She started up, and asked who was there. When 
he told her, she clasped him to her heart, and laid 
her head, sobbing, on his breast, saying, '' O my 
boy ! I am bereaved of my children ; Atli, my eld- 
est, is murdered, and you are outlawed ; only my 
baby Illugi remains ! " 

Grettir remained at home for some days, till Thorir 
of Garth learned where he was, and then he was 
compelled to fly. He was hunted from place to place, 
and to the last Thorir remained his implacable ene- 
my. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Haunted Sheepfolds. — Strange Sheplierd. — His Fate. — Grettir 
succeeds Him. — Terrible Scenes. —Final Struggle. — The Vam- 
pire's Grave. 

IN tlie beginning of the eleventli century, there 
stood, a little way up the Valley of Shadows, 
on the northern route from Thingvalla, a small 
farm occupied by a worthy bonder named Thor- 
hall, and his wife. Thorhall would have been a 
happy man, but for one circumstance, — his sheep- 
walks were haunted. 

Not a herdsman would remain with him. He 
bribed, threatened, entreated, all to no purpose : one 
shepherd after another left his service ; and things 
came to such a pass, that he determined on asking 
advice at the next annual council. 

Skapti, Thorodd's son, was lawgiver at that time ; 
and as every one considered him a man of the 
utmost prudence, and able to give the best advice, 
our friend from the Vale of Shadows made straight 
for his booth, when the Althing met at Thingvalla. 

" An awkward predicament, certainly, to have 
large droves of sheep, and no one to look after 
them," said Skapti, nibbling the nail of his thumb, 
and shaking his wise head, — a head as stuffed 
with law as a ptarmigan's crop is stuffed with blae- 

16B 



HAUNTED SIIEEPFOLDS. 167 

berries. "Now, I'll tell you what: as you have 
asked mj'' advice, I will help you to a shepherd, a 
character in his way ; a man of dull intellect, to be 
sure, but strong as a bull. He is called Glamr." 

" I do not care about his wits, so long as he can 
look after sheep," answered Thorhall. 

" You may rely on his being able to do that," said 
Skapti. " He is a stout, plucky fellow ; a Swede 
from Sylgsdale, if you know where that is." 

He rode away to Armaun's-fell ; and, when he drew 
near, he met a strange-looking man driving before 
him a horse laden with fagots. 

"Pray what is your name, my man?" asked the 
farmer, pulling up. 

" Glamr, an please you ! " replied the wood-cutter. 
Thorhall stared : then, with a preliminary cough, he 
asked how Glamr liked fagot-picking. 

" Not much," was the answer : " 1 prefer shepherd 
life." 

" Will you come with me ? " asked Thorhall : 
" Skapti has handed you over to me,^nd I want a 
shepherd this Avinter uncommonly." 

" If I serve you, it is with the understanding that 
I come and go as pleases me. I tell you I'm a bit 
truculent if things do not go just to my thinking." 

" I shall not object to this," answered the bonder, 
" so I may count on your services." 

" Wait a moment ! You have not told me 
whether there be any drawback." 

" I must acknowledge that there is one," said 
Thorhall ; " in fact, the sheep walks have got a bad 
name for bogies." 



168 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

" Pshaw ! I'm not the man to be scared at 
shadows," laughed Glamr ; ''so here's my hand to 
it : I'll be with you at the beginning of the winter 
night." 

Well, after this, they parted, and presently the 
farmer found his ponies. Having thanked Skapti 
for his advice and assistance, he got his horses to- 
gether, and trotted home. Summer, and then 
autumn, passed, but not a word about the new shep- 
herd reached the Valley of Shadows. 

One gusty night a violent blow at the door 
startled all the farm ; in another moment, Glamr, 
tall as a troll, stood in the hall glowering out of his 
wild eyes, his gray hair matted with frost, his teeth 
rattling and snapping with cold, his face blood-red 
in the glare of the fire which smouldered in the 
centre of the hall. 

Thorhall jumped up, and greeted him warmly ; but 
the housewife was too frightened to be very cordial. 
Weeks passed, and the new shepherd was daily on 
the moors with his flocks ; his loud and deep-toned 
voice was often borne down on the blast, as he 
shouted to the sheep, driving them into the fold. 

His presence always produced gloom ; and, if he 
spoke, it sent a thrill through the women, who 
openly proclaimed their aversion for him. 

There was a church near the byre, but Glamr 
never crossed the threshold: he hated psalmody, 
which shows what a bad man he was. 

A raw day came ; masses of gray vapor rolled up 
from the Arctic Ocean, and hung in piles about the 
mountain-tops. As the day declined, snow began to 



THE STRANGE SHEPHERD, 169 

fall in large flakes, like the down of the eider-duck. 
One moment there was a lull in the wind ; and then 
the deep-toned shout of Glamr, high up the moor- 
slopes, was heard by the congregation assembling 
for the first vespers. Darkness came on, deep as 
that in the rayless abysses of Surtshellir, and still 
the snow fell thicker. The lights from the church- 
windows sent a yellow haze far out into the night, 
and every flake burned golden as it swept within 
the ray. The bell in the lych-gate clanged for even- 
song, and the wind puffed the sound far up the 
glen ; perhaps it reached the herdsman's ear. Hark ! 
some one caught a distant shout or shriek ; which it 
was he could not tell, for the wind muttered and 
mumbled about the church-eaves, and then, with a 
fierce whistle, scudded over the graveyard fence. 

Glamr had not returned when the service was 
over. Thorhall suggested a search, but no man 
could accompany him ; and no wonder ! it was not a 
night for a dog to be out in ; besides, the tracks 
were a foot deep in snow. The family sat up all 
night, waiting, listening, trembling; but no Glamr 
came home. Dawn broke at last, wan and blear in 
the south. The clouds hung down like great sheets, 
full of snow, almost to bursting. 

A party was soon formed to search for the missing 
man. Presently they were called together about a 
trampled spot in the heithi, where evidently a death- 
struggle had taken place, for earth and stone were 
tossed about, and the snow was blotched with large 
splashes of blood. A gory track led up the moun- 
tain ; and the farm-servants were following it, when a 

16 



170 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

cry, almost of agony, from one of the lads made 
them turn. In looking behind a rock, the boy had 
come upon the corpse of the shepherd. It was livid, 
and swollen to the size of a bullock ; it lay on its 
back with the arms extended. The snow had been 
Scrabbled up by the puffed hands in the death agony ; 
and the staring glassy eyes gazed out of the ashen- 
gray upturned face, into the vaporous canopy over- 
head. From the purple lips lolled the tongue, which 
in the last throes had been bitten through by the 
horrid white fangs ; and a discolored stream which 
had flowed from it was now an icicle. 

A cairn was raised over it on the spot. 

Two nights after this, one of the thralls who had 
gone after the cows burst into the stofa with a face 
blank and scared ; he staggered to a seat, and fainted. 
On recovering his senses, in a broken voice, he as- 
sured all who crowded about him that he had seen 
Glamr walking past him, as he left the door of the 
stable. On the following evening a house-boy was 
found in a fit under the tun wall ; and he remained 
an idiot to his dying day. Some of the women next 
saw a face, which, though blown out and discolored, 
they recognized as that of Glamr looking in upon 
them through a window of the dairy. In the twi- 
light Thorhall himself met the dead man, who stood 
and glowered at him, but made no attempt to injure 
his master. The haunting did not end there. Nightly 
a heavy tread was heard around the house, and a 
hand feeling along the walls, sometimes thrust in at 
the windows, at others clutching at the woodwork, 
and breaking it to splinters. However, when the 



THORGANT, 171 

spring came round, the disturbances lessened ; and, as 
the sun obtained full power, ceased altogether. 

That summer a vessel from Norway dropped 
anchor at Htinavatu. Thorhall visited it, and 
found on board a man named Thorgant, who was in 
search of work. 

'' What do you say to being my shepherd ? " asked 
the bonder. 

" I should much like the office," answered Thor- 
gant. '' I am as strong as two ordinary men, and a 
handy fellow, to boot." 

"I will not engage you withou.t forewarning you 
of the terrible things you may have to encounter 
during the winter night." 

'' Pray, what may they be ? " 

" Ghosts and hobgoblins," answered the farmer, 
'' A fine dance they lead me, I assure you." 

''I fear them not," answered Thorgant : '' I shall 
be with you at cattle-slaughtering time." 

At the appointed season the man came, and soon 
established himself as a favorite in the household. 

At last Christmas Eve came round, and Thorgant 
went out as usual with his sheep. 

'' Have a care, man ! " urged the bonder. '' Go not 
near to the gill-head where Glamr lies." 

"Tut, tut! fear not for me: I shall be back by 
vespers." 

" God grant it ! " sighed the housewife ; ''but 'tis 
a wisht day, to be sure." The natives are waiting 
around the church-door, but no Thorgant has re- 
turned. They find him, next morning, lying across 
Glamr's cairn, with his spine, his leg, and arm-bones 



172 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

shattered. He is conveyed to the churchyard, and a 
cross is set np at his head. He sleeps till the resur- 
rection peacefully. 

Not so Glamr: he becomes more furious than 
ever. No one will remain with Thorhall now except 
an old cowherd who has always served the family, 
and who had long ago dandled his present master 
on his knee. 

" All the cattle will be lost if I leave," said the 
carle. '' It shall never be told that I deserted Thor- 
hall from fear of a spectre." 

Grettir was in Iceland ; and, as the hauntings of 
this vale were matter of gossip throughout the dis- 
trict, he heard of them, and resolved on visiting the 
scene. So Grettir busked himself for a cold ride, 
mounted his horse, and, in due course of time, drew 
rein at the door of Thorhall's farm, with the request 
that he might be accommodated there for the night. 

" Ahem ! " coughed the bonder ; '' perhaps you are 
not aware " — 

" I am perfectly aware of all. I want to catch 
sight of the troll." 

'' But your horse is sure to be killed." 

" I will risk it. Glamr I must meet, so there's an 
end of it." 

'' I am delighted to see you," spoke the bonder; 
" at the same time, should mischief befall you, don't 
lay the blame at my door." 

'' Never fear, man." 

So they shook hands ; the horse was put into the 
strongest stable ; Thorhall made Grettir as good cheer 



THORHALL, 173 

as he was able, and then, as the visitor was sleepy, 
all retired to rest. The night passed quietly enough, 
and no sounds indicated the presence of a restless 
spirit. The horse, moreover, was found next morn- 
ing in good condition, enjoying his hay. 

''- This is unexpected," exclaimed the bonder glee- 
fully. '' Now Where's the saddle ? We'll clap it on, 
and then good-by, and a merry journey to you ! " 

" Good-by ! " echoed Grettir : "I am going to stay 
here another ni(>:ht." 

'^ You had better be advised," urged Thorhall. 
"If misfortune should overtake you, I know that 
all your kinsmen would visit it on my head." 

" I have made up my mind to stop," said Grettir ; 
and he looked so dogged that Thorhall opposed him 
no more. 

All was quiet next night; not a sound roused 
Grettir from his slumber. Next morning he went 
with the farmer to the stable. The strong wooden 
door was shivered, and driven in. They stepped 
across it : Grettir called to liis horse, but there was 
no responsive whinny. 

*'I am afraid," began Thorhall. Grettir leaped 
in, and found the poor brute dead, and with its neck 
broken. 

'' Now," said Thorhall quickly, '' I've got a capital 
horse, a skewbald, down by Tunga. I shall not be 
many moments In fetching it : your saddle is here, I 
think, and then you will jast have time to reach " — 

'^ I stay here another night," interrupted Grettir. 

*' I implore j^ou to depart," said Thorhall. 

" My horse is slain." 

15* 



174 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

" But I sh^l provide you with another." 

" Friend," answered Grettir, turning so sharply 
round that the farmer jumped back, half frightened, 
'' no man ever did me an injury without rueing it. 
Now, your demon herdsman has been the death of 
my horse. He must be taught a lesson." 

'' Would th»at he were ! " groaned Thorhall ; " but 
mortal must not face him. Go in peace, and receive 
compensation from me for what has happened." 

'' I must revenge my horse." 

" An obstinate man must have his own way. 
But, if you will run your head against a stone wall, 
don't be angry because you get a broken pate." 

Night came on : Grettir eat a hearty supper, and 
was right jovial ; not so Thorhall, who had his mis- 
givings. At bedtime the latter crept into his crib, 
which, in the manner of old Icelandic beds, opened 
out of the hall, as berths do out of a cabin. Grettir, 
however, determined on remaining up ; so he flung 
himself on a bench with his feet against the posts of 
the high seat, and his back against Thorhall's crib ; 
then he wrapped one lappet of his fur coat around 
his feet, the other about his head, keeping the neck- 
opening in front of his face, so that he could look 
through into the hall. 

There was a fire burning on the hearth, a smoul- 
dering heap of red embers ; every now and then a 
twig flared up, and crackled, giving Grettir glimpses 
of the rafters as he lay with his eyes wandering 
among the mysteries of the smoke-blackened roof. 
The wind whistled softly overhead. Soothingly the 
river prattled over its shingly bed -as it swept round 



TEE VAMPIRE. 175 

the knoll on wldch stood the farm. Grettir heard 
the breathing of the sleeping women in the adjoin- 
ing, chamber, and the sigh of the housewife as she 
turned into her bed. 

Click, click ! It is only the frozen turf on the 
roof cracking with intense cold. The wind lulls 
completely. The night is very still without. 

Hark ! a heavy tread, beneath which the snow 
crackles. Every footfall goes straight to Grettir's 
heart. A crash on the turf overhead ! By all the 
saints in paradise ! the vampire is treading on the 
roof! For one moment the chimney-gap is com- 
pletely darkened ; the monster is looking down it : 
the flash of the red ash is reflected in two lustreless 
eyes. Then the moon glances sweetly in once more, 
and the heavy tramp of Glamr is audibly moving 
towards the farther end of the hall. A thud ! He 
has leaped down. Grettir feels the board at his 
back quivering ; for Thorhall is awake, and is trem- 
bling in his bed. The steps pass round to the back 
of the house, and then the snapping of wood shows 
that the creature is destroying some of the out-house 
doors. He tires of this, apparently ; for his footfall 
comes clear towards the main entrance to the hall. 
The moon is veiled behind a watery cloud, and, by 
the uncertain glimmer, Grettir fancies that he sees 
two dark hands thrust in above the door. His 
apprehensions are verified ; for, with a loud snap, a 
long strip of panel breaks, and light is admitted. 
Snap, snap ! another portion gives way, and the 
gap becomes larger. Then the wattles flip out of 
their laces, and a dark arm rips them out in bunches, 



176 THE IStAND OF FIRE, 

and flings them away. There is a cross-beam to the 
door, holding a bolt which slides into a stone groove. 
Against the gray light Grettir sees a huge black 
figure heaving itself over the bar. Crack ! that has 
given way, and the rest of the door falls in shivers 
to the earth. 

" O God ! " exclaims the bonder. 

Stealthily the dead man creeps on, feeling at the 
beams as he comes ; then he stands in the hall with 
the fire-light on him. A fearful sight : the tall fig- 
ure distended with the corruption of the grave, the 
nose fallen off, the wandering, vacant eyes, with the 
glaze of death on them, the sallow flesh patched with 
green masses of decay ; the wolf-gray hair and beard 
have grown in the tomb, and hang matted about the 
shoulders and breast ; the nails too, they have grown. 
It is a sickening sight, a thing to shudder at, not to 
see. 

Motionless, with no nerve quivering now, Thorhall 
and Grettir hold their breath. 

Glamr's lifeless glance strayed round the chamber : 
it rested on the shaggy bundle by the high-seat. 
Cautiously he stepped towards it. Grettir felt him 
groping about the lower lappet, and pulling at it. 
The cloak did not give way. Another jerk ; Grettir 
kept his feet firmly pressed against the posts, so that 
the rug was not pulled off. The vampire seemed 
puzzled : he plucked at the upper flap, and tugged. 
Grettir held to the bench and bed-board, so that he 
was not moved himself, but the cloak was rent in 
twain ; and the corpse staggered back, holding half 
in his hands, and gazing wonderingly at it. Before 



STRUGGLE WITH THE VAMPIRE. 177 

it had done examining the shred, Grettir started to 
his feet, bowed his body, flung his arms about the 
carcass, and, driving his liead into the chest, strove 
to bend it backward, and snap the spine. A vain at- 
tempt ! The cold hands came down on Grettir's 
arms with diabolical force, driving them from their 
hold. Grettir clasped them about the body again ; 
then the arms closed round him, and began dragging 
him along. The brave man clung by his feet to 
benches and posts, but the strength of the vampire 
was greatest : posts gave way, benches were heaved 
from their places, and the wrestlers at each moment 
neared the door. Sharply writhing loose, Grettir 
flung his hands round a roof-beam. He was dragged 
from his feet ; the numbing arms clinched him about 
the waist, and tore at him ; evory tendon in his 
breast was strained, the strain under his shoulders 
became excruciating, the muscles stood out in knots. 
Still he held on : his fingers were bloodless ; the 
pulses of his temples throbbed in jerks ; the breath 
came in a whistle through his rigid nostrils. All the 
while, too, the long nails of the dead man cut into 
his side, and Grettir could feel thena piercing like 
knives between his ribs. Ah ! his hands gave way, 
and the monster bore him reeling towards the porch, 
crashing over the broken fragments of the door. 
Hard as the battle had gone with him indoors, Gret- 
tir knew that it Avould go worse outside : so he gath- 
ered up his remaining strength for one final desperate 
struggle. 

As the wrestlers neared the opening, Grettir 
planted both his feet against the stone posts, holding 



178 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

Glamr by the middle. He had the advantage now. 
The dead man writhed in his arms, drove his talons 
into Grettir's back, and tore up great ribbons of flesh ; 
but the stone-jambs held firm. 

" Now," thought Grettir, '' I can break his back," 
and thrusting his head under the chin, so that the 
grizzly beard covered his eyes, he forced the face 
from him, and the back was bent as a hazel-rod. 

'' If I can but hold on," thought Grettir, and he 
tried to shout for Thorhall ; but his voice was muf- 
fled in the hair of the corpse. 

Crack! One or both of the door-posts gave way. 
Down crashed the gable-trees, ripping beams and 
rafters from their beds ; frozen clods of turf rattled 
from the roof, and thumped into the snow. Glamr 
fell on his back, and Grettir staggered down on top 
of him. 

Grettir's strength was failing him, his hands quiv- 
ered in the snow, and he knew that he could not 
support himself from dropping flat on the dead man's 
face, eye to eye, hp to lip, nose to where the nose 
had been. The eyes of the corpse were fixed on 
him, lit with the cold glare of the moon. His head 
swam, as his heart sent a hot stream through his 
brain. 

Then a voice from the gray lips said, — 

'' Thou hast acted madly in seeking to match thy- 
self with me. Now learn, that henceforth ill-luck 
shall constantly attend thee, that thy strength shall 
never exceed what it is now, and that by night these 
eyes of mine shall stare at thee through the darkness 
till thy dying day, so that for very horror thou shalt 
not endure to b^e alone." 



4 



THE VAMPIRE DESTROYED, 179 

Grettir at this moment noticed that his dirk had 
slipped from its sheath during the fall, and that it 
now lay conveniently near his hand. 

The giddiness which had oppressed him passed 
away : he clutched at the sword-haft, and with a blow 
severed the vampire's throat. Then, kneeling on the 
breast, he hacked till the head came oflF. 

Thorhall came out now, his face blanched with 
terror ; but, when he saw how the fray had termi- 
nated, he assisted Grettir, gleefully, to roll the corpse 
on top of a pile of fagots which had been collected 
for winter fuel. Fire was applied ; and soon, far 
down Vatnsdalr, the flames of the pyre startled peo- 
ple, and made them wonder what new horror was 
being enacted in the Vale of Shadows. 



CHAPTER XX. 

Grettir, in Despair, seeks Counsel. — His Last Befnge. — Outlaw's 
Isle. — Solitary Life. — Hunted there and killed. 

POOR Grettir! hustled from pillar to post, 
hunted from one retreat to another, he had 
spent fifteen years of hardship such as few men have 
undergone ; yet the hatred of his deadly foe, Thorir, 
had not expended itself. The outlaw's career drew 
to a close. 

At length, about the year 1029, finding that no cor- 
ner of Iceland was safe, he asked Guthmundr the 
wealthy to advise him whither he should flee, to be 
safe from his pursuers. 

'^ There is only one spot that I know of where 
you can be in perfect security." 

Grettir replied that he had hitherto found no such 
spot. 

Guthmundr continued, '' There is an islet in the 
Skaga-fjord, hight Drangey, abounding in fish and 
fowl ; and no one can ascend it except by a rope- 
ladder which hangs down on one of the sides. If 
you can reach that spot, then you may be assured that 
it is in no man's power to touch you, so long as you 
are safe and sound, and able to guard the ladder." 

" I will venture out there," said Grettir ; " yet I 

180 



GRETTIR IN DESPAIR. 181 

am so timorous in the dark, that, to save my life, I 
cannot abide alone." 

Guthmundr answered, '' Nay, but I advise you 
to trust no one but your own self." 

Grettir thanked him for his advice, and then hast- 
ened home to his mother, at Bjarg, in the Middle 
Frith. The fear of the dark to which he alluded 
had come on him ever since his wrestle with Glamr, 
but had increased considerably of late. No sooner 
did darkness set in, than the terrible eyes of the 
vampire seemed to stare at him from the gloom. He 
slept lightly, starting in his dreams, and waking 
repeatedly during the night. This was undoubtedly 
brought on by the unceasing strain on his mind, and 
the excitability of nerves, caused by the hourly peril 
in which he had been living for so many years. 

On his arrival at Bjarg, his mother greeted him 
affectionately, and told him that she would indeed 
be glad if he could remain with her ; though she 
feared it would be too venturesome to do so, as 
Thorir would certainly discover his retreat before 
many days had elapsed. 

The outlaw replied that he would give her no incon- 
venience. '' For," said he, " I care to take no more 
trouble about preserving my life. I can bear my 
solitude no longer." He then told his mother of 
Guthmundr's advice ; adding, that he would try his 
best to reach Drangey, but that he must endeavor 
to secure some trustworthy companion to be with 
him* 

Illugi, his brother, now fifteen years old, a fine, 
noble boy, was present during the conversation ; and, 
la 



182 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

at these words of Grettir, he started up, caught his 
hand, and said, — 

'' Brother, I will go with you if I may, though I 
fear you will look upon me as a feeble helpmate ; yet 
I will be faithful to you, and stand by you to the 
last." 

Grettir answered, ''Of all men, my brother, I 
would rather have you with me ; and -willingly will 
I consent to your joining your lot with mine, if our 
mother has no objection." 

'' Sorrows never come singly," replied the aged 
woman. '' I can hardly bear to part with Illugi ; yet 
I know how dire is your necessity of a comrade, son 
Grettir: therefore I will not be selfish, and keep 
him. It costs me a bitter pang to part with both my 
sons in one day." 

Illugi was delighted at having thus easily obtained 
that on which he had set his heart, and he thanked 
his mother cordially. 

The mother provided her sons with money, and 
such chattels as they would require on the island ; 
and then she accompanied them outside the farm- 
yard, and, before parting with them, said, " Farewell, 
my two brave boys ! I know that I shall never see 
you again ; but, what will befall you in Drangey, I 
know not. Only of this I am certain, that there 
you will die, for many will resent your occupation of 
that island. My dreams have long forewarned me 
that you will not be divided in your deaths. Be- 
ware of treachery, shun any dealings with sorcery ; 
for nothing is more powerful than witchcraft. My 
blessing be upon you both!" She could speak no 



GRETTIR ON THE ISLAND. 183 

more, for her voice was choked with sobs ; so, sit- 
ting down on a stone, she covered her eyes with her 
hands, and the tears trickled between her fingers, 
falling in bright drops on her lap. 

"Do not weep, mother," said Grettir : "what 
though we both die ? It shall ever be said of you 
that you bore sons, and not daughters. Long life and 
health attend jou ! " 

Then they parted ; and the brothers went north, 
and visited their kinsmen. Here they met a tall, 
thin, ragged man, a bachelor, whose chatty, gossip- 
ing ways Grettir liked, and induced him to join 
them in exile. His name was Glaum. 

After this they went to Reynines ; thence they 
proceeded to the strand, where there is a little byre, 
Reykir, with a hot spring, in the tun, belonging to a 
man named Thorwaldr. Grettir offered him a bag 
of silver if he would flit him across to Drangey by 
moonlight, and to this the man agreed. 

On arriving at his destination, Grettir was well 
pleased with the spot ; for it was covered with a pro- 
fusion of grass, and was so precipitous that it 
seemed impossible for any one to ascend it without 
the aid of the rope4adder, which hung from strong 
staples at the summit. In summer the place would 
swarm with sea-birds, and at that time there were 
eighty sheep left on the island for fattening. 

One of the principal chiefs in the Skaga-fjord was 
Thorbjorn, nicknamed "The Hook," a hard-hearted, 
ill-disposed fellow. 

As many as twenty farmers had rights of pastur- 
age on Drangey ; but the Hook and his brother had 
the greatest share. 



184 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

About the time of the winter solstice, the bond- 
ers busked them to visit the island, and bring 
home their sheep. They rowed out in a large boat, 
and, on nearing the island, were surprised to see 
figures moving on the top of the cliffs. How any 
one had reached the islet without their knowledge 
was a puzzle to them, and they had not the slightest 
suspicion who these occupants could be. They 
pulled hard for the landing-place where hung the 
ladder, but Grettir drew it up before the boat 
stranded. 

The bonders shouted to know who those were on 
the crags; and Grettir, looking over, told them. 

The bonders asked who had flitted him across to 
the island. Grettir answered, '' If you wish partic- 
ularly to know, I will tell you : it was a man with a 
good boat and strong arms, and one who was rather 
my friend than yours." 

'' Let us get our sheep," cried the bonders ; " and 
you come to land with us. We will charge you 
nothing for those of our sheep which you have 
eaten, and we will let you go from us in peace."' 

'' Well offered," answered Grettir ; ''but he who 
takes keeps hold, and a bird in the hand is worth 
two in the bush. Believe me, I never leave the 
island till I am carried from it dead." 

The bonders were silenced : it seemed to them 
that they had got an ugly customer on Drangey, to 
get rid of whom would be no easy matter ; so they 
rowed home, very ill pleased at the result of their 
expedition. 

The news spread like wildfire, and was talked 



GRETTIR AT THE COUNCIL, 185 

about all througli the neighborhood ; but no one 
could devise a plan for getting rid of the outlaw. 

Winter passed ; and, at the beginning of spring, 
the whole district met at the '' Thing," or Council, 
of Hegraness, an extensive island at the mouth of 
Heradsvatn River. The gathering was thronged, 
and the litigations and merry-making made the 
Thing last over many days. Grettir guessed what 
was going on, by seeing a number of boats pass the 
head of the fjord. He became very restless, and at 
last announced to his brother that he intended being 
present at the council. Illugi thought this sheer 
madness, but Grettir was resolute. He begged 
Illugi and Glaum to watch the ladder, and await 
his return. 

Then he crossed to the mainland, and hastened in 
disguise to the council, where he found that sports 
of all kinds were going on among the able-bodied 
young men. Grettir was dressed in an old-fashioned 
suit, very dirty, and falling to tatters. He had on a 
fur cap, which was drawn closely over his eyes, and 
concealed his face so that no one recognized him. 
He sauntered among the booths till he reached the 
spot where the games were taking place. 

Among the wrestlers, no man surpassed Thorb- 
jorn Hook in skill and prowess. He threw all the 
strongest men of the neighborhood ; and when he 
had cleared the ground of antagonists, and found 
that there was no one to oppose him, he stood still, 
and cast his eyes round him. Suddenly they rested 
on a tall fellow in the shabbiest and quaintest of 
suits, but who looked so strongly built that Thorbjorn 

16* 



186 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

walked up to Mm, and caught him by the shoulders. 
But the man sat still, and he could not move him 
from his seat. '' Well," exclaimed the Hook, " you 
are the first fellow I have seen for many a day 
whom I couldn't pull off his stool. Come now, and 
wrestle with me ; yet tell me first what is your 
name ? " 

'' Guest," answered the stranger. 

''A welcome guest too," quoth the bully, "if 
you will wrestle with me." 

The man rephed that they would not be fairly 
matched, as he was little skilled in athletic sports. 

Several men now chimed in, begging the stranger 
to try what he could do with Thorbjorn, or, at all 
events, with one of the others. 

" Long, long ago," quoth he, " I was able to 
throw my man as well as the best of you ; but those 
days are gone by, and now I am out of practice." 

As he only half refused, the bystanders urged 
him all the more. 

'' Now mark you ! " said he ; '' I yield on one con- 
dition ; and that is, that you take your oath to let me 
go free to my home, without one of you lifting a 
hand against me." 

There was a general shout of acquiescence ; and 
Hafr, one of the number, recited the peace-oath, 
which was, in its curses upon the violation of it, 
more fearful than the anathemas of papal Rome. 
He was to be '' cast out of the presence of God, 
good men, and the heavenly kingdom ; banished 
from churches, the company of Christian men, from 
heathen folk, from house and den, from every home 
save hell ! " = . 



GRETTIR AT THE COUNCIL. 187 

After a little hesitation the oath was taken by all. 

Then said Guest, " Now you have done well, only 
beware of breaking your oaths. I am ready on my 
part, without delay, to fulfil your wishes." Then 
he fl.ung aside his hood, and almost all his tatters. 

The assembled chiefs looked at each other, and 
were rather disconcerted ; for they saw that there 
stood before them the redoubted Grettir, Asmund's 
son. They were silent, and Hafr thought that he had 
acted somewhat rashly. The throng broke up into 
knots, and began to discuss whether the oath should 
be kept or not. 

'^ Come now," shouted Grettir : " let me know 
your purposes, for I shall not long sit naked. There 
is more danger to you than to me, in the breach of 
your oaths." 

He got no answer, but the chiefs moyed away to 
discuss the question. Some wanted to break the 
truce ; others wanted to keep it. Then Grettir 
sang, — 

" Many trees of wealth, this morning, 
Failed the well-known, well to know, 
Two ways turn the sea-flame branches, 
When a trick on them is tried. 
Falter folk their oath fulfilling, 
Hafr's talking lips are dumb." 

Said a man hight Tongue-stone, " You think so, 
do you, Grettir ? Well, you are a man of dauntless 
courage : I will say that for you. Look now ! the 
chiefs are in deep consultation about what is to be 
done with you." 



188 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Then Grettir sang, — 

" Lifters of shields rub their noses, 
Shield-tempest gods shake their beards, 
Fierce-hearted serpents' lair scatterers 
Go on their way, much regretting. 
Peace they have made, — now they know me 1 '* 

Then out spake Hjalti of Hdf, brother of Thorb- 
jorn Hook : *' Never let it be said of us, that we 
break an oath, even though it were inconsiderately 
taken. Grettir shall be at full liberty to go to his 
home in peace ; and woe betide him who lays hand 
on him to do him injury ! But, should he venture 
again ashore, we are free from our oath." 

All, except Thorbjorn Hook, agreed to this, and 
were glad that Hjalti had spoken out as became a 
chieftain. 

The wrestling began by Grettir being matched with 
Thorbjorn ; and, after a short struggle, Grettir freed 
himself from his antagonist, leaped over his back, 
caught him by the belt of his trousers, lifted him off 
his legs, and flung him over his back. 

It was next proposed that Grettir should be 
matched against the two brothers together, and he 
readily agreed to this. The wrestling continued 
with unabated vigor, and it was impossible to tell 
which side had the mastery ; for, though Grettir 
repeatedly threw one brother after the other, yet he 
was unable to hold them both down at the same 
time. After that all three were covered with blood 
and bruises, the match was closed by the judges 
deciding that the two brothers conjointly were not 



GRETTIR ON THE ISLAND. 189 

stronger than Grettir alone, though they were each 
of them as powerful as two ordinary able-bodied 
men. 

Grettir at once left the Thing, rejecting all the 
entreaties of the farmers, that he should leave 
Drangey ; and, on his return to the little island, he 
was received by his brother lUugi with open arms. 

The smaller bonders began to feel seriously their 
want of the island for autumn pasture ; and, as there 
seemed no prospect of their getting rid of Grettir, 
they sold their rights to Thorbjorn Hook, who set 
himself in earnest to devise a plan by which he could 
possess himself of the island. 

When Grettir had been two winters on the island, 
he had eaten all the sheep, except one ram, a piebald 
fellow with magnificent horns, which became so 
tame, that every evening he came to the hovel 
which Grettir had erected, and butted at the door 
till he was admitted. The brothers liked their place 
of exile, as there was no dearth of eggs and birds, 
besides which, a considerable amount of drift-timber 
was thrown upon the strand, and served as fuel. 

Grettir and lUugi spent their days in clambering 
among the rocks, and rifling the nests ; and the occu- 
pation of the thrall was to collect drift-wood, and 
keep up the fire in the cottage. 

The inhabitants of Skaga-fjord were angry with 
Thorbjorn Hook for not having rid the island of its 
tenants, notwithstanding all his fine promises ; but 
Thorbjorn was sorely puzzled to know what measures 
to take. 

During the summer, a ship arrived in the filth, 



190 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

commanded by a young, active fellow, Hoering by 
name, who was famous for his skill in chmbing. He 
lodged with Thorbjorn during the autumn, and was 
continually urging his host to row him out to 
Drangey, that he might escalade the precipitous sides 
of the islet. Thorbjorn required very little pressing ; 
and, one fine afternoon, he flitted his guest out to 
the island, and put him stealthily ashore, without 
attracting the notice of those on the height. 

On reaching the usual landing-place, which was 
on the opposite side of the island, Thorbjorn shouted, 
and brought Grettir and his brother to the verge of 
the cliff. The old arguments were repeated, to per- 
suade Grettir to come to the mainland, and with the 
usual success. The Hook, however, succeeded com- 
pletely in his attempt to withdraw the outlaw's 
attention from the farther side of the islet, up which 
Hoering was clambering. 

The young merchant reached the top by a way 
never attempted before nor since ; then, pausing only 
to take breath, he advanced towards the brothers, 
who were leaning over the verge of the cliff, little 
dreaming of danger in their rear. 

Grettir was engaged in angry altercation with the 
Hook, but the young brother took no part in the 
conversation; and, beginning to feel weary of his 
position, he turned on one side to relieve his elbows, 
which had rested on the rock. In so doing, he 
caught sight of Hoering. 

'^ Brother, brother ! exclaimed he, " here comes a 
man towards us, brandishing an axe, and bent on 
mischief." 



HOERING'S LEAF. 191 

''Go after him yourself, lad! "said Grettir. ''I 
will guard the ladder." 

lUugi sprang up, and rushed towards the young 
merchant, who at once took to flight, ran to the edge 
of the crag, leaped over, and was dashed to pieces 
among the rocks. That spot is called Hoering's 
Leap to this day. 

"Now, Thorbjorn," shouted Grettir, when Illugi 
returned, and told him what had taken place, '' you 
had better row round to the other side of the isle, 
and gather up the remains of your friend." 

The Hook pushed off from the strand, and returned 
home, ill enough pleased Avith what had taken place ; 
and Grettir remained at Drangey unmolested through 
the winter. 

Thorbjorn Hook was exasperated beyond measure 
at the prospect of Grettir slipping through his 
fingers after all; and he returned from the Thing 
brooding over fresh schemes against the outlaw. 

It happened that he had an old, feeble foster- 
mother, a woman of malicious disposition ; and, when 
Thorbjorn could get help nowhere else, he came to 
her, as in her youth she had dabbled in sorcery, but 
had long ceased to practise it, when, after the intro- 
duction of Christianity, it became illegal, and was 
punishable with banishment. 

" Ah ! " said she, when Thorbjorn came to her, 
'' I see that, as a last resource, you come to me, a 
bed-ridden old woman, and ask my help. Well, 
I will assist you to the best of my power, on one 
condition ; and that is, that you yield me implicit 
obedience." 



192 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

The Hook answered her that he was quite willing 
to consent, as he had long since learned to rely on 
his foster-mother's advice as being most salutary. 

When the month of August came round, the hag 
said to her foster-son, one beautiful day, " The 
sea is calm, and the sky bright : what say you to our 
rowing over to Drangey, and stirring up the old 
quarrel with Grettir? I will accompany you, and 
listen to what he says. I shall then be able to judge 
what lot awaits him ; besides, I can death-doom him 
as I please." 

The Hook answered, '' I am tired of going to 
Drangey, for I never return from it a whit the bet- 
ter off than when I started." 

'* Remember your promise," said the old woman: 
" I shall have nothing to do with you unless you fol- 
low my advice." 

" Well, then, foster-mother," quoth Thorbjorn, 
** let us go, though I vowed that my third visit should 
be the death of Grettir." 

'' Have patience," said the hag : 'Hime and trouble 
are needed before that man is laid low ; and, what 
the result will be, I know not. It may be to your 
gain, and it may be to your ruin." 

Thorbjorn ran out a long boat, and entered it with 
twelve men. The hag sat in the bows, coiled up 
amongst wraps and rugs. 

When they reached the island, the brothers ran to 
the ladder, and Thorbjorn asked whether Grettir 
was yet tired of his island. 

Grettir replied as he had replied before, " Do 
what you will : in this spot I await my destiny.'* 



CURSES OF TEE RAG, 193 

Thorbjorn saw now that his journey was likely to 
be without avail. " I see," said he, '^ that I have to 
do with the worst of men. One thing is clear enough : 
it will be a long time before I pay you another visit." 

" So much the better," answered Grettir. " I shall 
not count it as a misfortune if I never see you 
again." 

At this moment the hag began to stir in the bows 
of the boat. Grettir had not previously observed 
her presence. Now, with a shrill voice, she cried, 
" These men are sturdy, but luck has deserted them. 
See what a difference there is between folk. You, 
Thorbjorn, make them good offers, which they fool- 
ishly reject. Those who refuse good when it is 
offered them, always come to a bad end. Grettir, I 
wish you to be lost to health, wisdom, luck, and pru- 
dence. May these blessings be constantly on the 
'wane the longer you live ! and may your days hence- 
forth be fewer and sadder than those preceding 
them ! " 

As she spoke, a cold shudder ran over Grettir's 
limbs, and he asked what fiend that was in the ship. 
lUugi replied that she must be the foster-mother of 
Thorbjorn. 

" Since an evil fiend is with our foes, we can ex- 
pect nothing but the worst," said Grettir. " Never 
before have I been so agitated at words spoken, as 
whilst the hag was pouring forth her curses on us. 
I know now that evil must befall me from her witch- 
craft, but she shall have a reminder of her visit to 
me." 

Then he snatched up a large stone, and flung it 

17 



194 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

into the boat, so that it fell upon the bundle of rugs 
among Avhich lay the aged woman. As it struck, 
there rose a wild shriek from the witch, for the stone 
had fallen on her leg, and snapped it asunder. 

" Brother, you should not have done this," said 
Illugi. 

'^ Blame me not ! " answered Grettir. " I only 
wish that the stone had fallen on her skull, and that 
her life had been sacrificed instead of ours." 

On the return of Thorbjorn to the niainland, the 
hag was put to bed ; and the Hook was less pleased 
than ever with his trip to the island. 

'' Be not downcast," said his foster-mother : " this 
is the turning-point of Grettir's fortunes, and his 
luck will leave him more and more. I have no fear 
of not having my revenge, should my life be spared." 

" You are a resolute woman, foster-mother," said 
Thorbjorn Hook. 

After a month the old woman was able to leave 
her bed, and limp across the room. She one day 
demanded to be led down to the shore. * Her wishes 
were complied Avith ; and, on reaching the strand, she 
hobbled up and down till she found a large piece of 
drift-timber, just large enough for a man to carry 
upon his shoulder. 

Then she ordered it to be rolled towards her, and 
turned over. She examined it attentively. The log 
seemed to have been charred on one side, and this 
burned portion she ordered to be planed away ; then, 
taking a knife, she cut runes on it, and smeared 
them with her blood, chanting over them, as she 
limped round the beam, a wild spell that it might 



% THE CHARMED LOG. 195 

be borne to Drdngey, and there work Grettir's ill. 
The piece of timber was then pushed into the waves, 
and thrust off from shore. A fresh northerly wind 
was blowing ; but the beam swam against wind and 
tide, and held on its course direct for the outlaw's 
isle. 

The old witch returned to Vithoik. Thorbjorn 
did not think that any thing would come of what 
she had done ; but she bade him be of good cheer, 
and wait till she gave him fresh orders. 

In the mean time Grettir his brother and the 
churl, were on Drangey, catching fish and fowl for 
their winter supplies* 

The day after that on which the hag had charmed 
the piece of timber, the two brothers were walking 
on the strand to the west of the island, looking for 
drift-wood. 

'' Here is a fine log ! " exclaimed Illugi. '' Help 
me to lift it on my shoulder, and I will carry it 
home." 

Grettir spurned the beam with his foot, saying, " I 
do not like the looks of it, little brother. Runes are 
cut on it, and they may betide us ill : who knows 
but this log may have been sent hither for our de- 
struction?" 

Then they sent it adrift, and Grettir warned his 
brother not to bring it to the fire. 

They returned in the evening to their hovel, and 
did not mention the matter before the thrall. 

The next day they found the same beam washed 
up not far from the foot of the ladder. Grettir 
thrust it out to sea again, saying that he hoped he 
had seen the last of it. 



196 THE ISLAND OF FIRm 

The weather began to break up, and several days 
of storm and rain succeeded each other, so that the 
three men remained indoors till their stock of fire- 
wood was nearly expended. 

Then they ordered Glaum to search the shore for 
fuel. The fellow started up with an angry murmur, 
and left the room muttering that the weather was 
too bad for a dog to be sent out in it. Then he went 
to the rope-ladder, descended it, and found the same 
beam cast up at its very foot. 

Rejoiced at having so soon obtained what he 
wanted, he threw it over his shoulder, strode with it 
to the hut, and flung it down by the door. 

Grettir heard the sound ; and, springing up, he ex- 
claimed, '' Glaum has got something at last ! Let 
us see what he has found." 

Then, taking his axe, he went outside. 

'^Now," says Glaum, "you chop it up, as I have 
had all the trouble of bringing it." 

Grettir was angry with the fellow, and, without 
paying much attention to the log itself, he brought 
his axe down upon it with a sweep. The blade 
struck, glided off, and cut into Grettir's right leg 
below the knee with such force that it stuck in the 
bone. 

Grettir looked at the beam, and, recognizing it at 
once, said, '' The worst is at hand ! Misfortunes 
never come singly. This is the very log which I have 
rejected twice, Glaum. You have done us two ill 
turns ; first, in letting out the fire, secondly, in bring- 
ing home this accursed beam ; and, if you commit a 
third, it will be the death of you." 



GRETTIR WOUNDED, 197 

niugi bound up his brother's wound with a rag : there 
was but littk flow of blood, but it was an ugly gash. 

Grettir slept well that night. For three days and 
nights, he was without pain, and the wound seemed 
to be heahng nicely, and skin to be forming healthily 
over it. 

'' Well, brother," said lUugi, '' I think this cut 
will not trouble you long." 

'' I hope not," answered Grettir, " yet I have my 
fears." 

On the fourth evening they laid them down to 
sleep as usual. Towards midnight the lad Illugi 
awoke, hearing Grettir tossing about in his bed, as 
though in pain. 

" Why are you so restless? " he asked. 

Grettir replied that he felt great anguish in his 
leg, and that he thought some sHght change must 
have taken place in the wound. 

The boy blew some embers on the hearth into a 
flame, and by its light examined his brother's leg. 
He found that the foot was swollen and purple, and 
•that the wound had re-opened, and looked far more 
angry than Avhen first made. 

Intense pain followed; so that the poor outlaw 
could not remain quiet for one moment, and sleep no 
more visited his eyes. 

Illugi remained by him, continually holding his 
brother's hand, or bringing him water to slake his 
unquenchable thirst. 

'' We must prepare for the worst," said Grettir. 
'' This sickness is the result of sorcery. The hag is 
revenging on me that stone which I cast at her." 

17* 



198 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Ulugi replied, "I ever thought evil would come of 
it." 

" Let us be cautious now," said Grettir, " for 
Thorbjorn will make another venture. Glaum, do 
you watch the steps by day, and draw them up at 
dusk. Be a faithful servant to us, for much depends 
on your fulfilling your duty ; and I forewarn you, 
that, if you betray your trust, it will cost you your 
Hfe." 

Glaum promised well. 

The weather daily became worse ; and a fierce 
north-east wind blustered over the country, bearing 
with it cold and sleet, and powdering the highlands 
with snow. Grettir asked nightly whether the lad- 
der had been drawn up. Glaum answered churlish- 
ly, '' How can you expect people to come out in 
such a storm as this ? Do you think that folk are 
so anxious to kill you that they will be crazy enough 
to jeopardize their own lives in the attempt ? No, no ! 
You have lost all your pluck and manliness since 
you have been a little unwell. You are now scared 
and frightened at the merest trifles." 

Grettir answered, '' You have none of our pluck 
and manliness yourseK! Go now, and guard the 
ladder as you have been bidden, instead of standing 
here reproaching me with cowardice ! " 

So lUugi and his brother drove the churl from the 
house every morning, notwithstanding all his angry 
remonstrances. 

The pain became more acute, and the whole leg 
became inflamed and swollen ; signs of mortification 
appeared, and wounds opened in different parts of 



THE HAG'S SCHEMES. 199 

the limb, so that Grettir felt that the shadow of 
death was upon him. Illugi sat night and day with 
his brother's head on his shoulder, bathing his fore- 
head, and doing his utmost to console the fleeting 
spirit. A week had elapsed since the wound had 
been made. 

Thorbjorn Hook was at home, ill pleased at the 
failure of all his schemes for dispossessing Grettir of 
the island. One day his foster-mother came to him, 
and asked whether he was ready now to pay the out- 
law his final visit. Thorbjorn replied that he had no 
wish to do so, as it would come to nothing ; and 
asked his foster-mother whether she had any desire 
to seek out Grettir again, or whether she had been 
satisfied with the success of her former visit. 

" I may not ask him myself," answered the hag ; 
" but I have sent him my greeting, and by this time 
it has reached him. Speed now to Drangey as swiftly 
as you can row ; for, if you delay, he will be beyond 
your reach." 

The Hook had come off so ignominiously on every 
former occasion when he had visited the island, that 
he did not much relish the notion of making another 
attempt, especially on a day when it would be dan- 
gerous to venture on the water in a boat. 

'' You're a helpless fellow ! " exclaimed his foster- 
mother, when Thorbjorn told her his objections to 
her scheme. " Do you think that I, who have called 
up this storm, cannot refrain it from doing you 
injury ? " 

Thorbjorn went with his men to Haganess, where 
he borrowed a large sailing-boat. None of them 



200 



TEE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



were in good spirits, as the weather was so bad, and 
they had no confidence in their leader. By dusk 
they got the vessel afloat, spread sail, and, with a 
lurch, she ran out to sea. 

As the wind was from the north-east, they were 
under the lee of the high cliffs, and were not exposed 
to the ^dolence of the gale. 

A line of white foam marked the base of Drangey ; 
and now and then a great wave from the mouth of 
the j^'ord thundered against the crags, and shot in 
spouts of foam high into the air. Upon the top, one 
ruddy spark shone from the window of the hovel in 
which lay the djing outlaw, and it was reflected as a 
streak of fire on the tossing deep. 

Grettir had been in less pain that day : Illugi had 
not left him, but remained faithful to his post. 

The churl had been sent out as usual to watch the 
ladder, and draw it up at nightfall. But, instead of 
doing as he was bid, the fellow laid himself down at 
the head of the steps, in a sheltered nook, and went 
to sleep. 

When Thorbjorn and his party reached the shore, 
they found that the ladder still hung down. 

''We are in luck's way!" exclaimed the Hook. 
" Now, my men, perhaps you will think that- our 
journey will not prove as bootless as you expected. 
Up the ladder with you ! and let us all be of good 
courag^e ! " 

Then they ascended, one after another, Thorbjorn 
taking the lead. On reaching the top, they noticed 
Glaum asleep under a rock, snoring loudly. Thorb- 
jorn recognized the man at once, and struck him over 



GRETTIR SURPRISED. 201 

the shoulders with his sword-hilt, bidding him wake 
up, fool that he was, and tell them truly all that he 
knew about those whom they sought. 

Glaum turned over on his side, rubbed his eyes, 
and growled forth, '' Cannot you leave a poor wretch 
alone ? assuredly never was man so ill-treated before ; 
you won't even let me sleep out here in the cold ! " 

'' Idiot ! " exclaimed the Hook ; " look up, and see 
who are come ! We are your foes, who purpose slay- 
ing every man of you." 

Glaum started up, and screamed with terror when 
he saw the black figures around him. 

" Silence ! " cried Thorbjorn : '' I give you your 
choice of two things, — answer the questions I put 
to you, or die on the spot." 

The churl was silenced, and stood trembling before 
the Hook, with great drops of perspiration rolling 
off his face. 

" Are the brothers in the house?*" asked Thorb- 
jorn ; " or shall we find them out of doors? " 

" Oh ! " cried Glaum, " they are both within ; 
Grettir sick to death, and lUugi watching, and never 
leaving him." 

All that evening the sick man's eyes had been 
wandering among the rafters, watching the light play 
among them, as the firewood blazed up, or smouldered 
away. Presently he turned his head towards his 
brother, saying that he thought he could sleep ; and 
in a few moments he closed his eyes. 

lUugi watched his face kindled by the scarlet glow 
from the embers. It was more tranquil than he had 
seen it for many days ; the musclea were relaxed ; and 



202 THE ISLAND OF FIRE 

wrinkles, furrowed on the brow by the intense pain 
which the poor outlaw had suffered, were now 
smoothed quite away. Grettir's face was not hand- 
some, but it was grave and earnest, tanned dark by 
continual exposure to the weather. His breath came 
evenly in sleep ; one hand lay open, palm uppermost, 
on the floor ; the other played with the tassel of his 
spear, which stood ever by his side. Suddenly there 
was a crash at the door, and the sleeper opened his 
eyes dreamily. 

''It is only the old ram, brother : he wants to 
come in," said Illugi, '' and is butting at the door." 

'' He butts hard, he butts hard ! " muttered Gret- 
tir, and at that moment the door burst open. They 
saw faces looking in. Illugi sprang to his feet, 
grasped a sword, flew to the doorway, and defended 
it valiantly ; so that none could come within a spear's 
length of it, for the lad brought down his weapon on 
their lances, and smote off the heads. 

Then some of the men clambered up on the roof, 
and began to rip off its covering of turf. Grettir 
tried to rise to his feet, but could only stagger to his 
knees. He seized his spear, and drove it through the 
roof, among those who were tearing it down. It 
struck Karr in the breast, and pierced him. 

'' Be careful ! " cried the Hook ; '' be careful, and 
no harm can happen to you." 

Then the men pulled at the gable-ends, heaved the 
ridge-piece aside, and broke it asunder, so that a 
shower of rafters and turf fell into the chamber. 

Grettir drew his sword, and smote at the men, as 
they leaped upon him from the wall. With one 



DEATH OF GRETTIR, 203 

blow he struck Vikarr, the servant of Hjalti, over 
the left shoulder, as he was upon the point of spring- 
ing down. The sword sliced through him, and came 
out below his right arm, and the corpse dropped 
upon Grettir. The blow was so violent that Grettir 
fell forward; and, before he could raise himself, 
Thorbjorn Hook struck him between the shoulders, 
and made a fearful wound. 

Then cried Grettir, '' Bare is man's back without 
brother behind it!" and instantly lUugi threw his 
shield over him, planted a foot on either side of him, 
as he lay on the floor, and defended him gallantly, 
so that all were amazed at his courage. 

" Who showed you the way to the island? " asked 
Grettir of the Hook. 

" Christ showed us the way," answered Thor- 
bjorn. 

" Nay, nay ! " muttered Grettir : ''it was that 
hag, your foster-mother, who directed you hither! " 

The mist of death was in his eyes : he attempted 
to raise himself, but sank again on the sheepskins, 
which were now drenched in blood. No one could 
touch him, for the brave lad warded off every blow 
that was aimed at his brother. Then the Hook or- 
dered his men to form a ring around them, and to 
close in on them with shields and beams. They did 
so, and lUugi was taken and bound ; but not till he 
had wounded the majority of his opponents, and 
killed thi'ee of Thorbjorn's churls. 

'' You are a brave fellow ! " said the Hook ; '' and 
never have I seen one of your age who fought so 
weU!" 



204: THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Then they went up to Grettir, who lay in a state 
of unconsciousness, without being able to make any 
resistance. 

They dealt him many a blow, but little blood 
flowed from the wounds. When all thought that he 
was dead, Thorbjorn tried to disengage the sword 
from his cold, damp fingers, saying that Grettir had 
wielded it long enough. 

But the strong man's hand was clinched around 
the hand so firmly, that his enemy could not free the 
sword from his grasp. 

Several of the men came up, and endeavored to 
unweave the fingers, but they were unable to do so. 
Then the Hook exclaimed, '^ Why should we spare 
this vile outlaw ? off with his hand ! " and they held 
it down, whilst he hewed it from the arm, at the 
wrist. Then the muscles of the fingers relaxed ; and 
the Hook was able to loosen them, and possess hhn- 
self of the sword. Standing beside the body, and 
grasping the hilt with both hands, he smote at Gret- 
tir's head : the edge of the blade was notched with 
the blow. '' See ! " laughed Thorbjorn : '' this mark 
will be famous in the history of my sword. I shall 
show the notch, and say, ' This was done by Gret- 
tir 's skull ! ' " He smote twice and thrice at the 
outlaw's neck, till the head came off in his hands. 

'' Here have I slain a famous warrior! " exclaimed 
Thorbjorn : " this head shall come with me to land, 
that I may claim the price that has been set upon it, 
and that none may be able to deny that I slew the 
redoubted Grettir." 

The rest of the party told him to do as he chose, 



ILLUGL 205 

but they did not think much of his act ; for they be- 
lieved Grettir to have been dead before Thorbjorn 
smote at his head, and they suspected that he had 
wrought his foe's sickness and death by unhallowed 
means. 

Then the Hook turned to lUugi, saying, '' It 
would be a pity that a brave lad like you should die, 
because you have associated yourself with outlaws 
and evil-doers." 

lUugi answered, '' At Althing you shall be sum- 
moned to give an account of this cursed deed, and 
answer to the charge of witchcraft, which I shall 
bring against you if I live." 

" Listen to me, boy," said the Hook. " Lay your 
hand to my hand, and take a vow never to revenge 
that which has taken place to-night, and I will give 
you life and liberty." 

'' And listen to me, Thorbjorn," replied lUugi. 
"If I survive, but one thought shall occupy my 
heart, night and day ; and that will be, how I can 
best avenge my brother. Now that you know what 
to expect from me, choose whether I shall hve or 
die." 

Thorbjorn took his companions aside to ask their 
advice ; but they shrugged their shoulders, and re- 
plied that, as he had planned the expedition, he must 
carry it through as he thought best. 

" Well," exclaimed the Hook, " I have no fancy 
for having the young viper ready to sting me wher- 
ever I tread. So he shall die." 

Now, when Illugi knew that they had determinec^ 
on slaying him, he smiled, and said, — 

18 



206 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

"You have chosen tliat course whicli is most to 
my mind." 

As the day began to dawn, they led him to the 
east side of the island, and slew him there. It is 
said that they neither bound his hands nor eyes, and 
that he looked fearlessly at them as they smote him, 
and neither winked, nor changed color. Then they 
buried the brothers beneath a cairn ; but they took 
the head of Grettir, and bore it with them to land. 

As they rowed home, the thrall. Glaum, made 
such outcries that they were tired of his noise ; and 
on reaching the mainland they slew him. 

One morning Thorbjorn Hook rode with twenty 
men to Bjarg, in the Middle Frith, with Grettir's 
head hanging at his saddle-bow. On reaching the 
house he dismounted, and stalked into the hall, 
where Grettir's mother was seated with her servant. 
Thorbjorn flung her son's head at her feet, and 
sang, — 

*' Flitted I from the island, 
With me the head of Grettir ; 
That yellow head, which women 
Weep ; with it I am standing. 
Look you ! the peace-destroyer's 
Head lyeth on the pavement ; 
Look yon ! it cannot moulder 
Now that it well is salted. ' ' 

The lady sat proudly in her seat, and did not shed 
a tear ; but, hfting her voice in reply, she sang, — 

** Milksop ! no less than sheep 
Flee before the fox. 
Would you have fled before 
Grettir strong and hale ! " 



THE OLD SAGAS. 207 

After this the Hook returned home ; and folk won- 
dered at Asdisa, saying that none but she could have 
borne such sons as those twain who slept in Oran- 
gey. 

In a note received from Prof. Jon Bjarnasson, he 
says of the famous national hero of Iceland, Grettir 
the Strong, '' He is at this time a very interesting 
character in the public opinion there. The common 
people believe in fate that marks this Saga ; and all 
the best minds of our national literature will always 
suggest the philosophic, melancholic, but also jovial 
character of the hero highly beloved." 

With reluctance we leave the old Sagas, especially 
with a recently imported copy at hand of Dr. Dasent's 
" Burnt Njal. " The intensely tragic narrative resem- 
bles that of Grettir, but is more complete, more 
extended, as a picture of life in Iceland nine cen- 
turies ago. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

The Christian Era in Iceland. —The Gathering at Thingvalla. — The 
High Debate. — The Thunder of a Convulsion. — The Great De- 
cision. — Golden Age. — Skalds. — An Icelandic Skald at Canute*s 
Court. — Written Constitution. — A Challenge. — Nithing. 

IT is a summer day of year 1000, and Iceland was 
never so deeply moved through all its borders as 
now. A throng, larger than ever gathered before in 
Thingvalla, is defiling into it on this calm afternoon. 
Down the precipitous entrance of the Almanne-Gja, 
and the causeway of the Rafne, the processions 
emerge into the grand audience-room built by fire. 
The chiefs with their attendants, and the wealthy 
landholders on their richly caparisoned horses, suc- 
ceed each other. On horseback and afoot, the poorer 
classes pour into the broad valley. Tents and booths 
rapidly go up on the patches of grass, and on the 
dark stone floor. The scene is impressive and ani- 
mated. An anticipated debate possesses interest 
reaching far beyond the duration of the munition of 
rocks around the excited throng. 

The leading men of the nation cross the narrow 
bridge which leads into tTie enclosure of legislation. 
The assembly is formally opened, amid the stillness 
and grandeur of Jehovah's temple, where an issue is 
to be made between his claims and Odin's. 

208 



CHRISTIAN CONVERTS, 209 

Among the people, some had never renounced 
Thor, the principal god of the north, before Odin 
supplanted him from the East ; others had abandoned 
idols altogether ; and each household had pretty- 
much its own way, in forms of worship. 

Ingolf's grandson, Thorkill, when he felt death 
was near, desired to be carried into the open air, 
where the cheerful light might gladden his eyes 
while looking their last upon the loved mountain- 
tops, and there commend his spirit to Him who 
created them, and, high above them, the sun, moon, 
and stars. 

In their voyages to England and Denmark, Ice- 
landers had seen and accepted Christian rites, as 
then observed; but like the idolatrous Hebrews 
three thousand years before, who mixed their devo- 
tions so absurdly, upon their return home they wor- 
shipped again Odin or Thor. 

The latter part of the tenth century, Thorwald, a 
bold sea-rover, ''who had been baptized on the banks 
of the Elbe by a German priest," brought him to 
Iceland, the first missionary from the continent. 
This was under the presidency of Thorkil Manni. 

The stranger had some success, and was followed, 
a few years later, by priests from Norway. 

They were sent out by King Olaf, who was zealous 
in the propagation of the faith among the colonies 
from his realm. 

Among them were two Icelandic converts, who 
had been compelled to go abroad, on account of 
their active part in the introduction of the new re- 
ligion. 

18* 



210 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

But an ancient idolatry would not easily die, 
resisting instinctively all attacks upon its life. 

To appease the gods, its devotees determined to 
offer to them two human sacrifices from each of the 
four quarters of Iceland. It is related that the mis- 
sionaries, to display as great a zeal, decided to seal 
their own faith with the blood of four martyrs. 

Thorgeir, the Logosmodr, appealed to both parties 
to stop on the edge of civil war, before they wrought 
destruction and ruin. 

The stirring address produced conviction, which 
ripened into a truce ; and they returned to their 
places in the Althing, to submit their cause to the 
great assembly. 

In the midst of the high debate, a messenger 
enters Thingvalla with the tidings of a volcanic 
eruption near, whose thunders shake the earth. 

'^ Behold! the gods are angry because we question 
their power and right to our homage ! " exclaims a 
worshipper of Odin. He pauses, and Snorre Gode 
hurls back the charge, by asking, '' What excited 
their. wrath when these rocks of lava, which we 
ourselves tread, were a glowing torrent?" The 
splendid retort, with the appeal which followed, 
thrilled the assembly, and turned the tide of feeling 
decisively towards the altars of a Christian, although, 
through human traditions, a superstitious devotion. 
The doom of a pure idolatry was sealed from that 
hour; the temples of Odin and of Thor crumbled 
before the hands that reared them ; and the Bible and 
prayer-book supplanted their ancient mythology. 

PubUc idol-worship was forbidden, on penalty of 



THE GOLDEN AGE. 211 

banishment ; but liberty in private worship per- 
mitted, and the continued eating, of horse-flesh, and 
the exposure of infants. These '' innocents " were 
left to die, to prevent an increase of population be- 
yond the means of subsistence. But both practices 
gradually disappeared. Duels, protected by the laws 
of the wild vikings of early years, who decided 
disputes with the sword, alone on some solitary is- 
land, could not bear the light of even a corrupted 
Christianity, and were also abolished. 

The centuries following the introduction of Chris- 
tianity were the golden age of the republic. Under 
the protection of its patriarchal-republican form of 
government, the people studiously cultivated their 
native dialect, and collected the literary fragments 
of their ancestors. Unlike other European nations, 
whose literature, at the dawn of it, was a servile 
imitation of the Roman and Greek classics, the Ice- 
landers, with a singular independence of intellectual 
character, created one of their own. They gave the 
world an original literature, before the more favored 
south in material resources, had commenced the 
revival of learning. 

Of this, the golden age of Icelandic history, Adam 
of Bremen speaks as follows : '' Thus spending 
in simplicity a holy life, since they seek for nothing 
beyond what nature yields, the Icelanders can cheer- 
fully say with the apostle, ' Having food and raiment, 
let us be therewith content.' For they have their 
mountains for towns, and springs for delights. Happy, 
I say, the race whose poverty no one envies ; and 
happiest in this, that they have now all received 



212 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Christianity. There are many remarkable points 
among their customs, especially charity ; from which 
it comes, that, with them, all things are common both 
to strangers as well as to natives. For a king they 
have their bishop, and to his nod all the people at- 
tend : whatever he has laid down, whether from God 
or from Scripture, or from the customs of other na- 
tions, that they have for law." 

Like the bards of classic story, the skalds, or poets, 
of Iceland, were its best historians. Travelling 
minstrels, they visited other countries, weaving into 
their strains the myths, traditions, and real history 
of their own and kindred nations. They became the 
ambassadors of the age, and were honored in palaces, 
like the laureates of a later period. One of these 
saved his life, while imprisoned in England, by his 
song of twenty strophes, or stanzas, in praise of the 
tyrant into whose power he fell. Another from 
Iceland, Snorro relates, kept at the court of Canute, 
composed a poem in honor of the king, and went to 
his banqueting-hall to recite it ; offering, as an 
apology for his apparent haste to be heard, that 
it was '' very short." The monarch fixed upon him 
his falcon eye, and sternly said, '' Are you not 
ashamed to do what none but yourself has dared, — 
to write a short poem upon me ? Unless, by the hour 
of dinner to-morrow, you produce thirty strophes, 
your life shall pay the penalty." 

The skald was equal to the occasion ; and next day, 
instead of the executioner's blade, he received thirty 
marks of silver. These incidents show us the world's 
loss of numberless '' flowers of poetry, which sprang 
up and bloomed amidst eternal snows." 



A WRITTEN CONSTITUTION. 213 

There were female skalds, as there were warriors, 
who made no mean figure in the vindication of the 
right, re-asserted nowadays, to cope with the '' lords 
of creation," in every field of action. 

A very strong reason, and easily understood, why 
the skalds adhered more closely to actual history 
than poets of the south, is found in their having the 
whole field to themselves. In the warmer climes, 
the priesthood were the chroniclers, and the minstrels 
had to depend mainly upon creations of the imagina- 
tion for their themes. According to an ancient MS., 
Iceland's poets, long ago, numbered two hundred and 
thirty, many of them honored at foreign courts. 

Two centuries and a half, Ulfljot's form of govern- 
ment was perpetuated only by tradition. Annually 
Thingvalla echoed to the repetition of it by the 
Logosmodr, from the Hill of Laws. This gives pecu- 
liar interest to the republic, the preservation of so 
great a degree of constitutional freedom for centu- 
ries, without a word of it printed or written. 

There is nothing like it in the annals of the past ; 
and, whatever defects there were, it was the best 
thing liberty-loving and gifted men had given to the 
world. So loyal were the people, that the number 
of years each chief magistrate held the high office 
became a distinct epoch ; and its anniversary quite as 
important, in their estimation, as to us is the recur- 
rence of the presidential election. 

It was not till 1117, under Beigthor Rafin, who 
summoned to his aid the ablest lawyers of the time 
in its preparation, that Iceland had a written consti- 
tution. 



214 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

Early in the twelfth century, the most learned 
men began to collect and write the poems and tradi- 
tions which had come down from human lips alone, 
in their own uncorrupted dialect. This is a strange 
and extraordinary thing ; adhering exclusively to 
their own vernacular, while as a written, then a 
spoken language, it was fading out in those kingdoms 
from which it had been transplanted. 

What glory for that sea-girdled, far-away country, 
to give to Europe the first national literature, under 
the earliest government which could be justly called 
republican ! The Icelander's very weapons of com- 
bat were oftener his fertile brain, than his sword or 
lance or battle-axe. 

The lampoon of the skald, or poet, and the bitter 
sarcasm, were more dreaded than weapons of steel, 
by the object of hate. 

And, even when an injured party wanted to fight, 
he would publicly brand his foe ''nithing," or a vil- 
lain. Thus disgraced, he must wash out the stain 
with blood. A little story will show how they man- 
aged this matter. Two old warriors sent a challenge 
to two others, to meet them at a place and time des- 
ignated. The day came amid one of those terrific 
storms that sometimes lift pedestrians from their feet. 
But JokuU, one of the challenged, was on the spot 
at the hour with nobody to fight him. He had, how- 
ever, liis revenge upon Finbogi, his enemy. He took 
a block of wood, shaped it into the resemblance of a 
human head, wrote on it runic letters, and, after kill- 
ing a horse, opened the animal's breast, and fastened 
it in the wound, pointing towards the home of Fin- 



TEE NITEING-POST, 215 

bogi. This was the '' nithing-post," to which the 
duelUst resorted, to make his adversary own himself 
a coward, or seek a deadly meeting. The moral de- 
scendant of the heathen gentleman has only changed 
the battle-axe to pistols, and the '' nithing-post " to 
'' The Morning Post," or some other journal of a 
higher civilization. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

The Northmeii's Oldest Book of History. — Genius in Iceland. ~ The 
Illustrious Trio. —First Prin ting-Press. —First School. —Bill of 
Students' Fare. — Study of Poetry. — Its Fabled Origin. 

SIXTY-SEVEN years after the national council, 
and its great decision at Thingvalla, under the 
shadow of lofty jokuUs near the Great Geyser, was 
born Ari the Wise. 

Of his early life we know nothing further, nor 
where he is buried. His monument is the North- 
men's most ancient book of history, — the Land- 
nama-Bok, or general annals of Iceland from its 
settlement, giving a full account of its real-estate 
operations. 

Saemund the Learned, who was born in 1056, and 
studied theology in Germany and France, first col- 
lected and published in a volume the mythological 
songs he found in manuscripts, and heard from the 
lips of minstrel skalds. He added some of his own 
compositions, which have in them the leaven of that 
Christianity for which he had renounced the heathen- 
ism of his fathers. This was the poetic, or Elder 
Edda, from which the extracts on Scandinavian 
paganism were taken. 

But the last of the grand trio of Iceland's earliest 
authors is Snorro Sturleson. His illustrious ances- 

216 




^HE GREAT GEYSER. — Page 251. 



SNORRO STURLESON, 217 

tors went back to the fabled dynasties of Norway's 
royalty. 

South from Reykjavik an hour's ride is Bessestad. 
The path is paved, as everywhere, with lava, the 
yawning chasms bridged with rock, and the gleam- 
ing summits leaning against the transparent sky. 
Bessestad was the most ancient seat of learning in 
Iceland. What utter seclusion ! Before it is spread 
an oasis of grass, and behind it bleak moorland, and 
the ever-moaning sea. Near it is a solid and gigan- 
tic mo and of upheaved lava-rock, making a near 
horizon, with its unchanging curve of iron. 

For no green thing ever adorns it, or flower smiles 
upon the desolation. You are alone with memories 
of the ages, with Nature, and Nature's God. Here 
lived Snorro Sturleson. 

This is the man to whom his country's history and 
literature are most indebted ; whose great historical 
work justly earned for him the title of the Northern 
Herodotus. 

He was born in the year 1178, at Kvamm, on the 
Kvamsfjord, a small bay on the western coast of Ice- 
land. 

His father, Sturla, was a distinguished chieftain in 
that part of the island; and his mother was con- 
nected, as well, with the most illustrious families of 
the island. 

At the early age of three years, Snorro was placed 
under the guardianship of Jon Loptson, who in- 
herited both the wealth Q.nd learning of his grand- 
father, Saemund Sigfusson. 

Here young Snorro remained till twenty years of 

19 



218 « THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

age, and received a finished education, both in the 
Greek and Roman literature, and in that of his native 
country. 

'' Having access to all the manuscript and other col- 
lections of Saemund and Ari Frode, relating to the 
poetry, history, and mythology of the heathen north, 
he was- placed at what might be called, in their own 
poetical language, the fountain of Mimir, the source 
of inspiration, where he might exclaim, — 

*I sat and was silent, 
I saw and reflected/ 
I listened to that whicli was told/ 

" On the death of his tutor, Snorro left Odd^, and 
married the daughter of a rich priest at Borg, on the 
Borgafiord, where he increased his small patrimonial 
inheritance with a fortune of four thousand rix dol- 
lars, a large sum for that age and country." 

By the death of his father, he added to his fortune 
Borg Reykholt, and other valuable estates ; thus 
becoming, in a short time, by far the richest man on 
the island. 

His immense wealth and genius, address and elo- 
quence, gave him corresponding power and influence 
in the community. 

He occasionally appeared in the Althing, or gen- 
eral national assembly, with a retinue of several 
hundred armed followers. 

He made impregnable, by fortifications, his subse- 
quent residence on the farm of Reykholt, in the 
midst of the wonderful volcanic region of the south- 
west coast. This place he also improved, and embel- 



BNORRO ST U RLE SON. 219 

lislied with useful and ornamental works, of wliicli 
one only, the celebrated Snorra-laug (Snorro-bath), 
remains, after the lapse of six centuries, a proud 
monument of his ingenuity and munificence. The hot 
water for this bath is supplied from a natural fountain 
of boiling water, five hundred feet to the north, in a 
morass undermined by subterranean fires, where are 
many boiling springs. It is conveyed by means of 
an aqueduct of hewn stones, perfectly fitted to- 
gether, and joined by a fine cement. The bath is 
circular in form, about fifteen feet in diameter, and 
built of hewn stones, cemented together in the same 
exact manner. The fioor is paved with the kind of 
stone which composes the aqueduct, and a circular 
stone bench, capable of holding upwards of thirty 
persons, surrounds the inside of the bath. 

Snorro was raised, in the year 1213, by the free 
choice of the people, to the position of chief magis- 
trate of the island; in which post he was distin- 
guished for his profound knowledge of the laws and 
civil institutions of his native country. 

He visited Norway, where he was most honorably 
received by the Norwegian Jarls. The warmth of 
his reception was doubtless owing to the favor with 
which a eulogistic lay upon Hakon Galin, a Jarl of 
Norway, had been received in his own country, as 
well as by Hakon himself, to whom a copy was sent. 

He composed several eulogies on the king and 
nobles of Norway, which procurred him many rich 
and costly gifts from the flattered personages, also 
the title of Drdttseti^ or court marshal, with the rank 
of Leensmand^ or royal vassal ; which last was con- 



220 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

ferred in order to promote the designs wMcli the 
Norwegians had conceiyed against the independence 
of Iceland. 

After Snorro's return to his native country, he 
was involved in a labyrinth of deadly feuds, some 
of which he had inherited from his ancestors, and 
others had been kindled by his own turbulence, 
ambition, and avarice. 

Scenes of ferocious violence followed, during 
which the republic was rent with contending fac- 
tions ; though that of Snorro, through the zeal and 
fidelity of his partisans, frequently gained the as- 
cendency, thus enabling him to gratify his lofty 
ambition. The hatred of his enemies at length 
forced him to take refuge in Norway. There he was 
loaded with honors and favors ; but, upon receiving 
favorable intelligence from Iceland, he obtained per- 
mission to return to his native country. As he was 
on the point of embarking, he received letters from 
the king, positively forbidding his departure. This 
prohibition he disregarded, and arrived safely in Ice- 
land. Here he was again involved in fierce contro- 
versies, and shortly afterwards fell a victim to the 
deadly hatred of his enemies. King Hakon had 
sent secret instructions to Thorvaldsen, a relative of 
the king, who had formerly been Snorro's son-in-law 
and intimate friend, to seize on his person, and bring 
him to Norway, or to put him to death. 

The latter alternative was preferred by Thorvald- 
sen, who was lured by revenge, and the great wealth 
of Snorro, to assassinate him. It is remarkable, that, 
though Snorro was admonished by a letter, written 



DEATH OF 8N0RR0. 221 

in runic characters, of his danger, that neither he, 
who was deeply versed in this lore, nor any of his 
friends, could decipher this letter. 

Thorvaldsen collected a band of armed men from 
a clan hostile to Snorro, and basely murdered him at 
Eeikholt, on the night of the 22d of September, 1241. 

Thus perished, at the age of sixty-three years, 
Snorro Sturleson, illustrious by his birth, his talents, 
and attainments ; but, according to the concurrent 
testimony of his contemporaries, stained with un- 
principled ambition, avarice, faithlessness, and every 
other vice that dishonors and degrades human nature. 

The bald-monks in convents had locked up only a 
few works in ''poor Latin," when Snorro gave to 
Iceland and the Continent the flowing sentences of 
his fascinating annals. But his greatest work was 
the Younger Edda, which contains the whole system 
of mythology. 

He reminds us of Lord Bacon in the possession of 
rarest abilities and attainments, yet poisoned with a 
selfish ambition, which led to a tragical death, and 
left his splendid genius and attainments under its 
enduring eclipse. 

About the title Edda, there is some dispute among 
the learned ; the prevailing opinion being, that it is 
figurative in its use, from the old Norse, which means 
great-grandmother. 

The Edda, then, is the venerable mother of Ice- 
landic Uterature. The Elder Edda is a collection of 
thirty-nine poems, principally upon the mythology 
of the Northmen. The oldest and most interesting 
of these is the '' Song of the Prophetess ; " of which, 

19* 



222 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

in the chapter on the gods and worship of the sea- 
rovers, a good illustration was given. 

The period of the old literature ended about the 
era of the Reformation, from which dates the mod- 
ern. For more than a century succeeding A. D. 
1400, scarcely any thing in prose appeared. 

The very first specimen of modern Icelandic liter- 
ature was the translation of the New Testament, 
A. D. 1540, followed by Hymns and Psalms, and 
then the entire Bible. With the closing century, a 
fresh historical literature dawned brightly upon the 
island. 

In poetry, the first creation, and the " flower of Ice- 
landic poetry, was the Passitj-Salmar, or fifty 
Passion Hymns, by Hallgrim Peturson, who was born 
in 1614, and died 1674." Thirty editions have been 
printed. The Hola-bok of the people was the 
Hymn Book of the Reformation. Eight popular 
poets followed at intervals ; the last of whom, Sig- 
urd Breidfjord, died in 1846. Of living poets, we 
shall have beautiful effusions in the closing chapter 
on the Great Millennial Jubilee. Harmes Frimsson 
in 1794-6 published, in two volumes, a work for 
children, with the title of Kvoldvokur, or Wakeful 
Evenings. 

During these centuries of Iceland's prosperity, 
flocks and herds increased, fisheries prospered, and 
ships laden with wadmal (a coarse cloth), furs, skins, 
oil, tallow, fish, and eider-down, were sent to Eng- 
land and Norway, bringing back meal, timber, steel, 
fine cloths, and carpets. 

Icelandic tourists visited the capitals of distant 



SCHOOLS. 223 

kingdoms, sometimes extending their travels to Con- 
stantinople and Palestine. They were '' lionized " 
on their return, and were central figures in all social 
gatherings, rehearsing to eager listeners the story of 
their adventures. 

Among the volcanic ruins of Iceland, during its 
greatest prosperity, nearly one hundred thousand 
people, it is supposed, were living ; with more than 
half a million of sheep, fifty thousand horses, and 
nearly as many oxen. Now, probably, not over two- 
thirds of these numbers are upon the island. 

An old galley, in the summer of 1530, bore the first 
printing-press to Iceland, introduced by the Bishop 
of Hoolum, on the northern border of the island. 
The types were of wood, and rude enough, — an awk- 
ward machine for making thought visible ; but it was 
the dawn of the power of the press, upon that land 
so worthy of its rising glory. This bishop a score 
of years later, with his son, were beheaded for crimes 
attending violent opposition to the Reformation. 
This form of execution became the legal one, but 
has for a long time ceased to be employed, because no 
one could be found on the island to accept the office 
of executioner. The successor of Arc, a man of 
greater culture, purchased new presses, and made 
others with his own hands from these models. 

Iceland, therefore, has the additional honor of 
manufacturing one of the first presses in Northern 
Europe, and the very first by consecrated hands. 

Iceland's earliest Christian school for classical cul- 
ture is said to have been Haudkadir, near the Great 
Geyser, where Saemund studied, who afterwards es- 



224 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

tablished a similar institution at Oddi. To this last 
fact some trace the name of Edda. Bishop Isleif 
opened the tliird at Skalhold in 1105. This group 
of cottages has figured on the maps as the capital of 
Iceland. There was another school established at 
Holar, in connection with its cathedral. Next Reyk- 
javik became the seat of learning, which was 
transferred to Bessestad, and finally removed to the 
capital, where it now remains. 

Without describing the narrow, close commons for 
the young men, we copy only two days' bill of fare ; 
enough to prove conclusively that they were not 
hindered in their studies by excessive indulgence in 
the good things of the table. 

On Sunday morning, before the students went to 
church, they had a light lunch, as an exception to 
the usual two meals per day. The diet doubtless has 
not very much changed. At mid-day : first course, 
stock-fish and butter ; second course, meat-broth, 
but, if this cannot be had, peas with meat. In the 
evening (which in winter is several hours after dark) : 
first, stock-fish and butter; second, barley-water 
grout, with milk and butter. Saturday, mid-day: 
stock-fish and butter ; warm sausages. Evening : 
stock-fish and butter ; curd with milk. 

The study of poetry, the youth were required to 
pursue, however prosy their own mental taste. The 
theory^ if not the practice, of the divine art, must be 
mastered. 

Very singular is the mythological origin of this 
gift ! Two warrior-gods made treaty by spitting into 
a common receptacle, and its contents formed the 



THE GIFT OF THE GODS. 225 

the wisest of men. He was slain by two dwarfs, who 
from his blood, and honey, created the divine elixir. 
This Odin got by finding the cave in which it was 
secreted, and, changing into a worm, crept in by a hole 
made through the connivance of the fair keeper ; then 
changed his form to that of an eagle, and flew away 
with the treasure drawn into his bill. And so it is 
the " gift of the gods." 



CHAPTER XXin. 

Music. — Education in Common Life. — Preamble of Public Ad- 
dress. — Modern Authors. — The Lord's Prayer in 1585 and in 
■ 1874. — National Suicide. — The Keformation. 

NATIVE Icelandic music is embalmed in sacred 
tunes, whose manuscripts are preserved in pri- 
vate libraries. The art was once taught upon the 
island. 

They have, too, an original instrument still found 
in inland homes. It is the langspiel, slightly re- 
sembhng a guitar lying edgewise, having three brass- 
wire strings, played by bow and fingers. The tones, 
at a distance, are not unlike those of a piano. 

Although music and poetry are less cultivated 
than formerly by the Icelanders, both are yet strik- 
ingly visible in their national life and literature. 

On public occasions their ascriptions of praise 
still sound forth with great power, always with the 
undertone of that solemnity inspired by every thing 
around them. It is not singular, therefore, that 
sacred poetry should be in the ascendant among such 
a people. Their compositions of this kind would 
make a small library ; among which David and Paul 
are inspiring themes. 

We may have one of the pleasant surprises com- 
mon to tourists in Iceland, if we call upon the 

226 



ICELANDIC PRAYER. 227 

weather-beaten fisherman, Zoega, Avhose little boat 
rocks upon the waves, while he drops his line for 
hours together, amid storm and sunshine, to secure a 
scanty supply of food for his lava-sheltered family. 
We cannot speak Icelandic ; so Zoega tries the pur- 
est Latin : if he fails here, he may resort to Greek, 
certainly to Danish, or some other modern tongue. 
Or pause before that smithy, where another plain, 
poor man hammers out, in small jobs, his hvelihood. 
His salutation is in elegant Latin. These are literal 
descriptions of interviews with men whose dress 
and surroundings form a contrast seen only in Ice- 
land. Vfhat they know of our English literature 
is learned mainly through the Danish and German 
tongues, in which are read Milton, Addison, Pope, 
Young, and other standard authors. 

For some centuries past, it has been customary 
among the Icelanders, during the period of any great 
volcanic eruption, to appoint a day of united prayer 
and supplication. This was first done in the north- 
ern parts of the island in 1477, when a general as- 
sembly of the inhabitants of the district was con- 
vened. The following is the preamble to the ad- 
dress, preserved in old Latin, in their archives : — 

*' In the name of God, amen ! On the first day of 
March (the last month of winter), in the year of the 
Lord 1477, the clergy and laity who lived between 
Vargaa and Gleraa assembled at Griind in Eyafiord, 
and there held a conference concerning the terror- 
inspiring wonders which were troubling the people 
in those days ; to wit, the fires bursting forth, the 
sand and ashes which had fallen and been spread far 



228 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

and wide, the darkness, and the dreadful hissings. 
On account of these portents, the flocks and herds 
had been robbed of their food, though the earth was 
free from snow. 

" The assembly agreed that surely this had hap- 
pened to punish the sins and misdoings of men ; 
wherefore they all thought that they should seek 
favor and pity where these graces abound, — with 
God himself, so that he should will to turn away 
from them the consequences of his anger. They 
promised, therefore, that they would not seek further 
to avert his punishments in this world ; and, that he 
might not close the kingdom of heaven to them, 
they declared their choice that God, the Omniscient, 
the Omnipotent, he who willed those things which 
were best, should be their protector for time present 
and time to come. First they paid their vows to the 
all-powerful God." 

To those who are curious to see how httle change 
the centuries have made in the language, we quote 
the Icelandic Lord's Prayer in 1585, and also in 
1874:— ' 

Lobd's Pbayer in 1585. 

'' Fader vor, thu sem ert d himnum. Helgist thitt 
nafn. Tilkome thitt rike. Verde thinn vilie, so a 
jordhu sem a himne. Gief oss i dag vort dagligh 
braudh. Og fyrerlat oss vorar skuUder, so sem vier 
fyrerlatum vorum skulldunautum. Og innleidh oss 
ecke 1 freistne. Heldur frelsa thu oss fra illu, thvfat 
thitt er rikit, matturenn og dyrdhen um allder allda. 
Amen." 



MODERN AUTHQES. 229 

Loed's Peayer liT 1874. 

" Fadir vor, thu sem ert a himnum. Helgist thitt 
nafn. Tilkommi thitt riki. Verdi thinn Yilji, svo a 
jordu sem a himni. Gef thu oss i dag vort daglegt 
brand. Og fyrirgef oss vorar skuldir, svo sem vjer 
og fyrer-gefum vorum skuldnautum. Og leid oss 
ekki i freistni. Helldur frelsa oss fra illu; thyiad 
tliitt er riked og matturinn og dyrdin um aldir alda. 
Amen." 

The progress of neighboring nations, during the 
centuries, very greatly changed the relative impor- 
tance and pre-eminence of Iceland ; and '' the flame 
which was again kindled among the people shone 
dimly beneath the splendors of the sun of science 
which had now risen over the kingdoms of Europe." 

Among the new and splendid lights which ap- 
peared during this period, was Gudbrand Thor- 
lakson. Bishop of Holar. He completed his edu- 
cation at Copenhagen ; and among his intimate 
friends was the famous astronomer Tycho Brahe. 
His bishopric extended over fifty-six years.; and his 
devotion to educational interests, including the 
printing establishments, was unwearied. Nearly one 
hundred works were written and published by him. 
He gave his people the first translation of the entire 
Bible in their owji tongue, and also published the 
Icelandic code of laws. 

Among modern authors. Assessor Benedik Gron- 
dal, judge in the higher court over half a century 
since, published a large number of translations and 
original poems ; his elegant satires on the vices and 

20 



230 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

follies of his countiijniLen being suppressed by a law 
forbidding the lampooning, i^vhich was so dreaded 
a weapon of revenge in olden times. 

Chief-Justice Stephenson, president, sixty years 
ago, of a literary society, would eclipse the majority 
of writers in any land, in the variety and scholarly 
character of his works. We add the titles of a few 
of his twenty volumes: "Treatise on Mefeors," 
'' Amusements for Friends," '' Volcanic Eruptions," 
" Hymns and Psalms for Churches," " Treatise on 
Fuse," " Treatise on Cattle and Horses." 

To the cathedral, as it is called, at Holar, in the 
northern district, an elaborately-sculptured baptismal 
font was presented by the family of Thorwaldsen in 
memoriam of the great artist, who was a native of 
the island. It has been removed to the church at 
Reykjavik. 

Among his countrymen, there has been nothing to 
stimulate and develop sculpture and painting ; nor 
could materials for either be had without an expense 
quite beyond their limited means, with few excep- 
tions. 

That far-reaching religious revolution, set in mo- 
tion by Luther, reached Iceland from Denmark early 
in the sixteenth century. Christian HI., who had 
made Lutheran Christianity the national rehgion of 
his realm, determined to extend the blessing to his 
provinces. He was resisted by the priesthood, among 
w^hom Areson, Bishop of Holar, organized an armed 
force, and was beheaded with his sons. 

After his death, in 1550, the Lutheran Church be- 
came the national form of Protestant worship in Ice- 



THE ICELANDIC LANGUAGE. 231 

land. A new life was breathed into the nation, and 
learning received a fresh impulse. 

Iceland has mo'destly waited long for her high place 
in the regard of scholars, but her day dawns apace. 
Writes our republican poet-laureate, H. W. Long- 
fellow, — . 

'' The Icelandic language is as remarkable as the 
Anglo-Saxon for its abruptness, its obscurity, and 
the boldness of its metaphors. Poets are called 
Songsmiths ; poetry, the Language of the Gods ; 
gold, the Daylight of Dwarfs ; the heavens, the Skull 
of Ymer; the rainbow, the Bridge of the Gods; a 
battle, a Bath of Blood, the Hail of Odin, the Meet- 
ing of Shields ; the tongue, the Sword of Words ; 
river, the Sweat of Earth, the Blood of the Valleys ; 
arrows, the Daughters of Misfortune, the Hailstones 
of Helmets ; the earth, the Vessel that floats on the 
Ages ; the sea, the Field of Pirates ; a ship, the 
Skate of Pirates, the Horse of the Waves. The an- 
cient skald (bard) smote the strings of his harp 
with as bold a hand as the Berserk smote his foe. 
When heroes fell in battle, he sang to them in his 
Drapa, or death-song, that they had gone to drink 
' divine mead in the secure and tranquil palaces of 
the gods,' in that Valhalla upon whose walls stood 
the watchman Heimdal, whose ear was so acute that 
he could hear the grass grow in the meadows of 
earth, and the wool on the backs of sheep. He lived 
in a credulous age, — in the dim twilight of the past. 
He was 

* The skylark in the dawn of years, 
The poet of the morn/ 



232 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

In the vast solitudes of Norway, the heart of Nature 
beat against his own. From the midnight gloom of 
groves, the deep-voiced pines answered the deeper- 
voiced and neighboring sea. To his ear these were 
not the voices of dead, but living things. Demons 
rode the ocean like a weary steed, and the gigantic 
pines flapped their sounding wings to smite the 
spirit of the storm. 

'' StiU wilder and fiercer were these influences of 
Nature in desolate Iceland, than on the mainland of 
Scandinavia. Fields of lava, icebergs, geysers, and 
volcanoes, were famfliar sights. When the long 
winter came, and the snowy Hecla roared through 
the sunless air, and the flames of the northern au- 
rora flashed along the sky like phantoms from Val- 
halla, the soul of the poet was filled with images of 
terror and dismay. He bewailed the death of Bal- 
dur, the sun, and saw in each eclipse the horrid form 
of the wolf Managamer, who swallowed the moon, 
and stained the sky with blood." 

Lossing says, ''It is back to the Norwegian vi- 
kings we must look for the hardiest elements of prog- 
ress in the United States." 

The Howitts of England enthusiastically declare, 
" There is nothing, besides the Bible, which sits in a 
divine tranquillity of unapproachable nobility, hke a 
king of kings amongst all other books, and the poem 
of Homer itself, which can compare, in all the ele- 
ments of greatness, with the Edda. There is a lofti- 
ness of stature, and a growth of muscle, about it, 
which no poets of the same race have ever since 
reached. The obscurity which hangs over some 



INFLUENCE OF THE NORTHMEN, 233 

parts of it, like the deep shadows crouching 'mid the 
ruins of the past, is probably the result of dilapida- 
tions ; • but amid this stand forth the boldest masses 
of intellectual masonry. Springing from the old 
Norse of far-off time, surrounded by the densest 
shadows of forgotten ages, we come at once into 
the midst of gods and heroes, goddesses and fair 
women, giants and dwarfs, moving about in a world 
of wonderful construction." 

The great German poet Schlegel, after giving the 
highest place to Iceland's earliest literary produc- 
tions, adds, '*• The spiritual veneration for Nature, to 
which the sensual Greek was an entire stranger, 
gushes forth in their mysterious language and pro- 
phetic traditions, with a full tide of enthusiasm and 
inspiration, sufficient to endure for centuries, and to 
supply a whole race of future bards and poets with 
a precious and animating elixir." 

Writes Laing in his " Heimskringla : " ''For all 
that men hope for good of government, and future 
improvement in their physical and moral condition ; 
all that civilized men enjoy at this day of civil, reli- 
gious, and political liberty, — representative legisla- 
tion, the trial hj jury, security of property, freedom 
of mind and person, the influence of public opinion 
over the conduct of public affairs, the Reformation, 
the liberty of the press, the spirit of the age, — all 
that is or has been of value to man in modern times, 
as a member of society, either in Europe or in the 
New World, may be traced to the spark left burning 
on our shores by those northern barbarians." Adds 
Commander C. S. Forbes, R. N., ''As for the much- 

20* 



234 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

yaunted pre-eminence of the Anglo-Saxon race 
among the moderns, in intellect and in arms, which 
has passed into a stereotyped platitude with many of 
our countrjrmen, — why, the English branch of that 
race was as socially and morally degenerate, and as 
devoid of spirit and nationality, as its pres'ent direct 
representatives, the Germans, are at this moment, 
until the irruption of the cognate branch of Norse 
into our island, between the ninth and twelfth cen- 
turies; whose descendants, inheriting that precious 
viking energy, have since sown the earth with colo- 
nies." 

Other scholarly writers tell us, " The ancestors (at 
least morally) of Raleigh and Nelson, and Kane and 
Farragut, appear among these sea-rovers, whose pas- 
sion was danger and venture on the waters. Here, 
too, among such men as the ' Raven Floke,' is the 
prototype of those American pioneers who follow 
the wild birds into pathless wildernesses to found 
new republics. And it is the Norse ' udal ' property^ 
not the European feudal property^ which is the model 
for the America7i descendants of the ancient Norsemen. 

" Here we have no dissolute Pantheon, with gods 
revelling eternally in earthly vices, and the evils and 
wrongs of humanity continued forever. Gods and 
men die in the heat of the conflict ; and there sur- 
vives alone Baldur, the ' God of Love,' who shall 
create a new heaven and a new earth. 

" While German literature darkens under the 
malignant star of Deutschthum ; while French art, 
sickening of its long disease, crawls like a leper 
tlu-ough the light and wholesome world ; while all 



CHANGE IN THE GOVERNMENT. 235 

over the European Continent one wan influence or 
another asserts its despair-engendering sway over 
books and men, — whither shall a bewildered student 
fly for one deep breath of pure air and wholesome 
ozone ? 

" Turn northward, traversing the great valleys of 
Scandinavia, and not halting until you look upon 
' that slowly heaving Polar Ocean, over which, m 
the utmost north, the great sun hangs low.' " 

Suicide has been the epitaph of fallen nations. 
Iceland is no exception. The old Scandinavian 
blood, which chafed against any restraint or rivalry 
in political or social importance and power, lost none 
of its fire during three and a half centuries of free- 
dom. Deadly feuds, largely instigated and kept 
ahve by Norway, wearied the nation, and created a 
feeling bordering on desperation. 

In 1261, aided by Snorro Sturleson, a favorite at 
the Norwegian court, where he resided two years, 
Iceland gave her glory to another. The eastern 
portion, and, three years after, the western, quietly 
passed under the shadow of Hacon's throne; a 
shadow whose blight was imperceptible at first, but 
sure in its ultimate work. 

The people gave no visible signs of the great and 
bloodless change to the condition of dependence. 
They cherished educational institutions, and enjoyed 
general prosperity ; but Thingvalla's walls echoed no 
longer to the eloquence of freemen, acknowledging 
no sovereignty outside of their island-republic. 

We can only speculate upon the possible effect, in 
saving Iceland from hopeless decline, of a more vigor- 



236 TEE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

ous Christianity, unenfeebled by union with the 
state, which created and has preserved the American 
Republic for a century, and, if made controlling, will 
perpetuate it while governments exist. 

In the loss of power from this exhaustless source 
of re-enforcement, and quickening of all life, includ- 
ing the individual and public conscience, depress- 
ing conditions were the more influential ; and the 
ancient spirit of independence, whose original law- 
lessness and rivalries were its inspiration, dechned. 
The people ''yielded the more easily to the encroach- 
ments first of Norway, and then of Denmark, upon 
the rights at first reserved for themselves. The 
latter gradually disappeared, or were so curtailed 
that they barely continued to exist in form ; and 
about the year 1660 the island virtually lost every 
vestige of independence. Denmark's rule was abso- 
lute, and there was no appeal from it. Even the 
few traders appointed by the Danish government 
for the island, and allowed the entire monopoly of 
its commerce, were Danes, not Icelanders. The peo- 
ple grew steadily poorer, and powerless in propor- 
tion to their poverty. 

This state of things lasted, with slight variations, 
for nearly two centuries." 

As many have had no opportunity of becoming 
acquainted with Iceland's national religion, whose 
name is derived from the gifted and heroic leader in 
the great Reformation, it may interest them to read a 
brief outline of public worship, and the general 
status of the denomination. 

The ''Augsburg Confession" drawn up by Me- 



LUTHERANISM, 237 

lancthon, and approved by Luther, has been, and is, 
the acknowledged standard of doctrine. The mem- 
bership, in this country alone, is nearly half a mil- 
lion, with two thousand clergymen. They have a 
liturgy ; and the clergy, in their official duties, wear 
a robe, usually black. " The Church Year," with its 
great festivals, is kept. The hymns are sung by all 
the people, with organ accompaniment. The hymn- 
ology of the Lutheran Church surpasses that of all 
other churches in the world in sweetness, richness, 
power, and unction. Even in their English dress, 
there are few hymns more beautiful or soul-inspiring 
than Luther's '' A mighty Fortress is our God," or 
" O Head so bruised and wounded ! " or " Jerusalem 
the Golden." 



n 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

An Excursion to the Guldbringe Syssel, or Goldbringing District. — 
The Outfit. — Bessestad. — Boiling Springs. — An Unexplained 
-Wonder. — Guldbringe Syssel. — Stappen. — Reykholt. — Scenes 
along Paths of Travel. 

IT is six O'clock in the morning ; and yonder, at an 
easy pace which says, " I never hurry," comes the 
guide towards the only hotel at the capital, with 
his " shaggy cavalcade." And at last in earnest 
commences the packing away of tents, food, &c., upon 
the baggage-horses, whose number depends on the 
variety and quantity of those articles. Thes^e white, 
black, mottled, and intelligent animals cost from ten 
to thirty dollars each ; for the tourist usually buys to 
sell again when done with them. Such saddles ! 
they are seen nowhere else. Square pieces of spongy 
turf from the bogs are tied on the backs by a rope ; 
and on them is fastened a piece of wood fitted to the 
place. The ends project, with pegs in each, on which 
with woollen cords the load is hung. It is a nice 
operation to balance the burdens, and seldom done so 
well, that before travelling far they do not require 
re-adjustment. 

When all is ready, the animals are tied together 
head to tail, to prevent separation, and getting astray. 
At night, to keep them near the encampment, their 

238 



BES8BSTAD, 239 

heads and tails are tied together, forming a living 
ring of horse-flesh and tangled extremities. 

Away they scamper tandem, at the crack of their 
master's whip along the foot-highway. A harness 
never fetters their free motions, nor does the sound 
of carriage-wheels ever drown the noise of their iron- 
shod hoofs. 

The intelUgence of the ponies is not only seen in 
the almost superhuman caution on perilous roads, 
but, when he makes a tangent from the way, " Ho, 
ho ! " from the guide, brings the wanderer back. But 
it is understood between him and his master, that 
when they reach a stopping-place, if the reins are 
left upon his neck, he is at liberty to wander at will 
for pasture : if thrown on the grass, he does not ven- 
ture out of sight ; it is as if he had heard his rider 
say, " Pony, I shall want you shortly ; don't go 
away." The patient animal stands, it maybe, weary 
and hungry, waiting for his burden again. 

Every man in Iceland is his own blacksmith, and 
carries with him on long journeys the plain, simple 
shoes and nails, fitting them as they are needed. 

Six miles northward, through the wildest possible 
region of rocks, thrown into " all sorts of fantastic 
forms," making yawning chasms and caverns, the 
path leads to Havnifiord, sheltered by vast parallel 
ledges of rock, once destroying streams of fire. 

The next town is ancient Bessestad, where, for 
many years, was Iceland's only seat of learning, 
afterward removed to Reykjavik. No college in our 
own land makes a greater display of classical lore on 
examination-day than did famous Bessestad. 



240 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

A few miles beyond it, many years ago, a travelling 
party stumbled upon the bones and clothes, strewed 
around on the rocks, of a woman lost twelve months 
before, and of whom no tidings had been heard. The 
eagles and foxes had entirely consumed the flesh. 

There is a boiling spring not far distant, under a 
natural dome, where the cottagers in that part of the 
valley cook their food. What a saving in fuel, and 
in the getting and handhng of water ! 

But we are not done with wonders in the vales of 
Reykholt. A mile farther, and there is one unri- 
valled in the world. From the face of a rock rising 
twenty feet, and a hundred and fifty in length, burst 
sixteen boiling springs, two of which, during the 
ages, have played at hide-and-seek. 

From an opening, shoots up a column of water for 
a few moments, then suddenly is gone ; when from 
another orifice a similar jet, but smaller, immediately 
rises into the air. And thus at regular intervals, un- 
ceasingly, do these streams of hot water rise and fall. 

We know of no explanation of a performance in 
which a system of natural valves seems indispensa- 
ble. 

Boiling springs border at intervals the way, send- 
ing up white clouds of incense upon the startlingly 
silent air. 

At Krisuvik is the well-known Sulphur Mountain, 
whose slope is a grand manufactory of the article of 
commerce after which it is named ; a steaming, 
crystal-frosted, mud-boiling laboratory, equal to the 
wants of the world in the staple it produces. 

The most gifted observer has no language ade- 




CRATER-CHASM. — Page 239. 



WILD SCENERY, 241 

quate to portray the '' wonders and terrors of this 
place. The sensations of a person even of firm 
nerves, standing on a support wliich feebly sustains 
him, over an abyss, wliere, literally, fire and brim- 
stone are in dreadful and incessant action ; before 
tremendous proofs of what is going on beneath him ; 
enveloped in thick vapors ; his ear stunned with 
thundering noises, — -^ these can hardly be expressed 
in words." Krisuvik lies on the south side. 

Guldbringd Syssel, or Gold-bringing, because of 
its fisheries, as may be seen on any map of the 
island, stretches far out into the sea, south-west 
of Reykjavik, and terminating in Cape Reykianes. 

North of it, and running farther into the ocean, is 
the peninsula whose remarkable extremity is the grand 
Snaefell JokuU. Its northern shore is quite unlike 
the scenery of Guldbring^. A valley, which spreads 
from the sea to Mount Esian, is level, and green with 
verdure. An hour's travel, and we reach Saubar, 
from whose parish register we have copied a page 
of the pastor's memoranda. At Leira, a neighboring 
parish, was formerly the headquarters of a literary 
society, whose printing-office was here. 

Farther along the coast is Stapskape, with its mar- 
vellous columnar rocks, bearing some resemblance to 
our own Palisades on the Hudson, caverns not unlike 
Fingal's Cave, and immense arches of the same 
lava-granite. In the clear air looms ice-crowned 
Snaefell JokuU. Few feet have ever attempted to 
scale it, and none ever crossed the awful chasm 
guarding its crest for a hundred feet below. 

The immense bog-lands occasionally seen are pecu- 

21 



242 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

liar to Iceland, whether wet or dry. From the surface 
of the land, like small bundles of straw standing end- 
wise, are scattered miniature mounds, covered with 
fine grass. These are not growths^ but thrown up 
by the action of the frost ; and consequently, if any 
are removed, likely to be restored again. 

We stand at the entrance of the wonderful valley 
of Reykholt. More columns than the eye can dis- 
tinguish of vapor slowly ascend in the perspective. 
Advancing along the valley, first from a platform of 
lava, through several apertures the boiling water is 
thrown, warning the incautious traveller to keep at 
a safe distance from all but the smallest jets of the 
caldron below. Still farther, a massive rock ten feet 
high, and about fort)^ long, stands in the middle of a 
rushing river ; and from its highest point furiously 
dashes upward a steaming column. Near it, from 
the bed of the stream itself, issue springs of boil- 
ing water. 

It is sabbath day at Reykholt, Aug. 21 ; and 
without a cloud on the intense blue, since soon after 
the '' noon of night " the sun has been moving along 
his high arctic curve, flooding the landscape, whose 
'' very volcanic agencies seem to relax their energies, 
as their steam-columns languidly rise towards the 
heavens, beckoning the scattered inhabitants of this 
wild valley to direct their thoughts above, with more 
solemnity than the sound of the village bell. Even 
the cattle, as if conscious of the day, relinquish their 
rich pastures by the river's bank, and, collected in a 
group at the entrance of the ' tun,' appear to enjoy 
more perfectly at their ease the rare rays of the re- 
splendent morning. 



THE OLD PASTOR, 243 

" Files of mounted peasants and their children, 
dressed in holiday best, are now threading their way 
from the neighboring farms, and converging to the 
church ; where, on their arrival, they tether their 
ponies, and cluster around the entrance, awaiting 
the appearance of the pastor." 

A suggestive link, indeed, are these '' motley cav- 
alcades," betv/een a past generation and the present, 
including, .as they do, all ages, from the sleeping 
infant, to the aged grandmother, sitting astride her 
pony, his bushy tail and mane flying in all directions. 
Silver belts, gilt buttons and breastpins, below the 
fantastic head-dress, reflect the sunbeams that fall 
amid the sabbath stillness. Yonder he comes, with 
tottering step, — the dear old pastor, the venerable 
patriarch of the valley, attended by three clergymen 
from adjoining parishes, to assist him in the services 
his own strength is insufficient to perform. Saluting 
each member of his flock, he passes into the hushed 
sanctuary, and the anthem of praise floats out upon 
the slumbering air. It is eleven o'clock ; and, until 
nearly one, worship is rendered to Him who is never 
confused nor deceived by the manifold dialects and 
forms of homage, in the same pure Norse that 
invoked the smiles of Odin a thousand years ago. 

It was no trivial compliment paid by the French 
Abbe Bernard, at the trading-station of Grundar 
Fiord in Snaefells Syssel, when he said to an Eng- 
lish tourist, '' lis sont si betes ; " that is to say, no 
impression could be made upon the natives. During 
a two-years' residence, not a convert had been made 
to the Romish faith, abjured three centuries before. 



244 the' ISLAND OF FIRE. 

A short ride from Reykholt towards Grundar 
Fiord is Bulandshofdi Pass, which is along the ahnost 
perpendicular side of a promontory rising two thou- 
sand feet from the ocean-surf. The fearful magnifi- 
cence of this narrow pathway, the precipice towering 
a thousand feet above and below, cannot be surpassed. 

The awe-insj)iring sublimity of such desolate 
heights, often splintered and turreted, which stand 
like swarthy giants upon the shores that encircle 
Iceland, is peculiar to it ; and although destitute of 
verdure, or Scottish glens smiling in their fastness, 
they leave an impression unsurpassed in vividness 
and power by any other coast-views, unless Jan 
Mayen, which but few eyes have ever beheld, be an 
exception. 

Whatever direction is taken towards the interior, 
there bursts on the view continually, '' some new 
wonder in the unearthly landscape." Sometimes it 
will be a grassy plain lying in a horse-shoe range of 
parti-colored hills ; beyond which, nearly encircling 
it, is another line of heights, black, red, and yellow, 
making the " fire-moulded circle seem weird and im- 
passable. But, doubling the *horn, there succeeds a 
rampart of green hills, opening into glens, gorges, 
and plains, beyond Avhich is moorland watered by 
rivers and silvery lakes. Here and there, rise vol- 
umes of sulphur vapor and steam, from the slopes, 
and even the surface, of swiftly flowing streams. 
In the distance, rises grandly a lofty fell or jokuU, 
burying its crown in a cloud, or gleaming in the 
sun." 

We have a fine illustration of the peculiar fascina- 



SKETCH OF AN ENGLISH TOURIST, 245 

tlon of the most desolate portions of Iceland, in the 
finished sketches by Mr. Byrce, an English tourist, 
of an excursion there in the summer of 1872. 

The picture we copy is from the side washed by 
the Arctic Sea. 

u y^Q reached a high, undulating plateau, strewn 
with loose, rough slabs of stone, like the pavement of 
a ruined city, with here and there sheets of black 
water, too small for lakes, too big for pools ; patches 
of bog, and beds of half-thawed snow. The slowly 
rising clouds showed all round the same country, a 
land without form and void, a land that seemed as if 
only half-created, with no feature for the eye to 
dwell upon ; neither peaks nor valleys, neither rocks 
nor grass, but everywhere bare, bleak, blank desola- 
tion. It was not always the same, for sometimes 
there was more snow, sometimes bog, sometimes only 
stone ; but one had no sense of progress in it, and 
felt as if it might go on forever. Late in the after- 
noon, the stone changed to a rolling plain of black 
volcanic pebbles ; and, coming at last to an oasis of 
short grass, we halted to give the horses a feed, 
though a scanty one, and to discuss our course ; for 
the clouds had now settled down upon us, and there 
was no seeing more than a few hundred yards in any 
direction. Track, or mark to indicate a track, there 
was of course none. 

'' Next morning early, when we again mounted, and 
started, unrefreshed, upon our way, every thing was 
still wrapped in cloud. About nine o'clock, however, 
the mist suddenly rose, and then vanished ; the sun 
shone out, and the wished-for jokull appeared, a 

21* 



246 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

long, flat-topped, smooth-sloped ridge of ice, four or 
five miles to the east of iis, trending away south far- 
ther than eye could reach. So the way was now 
plain ; and we rode on as fast as the roughness of the 
ground permitted, where flats covered with the over- 
flow of glacier torrents alternated with rocky or 
shingly hills, and with the iron billows of successive 
lava-flows. The scene was unlike yesterday's, as 
drear and solitary, but with a certain weird splendor 
of its own ; on one side, the smooth, endless line of 
snow-field ; on the other, an immense plain, flooded 
with sunlight, with a few tiny volcanic cones rising 
on its extreme western marge ; right in front, two 
bold, snowy mountain groups, the square mass of 
Lang Jokull, and opposite it five sharp icy pinnacles 
capping the ridge of Blangny Jokull ; between them 
a depression, through which we were to pass to the 
south, and which, so clear was the air, seemed no 
nearer at six o'clock, after incessant quick riding, 
than when we had caught sight of it before noon. 

'' The unfruitful sea is not more lonely or more 
waste than this wilderness, shut in by frozen barriers. 
Yet it was not a howling wilderness, such as that 
which awes a child's imagination in the Hebrew 
prophets, such as that we had traversed the day 
before ; but full of a strange, stern beauty, stilling the 
soul with the stillness of nature. There was not a 
cloud in the sky, not a bird, not an insect, not a flow- 
eret at our feet ; only the blue dome of air raining 
down brightness on the black desert floor, the daz- 
zling snows in front, and far away exquisite tints of 
distance upon the western peaks. And then the 



^ 



SKETCH OF AN ENGLISH TOURIST, 247 

silence, what was ever like it ? a silence, not as of 
death, but as of a time before life was. To us, the 
scene was all the more solemn because of yesterday's 
cloud, and the weary night ; for there was nothing to 
connect what we now saw with the region we had 
left on the northern side of the desert ; we could no 
more tell how we had got there than how we should 
get out. It was like a leap into fairy-land, and, in- 
deed, despite our exhaustion, a dehcious leap, for the 
air was so fine and keen, the sky so brilliant, the 
aspect of every thing so novel, that the barrenness 
underfoot, and the sense of danger in case any mis- 
fortune befell us so far from human help, did not 
seem to depress us ; and each rode alone in a sort of 
grave exhilaration, gazing as in a dream at the hills, 
and drinking in the sunlight, content with silence 
and the present. 

'^ The sun went down as we. entered the majestic, 
sand-strewn portal between the two jokuUs ; and the 
eastern one, on whose snows his light lingered long- 
est, glowed with colors more glorious than any we 
could remember in the Alps ; the rose, perhaps, less 
vivid than that which burns at dawn upon the Silber- 
horn, but with it an infinitely varied and tender 
alternation of violet and purple, opal and pink and 
orange, passing from one tint to another in swift iri- 
descent pulses till they died away into chilly blue. 
Darkness had hardly descended before what had 
seemed a steel-gray bank of cloud in the north-east 
turned to an auroral arch, which soon shot forth its 
streamers across the zenith, throbbing and glancing 
from one side of heaven to the other, and flinging 



248 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

themselves into exuberant folds and curves of vapor- 
ous light. 

'' When the saffron robe of morning was spread over 
the east, we were among new mountains, with the 
pass already far away ; and when from behind one of 
their pinnacles the sun suddenly flamed up, we were 
descending towards the Great White Lake Kvite- 
vatn), one of the largest in the country, over whose 
bosom two glaciers streaming down between savage, 
ink-black cliffs, scattered a shower of miniature ice- 
bergs, that sailed about, sparkling in the morning 
light." 

Krossholm, in Northern Iceland, received its name 
from a cross raised on the highest summit, along the 
beautiful valley of Hvam, by the widow of Baldur 
the Rich, a sea-rover, who, having embraced Chris- 
tianity abroad, introduced it there. After his death 
and festival obsequies, she erected the sacred symbol ; 
which, after she died, was removed, and a heathen 
temple erected on the very spot where it stood. 

In this connection, we are reminded that the most 
memorable domestic festivals were the funeral feasts, 
which were sometimes on a grand scale, attended by 
many hundreds of guests, and continued several 
days. It is related, that, at Hjalke's death, fourteen 
hundred persons kept this Viking '' wake." A man 
of wealth named And, when he knew death was 
near, made a magnificent feast, distributing his pro- 
perty to his heirs, and presents to his friends. 

It was a custom sacredly regarded to have the 
eyes of the dead closed by the nearest of kin. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Excursions among the Mountains, and along the Coast. — The 
Geyser. — Uncomplaining Resignation. — The Strokr. 

THE route from Thingvalla to the Geysers, trav- 
elled by Hooker in 1809, was a very dangerous 
one, much of the way lying between frightful 
chasms, and over fragments of rock, with deep holes 
among them, and so narrow at times the horses 
could barely pass single file. A' more striking scene 
in travel cannot be imagined, than such a cavalcade 
winding along a pathway no horses but those native 
to- the soil could thread, on the winding ridge, amid 
awful solitudes, and scenery whose strange grandeur 
is nowhere else to be found on the globe. Many 
have been killed among these savage hollows. In 
connection with these perils, our traveller sheds 
touching light upon the Icelander's religious charac- 
ter. 

When the priest Egclosen's only horse fell into 
one of them, mangling his legs, instead of complain- 
ing, he went cheerfully on his way. Adds Hooker, 
" When I was lamenting the number of lives which 
he informed me were lost among the holes that are 
here everywhere met with, he stopped me by saying, 

- 249 



250 TEE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

' It is God's will that it should be so.' " And this 
writer is in doubt how much of the happy resigna- 
tion, greater among the Icelanders than '' any other 
people he has read of," is the fruit of piety, and 
what may be due to chmate, and the force of sur- 
rounding circumstances. We think both have their 
influence, but principally the former, if we recollect 
that the Bible and hymn-book have always a place 
in his dwelling. His love of his own island is no 
less marked, and more beautiful. Whether in Edin- 
burgh, where an Icelandic bride and bridegroom on 
their wedding-trip looked out upon the great city, 
and burst into tears with very homesickness, or the 
sojourner at Copenhagen, who breaks away from a 
milder climate and greater comforts for the dear 
'' Maid of the North," the same passionate affection 
for her is expressed. To the wanderer, wherever he 
goes, she is the fairest of all the earth. 

About seventy miles from Reykjavik, through 
Thingvalla, from the slopes of LaugafeU, rising 
three hundred feet above the river at its base, the 
geysers lift their steaming columns to the light. 
Approaching an inclined plane, which becomes the 
side of the summit, clouds of smoke, like those from 
chimneys in a frosty morning, curl upwards from the 
mounds scattered over it ; the highest of which 
makes the mouth of the Great .Geyser. Its circular 
rim is a brownish gray, and dotted with little hil- 
locks, covered with efflorescence, forming a necklace 
of silver, or, more nearly, an appearance of ivory 
beads. The saucer-shaped mouth is more than fifty 
feet across ; and five feet below it is the cylinder 



THE GREAT GEYSER, 251 

througli whicli the boiling flood is thrown upward 
from its mysterious depths. 

When the Geyser is at rest, the eye looks down 
upon a pool of water, clear as crystal; none more 
pellucid, perhaps, in the world. Watching it, the 
surface is troubled with the unceasing ebullition, 
ready for the tremendous explosion, whose approach 
is heralded by signal-guns, exactly resembling distant 
cannon, and by the trembhng of the earth. The 
agitation increases ; the water rolls over the basin's 
edge ; and jets, a dozen feet in height, are thrown 
upwards with a roar like that of artillery. And 
this is all the traveller may see for days. At length 
subterranean thunders and shocks increase, like the 
''firing from a fleet of ships on a rejoicing day," 
when the cannon are discharged without regularity, 
— now singly, and now two or three at the same 
moment. Then follows jet after jet, increasing in 
volume and height, till a hundred feet of the col- 
umnar waters rise in the air, the base a vast mound 
of foam, indescribable in magnificence alid beauty. 

It rolls and flashes through the cloud of mist 
which veils its impressive wonders, mounting up- 
ward in compact shafts, then bursting into number- 
less long and slender " streamlets of spray," shot 
hke rockets in every direction ; all sparkling like a 
cascade of diamonds in the sun. 
. In a few moments, suddenly the pageant falls and 
disappears, while the beholder is spellbound with 
its glories ; and only the basin, with its cloud of 
steam, is left again. 

The provision nature furnishes always for making 



252 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

a cup of the indispensable tea, is pleasantly told by 
one who drank it on the spot. A shepherd-boy 
brought into camp some milk and cream, when Zoega 
the guide exclaimed, — 

'' ' Just in time, sir. I'll make the tea in a min- 
ute.' 

'' ' Where's your fire ? ' 

" ' Oh ! we don't need fire here : the hot water is 
always ready. There's the big boiler up yonder.' 

''I looked where Zoega pointed, and saw, about a 
hundred yards off, a boiling caldron. This was our 
grand tea-kettle. Upon a nearer inspection, I found 
that it consisted of two great holes in the rocks, close 
together, the larger of which was about thirty feet 
in circumference, and of great depth. The water 
was as clear as crystal. It was easy to trace the 
white stratum of rocks, of which the sides were 
formed, down to the neck of the great shaft through 
which the water was ejected. Flakes of steam 
floated off from the surface of the crystal pool, which 
was generally placid. Only at occasional intervals 
did it show any symptoms of internal commotion. 
By dipping my finger down a little way, I found that 
it was boiling hot. Five minutes' immersion would 
be sufficient to skin and boil an entire man. 

'' Nature has bountifully put these boilers here for 
the use of travellers. Not a stick or twig of wood 
grows within a circuit of many miles ; and, without 
fuel, of course it would be impossible to cook food. 
Here a leg of mutton, submerged in a pot, can be 
beautifully boiled, plum-puddings cooked, eggs, 
fish, or any thing you please, done to a nicety. AU 



SUNRISE, 253 

this I knew before ; but I had no idea that the water 
was pure enough for drinking purposes. Such, how- 
ever, is the fact. No better water ever came out of 
the earth, in a boiled condition. To make a pot of 
tea, you simply put your tea into your pot, hold on 
to the handle, dip the whole concern down into the 
water, keep it there a while to draw, and your tea is 
made. 

" I found it excellent, and did not, as I appre- 
hended, discover any unpleasant flavor in the water. 
It may be slightly impregnated with sulphur, though 
that gives it rather a wholesome smack. To me, 
however, it tasted very much like any other hot 
water." 

The same traveller thus complains of the nightless 
days while camping here : — 

'' How in the world could anybody be expected 
to sleep where there was no night ? At twelve 
o'clock, when it ought to be midnight, and ghosts 
stirring about, it was broad day. 

" After an uneasy doze, I looked out, and the sun's 
rays appeared upon the distant mountains. A 
strange time of the night for the sun to be getting 
up, only half-past one ; when people in most other 
parts of the world are snug in bed, and don't expect 
to see a streak of sunshine for at least four or five 
hours. How different from any thing I had ever 
before seen was the sunrise in Iceland ! No crow- 
ing of the cock, no singing of the birds, no merry 
ploughboys whistling up the horses in the barnyard, 
no cherry-cheeked milkmaids singing love-ditties as 
they tripped the green with their pails upon their 

22 



254 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

heads. All was grim, silent, and deathlike. And 
yet surely, for all that, the delicate tints of the snow- 
capped mountains, the peaks of which were now 
steeped in the rays of the rising sun, the broad valley 
slumbering in the shade, the clear, sparkling atmos- 
phere, and the exquisite coloring of the Laugafell, — 
the mighty crag that towers over the geysers, — 
were beauties enough to redeem the solitude, and 
imbue the deserts with a celestial glory." 

A few rods from the Geyser, is the Strokr, or 
churn^ which occasionally makes an exhibition sec- 
ond in grandeur only to the Geyser. It seems to be 
there for the amusement of travellers, while waiting 
for the uncertain explosions of the monarch of boil- 
ing springs. Its crater, in form, is the reverse of its 
superior, resembling a saucer in its natural position, 
minus the bottom ; while that is like the same piece 
of crockery inverted. Visitors and their guides dig 
turf, and pile it in heaps by the mouth ; and, when 
large enough to choke Strokr badly, it is turned 
over into his throat. After a brief time spent in a 
noisy but vain effort to masticate or swallow the 
mass, with a tremendous spasm the angry Strokr 
sends it forth and upward, mottling the crystal cata- 
ract with the ascending earth and stones. 

The word "geyser" itself is very descriptive, 
meaning, to rush out impetuously. 

The most plausible theory of the cause of these 
marvellous springs, is that of immense cavities of 
water so confined in the depths below, that in- 
crease of heat, and consequently steam, at any time, 
upon the surface, forces it through the orifice beneath 



THE GREAT GEYSER, 255 

/' 

the water-level, upward into the air. The heating 
forces are always at work, but are so irregular in the 
supply of steam that tourists frequently wait several 
days before they have a first-class exhibition of the 
Great Geyser. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

Mount Hecla. — Magnificent View from its Top. — Sturtsliellir Cav- 
ern. — Its Wild Mythology and Traditions. — Bulandshof di Pass. 
— Mud Caldron. — Dettifoss Falls. — Eagle - Tarns. — Grettis 
Tak. — Thurrisdale.— Fording Rivers. —Dog-tournament. —Flora. 

THE perilous patli south-easterly to Hecla is 
through the usual yariety of yolcanic scenery, 
but wilder and more difficult in some of its features 
as the traveller approaches the volcano. The ascent 
is toilsome, and, like Alpine mountain-paths, some- 
times crossed with chasms, and attended with perils. 
But we can look over the landscape from its brow, 
with the eyes of the first American, so far as we 
know, who reached its top. 

" Here I stood on the highest summit of Mount 
Hecla. A more magnificent prospect was never seen. 
Iceland was spread below and around me like a map. 
We were nearly five thousand feet above the level 
of the sea, and higher than the tops of nearly every 
mountain in Iceland. To the west and north-west 
were vast green tracts of meadow-land, checkered 
with hills, and surrounded by mountains. White, 
shining rivers intersected the valleys and plains like 
long silver ribbons. Far in the north, and to the 
north-east, were the snowy mountains, not in peaks, 
but stretching away in immense plains of brilliant 
white, and glistening in the sunshine. 

256 



MOUNT EECLA. 257 

" In a valley, some twenty miles to the north-west, 
was a beautiful cluster of lakes, the water often of a 
deep green color, as they reflected the meadows on 
their banks. Xow and then in the landscape would 
appear the Iceland ' forest,' like patches of shrub- 
bery of a dark green hue. Some hills and old lava 
districts were covered with heath, now in full bloom, 
and clothing the land in a robe of purple. The sur- 
face of Hecla itself, and the ground on every side 
some distance from the base, was one black mass of 
lava. 

" To the north-west, and near at hand, rising ab- 
ruptly from the plain to the height of twenty-five 
hundred feet, was Bjolfell, a bold and singular- 
looking mountain. A dark cloud lay in the south- 
east, intercepting the view ; but on every other side 
the sky was clear, and the prospect uninterrupted. 
To the south, far out to sea, — distant about forty 
miles, — were the Westman Islands, rising abruptly 
out of the water to the height of more than two 
thousand feet, and showing their basaltic cliffs in a 
clearly defined outhne. Cities, villages, and human 
habitations filled no part of the landscape. 

" The magical purity of the atmosphere, and the 
singular character of this volcanic country, make a 
view from the top of Mount Hecla one of the most 
extensive and varied of any on the earth's surface, 
not excepting JEtna in Sicily, and Vesuvius in Italy. 
Though these latter countries are far richer in natu- 
ral productions, and abound in cities and towns, and 
the Bay of Naples is proverbial for its beauty, yet 
I must say that the view from Mount Hecla is far 

22* 



258 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



\ 



more varied and beautiful, on account of the clear-* 
ness of the atmosphere, and the variety of the moun- 
tain, valley, and island scenery. 

'' The view from this mountain must extend more 
than two hundred miles, showing a visible horizon 
of at least fifteen hundred miles in circuit. Most 
fortunately the day was beautifully clear ; and after 
the first half-hour on the summit, except a bank of 
clouds in the east, the whole country was visible. 
To the north-east, seemingly quite below us, in the 
valley of the River Tungna, was a landscape of tiny 
streams, little lakes, green meadows, and heath-clad 
hills. One small lake, the Groenavatn (green lake), 
was shaped like .the moon when nearly full, and 
looked scarcely larger than a saucer. The mountains 
to the south, the lofty Tindfjalla and Eyjafjalla Jo- 
kuUs, rose up in separate knobs or peaks, the latter 
justifying its name of ' Mountain of Islands.' " 

Tourists who visit Mount Hecla sometimes travel 
towards the south-west coast, visiting the Ruyker 
Springs, and the Sulphur Mountain, another of Na- 
ture's exhaustless, magnificent, yet terror-exciting 
laboratories of this mineral. 

The road for some distance lies through a so-called 
Icelandic forest, where, in addition to the usual birch 
and willow trees, there are bushes bearing a small 
berry, called the ''blueberry," the only thing of the 
fruit kind in Iceland. '' Here, too, is found that most 
beautiful of all the shrubs and flowers of Iceland, 
the fragrant heath." 

This beautiful carpet of the lava is one of the first 
plants found growing upon the thin lava-beds, and 



A FAMOUS CAVERN. 259 

covers nearly one-half of Iceland. The course of 
the journey brings us to the Thiors&/'s banks, where 
we behold a turbulent and mighty current, sweeping 
with resistless Torce to the southern coast. The river 
is larger than the Hudson at Newburgh, swift as an 
arrow, white with clay from the mountains, and cold 
as ice, — in appearance a most formidable stream. 
Travellers are ferried across in a frail skiff, the guide 
sitting in the stern of the boat, and leading the 
horses as they swim behind. Travelling directly 
down the Thiorsa, and from thence along the south- 
ern coast, we gain a fine view in clear weather of 
Eyjafjalla and Tindjfalla JokuUs, which stand in 
bold relief against the eastern sky. 

This route brings the traveller to Skalholt, situated 
in the forks of the Bruara and the Kvita Rivers. 
Though dignified, on some of our maps, with the title 
of the '' capital " of Iceland, it is simply a farm ; 
and contains the ruins of a small cathedral church, 
where one of the bishops of Iceland used to officiate. 

The tourist north will be likely to visit the 
famous cavern at Sturtshellir. Here, according to 
the Voluspa, Surtur, the demon '' who is one day to 
destroy the iiniverse with fire," had his abode. 
Bandits, during the early centuries, found a safe hid- 
ing-place within its gloomy portals. Of the savage 
and tragical life here, we have some account in writ- 
ten traditions. Among these is the story of the 
Cave-men ; a mixture, doubtless, of fact and fiction. 
The lawless heroes of the narrative were fifteen pu- 
pils of the school at Holar. Having murdered an 
old woman, they fled with her daughters, seeking a 



260 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

secure solitude. At length they made Sturtshellir 
their lonely retreat. They became an organized band, 
foraging among the flocks and herds of the nearest 
farms. They appeared at the parish church at 
Kalmansttinga, armed, placing themselves back to 
back, in two rows in the nave, for mutual de- 
fence. Drowning their own children, they rarely, if 
ever, murdered the peasants, who lived in constant 
fear of death at their hands. To get rid of these 
Cave-men, a courageous young man joined the band, 
learned their haunts and habits, and betrayed them. 
After various fortunes, feigning sickness, he was left 
alone one day, with their women ; when, mounting a 
horse grazing at the mouth of the cavern, he gal- 
loped home. * He soon after led an armed force to 
their wayside camping-ground, and fell upon them 
while asleep. After a deadly fight, the outlaws were 
slain. The victors then marched to the cavern, only 
to have another bloody encounter with the women, 
who defended themselves bravely by hurling down 
firebrands, and pouring water upon them. They at 
last were also conquered. The daring young leader 
lost a foot in this adventure, but won the highest ad- 
miration of his countrymen. 

About midway from Reykholt to Sturtshellir, is the 
depopulated village of Kalmanstunga ; a sad memo- 
rial of famine and disease, which have left only a 
single farmhouse, the ruins of a stone church, and 
an overgrown burying-ground, with its scarcely visi- 
ble hillocks. What tales of lonely agony, death, and 
hasty interment, had they voices, could they tell us I 

The proprietor of the byre is a stone-cutter, carv- 



REGIONS OF SOLITUDE. 261 

ing headstones for the graves of his remote country- 
men, a silversmith, and a genius generally. 

Not far beyond his home, rolls swiftly a branch of 
the White River, bordering a forest many of whose 
birches are eight feet in height; so that here, at 
least, it may be said, Icelandic woods '''-wave their 
houghs in the breeze." 

Between Reykholt and Miklaholt, along a wild and 
unfrequented path, westward on the southern line 
of the Snaefells Syssel, travelled only by sheep-hunt- 
ers, and amid scenery in which '' new forms and 
new colors present themselves at every moment, the 
red, vitrified-looking inland sea tossed hither and 
thither by the once surging vapors beneath, the sur- 
face of its waves blown into a thousand fantastic 
shapes, as if regiments of demon glass-blowers had 
chosen this as the scene of their labors," rises Eld- 
borg, or the Fortress of Fire. It is an old crater, 
eighteen hundred feet in diameter, resembling the 
turret of a monitor — ''a sand-and-cinder " height, 
encircled by a rampart, and a relic of fiery floods. 

There are regions of unvisited solitude, where re- 
pose crystal lakes, into which the curious traveller 
sometimes looks, the home only of wild birds, among 
which the eagle holds his kingly eyrie. They are 
called after him. Eagle-tarns. On the way north- 
ward from Thingvalla, is Grettis-Tak, and the mj^s- 
terious Thorirsdale. The Tak is a massive slab of 
stone, with an aperture evidently intended for guid- 
ance to the mountain depths of dreariest seclusion 
it is possible to imagine. Fable says Grettir carried 
that rock, which he had perforated, too heavy for a 



262 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

regiment of men to lift, and put it in position, to 
point out the vale which no mortal ever entered but 
himself. It was one of the outlaw's most inaccessi- 
Lle hiding-places. Repeated efforts have been made 
by tourists to reach it, but in vain. No path to this 
hermitage of (rrettir has yet rewarded the toilsome 
climbing, and perilous descent, of the few who have 
attempted to discover what all believe to exist, — an 
inaccessible retreat, whose utter loneliness it makes 
us shudder to think of as a human abode, over which 
howled during long, long nights, arctic storms. 

Near the extreme point of north-western travel, is 
the mud-caldron of Namar-Hilth, one of Iceland's 
greatest wonders. Imagine yourself standing upon 
a winding path along a mountain cleft, and below, 
" a plain of mud, the wash from the hills, bounded 
by a lava-field ; the mountains steaming to their very 
tops, and depositing sulphur, the primrose hue of 
which gives extraordinary brightness to the land- 
scape. From the plain, vast clouds of steam rise into 
the air, and roll in heavy whirls before the wind, 
whilst a low drumming sound proceeding from them 
tells of the fearful agencies at work." 

A day's ride farther, and the thunder of Dettifoss 
breaks upon the ear. This is a plunge of the Jok- 
ulsa, probably the largest river in Iceland, two hun- 
dred feet, in several commingling torrents, into 
cavernous depths. Among these they are hurled as 
if in wrath by demons there, upward and outward, 
with blending thunders. Utter desolation and awful 
grandeur, defying speech, declare the few who have 
seen the cataract, make the scene one which is unsur- 
passed on the globe in terrible sublimity. 



LOOK TOWARDS THE SHORE. 263 

Besides the Jokulsa, one hundred and twenty-five 
miles long, the Thjorsa and Kvita are fine rivers. 
South of the Vatna Jokull, where the Jokulsa rises, 
torrents two miles wide, only eight or ten miles from 
the sea, '' whirl down with frightful velocity, carry- 
ing with them masses of ice dislodged from the gla- 
ciers which are their feeders, and volumes of sand 
from the volcanic mountains which they drain." 

These streams are forded by swimming the ponies, 
or by the usual ferries, often in frail boats, attended 
with more or less danger. 

The fords are changing constantly by the force of 
the currents, and what they bring from the heights 
among which they rise. This fact illustrates the rule 
of safety for travellers : '' Never enter a stream until 
your guide has tried it." 

Baring-Gould, while crossing one of the swift 
rivers, became bewildered in the angry flood through 
which his horse was floundering, and swayed in his 
saddle. At this crisis of aff'airs, the shout of his 
guide ahead reached his ear, '' Look towards the 
shore ! " He obeyed ; and, fixing his eye on the dis- 
tant bank, he soon regained his composure, and safely 
reached it. The moral significance of the incident 
made a deep impression. And surely, to Christian 
thought, nothing can be more beautifully suggestive 
of the calming, cheering power, amid the '' deep 
waters " of earthly trial, of faith's clear look towards 
the celestial shore. 

The dogs of Iceland, like the people, have some 
singular ways of their own. We find an account by 
a traveller half a century or more ago, of a dog- 



264 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

tournament, whicli, it seems, is of common occur- 
rence. Across a river near Reykjavik was the field 
reached by a bridge, and also by stepping-stones in 
the bed of the stream. One morning two dozen 
dogs were seen running from the capital, and other 
parts of the country, towards these crossings ; among 
them, one larger than the rest, who acted as leader, 
taking his position on a mound in the centre of the 
canine crowd. After a momentary pause, three or 
four scampered away a hundred feet, or so, and com- 
menced a sham fight. After a skirmish, they re- 
turned ; and others succeeded them, till all but the 
captain, who remained unmoved, had their share in 
the pastime. For a quarter of an hour the engage- 
ments were continued good-naturedly, to the music 
of incessant barking ; when they quietly dispersed, 
and each took his own homeward W2ij. 

Of the forests which were once evidently of consid- 
erable growth and extent, as on portions of our own 
Cape Cod and Plymouth Beach, where are now only 
sandbanks, we find, besides stunted bushes, here 
and there an exceptional tree. Near the gover- 
nor's residence is a solitary example ; and, at Ar- 
keuyri, a mountain-ash, twen!;y-five feet high. 

The flora is larger and more beautiful than one 
unacquainted with it could imagine. Modest yet 
lovely blossoms greet the ' summer tourist, along the 
valleys, and on the little cottage-lawns ; while it fur- 
nishes the Icelander with dyes in considerable variety, 
and nourishing plants, especially lichens, for food. 

The pink lamba-grass and white tassels of the cot- 
ton thrush are among the common ornamental work 
of the brief summer landscape. 




CAVE OF STURSHELTJOR.- Page 259. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Calamities. — Plague. — Black -Death — Famine. — Pirates. — Volca- 
noes and Earthquakes. — Effect on the Condition and Character 
of the People. — Discouragement and Decline. — A Ee volution. — 
A Petitioner. 

PRE-EMINENT in scenery, historic position, 
constitutional liberty, language, and character, 
Iceland has also no rival in the number and variety 
of the terrible calamities which have tried the faith, 
courage, and resources of this true-hearted people. 

In 1402 a plague, whose origin and deadly nature 
are unexplained, in two years mowed down, it is 
recorded, two-thirds of the entire population. This 
unexampled mortality was followed by so severe 
weather, that a tenth part of the cattle died. An- 
other epidemic, towards the close of the century, 
made similar desolation. 

The small-pox had its days of ghastly havoc. But 
the most mahgnant of all the forms of pestilence 
walking in the darkness of Iceland's long nights, 
and the destruction wasting at noonday, was the 
Black-death, whose touch was corruption and decay; 
and which, it is supposed, depopulated once prosper- 
ous Greenland. 

The failure of the small crops by unusual frosts 
and storms, and the destruction of fish by marine 

23 265 



266 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

earthquakes and eruptions, have also shrivelled to 
awful death thousands during a single year. 

What imagination can form a true picture of such 
a work of the destroying angel, during days which 
have only a noon-time of sunlight? — the dead 
carried out to burial in their lava-graves beneath thfe 
gloomy shadows of mountains, the way lit up by au- 
roral flames, cold moonbeams, or only the glimmering 
lights amid the storm, carried in living hands. 

The piratical invasions of this solitary isle had, 
from the beginning, been frequent from distant 
tribes and realms, including England and France, 
plundering and ravaging the Westman Islands, and 
also the mainland. The most frightful descent was 
in 1627, when a large Algerine force coasted along 
the southern boundaries, bearing away whatever 
they found as spoils, murdering the inhabitants, and 
carrjdng into wretched captivity four hundred men 
and women. When, nine years afterwards, the 
Danish king offered a ransom, only thirteen saw 
their native land, out of thirty-seven found alive. 
The unwritten history of the horrors of that slavery 
will not be knoAvn this side the ''grand assize " of 
all nations. 

The greatest and most startling wonder of Ice- 
land, after all, is its volcanic condition through the 
ages since the hour of its birth ; the entire island 
steaming, smoking, and often quaking, with its fre- 
quent outflows of the fiery flood. These tremen- 
dous forces constantly menace the people with de- 
struction through the prison which they created, 
their thunders of unrest, tongues of flame, and 




ERUPTIONS, 267 

cloudy columns, forever heard and seen throughout 
the land. 

In English and Danish archives, are records of 
terrific eruptions as far back as the year 1300 ; and 
no one can tell us what terrors, before that date, 
went abroad from fell and jokull, along the inhab 
ited valleys. 

We have, however, authentic illustration of what 
has substantially been the repeated calamities of Ice- 
land by fire, in the record made from personal ob- 
servation, by Chief-Justice Stephensen. This was 
during the summer of 1783, in the Skaptafields Sys- 
sel. 

The spring had been remarkably '' delightful, with 
soft breezes from the south," and vegetation, luxuri- 
ant in the month of May, was brightened by '' the 
many flowers ; " so that '' all rejoiced in the prospect 
of a fruitful summer and an abundant harvest." 

But, '^ towards the latter end of May, a bluish and 
light smoke was seen floating along the surface of 
the earth." With the coming of June, fears sad- 
dened the faces of the entire population of the Sys- 
sel, as they walked upon the waves of increasingly 
frequent and severe earthquakes, especially in the 
morning and evening. On the 8th a vast bank 
of smoky cloud stretched across the heavens, scat- 
tering showers of sand and ashes upon the earth, 
and making darkness, beneath its ominous wings, so 
deep, '' white paper could not be distinguished when 
held against the wall." The '' shocks and roarings 
were like the meeting of unnumbered cataracts ; 
several fire-spouts were seen rising from the moun- 



268 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

tains towards the north ; and the black cloud be- 
came more lofty every day, while earthquakes, peals 
of thunder, and strange sounds, increased." 

On June 12 " a dreadful fire-stream came pour- 
ing down from Skaptar-Jokelm (an ice-mountain) 
with the greatest impetuosity, like a foaming sea, 
into the Skaptaa. This river everywhere ran 
through deep valleys, and lofty cliffs, which were in 
many parts from four to five hundred, or even six 
hundred feet high ; yet the fire-stream not only filled 
up these cavities, but actually overflowed a consid- 
erable tract of land on both sides. It is only in a 
few places that there are still to be seen above the 
lava^ some of the tops of the highest mountains that 
formerly enclosed the Skaptaa." 

Then the atmosphere became thick with a suffo- 
cating smoke of most offensive smell, '' concealing 
the face of the sun, and absorbing its brilliant and 
beneficent rays. Seldom could this luminary be 
seen through the thick and sulphurous steam ; and 
when, now and then, it became visible, it had the ap- 
pearance of a globe of gloomj^ and blood-red color." 
Torrents of fixe surged along the mountain slopes, 
and, by flowing into chasms and caverns, blew up 
solid hills of lava, as a blast of powder does a ledge 
of granite. Lightnings played incessantly around 
the horizon ; between which and the towns rose lofty 
columns of fire, moving towards each other, until 
they stood a solid wall of flame extending from the 
lowering, echoing heavens, to the torn, scathed, and 
shaken earth. 

Mysterious and terrific sounds went booming 



ERUPTIONS. 269 

along the lighted cliffs ; while homes, horses and 
cattle, farm-lands, and churches, were no more than 
withered leaves in a conflagration, before the hissing, 
broadening tides of lava, rushing in different direc- 
tions for scores of miles, and drying up rivers, that, 
from time immemorial, had dashed madly to the sea. 
Wild-birds and fish died by myriads in the heated 
air, and disappearing boiling waters. 

A farmer, who saw the approaching flood of mol- 
ten lava, hastened to remove his family and stock to 
an island in a river, only to see them, from his yet 
uninvaded byre, suddenly wrapped in smoke and 
steam from an opening crater, and all perish to- 
gether. 

From the iron-like plains, fissures opened, and 
spouted forth the liquid fire ; and then some old 
crag would tremble and fall with a crash, reverberat- 
ing like the thunder of a thousand cannon, while 
from its base burst forth a glowing stream. For 
weeks the sun, like gore-tinged metal, hung in the 
sky, just dipping his burning forehead at night below 
the lurid horizon. 

It is not strange that ^^ every heart was filled with 
the greatest terror, and the poor inhabitants ex- 
pected every moment that heaven and earth would 
be annihilated." 

In West Skaptafield, '' where all the most fearful 
phenomena in nature had concentrated themselves 
on one spot, it was common to see the animals run- 
ning about the pastures as if in a state of madness : 
many of them, unable to find food, or even shelter 
to defend them from the surrounding horrors, 
plunged into the fire." 23* 



270 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

The destruction which followed the eruption, un- 
rivalled in all recorded horrors of volcanic action, 
from infected air, blasted pasturage, and poisoned 
vegetation of every kind, mocks the power of lan- 
guage to describe in ghastly detail. Famine drove 
the inhabitants to revolting expedients to prolong 
life. Old hides of animals who died of disease were 
boiled and eaten. Scurvy, and inflammatory diseases 
which are nameless, prevailed. Swollen limbs, ul- 
cers, loosened teeth, decaying tongues, agonies, and 
awful death, were common. 

In winter-time the earth frozen to a great depth, 
together with physical weakness, made burial often 
impossible, and the bodies were burned ; and, even 
when shallow graves were dug, several were thrown 
into a common burial-place, and scarcely covered 
from sight ; these mounds of death, in turn, becom- 
ing centres of fatal exhalations. 

No wholesome food could be obtained ; and families 
wandered homeless and starving towards the coast, 
only to perish at length beneath the pitiless storm. 

A few figures are given from the record of Chief- 
Justice Stephensen, whose narrative, ordered by the 
Danish king, with all its strength and vividness, is 
more suggestive to the imagination by the clearly 
conscious inability to describe the multiplied terrors 
and sufferings, than by what he does narrate with 
conscientious regard to truth. 

Nine thousand of the inhabitants died, and not 
less than twenty thousand horses, ten thousand cat- 
tle, and over one hundred and thirty thousand sheep. 
Has the world another such record, among so small 
and scattered a population ? 



SUFFERINGS. 271 

And yet the degree of calmness and resignation 
of Christian faith in the presence of the overwhehn- 
ing displays of Jehovah's power, and cruel visitations 
of lawless men, were never surpassed, if equalled, 
excepting by the ancient martyrs on the rack and in 
the flames. A dozen or more seasons of devastation 
differing in extent, and destruction of life and prop- 
erty, besides many volcanic eruptions of local and 
unimportant results comparatively, are recorded in 
the past four hundred years. 

It is no marvel, that self-possession, religious rev- 
erence, and resignation should stamp the character 
of such a people. 

Of these almost exterminating visitations, the gen- 
ial, sympathetic McKenzie said touchingly, ''They 
are recorded in the annals of Iceland with an affect- 
ing and almost painful simplicity. No attempts are 
made to excite a sentimental interest, beyond v\^hat 
humanity itself would jdeld to the simple story of 
such suffering. We are told that whole families 
were extinguished, and districts depopulated, by the 
virulence of disease ; that the learned, the pious, the 
wealthy, and the powerful, all dropped into a common 
grave ; that the labors of industry ceased ; that genius 
and literature disappeared ; and that the wretched 
remnant of the Icelanders, scarcely themselves saved 
from destruction, sunk into a state of apathy, super- 
stition, and ignorance. In pursuing his melancholy 
narrative, the historian sometimes looks back for a 
moment to the former celebrity and splendors of his 
country ; but he goes no farther, and all beyond is 
left to the feelings and imagination of the reader." 



272 TEE ISLAND OF FTRE. 

Amid the physical convulsions described, who 
would think a civil revolution possible in Iceland, 
or guess how it could occur among a people, in ori- 
gin, language, and religious faith, a unit, and uncom- 
plaining for centuries in their allegiance to a foreign 
realm ? 

During the war of 1808, between England and 
Denmark, the supplies from the latter country, on 
which the Icelanders necessarily depended, were 
largely cut off by the superior naval force of the 
British government. In these circumstances virtual 
neutrality in trade was clearly desirable. An Eng- 
lish mercantile house, whose financial head was 
Samuel Phelps, Esq., determined to open traffic in 
articles of common need, principally barley-meal, 
potatoes, and salt ; assuming that business relation 
to the island. Jorgen Jorgensen, a Dane of adven- 
turous career, having for several years served in the 
British navy, and then in the Danish, at this time a 
paroled prisoner in London, was the acknowledged 
leader of the expeditiou. 

January, 1809, he sailed in '^ The Clarence " from 
Liverpool for Iceland, hoisting American colors, and 
furnished with papers of the same nationality, to 
sustain the apparent position of neutrals. The under- 
taking was heroic, at least, in midwinter along the 
arctic line. The good ship arrived safely, but the 
Danish authorities refused permission to land the 
cargo. The threat of seizing a brig lying at anchor, 
and opening hostilities, brought them to terms. At 
this crisis the governor, Count Tramp, returned 
from Copenhagen, where he had passed several 



A 



A REVOLUTION, 273 

months. The English war-ship " Rover " just then 
came up the harbor, and dropped anchor before Reyk- 
javik. The count evidently felt the force of this 
last argument, and signed articles of agreement, 
granting liberty to trade. " The Margaret and 
Ann," with Mr. Phelps on board, arrived from Eng- 
land. Finding the treaty had not been published, as 
stipulated, while the proclamation forbidding the 
natives to trade with the English on pain of death 
was still posted in the streets, on the 25th of June, 
with twelve armed men, he went to the governor's 
house, and made him his prisoner. The natives who 
at that season of the year came in from the country 
like wandering nomads, leaning on their iron-pointed 
alpenstocks, used for walking on icy slopes, saw 
with apparent indifference Count Tramp removed 
to " The Margaret and Ann." The next step was 
a proclamation by Jorgensen, dissolving Iceland's 
connection with Denmark, restoring a republican 
government, and conferring on himself supreme 
command. A battery was erected on the shore, and 
the new colors, three split stock-fish on a ground of 
blue, flung out to the breeze. The old Icelandic 
banner was a single split stock-fish, environed by an 
oval garland. Mr. Jorgensen's little game of revo- 
lution seemed now to be a brilliant success. But 
just then, from the deck of the governor's prison, he 
sees the British war-sloop '' Talbot," in command 
of the Hon. Alexander Jones, coming up the Fiord. 
He had touched at Havneford, and listened to the 
bitter complaints of Danish merchants over the out- 
rage at the capital. 



274 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

And lo ! a sudden collapse of the bloodless revolu- 
tion. Count Tramp is released, and goes to London 
to spread his grievance before the English govern- 
ment; and Jorgensen is sent home to give an account 
of himself before the same august tribunal. Iceland 
returned to her allegiance to the Danish crown ; hav- 
ing never had, in all her history since the feuds of 
the heroic period, a baptism of blood. We think no 
other nation or tribe can furnish the world such a 
record of a thousand years. 

The first, and probably the only petition received 
by the revolutionary government of the island is so 
transparent in its simplicity, revealing through it the 
absence of all intentional wrong, with a high sense 
of honor and fidelity, that we copy it. Without 
offering the shadow of an apology for any infringe- 
ment of that pure morality presented to the world 
in the precepts and example of the great Teacher, 
we think the peasant's appeal a model of its kind, in 
its spirit, and the beauty of expression. It should be 
borne in mind that Thorlevsen, by the imprisonment 
of his wife, and by mutual understanding, was sepa- 
rated finally, but without a decree of divorce. Con- 
sequently he could not have a legal marriage. It 
was under these peculiar embarrassments that he 
writes from his secluded home for relief. 

A Petition from Biarne Thorlevsen. 

Sheweth : 

That in the year 1805, my wife, Thorunn Gunn- 
laugsdotter, was sentenced to two years' labor in the 



A NOVEL PETITION. 275 

Icelandic workhouse, only for the simple thing of 
stealing a sheep, which, besides, was nothing at all 
to me. The separation which took place according- 
ly, occasioned that I was compelled to take a young 
girl as my housekeeper, who otherwise much recom- 
mended herself by her ability and fidelity. The 
consequence of these circumstances was, that the 
girl produced two little girls, after each other, whose 
father I am. We were then separated by order of 
the magistrates ; and in this manner must the educa- 
tion of two innocent, but at the same time right 
handsome little girls remain neglected, unless she, as 
mother, in conjunction with me, as father, is not 
hindered from following the irresistible instincts of 
nature in the care and education of the children. 
But this cannot be done if we are not allowed to 
marry; and I humbly beg Mr. Bishop Videlin's 
declaration ; so much the more so, as I am convinced 
of the justice of my cause. 

I also commit my life and worldly happiness to 
your excellency's gracious consideration. 

With the confidence and attachment of a subject, 

BlABKE THOBLEVSEi^. 

Skridnafell witliin Barderstrand Syssel, 
1st August, 1809. 

To his ExceUency, Mr. Jorgen Jorgensen, Protector of the whole 
island of Iceland, and Chief Commander by sea and land. 

Upon proper inquiry, the bishop, finding that Mrs. 
Thorlevsen was desirous to have both the separation 
and new domestic relation legalized, issued the formal 



276 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



3 



decree ; and the happy little family were re-united 
at Skridnafell, and many years ago, doubtless, the 
parents have rested in the quiet burial-place by their 
parish church. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

The Gathering to the Millennial Jubilee. — The Scenes in the Bay, 
and Streets of the Capital. —The King's Arrival. — Banquet.^ 
People's Festival. — The Visit to Thingvalla. — A Grand Occasion. 
— Speeches. — Poetry. — New Ensign. — The Present and Future 
of Iceland. 

I)EYKJAVIK never presented a more animated 
t) spectacle than on the morning of July 30, 1874. 
In its harbor lay six frigates ; a Norwegian, a Swed- 
ish, a Danish, a German, and two French, with their 
national colors floating in the breeze. Twenty small- 
er vessels had flung out their flags. 

On the opposite side of the harbor, lay at anchor 
the English steamer " Albion," which brought the 
American delegation to the Jubilee ; and it included 
an illustrious trio, — C. W. Field, Bayard Taylor, 
and Dr. Hayes the arctic explorer. 

Beyond, and on either hand, the myriad sea-fowl 
seemed to sympathize with the spirit of the grand 
gala-day. Eider-ducks, puffins, terns, gulls, the 
skua, and the meteor-like falcon were cutting the 
air with their many-colored wings ; while beneath 
them the solan-goose 'floated with the heavy swell 
which succeeds a storm. Their screams echoed 
among the cliffs, in a wild medley of arctic music. 

On the beach, and along the clean, lava-sanded 

24 277 



278 THE ISLAND OF FTRE. 

streets, with flagged sidewalks, running from the 
capital to the hillsides, throngs of Danes and Ice- 
landers were waiting an event, which, during a 
national existence of a thousand 3'ears, had never 
occurred before, — the landing of a reigning king on 
the soil of Iceland. Banners hunsr from the windows 
of the houses, whose yard-fences had been newly- 
painted with a dark color, v/hile in the windows 
bloomed the rose, geranium, and mignonette. The 
skies alone seemed to frown on the scene, as if they 
had not yet become reconciled to the transfer of the 
republic to the protection of a throne. 

At last the desired signal appeared in the distance 
down the harbor ; and, soon after, the masts of the 
roj^al vessel '' Jylland " rose above the bold head- 
land ; and then the gayh^-decked ship appeared, and, 
with a flash and boom of the cannon, proclaimed the 
approach of the king of Denmark, — to the most of 
the spectators the first sight of a royal frigate bearing 
a sovereign. 

It passed slowly between the foreign frigates, 
whose ofiicers were on deck in full uniform, with 
their men ; the salutes sending their echoes far away 
among the startled sea-birds along the coast. The 
ship dropped anchor, a boat ghded ashore, and Gov. 
Finsen was soon alongside of the '^Lylland." In 
another moment he disappeared over the frigate's 
rail, into the presence of the king. The commanders 
of the fleet followed him, on the same errand. 

Later an eight-oared boat pushed out from the 
roj^al frigate, with Christian IX. on board ; and, not 
far away, the American party urged their rowers 



KING CHRISTIAN THE NINTH. 279 

witli their three oars to keep abreast, at least, of 
the king's craft, flying arrow-like to the shore. 

The king stepped upon the royal pier prepared for 
his landing, covered with a crimson canopy, and bor- 
dered with a double row of garlanded Danish flags. 
When he reached the platform to which it sloped, 
the authorities met him with their brief welcome. 
This formal reception was remarkably quiet, and 
quite characteristic of the people. Led by the gov- 
ernor, the king, his son, and suite moved rapidly 
away, followed by the bishop in velvet and satin, a 
snowy Elizabethan ruff, and a high hat, attended by 
the clergy. Behind these came the native com- 
mittee, a body of strong, fresh-looking men, of dig- 
nified bearing. Reaching the lawn in front of the 
governor's residence, the crowd gave him the first 
rousing cheer; their unsensational lives just begin- 
ning to warm up with the excitement of the memor- 
able day in their island's long history. 

King Christian's fine face, whose prevailing expres- 
sion was that of honesty and kindly feeling, every 
moment of contact with the people, won steadily 
their admiring confidence. A little incident illus- 
trated the true dignity and unaffected sincerity of 
his character. His majesty greeted a blind old man, 
taking his hand. "Who are you?" said the latter. 
'' I am called Christian the Ninth," said the king. 
" Well, then," Bjarne remarked, " if you take a 
blind man by surprise, you must expect to hear such 
questions." 

Soon Madam Finsen appeared, '' dressed in simple 
black silk, without any ornaments." Her presenta- 



280 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

tion to royalty was the perfection of dignity and 
grace. 

Then the bishop and other dignitaries, advancing 
from the foot of the garden, led by a scarlet-coated 
chamberlain, entered the governor's residence. 

In the crowd outside were seen a few of the an- 
cient costumes, mingled with the prevailing modern 
styles of dress. 

Many of the women " wore square bodices of 
some dark color, a gown with many plaits about the 
waist, with bright blue or red aprons. Nearly all 
had a flat cap, or, rather, a circular piece of black 
cloth, on the top of the head, with a long black tas- 
sel on one side, hanging from a silver or gilded cyl- 
indrical ring, an inch or two in length. Some of the 
girls had their hair braided, but many wore it loose ; 
and one maiden's magnificent pale-yellow mane sug- 
gested a descent from Brynhilde. The men showed 
only two colors, — the brown of their wadmal coats 
and trousers, and the ruddy tan of their faces. Few 
of them are handsome, and their faces are grave and 
undemonstrative ; but they inspire confidence by the 
simple strength expressed in the steady blue eye, and 
the firm set of the lips. There were plenty of tawny 
or piebald ponies, with manes like lions, in the 
streets." 

While the king is resting in the cheerful hospi- 
tality of Gov. Finsen's home, we turn to see and 
hear who came, and what they brought to the 
jubilee of a thousand 5^ears since Naddod's colony 
built their habitations on the island. 

Among the large number of foreigners besides the 



FOREIGN CELEBRITIES. 281 

American delegation, which includes Mr. Murat Hal- 
stead, England has sent Mr. William H. Gladstone, son 
of the late premier ; Mr. George Browning, secretary 
of the Society for the Encouragement of Fine Arts; 
Mr. Eirik Magnusson, one of the librarians of Ihe 
University of Cambridge ; Dr. Davicl Ker, of '^ The 
London Daily News," and many others. From the 
Scandinavian lands have come a small host of au- 
thors and artists and students, including, besides those 
already mentioned, the poets Karl Andersen and 
Nordal Eolfsen, the marine painters Sorensen and 
Boll, the antiquary Worsaae, and the Danish critic, 
Richard Kaufmann. The '' Pester Lloyd," one of the 
chief journals of Hungary, commissioned one of its 
editors. Dr. Max Nordau, to be present at the pro- 
ceedings. Even ''farthest Ind" has its represen- 
tative, in the person of Dr. G. W. Leitner, head of 
the government college at Lahore, and editor of the 
'' India Public Opinion." 

The collection of books sent to the National Li- 
brary of Iceland by American authors and scholars, 
as a contribution in connection with the celebration, 
was unexpectedly large. Mr. Henry Braem, the 
Danish consul at New York, generously forwarded, 
at his own expense, no fewer than twenty-two cases 
and twelve packages, given by Harvard College, 
Yale College, Cornell University, the University of 
Wisconsin, by the State libraries at Albany and Har- 
risburg, and by the cities of Boston, Providence, 
New York, Philadelphia, &c. Numerous packages 
were also sent forward, either directly, by Avay of 
Scotland, or through the Smithsonian Institution, 



282 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

From England, the most important gift was tliat of 
the University of Oxford, consisting of the publica- 
tions of the Clarendon Press ; a series of standard 
works, numerous enough to constitute a library of 
themselsT-es. 

The old Scandinavian spirit had responded during 
the summer, wherever the descendants of the North- 
men lived, to the appeal made by the approaching 
millennial to their historic pride. While Norwegian 
authors and societies republished ancient, and added 
new memorials of Iceland's former greatness, public 
meetings were called, and addresses voted to its peo- 
ple. Universities appointed delegates ; and even the 
Norwegian Parliament passed enthusiastically the 
motion to forward their formal congratulations. Nor 
w^as our own land, which absorbs "• every kindred, 
tongue, and people," wanting in the Norse blood, 
and its quickened flow in prospect of the millennial. 
A celebration was appointed and observed at Mil- 
waukee, an account of which is given in another 
chapter. 

The Lutheran bishop of Iceland, Petursson, culti- 
vated and finished gentleman ; Herr Thorberg, gov- 
ernor of the southern district; and the faculty of 
the university, with inferior officials, — spared no 
possible attentions to make our American delegation 
at home and happy in their visit. 

The prevailing languages in conversation, between 
the inhabitants and foreigners, were French, Danish, 
and English ; the latter more frequently employed 
by the ladies, who spoke it with '' fluency and ele- 
gance," and the first-named by the gentlemen. All 



THE MILLENNIAL, 283 

classes are sensitive on the single point, recognized 
equality, whatever the outward relation for the time. 
It is the grand old Gothic independence and self- 
respect, which demands the regard for his humanity 
and its rights claimed by another, unaffected by the 
trappings and badges of merited or unmerited dis- 
tinction. 

Sunday morning, Aug. 2, dawned gloriously upon 
the island, after the storm of previous daj^s. 

The distant jokulls, through the marvellously 
transparent air, lifted their, crowns of empurpled 
white ; beneath which, tinged with brown, their dark 
sides sloped away, like majestic robes, into shadows 
softened with the golden light. The harbor presented 
a fairy scene. The flags of a dozen nationalities flut- 
tered in the breeze ; even '' the fishing-smacks were 
gay with bunting," the interlinked banners all radi- 
ant with the splendors which played upon their ever- 
chanofing^ folds. 

It can scarcely create wonder, that, on such an 
anniversary, the sabbath lost its usual quiet, and, 
with a subdued festivity, presented the stir and ani- 
mation of a national jubilee. 

Among the banners flying from every house on 
shore, was conspicuous " Young Iceland's " banner, 
supplanting the Danish stock-fish ; its blended colors, 
white, red, and blue, with the lordly falcon embroi- 
dered in the centre. 

At half-past ten o'clock the crowd began to move 
towards the open doors of the cathedral. Tlie build- 
ing is plain, with a tower, and chime of bells. On 
this great occasion the relics of the dress of olden 
time re-appeared. 



284 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

'' The open, grassy square around the old building 
was covered with picturesque groups of people ; the 
lake in the rear of the town glittered in the sun, 
and the high peaks of Keylur slept in the blue dis- 
tance. Genuine Icelandic costumes appeared at last, 
and original and graceful they were. The women 
wore white helmets of a curious pattern ; the horn 
curving over in front, six inches above the head, the 
base richly embroidered with gold, and a white veil 
thrown over all, and floating upon the shoulders. 
The)^- had also closely-fitting jackets of dark cloth, 
heavily braided with gold or silver, and broad belts 
of silver filagree work. Not more than half a dozen 
of the men, in all, wore the old national costume. 
It consists of a jacket and knee-breeches of dark- 
gray homespun cloth, stockings of the same cloth, 
sealskin shoes, and a round hat, witli the brim turned 
up. The only ornament is a bow of red ribbon at 
the knee." 

The royal party, followed by foreign naval officers, 
soon entered the church, the choir singing an 
anthem, ten having been composed for the occa- 
sion. 

The chandeliers flung their hght upon tlie altar, 
and from gallery pillars festooned with wreaths of 
Iceland's mountain heather. A wreath of flowers 
encircled the beautiful marble font given by Thor- 
waldsen, formerly kept at Hoolum. The light-red 
walls and dark panelling of the audience-room, 
enlivened by these simple decorations, gave an 
impressive air, whose harmony with the daj^, place, 
and ceremonies, was felt by all. 



ICELAND'S THOUSAND YEARS, 285 

The usual order of Lutheran worship now opened 
before a crowded assembly, but only a fraction of 
the gathered multitude. 

''- At the same hour the same service, with its 
striking lesson for the day, — parts of the Ninetieth 
Psalm, — was celebrated in more than two hundred 
churches throughout the island. Bishop Petursson 
wore a pallium presented ages ago, by one of the 
popes, to an old Icelandic bishop ; the altar ablaze 
with candles ; and the verses, ' Lord, thou hast been 
our dwelling-place in all generations : for a thousand 
years in thy sight are but as yesterday when it is 
past,' produced, under the circumstances, feelings of 
no ordinary interest." 

The '*• Psalm of Praise," written by Mathias Joch- 
umson, the music by Sveinbjornasson, moved the Ice- 
landers as never before any multitude was stirred, 
in their humble temples of worship. 

The refrain, '^Islands Pusand Ar^^ ( '' Iceland's 
Thousand Years "), rang with solemn, subdued power 
through the cathedral, filling the eyes of the native 
population with tears of chastened gladness, and rev- 
erent homage to Him with whom " a thousand years 
are as one day." 

The sermon, intelligible only to the Icelanders, was 
delivered in the customary half-chanting style ; but 
they gave to it close attention, as is their habit in all 
religious services. 

This religious celebration of an hour and a half 
closed with another anthem of great pathos and mel- 
ody, to which the language is so well adapted. 

Without a formal procession, the invited guests 



286 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

repaired, at four o'clock, to the royal banquet at the 
University Building. Many from inland were per- 
mitted to look in upon the appetizing wonders of the 
table, which they for the first time beheld, — a con- 
tinental table spread in Iceland. Those that sat 
down to the feast were nearly all dressed in civil, 
naval, or military uniform. 

'' The royal marshal. Baron Holten, who seems 
to have been chosen, like his fellow-marshals at all 
courts, for love of good cheer and good fellowship, 
Gov. Finssen, Minister Klein, Capt. Malte-Brun, 
Adm. Lagercrautz of the Swedish navy, the bishop, 
Chief-Justice Jonasson, and, finally, hale and hearty 
Dr. Ajaltalin, were among the number. Last of all 
came Madam Finssen, preceding the king and Prince 
Waldemar. Tall and stately, in her black moire 
robe, she was as composed and perfect in manner as 
when she descended the garden steps to welcome his 
majesty. 

"• The king walked around the circle without any 
ceremony, exchanging a few words with each person 
as he passed. Prince Waldemar is not more than 
eighteen or nineteen, and still boyishly diffident in 
his manner. He seemed inclined to keep in the 
background as much as possible." 

At the blast of tlie trumpets of the band, the king, 
with Madam Finssen on his arm, led the company to 
the banqueting hall, decorated with flags and arms, 
to partake of a dinner, for the most part imported 
in cans from Copenhagen. Danish silver shone on 
the tables, and by it lay a gold-lettered bill of Dan- 
ish fare ; with a sight of all others, the rarest and 



THE PEOPLE^ S FESTIVAL. 287 

most tempting to the natives, — black Hamburg 
grapes. 

After the feast, the king rose, and warmly thanked 
the people for the hearty welcome which had greeted 
him, and gave the sentiment, ^' Long live old Ice- 
land ! " The band played ; a signal from the roof 
opened the iron tongues of the war-ships, sending 
their battle-music along the peaceful shores. 

Speeches and toasts from Klein, minister of justice, 
and other distinguished guests, completed the ban- 
quet. 

At six o'clock the crowd moved towards the hill- 
side a mile distant, to hold the ^' People's Festival ; " 
passing the prison, Reykjavik's finest structure, but 
without an inmate to appreciate its cleanly rooms 
and verdant lawn. 

The declivity is crowned with a tower, built by 
the students for sheltered pastimes, now serving the 
purpose of a beacon for the harbor, and also for in- 
land travellers. 

Upon the cleared, broad brow of the hill, around 
the speaker's stand, gathered two thousand people. 
The king's tent was pitched near, and another for 
refreshments. 

The elevation commanded a fine view of Reykjavik, 
cradled between two hills ; the harbor dotted with 
islands, and the dark ranges of hills and mountains 
piled away against the horizon. 

The king's suite entered the area, and a salute 
with hand-grenades cost a gunner his right hand. 
Then a grand old song floated away to the sea, and 
blended with its dashings upon the same shores it 



288 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 



washed a thousand years ago, changed only in out- 
lines by fire and flood. 

Speeches were next in order from foreign visitors, 
with songs between them by a male choir from the 
capital. Bayard Taylor contributed a beautiful 
poem to the occasion, extemporized on shipboard, 
and translated into Icelandic by Mathias Jochums- 
son, who has given his countrymen, in Icelandic, some 
of the plays of Shakspeare. The effusion needed no 
apology from its author. He was introduced on 
this occasion by Mr. Magnusson, as the skald from 
America. He made a brief and enthusiastic speech 
in Danish, concluding with the sentiment, '' Hail to 
Iceland, and the whole Norse race ! " 

AJNIEEICA TO ICELAND. 

W^e come, the children of thy Vinland, 
The youngest of the world's high peers, 

O land of steel and song and saga, 
To greet thy glorious thousand years! 

Across that sea, the son of Erik 
Dared with his venturous dragon's prow: 

From shores where Thorfinn set thy banner 
Theu' latest children seek thee now. 

Hail! motherland of skalds and heroes. 

By love of freedom hither hurled ; 
Fire in their hearts as in thy mountains, 

And strength like thine to shake the world! 

When war and ravage wrecked the nations, 
The bird of song made thee her home; 

The ancient gods, the ancient glory. 
Still dwelt witliin thy shores of foam. 

Here, as a foimt may keep its virtue 

W^here all the rivers turbid run. 
The manly growth of deed and daring 

Was tliine beneath a scantier sau. 



EXCURSIONS. 289 

Set far apart, neglected, exiled, 

Thy children Tvrote their runes of pride, 
"With power that brings, in this thy triumph, 

The conquering nations to thy side. 

What though thy native harps be silent? 

The chord they struck shall ours prolong: 
"We claim thee kindred, call thee mother, 

O land of saga, steel, and song! 



A half -hour's reception was given by the king, and 
improved by a large number of the assemblage. The 
impression made by the kindly dignity and interest 
in the people, by Christian IX., was expressed in 
quiet admiration by the words, '' He is very friendly, 
and we are sure he is honest." 

Aug. 5, the royal party mounted ponies for the 
geysers, through Thingvalla, to return there in time 
for the closing festivities of the Millennial. At the 
same time the American party started on a similar 
excursion. The falling rain did not prevent the 
gathering of the natives to see the cavalcades leave 
their capital. 

The interpreter of the Yankee procession was the 
daughter of Zoega ; the honest guide, if we mistake 
not, of the second tourist from this country who 
visited the island, and the first, if not the only one, 
to make sketches of its scenery. Zoega had taught 
the sprightly girl English, during the long winter 
evenings, which she was now making useful. 

The clouds broke away ; and the " stony promon- 
tory of Reykjavik " gleamed in the bursts of sunlight, 
as the companies disappeared along its narrow path, 
Bending back, through an atmosphere clear as ever 

26 



290 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

fanned the lungs of man or beast, the crack of the 
whip, and the clatter of hoofs. 

Fording the Salmon River, and on through the 
lovely vale of Soljadialr, beside its crystal stream, 
they galloped rapidly, '' the curlew and the plover 
piping their melancholy notes from the damp hollows 
sprinkled here and there." 

As the day wore away, they defiled from the gorge 
of the Almanne-Gja into Thingvalla, and halted 
near the parsonage. The rain came down, and the 
tents went up. A little later, and the king's ser- 
vants in red coats were preparing supper in the cor- 
ner of a stone wall, in a fireplace among the rocks ; 
the royal silver ''scarcely distinguished, in the twi- 
light, from republican tin" in the American camp. 

Christian IX. was quite at ease, replying to salu- 
tations with one hand, while the other held a piece 
of bread or meat. 

A pleasant day may be passed in this grand valley, 
among the numberless chasms, in whose fathomless 
depths of clear, imprisoned water glide young trout, 
whose only entrance there must have been by sub- 
terranean channels far below, connecting with the 
lake half a mile away. The ragged borders and 
the mouths of caverns are fringed with beautiful 
lichens, mosses, and two or three varieties of modest 
flowers, smihng in the gloom,, — beauty on the bosom 
of gigantic strength. 

The next night's encampment was by the Great 
Geyser, where the exhibitions of the boiUng, up- 
springing floods were enjoyed by their royal proprie- 
tor, and at the same time by the republicans, who 



A ROYAL PICNIC. 291 

had sailed over a wider sea than he had crossed, to 
see them. 

While here, the king, with his attendants, as- 
cended a hill, where he carved on the lava-rock his 
royal monogram. 

'' Among the visitors who came in from the scat- 
tered farms were several sick persons, who had made 
long visits, in the hope of finding a physician in the 
king's suite. Disappointed in this, they turned to 
Dr. Hayes and Dr. Hjaltalin. The first case was a 
man suffering from Bright's Disease ; for which, un- 
fortunately, we had no medicines. But the medi- 
cine-chest, when it was opened, attracted the visitors 
with a singular power. 

" Soon afterwards came a married couple, the 
mother carrying a baby ; which, as it needed but a 
glance to see, was almost dying of croup. They had 
carried the poor child on horseback for five hours, in 
the hope of finding relief. There was no time to be 
lost. Hot baths and poultices were ordered at the 
byre near at hand, and in the mean time an opiate 
was administered. The gasping and writhing of the 
child was too much for those strong Icelandic men. 
The mother stood, calm and firm, holding it ; but 
Zoega ran away in one direction, and Eyvindur in 
another, crying like children ; and the farmers turned 
aside their heads to hide their tears. 

" At the byre, nothing could exceed the kindness 
of the farmer's family ; in fact, of all who could 
help. The king's purveyor furnished white bread 
for a poultice ; a hot bath was made ready ; and the 
father stuffed the child's clothes into his bosom, to 



292 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

keep them warm for it. All night the people 
watched with it ; and the next morning everybody 
looked happy on hearing that its condition had 
somewhat improved." 

Aug. 6 the tents were struck, and the processions 
were on the march to Thingvalla. 

When the sun hung low upon its heights, the 
scene was rare as it was striking. Along the base 
of Almanne-Gja, tents were pitched upon the green 
slopes ; on the river-bank were four large pavihons, 
flanked with smaller ones ; from the Mount of Laws 
shot up a flagstaff, with the new banner, a white 
falcon on ground of blue, streaming in the evening 
breeze ; opposite, towards the cataract of the Ayas, 
was the platform gayly festooned, and shaded with 
the interlocking flags of the nationahties represented 
at the jubilee. Up and down the valley, upon grassy 
elevations, were grouped the thousands of people, 
and over them banners were flying ; camp-fires sent 
up their lazy columns of smoke ; while ringing laugh- 
ter, and shouts of merriment, echoed along the mu- 
nition of rocks. 

Before the entrance of the grand pavilion, was 
one of the most impressive occasions of the jubilee. 
It was the singing, by the choir, of Mr. Jochumsson's 
"Minni Konung's a Thingvelli," or, '' The King's 
Welcome to Thingvalla." 

It was sung to the fine Danish air, "King Christ-J 
ian lays aside his Sword." 



THE KING'S WELCOME TO THINGVALLA. 293 

THE KEN-Q'S WELCOIVIE TO THi:s^GYALLA. 
I. 

"With strong foot tread the holy ground, 
Our snow-land's king, the lofty-hearted, 
"Who from thy royal home has parted, 

To greet these hills that guard us round! 
Our freedom's scroll thy hand has lent us, 
The first of kings whom God has sent us, 

Hail! welcome to our country's heart! 

n. 

Land's-father, here the Law-Mount view ! 
Behold God's works in all their vastnessl 
Where sawest thou Freedom's fairer fastness, 

With fire-heaved ramparts, waters blue ? 
Here sprang the sagas of our splendor; 
Here every Iceland heart is tender : 

God built this altar for his flock! 

m. 

Here, as in thousand years of old, 
Sound the same words, a voice unended, 
As when their life and law defended 

The spearmen with their shields of gold: 
The same land yet the same speech giveth, 
The ancient soul of Freedom liveth, 

And hither, king, we welcome thee! 

IV. 

But now are past a thousand years, 
As in the people's memory hoarded, 
And in God's volume stand recorded 

Their strife and trial, woes and fears ; 
Kow let the hope of better ages 
Be what thy presence, king, presages! 

Now let the prosperous time be sure ! 

Y. 

Our land to thee her thanks shall yield, 
A thousand years thy name be chanted, 
Here, where the Hill of Law is planted, 

'Twixt fiery fount and lava-field: 
We pray All-Father, our dependence, 
To bless thee and thy far descendants. 

And those they rule, a thousand years! 
25* 



THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



The effect was powerful and very apparent. 
Calm, almost expressionless eyes grew bright, and 
the flush of excitement rose on many cheeks. The 
guests then moved into the spacious tent; and an 
excellent breakfast was served, in which Icelandic 
salmon, and other fish of native waters, reminded 
them of soil on which the tables were spread. 

Thomsson of Bessestad made the opening speech 
in Danish. 

" He repeated the old legend of the first discoverer 
of Iceland meeting a dragon, a bull breathing flame, .| 
and a giant coming down from the mountains with 
an iron staff, all three of which the hero must over- 
come before he could possess the land ; and then, 
likening Christian IX. to the hero, left us in doubt 
as to whom or what was typified by the three mon- 
sters. The compliment to the king found the Ice- 
landers warmed, and prepared to receive it ; and the 
end was his majesty's health, with nine tremendous 
cheers. The king returned thanks, with evident 
feeling, and gave as a toast, ' Prosperity to subhme 
Iceland ! ' 

'' After a health to Queen Louise of Denmark, pro- 
posed by Chief-Justice Jonasson, Eirikr Magnussen 
made the speech of the occasion. It was in Ice- 
landic;* but the rich rhythm and resonance of the 
ancient tongue were a delight to the ear. Its con- 
trast with the previous Danish speeches was surpris- 
ing. The natives present kindled and warmed as 
the speaker proceeded, until there was a burst of 
' Bravo ! ' after almost every sentence. In fact, in 
spite of the open loyalty of the speech, it was power- 



A NOVEL GATHERING, 295 

fully calculated to arouse the national pride. Mag- 
nusson spoke of the Icelanders as being themselves 
of kingly blood, as obedient only to honor and hon- 
esty, and as claiming an equal measure of respect 
with that they yielded. His words were manly, not 
defiant. The very beginning of the address, ' Sir 
King,' instead of 'Your Majesty,' struck the old 
independent keynote ; and the close, hoping that the 
second thousand years of Iceland's history might 
find the same dynasty in power, was only uttered 
after a distinct declaration of what was expected 
from the dynasty in the mean time." 

Never before had those turreted walls looked down 
on such a gathering ; for not till then, since the fire- 
waves surged over them, and sunk the molten floor 
a hundred feet or more, had a jubilee filled their 
dark embrasures with sounds of peaceful gladness. 
From Scandinavian, French, and American hearts, 
in fullest sympathy, they rose upon the evening air. 
The king and his party now appeared in the arena, 
escorted by a body of bonder, or landholders, picked 
men in standing and stature, who had met him a 
mile away. These twelve grave men formed in two 
lines of six along the path through which his majesty 
re-entered the historic spot. The brief address of 
welcome by Fredriksson, chairman of the commit- 
tee, called forth cheers so frequent and vociferous, 
that the ponies, unaccustomed to such demonstra- 
tions, displayed their resentment by sudden tangents 
from the arena ; Gov. Finssen's steed tossing him un- 
ceremoniously from the saddle ; while the king, who 
is said to be an accomplished rider, quieted his by 



296 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

gently patting the neck of the animal, who seemed 
to understand perfectly the wishes of his illustrious » 
master, or appreciate the honor of bearing royalty 
on the great occasion. Before the king, marched 
twenty-four young ladies, scattering Iceland's wild 
flowers — anemone, thyme, and saxifrage — in his 
pathway ; while the choir, standing on the lava-floor 
not far distant, sang a sacred chant, completing 
the beautiful and thriUing sights and sounds, which 
moved the most stolid of the spectators. 

The formal address of Iceland to her king was read 
by Herr Thornssen of Bessestad, expressing both 
loyalty and undisguised desire for enlarged freedom 
in the administration of home affairs. Christian's 
response was brief but gratifying, followed by cheers 
and the national anthem of Denmark. 

After an interval of rest, the usual services of 
such occasions followed, — the speeches of dele- 
gates, presentation of elegantly engrossed addresses 
from kindred nations, hterary societies, and art 
academies. 

Rain ! rain ! was Nature's order of the day, 
but this evidently did not disturb the equanimity 
of the Danish king; for, at one o'clock, his caval- 
cade stood in order, the long line of ponies impa- 
tient for the homeward march of seventy miles, 
before the midnight sun went down. 

When the royal party reached the shadows of 
Almanne-Gja, in them stood the choir, who had gone 
before to await his coming, and sing a parting song. 
Strange and impressive farewell! Over king and 
singers hung the lava battlement; behind them, the 



''REMEMBRANCE OF ICELAND:' 297 

deserted, grand old court-room of the ancient re- 
public ; before tliem, the narrow gorge through the 
Gja ; while the sounding melody floated over all, 
and died away in vanishing echoes upon the eternal 
solitudes. A gracious bow, and, one by one, the 
kingly suite disappear in a winding, ascending path ; 
the last act in the Millennial Jubilee is over ; and 
Thingvalla returns to the deep quietude of ages. 

There is an Icelandic national song, composed by 
a former governor of the northern province of the 
island, Biarni Thorarensen, when he was far away 
from his home, completing his studies at the Univer- 
sity of Copenhagen. It is called, and very appro- 
priately, the '' Remembrance of Iceland," and is 
sung to the music of '' God save the Queen ; " 
which, curiously enough, the Icelanders have 
adopted as their national air. We give a literal 
prose translation, in English, of a stanza, which ex- 
presses beautifully patriotic sentiments expressed in 
the flowing, rhythmic music of the original. The 
words are : — 

" Eldgamla Tsafold 
Astkaera fostermold, 
Fyallkonan f rid ! 
Mogum thm in until kaer, 
Medan lond girdir saer 
Og gumar girnast rnaer; 
Gljar sol a hlid." 

Old land of ice, 

Dearly beloved native land, 

Fair maid of the mountains. 

Dear thou shalt be to thy sons 

As long as men love ^Youlen, 

Or sun-gleam falls on the hillside I 



298 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

The tribute of Dr. Hayes to the musical powers 
of the Icelanders, in connection with a serenade to 
the king while at the governor's house, is very- 
beautiful : " This was the first occasion on which I 
had ever heard an Icelandic song ; and, while already- 
struck with the great sweetness of the language in 
conversation, I was now more than ever captivated 
by it when used in song. The singers, who were 
not accompanied by any musical instrument, were a 
dozen in number, and were led by a blacksmith, who 
certainly has a most remarkable voice. Several 
national songs were sung in a most excellent and 
stirring manner ; and the king was evidently moved 
by the earnestness with which these simple people 
greeted him. Hitherto I had regarded the Iceland- 
ers as a rude race of fishermen ; but here I discovered 
men with natural, inborn refinement, with true deli- 
cacy of feeling, and possessing marvellous skill in 
vocal music. So much was the king pleased, that 
he came down among the crowd, shook hands with 
the song-lovi]ig blacksmith and his brother singers, 
and thanked them all with genuine heartiness. 
After this the crowd dispersed, and all was quiet in 
the sunlit night, save the sound of ripples break- 
ing on the beach, and of the ship's bells striking the 
hours and half-hours of the watch. When I went 
aboard I took a book, and, on deck, could read dis- 
tinctly at midnight." 

Thirty years ago the government of Denmark 
began to exhibit some sense of returning justice 
towards Iceland, more neglected than any other of 
her island-provinces. Hope of better days stirred 



THE NEW CONSTITUTION, 299 

the noble heart of Jon Sigurdson, whose deep inter- 
est in the people has endeared him to Iceland. His 
influential leadership, in the direction of reform, 
secured the new constitution which the king brought 
with him to the Millennial. This document was 
divided into seven chapters, and each of these into 
as many or more paragraphs. 

The Althing, which sits every other year for six 
weeks, unless the royal edict is interposed to change 
the time or dissolve the assembly, followed by a new 
election, is composed of thirty deputies, elected by 
the people for six years ;, and six chosen by the 
king. There is an upper and lower house ; the 
former composed of the royal six, and an equal num- 
ber selected by the thirty from their number; the 
latter comprises the twenty-four left of the thirty 
members. The legislative power is in the hands of 
the king and Althing; the executive authority, in 
those of the monarch alone ; and the judicial power 
belongs exclusively to the judges. Iceland has no 
representation at Copenhagen, and has no share in 
the expenses of the realm. The governor of the 
island is appointed by the king. 

The Althing manages entirely the financial affairs 
of the island. Two-thirds of either house make a 
quorum. 

While the Lutheran is the State Church, liberty 
of conscience is secured. 

Many of the provisions touching education, free- 
dom of the press, the poor, and other public interests 
and personal rights, are excellent. It is true, the 
king holds the reins firmly in his royal hand ; but 



300 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

the constitution marks a promising era in the history 
of Iceland, and may wake up a people from death- 
like slumber, after holding a commanding position 
by the force of their own intellectual energy, to a 
future more worthy of its glorious past, and present 
possibilities. 

Upon the return to Eeykjavik, Dr. Hayes accepted 
the king's invitation to call upon him at the gover- 
nor's residence. A description of the intervicAV we 
give from his own ready pen : — 

'' I was, at half-past one, ushered in to the king 
by his courteous adjutant, Hedemann ; or, rather, the 
king ushered himself into my presence. For while 
I was passing the compliments of the day with the 
adjutant, waiting an opportunity to be announced, 
the king, hearing my voice, opened the door himself, 
and greeted me with a cheerful ' Good-morning,' and 
a cordial grasp of the hand. 

" I was more than ever impressed with his kindly 
disposition, and inborn courtesy of manner ; quahties 
which, always noticeable anywhere in anybody, are 
particularly likely to attract attention when shown 
by a Idng, among a people not accustomed to the 
ways of kings. Hence his great popularity with the 
Icelanders. 

" The governor's house is a tolerably commodious 
building, two stories high, and whitewashed. In 
front of it there is a sloping garden of more than a 
quarter of an acre ; where patches of fresh green 
grass alternate with rows of lettuce, cabbage, rad- 
ishes, and potatoes, but no flowers. Plenty of them 
there are, however, in the windows, peeping from 



INTERVIEW WITH THE KING, 301 

underneath the snow-white curtains ; and they have 
a very cheerful look. The hallway is narrow, and, 
while the king is there, is guarded by a sentinel in a 
badly-fitting red coat with silver buttons and a ser- 
geant's sword. The adjutant's room is at the end of 
the hallway, and looks out upon the rear. The 
king's reception-room is to the right, and is about 
forty feet by twenty. It is not carpeted ; but there 
is a fine rug in the centre of it, and other small ones 
here and there. I like this very common Danish cus- 
tom of clean floors, and the absence of dirty carpets. 

'' In the centre, wa6 a neat mahogany table ; fed 
some old, well-polished mahogany chairs stood about 
here and there. There were two or three smaller 
tables, a writing-desk, a few engravings on the wall, 
— one of the king, and another of the queen of 
Denmark ; and, in general, that was all. The walls 
were papered with a plain white paper ; and nothing 
could be more simple and unregal than this present 
abode of royalty. The king was attired in a com- 
mon and rather well-worn walking-dress. He 
struck me as having a good deal of the English gen- 
tleman about him. He is a good horseman, is fond 
of shooting, takes long walks, and dresses plainly. 
I am told, that, in his domSstic life, his tastes and 
habits are extremely simple ; and I should think so 
from what I observed. 

'' I asked him about the new constitution. 

" ' I hope,' said he, in reply, ' this new constitution 
will give satisfaction to the people of Iceland. They 
are a fine people, and their prosperity is very dear to 
me. In all constitutional governments, the people 

26 



302 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



must have a systematic representation, and a local 
form of administration ; and this, I think, the new- 
constitution grants them.' 

" ' If your majesty please,' I continued, ' might I 
ask how it is that the new government differs from 
the old?' 

" The king answered with great frankness, ' By 
the new constitution, there is given to Iceland (which 
hitherto had only a consultative influence over its 
own affairs, through its Althing) a full power of 
legislation and taxation ; while the affairs of Iceland 
were formerly divided between the bureaus of dif- 
ferent ministers in Denmark. Iceland has now her 
own special minister, to whose portfolio belongs all 
that concerns the island ; while such affairs as con- 
cern Denmark and Iceland in common continue to 
be in the hands of the Danish legislature.' 

" I took the liberty of asking the specific nature of 
their common affairs. 

" ' Such as concern the dynasty, intercourse with 
foreign powers, and the ordinary regulations of com- 
merce.' 

" ' Then the Icelanders are quite free, as concerns 
their local legislation ? ' 

" ' Quite so, in fact ; and I think the new arrange- 
ment will work for their prosperity and good. It is 
with this hope that I have undertaken this voyage to 
Iceland, at the time when the new arrangement comes 
into operation. Iceland has a great history, and her 
resources are large enough to give her a great fu- 
ture ; and this, taken in connection with this cele- 
bration of the thousandth anniversary of the country, 



,^i 



THE NEW CONSTITUTION. 303 

makes the mission doubly interesting and important 
to me.' 

" I spoke then of the manifestations of loyalty 
which I had everywhere witnessed. 

" ' It has, of course, not escaped me. i think the 
Icelanders understand me, and appreciate my inten- 
tions.' 

" The king said, ' No one ever doubted the 
thorough loyalty of Iceland.' He was thankful for 
the cordial greeting he had met with since he had first 
landed. He was proud to be the first of the Danish 
kings who had visited the island ; and he hoped that 
the new constitution which he had brought with 
him would promote the prosperity of the country, 
and more strongly than ever cement the bond which 
unites Iceland with Denmark. 

" The king is a capital speaker ; his voice is good, 
and his manner hearty and pleasing ; and is hand- 
some ; and if fifty-six, and the father of the future 
king of Denmark, the present king of Greece, the 
sometime-to-be queen consort of England, and the 
czarina of Russia, he does not look forty-five." 

Of the new constitution, Icelanders said, ^' Well, 
it is a good step in the right direction, and an enter- 
ing wedge for something better." Otliers spoke 
more v/armly, declaring '^ it would be all right 
enough, if we were rid of this Danish governor and 
the royal spies." This hopeful unrest is the position 
of a people pursuing their simple avocations, with no 
occasion for military force or police, and no reason 
why the treasury of Denmark should receive so large 
a portion of their scanty earnings upon the stormy 



804 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

deep, and along tlie valleys wliich. afford scarcely 
more than pasture for their flocks and herds. 

Attention has been called, within a few years, to 
the vast sulphur-fields, the largest of which are at 
Krisuvik, called by a distinguished writer on Ice- 
land's mineral resources '^ a mine of wealth." These 
could furnish the market of the world with their 
staple, and may yet open a remunerative trade 
to both the people and those who inaugurate the 
enterprise. 

Mr. Bushby, an Englishman with a shrewd fore- 
sight, some time ago purchased the Krisuvik Moun- 
tain, securing a large district. A passable road 
could be greatly improved, connecting it with Gran- 
de vik, on the coast, lying south-west from Reykjavik, 
across the Guldbringe Syssel. 

Along the Breida Fiord, on the north-west coast, 
the French fisheries number over two hundred and 
fifty vessels, employing seven thousand men. 

In the south-west corner of the Guldbringe Syssel, 
near Buela, is Iceland's coal-mine^ the " Surturbrund ; " 
ledges of bituminous wood, evidently formed by the 
accumulation of drift-wood in the ages past, brought 
there by the Gulf Stream from America, and the 
current that sets in from the northern coast of 
Asia. These ocean-rivers have floated down to 
treeless Iceland materials for building and fuel, — a 
very providential provision for their supply. Prof. 
Bjarnasson furnishes some notes of interest on these 
mineral resources. 

'' As for the sulphur-mines in Iceland, there are 
very important ones in two places : the Krisuvikir- 



MINES, 805 

namur (the mines of Krisuvik), on the southern coast 
of the great peninsula, limiting the south side of the 
'Faxafloi (the gulf of Faxi) ; and the various mines 
in the * Pingeyjarsyrla, in north-east of Iceland 
(Hlidarnamur, Fremrinamur, Peystareykjanamur, 
Kroflunkmur), in the vicinity of the volcano Krafla 
and the lake Myvatn. I cannot tell how valuable 
those mines are ; but according to a statement of 
Prof. Johnstrup of Copenhagen, who, sent by the 
government in 1871, made a journey to Iceland 
to examine the mines in the Pingeyjarsyrla, some of 
them, especially the Hlidarnamur, — the mines of 
Hlid, Reykjahlid, a noted farm on the north-eastern 
shore of Myvatn (the lake of gnats), must be of very- 
great value. Those northern mines of Iceland the 
government rented to an Englishman, Alfred Loch, 
for a term of fifty years. But this rent is very 
low, and much lower than it had been proposed 
by the Alping, the renter having only to pay fifty 
pounds sterling the first year ; the second year ten 
pounds more, &c. ; adding ten pounds to the amount 
every year for five years, when the rent has amounted 
to a hundred pounds, which rent is to be paid for 
forty-four years. Security of only five thousand 
Danish Rigsdalers was asked. In connection with 
this it ought to be observed, that in the sixteenth 
century, in the reign of the Danish King Frederick 
II., the government began to work those mines ; and 
then the surplus of the production of them in one year 
was ten thousand Rigsdalers. As you know, there 
is in some places, especially in the western part of 

*p=tii. 

26* 



306 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

the country, a kind of coal called surbarbrandur ; but 
hitherto it has been of no use, caused by the great 
difficulty of transportation ; and in 1871, the com- 
mon species of coal has been discovered in the 
Myrasysla. Lime is found in Mount Esja in the 
vicinity of Reykjavik ; and surely it is to be had in 
many more places ; and the Iceland calcareous spar 
(called " silfurberg," which means silverstone) is 
found in great quantities in the Helgusladafjall (the 
mountain of Helgurtadir, a farm thus named) in 
the '' Reydarfjordur," the largest of the fiords in the 
eastern coast of the country. This mine has been 
wrought in the last decennaries, but without energy." 

Emigration from Iceland ! and that after ten cen- 
turies without anything of the kind, beyond coloniz- 
ing Greenland, and a few other similar attempts else- 
where by the old vikings. It evidently is the turn 
of the tide in Icelandic national life; and no one 
can see the end of the movement. It may yet leave 
the historic isle a memorial only of past marvels of 
prowess and progress ; in whose sheltered coves, and 
along whose fiords, the fishermen alone will have 
their habitations. 

We are glad to put on record the views of an in- 
telligent Icelander, and of an American Norseman, 
on this quiet yet significant exodus. 

Writes Prof. Bjarnasson : ''I answer your letter 
in great haste, being very busy in writing and 
sending my last letters to Iceland this year. I am of 
the opinion, that the future of Iceland will be hap- 
pier and brighter than its past for many centuries. 
Although its new constitution, this year granted by 



EMIGRATION, 307 

the King of Denmark, does not fulfil the wishes of 
the people, and in some points may be very deficient, 
it will make the Icelanders able to develop their abili- 
ties to a much higher degree than they have been 
allowed to do hitherto. The resources of the country, 
though very few, being mainly raising sheep, and 
fishing, must be able to yield much larger quan- 
tities of support than at this time. The want of 
knowledge of practical sciences has hindered those 
resources from being developed. The government in 
past times has entirely neglected the countrj^ in that 
respect ; but at present the Icelanders are convinced 
of the necessity of rapid improvements in that 
branch of their national education ; and the legisla- 
tive power now bestowed upon the general assembly 
(Alping, Althing) makes them able to amend 
this want. The people have got a great deal more 
courage to act than before, and are not obliged to 
look for assistance in its social and political progress 
only to the Danish government, as they have begun to 
be acquainted with some other foreign countries and 
nations than that of Denmark. The study of the 
national tongue and literature among the scholars of 
Iceland is making great progress ; and the literature 
has increased considerably in the Jast years. 

" Notwithstanding those bright prospects, I think 
the emigration from Iceland, commenced years ago, 
will • continue. The emigration only confirms the 
assertion, that the people have more courage and 
inclination to act than ever before. The horizon of 
the common people of Iceland has been extended, 
and they are longing for better circumstances than 



308 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

those of their past. The emigrants wish a more 
rapid progress in their social and economical matters 
than may be hoped for at home. Therefore they 
emigrate to America. The number of the Icelandic 
emigrants in America last winter was about two 
hundred ; and of those about one-half lived in Can- 
ada (Ontario), and the rest in the United States, 
mainly in different places of Wisconsin and 
Michigan. This summer about three hundred and 
sixty emigrants came from Iceland, most of them 
settling in Canada." 

Prof. Anderson, whose father came to America 
in the first ship which brought Norse emigrants to 
its shores, and who has '' consecrated his life to the 
North European or Gothic languages, history, and 
literature," adds, — 

" The Icelanders began to emigrate to America, 
their ancient Vinland, in 1872 ; and there are now 
about one thousand in this country, half of whom are 
in Wisconsin, and the other half in Canada. Four 
thoroughly educated Icelanders are among this num- 
ber, — Prof. Jon Bjarnasson, who is now in Luther 
College, Decorah, lo. ; Paul Thorackson, who is 
preparing for the ministry in St. Louis, Mo. ; Olafur 
Olafsson, a mechanic (a self-made man) ; and Jon 
Olafsson, a poet, who was compelled to leave Ice- 
land on account of his strong republican tendencies. 
He is a thoroughly educated man, and writes poetry 
of the highest order. The last two, Olafur Olafsson 
and Jon Olafsson, have been furnished means by a 
gentleman in New York, and have gone to Alaska, to 
see whether that would not prove an excellent place 



ICELAND'S FUTURE. 809 

for the Icelanders to make a settlement in; btlt I 
have grave doubts about this Alaska business : I mean, 
about its expediency. It may, however, look better 
in time. It is said that our government intends to 
give active co-operation, and much depends on this. 

'' So long as Denmark does not make Iceland per- 
fectly independent, I think the Icelandic emigration 
will increase ; and I see no hopes that more will be 
done voluntarily, at any early day, than was done 
last 2d of August, when the Danish king gave the 
island a new constitution. It is my opinion, however, 
that, if the Icelanders were left to themselves, they 
would become satisfied, and Iceland would soon 
have five hundred thousand, instead of seventy 
thousand inhabitants. The island is large, and has 
great resources that are yet undeveloped. Their 
fisheries, for instance, might alone return a revenue 
of millions and millions, instead of the paltry thou- 
sands that are now realized. A nation in which 
every man is educated (and such is the case in Ice- 
land) has great possibilities, if it is let alone ; and 
we may yet see a unique republic thrive in the float- 
ing sanctuary of Gothic liberty, poetry, and liter- 
ature." 

It is not impossible that the locomotive may yet 
mingle its steam with that of sulphur mountains in 
Iceland. Although now only horses carry burdens, 
enterprise may yet build short railways from those 
exhaustless mines to the nearest ports. Stranger 
things have been done already in remote lands, un- 
til the " iron horse, whose sinews are of steel, and 
whose provender is fire," thunders over Asiatic plains 
and Egyptian deserts. 



310 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

Already the telegraph has been in prospect. In 
influential quarters in England, a North-Atlantic 
line from Scotland to the Faroes, two hundred and 
fifty miles; thence to Iceland, three hundred and 
fifty more ; next touching Greenland, five hundred 
farther ; and landing the American end of the cable 
on the coast of Labrador, — has been earnestly advo- 
cated. 

Sixty years ago, among prominent statesmen, a 
scheme for the annexation of Iceland to England 
was agitated ; an arrangement which would give that 
realm resources of vast importance, and bind to- 
gether kindred nations. Such a transfer of alle- 
giance, however, seems now quite improbable. And 
yet, amid the increasing changes in political and 
social existence, along with impending crises whose 
results no political seer can estimate, the future of a 
deeply interesting, but hitherto almost unknown and 
unmolested people, can only be the object of purest 
speculation. 

But whatever there may be in the future, of 
progress and increased intercourse with nations of 
greater commercial activity and social refinement, 
it is to be devoutly hoped, that the vices of outside 
civilizations will not weaken the sterhng integrity of 
the prevailing character of the people, nor their sim- 
ple, intelligent faith in God. Material growth at the 
expense of moral stamina has always been the fasci- 
nating, deceptive process of national decay and death. 

We copy, as a curiosity of the kind, a poster of the 
third public service, which was very conspicuous 
along the streets of Reykjavik, before the Millennial 
Jubilee. 



A UNIQUE POSTER. 311 

THE THIRD ACT OF THE MILLENNIAL DRAMA. 

PJODHATID. 
a 

OSKJU HLED 

2aii August, 1874. 

Kl. Sh e. m. 

safnast menn saman a Austurvelli, eg er setlast til, ad menn gangi 

padan I fylking, 

6 i rod, a hatldarstadinn. 

Kl. 4r 6h e. m. 

Esedur og songvar. 

Kl. 6^-lli e. m. 

Skemtanir, svo sem songur, hljodfseraslattur. 

dans, o. fl. 

Kl. Hi e. m. 

Flugeldar miklir 

a 

lilTLU-OSKJUHLID. 

Sjerhver, sem sseklr hatidna, og dskar ad vera fyrir innan hid hrein- 
sada svsedi, fuUordnir edur born, eru vskyldir ad bera merki, er 
kostar 16 sk., og fsest keypt i solubudum herra Consul M. Smitos og 
hera kaupmanns V. Fishers, her i baenum. 

It was, of course, after the fashion of all posters, in very large 
and very small letters. The following is the translation : — 

NATION'S HIGH TIDE (THJODHATID) 

At Oskjuhlid (Basket Slope Hill,) 

August 2, 1874, 

at 3^ P. M., 

the people will gather together at the east wall (Austervelli), and it 

is meant that the people go thence in procession, six abreast, to the 

festin place. 

From 4 to 0^ o'clock. 
Speeches and Songs. 

From 6i to 11 i. 

Amusements, such as Songs, Music, Dancing, &c. 

From 11^, 

Fireworks (Flugeldar Miklir); literally, great flying fires. 

Each one who seeks the high tide, and wishes to be inside the 

cleared space, must wear a badge, which costs 16 skillings (8 cents. ) 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

The Millennial at the "West. — ]N"orsemen in Prairie-Land. — First 
Icelandic Service. — The Sermon. — Speeches. — Banners. — My 
Kative Land. 

A NORSE millennial in Prairie-land! The 
cycles of history are forever mocking all hu- 
man wisdom, and bringing, in their sweep, impress- 
ive or startling surprises. 

The descendants of the vikings of many centuries 
ago are seeking a home, not only on a continent 
their galleys touched before the parents of Colum- 
bus were born, but among the relics of races of 
whose origin, and of whose advent here, no records 
can tell us ; their mute, uninscribed mounds as yet 
giving no certain answer to the questioning of the 
antiquarian. 

Aug. 2, 1874, the Norse population residing in 
and near Milwaukee, including about seventy native 
Icelanders, gathered in the Danish Lutheran Church 
of Pastor Gulmuyder. 

The usual service introduced the sermon by Prof. 
Jon Bjarnasson. An outline of this first Icelandic 
sermon upon his native island, by one born and edu- 
cated there, will have an interest independent of 
any views of a purely religious character ; the more 
so, as even these represent the prevailing sentiment 

312 



A SERMON, 313 

of the people, and not of a single or several ecclesi- 
astical organizations. 

He preached from the text appointed for all the 
ministers of Iceland as their theme on the Millennial 
Sunday. It is found in the Book of Psalms, xc. 1-4, 
12-17. He showed how Jehovah had been the ref- 
uge of the Icelanders during all the generations for 
the thousand years since the settlement of their 
island ; that the people, few in numbers, like Israel in 
olden time, had been kept, in a wonderful mnnner, 
from destruction. In illustration, he noticed some of 
the most important events in the history of Iceland, 
from the land-taking (land-naiii) time to the present. 
In the heathen age, the forefathers were led away 
from their native land, to the cold and lonely island 
in the great northern ocean, that they might be 
taught their own weakness, as compared with his 
omnipotent grace. It was just the right place to 
tame the proud viking race, trusting in their own 
might and strength. It was also a resting-place for 
the heroes, weary with fighting and the tumults of 
war. The Pagan religion prevailed in Iceland long 
enough to prepare the people, by softening their 
hearts, and awakening a longing for Christ's redeem- 
ing word. To show how near the most educated 
Icelanders in the first century of their history were 
to Christianity, he referred to Ingemund the Old, 
the heathen, who, dying, prayed God to pardon his 
enemy who had slain him ; and Thorkel Ulaane, 
■who would worship no other god but Him who had 
created the sun, and in his death prayed to the 
Father of light that he should be a light unto his 
spirit in the darkness of death. 27 



814 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

In brief outline, the events in Icelandic history, 
after the introduction of Christianity, were sketched ; 
the establishment and development of a govern- 
mental system, which is gradually becoming more 
and more recognized among the civilized nations of 
the earth, as the one which, in its fundamental prin- 
ciples, better than any other corresponds with the 
spirit and spread of Christianity ; the creation and 
preservation of wise statutes, the main pillars of a 
free and progressive commonwealth, and which, in 
new forms, have been called to life among some of 
the noblest and mightiest nations of the earth. The 
discovery of America, the new world of civilization 
and Christianity, was no unimportant part of the 
mission of the Norsemen. And now, just at the 
close of the first period of a thousand years, Jeho- 
vah called to the children of the land once more 
with his mighty voice, '' Come again ! " This voice 
they had to obey ; and thus Icelanders had returned 
to America ; and on this day a little band were gath- 
ered here, also, in the far-off America, to praise the 
Lord for their history through the many bygone cen- 
turies ; and with pious devotion to get new courage, 
a rejuvenated strength of faith, to work in the 
future ; and, by a Christian life in this land, call 
back to memory the recollection of the first visit of 
Icelanders to this part of the world, in a brighter 
and fairer light. 

And then the treasures of literature, especially in 
history and poetry, which had been produced in the 
poorest and most isolated country in Christendom, 
had been written in their own pure and powerful ver- 



A SERMON. 315 

nacular ; and that, too, in an age when the European 
nations generally were in a state of mental lethargy, 
and Christianity withered among the nations ; when 
the little that was written was composed in a foreign 
tongue that had long been dead, and which the mass 
of the people did not understand. The Icelandic 
language contained the key to the history of the 
dark middle ages. 

Passing over to the evil days of Iceland, when its 
liberty was taken away. Prof. Bjarnasson spoke feel- 
ingly of his native island, in its time of trouble 
and misfortune ; but pointed with pride to the fact, 
that the Church of Christ had perhaps never flour- 
ished more at any time, than just during the saddest 
period of political oppression. 

God had also spoken to the Icelanders through 
volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, inundations, de- 
structive epidemics, famines. His voice in the ele- 
ments had been loud and clear; and through all 
these things he had drawn the heart of the Iceland- 
ers to himself. It was a wonderful miracle, that, in 
view of all oppression from an unfriendly govern- 
ment, and the inclemency of the elements, the Ice- 
landic people still existed, and could praise the holy 
name of God, after a life of one thousand years. 
The professor's sermon was very eloquent and inter- 
esting. 

After the service at the church, the Icelanders 
congregated outside the church, to move in proces- 
sion to a park which they previously had engaged 
for the festivities of this day. The procession was 
led by two standard-bearers, clad in the recently 



316 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

restored Icelandic costume, wliich is very pretty and 
appropriate. One of them carried the star-spangled 
banner, the other the national Icelandic banner, 
which represents the ''falco Islandicus" on a sky- 
blue background. The standard-bearers were fol- 
lowed by the men and then the women ; some clad 
in their classical and poetical s^ai^^-costume, while 
others wore their no less elegant and becoming cap- 
dress. There being free admission to the park for 
everybody, a large number, in addition to the Ice- 
landers, congregated, chiefly of Scandinavians. The 
flags were placed in an appropnate place, and the 
people rested a while. The skaut is a large white 
head-dress. 

After a brief interval of rest, the celebrated 
Icelandic poet and republican, Jon Olafsson^ ascended 
the tribune, and delivered the speech of the day. 
He recounted, in appropriate words, the political 
events in the history of Iceland, and grew especially 
eloquent when he spoke of its struggle for independ- 
ence during the last century ; which, in spite of the 
new constitution that had been given to Iceland this 
year by the Danish king, certainly would be contin- 
ued in the future. He wished the dear land of their 
fathers success and prosperity in this struggle, and 
asked for the blessings of heaven for the Icelandic 
nation ; and, finally, requested all present to drink a 
cup of gladness for Iceland, which was done with re- 
peated shouts of '' Hurrah ! " Then an earnest speech 
was delivered by Olafiir Olafsson^ in regard to the 
Icelanders who have emigrated to America ; encour- 
aging them to preserve unity and brotherly love 



ADDRESSES. 317 

towards each other. The theological student, Paul 
Thorlaksson., spoke in Norse for America, the adopted 
land of the emigrated Icelanders. He called attention 
to the Norsemen, as that part of the American people 
which the Icelanders especially ought to regard as their 
brothers and friends ; first, on account of the old re- 
lationship, but not less, because they (the Norsemen) 
had received the Icelanders in this country with 
open arms and cordial friendship. He closed by ex- 
pressing their most hearty thanks of his countrymen 
to the Norsemen. For this speech, the Rev. Gulmuy- 
der, with thanks in behalf of the Norsemen, in well- 
chosen words wished the Icelanders success and 
prosperity in America. Then the audience was ad- 
dressed by Prof. Jon Bjarnasson^ who spoke- of the 
Icelandic tongue, encouraging his countrymen to 
esteem it an honor to preserve the dialect, in this 
land also, as pure as possible. Finally, Jon Olafsson 
ascended the tribune the second time, to remind the 
Icelanders of some very notable foreigners, who, in 
these later times, had turned up as friends of Ice- 
land, — the celebrated poet, Bjornstjerne Bjornson^ 
who, by his excellent articles about Iceland in " Norsk 
Folkeblad," had awakened so great interest iu Nor- 
way for the people in their renewed political strug- 
gle. But especially did he speak of the scholars in 
America who during this year had shown so much 
attention, and done so great honor, to Iceland, by 
sending to that remote island a large collection of 
books. Prof. W. Fisk^ of Cornell University, in 
Ithaca, N.Y., was the one scholarly American who 
had done the most in this matter ; and, among the 

27* 



818 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Norsemen, Prof. R. B. Anderson of the University 
of Wisconsin, in Madison. Both were warmly inter- 
ested in Iceland and its future history. They had 
both been invited to the Millennial, but were unable 
to gladden the hearts of their Icelandic friends by 
their presence. Therefore, before the celebration 
closed, three rousing cheers for these honored friends 
of Iceland were given. Theirs was the last toast, 
and it was drunk with intense enthusiasm. Between 
the speeches several Icelandic songs were sung, and 
some of the Scandinavians took part in these. Dur- 
ing the celebration the most perfect order prevailed ; 
and, about nine o'clock in the evening, all went home 
in excellent spirits, having celebrated the first Ice- 
landic festival in the New World with far greater 
success than was anticipated by the most sanguine 
Icelander or Norseman. 

Prof. Anderson's address was an eloquent tribute. 
He said, — 

'' It is a source of great pleasure to me, that I have 
an opportunity to speak to my Icelandic friends on 
this their day of festivity. 

'' I have for several years spent a part of my lei- 
sure hours in studying the songs and Sagas of your 
ancestors ; but I never ventured even to hope that it 
ever should be permitted me to speak face to face ivith 
the descendants of Ingolf and Lief, and, least of all, 
here in the remote West. It is not more than a year 
since I met the first Icelander. I visited him in his 
own home in La Crosse. I had an opportunity to 
talk with him about Iceland and its Sagas ; and 
heard, for the first time in my life, the language of 



FROF, ANDERSON'S ADDRESS. 319 

my ancestors. He was friendly and hospitable ; but 
what interested me most of all was, that he actually 
was an Icelander, 

"Since then, I have had the honor and pleasure 
of receiving visits from several excellent Icelanders ; 
and among these are, especially, your celebrated 
skald and republican Jon Olafsson, and your thor- 
ough linguist and theologian Paul Thorlackson, who 
is no less genial as a companion than he is proficient in 
his scholarship. I need not assure you that I value 
their visits very highly, and that both of them com- 
pletely have won my heart. 

" I love the Icelanders, because they are of the 
same blood as I am. The Icelanders and Norsemen 
are one people ; they are brothers who have now 
been separated just a thousand years ; and what a 
remarkable event it is, that we now meet again in thq 
distant Vesterheim (America) ! 

" I love them for the spirit of freedom and inde- 
pendence which they manifested when after the 
battle of Hafrfjord, when Harald Haarfagr usurped 
the freehold tenure of property from the peasants, 
they sacrificed every thing to protect their liberties, 
and chose to leave their fertile farms in Norway, 
risk their lives on the stormy sea, and settle down 
amid the jokuUs, glaciers, volcanoes, lava-streams, 
geysers, and gravel-deserts of Iceland, rather than to 
surrender their udal-right to Harald Haarfagr. They 
demonstrated the truth of the principles laid down 
in Odin's High Song in the Elder Edda, where it is 
said, — 



320 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

* One's own house is better, 
Though it be humble : 
Each man is master at home. 
Though a man own but 
Two goats, and a willow-thatched house, 
'Tis better than beggiag. 
The man's heart bleedeth 
At every meal-time, 
Who his food beggeth.' 

And standing liere, as we do, face to face with Ice- 
landers, we Norsemen cannot but feel a sense of 
shame in behalf of our ancestors, when we reflect 
that thej^ did not manifest the same love of liberty 
as your own. 

"I love and respect the Icelanders, because in 
spite of the severe climate, the long winters, when 
the sun nearly or entirely disappeared from above 
the horizon, and nothing but streaks of northern 
lights painted the colors of the rainbow on their 
gloomy sky, they produced skalds and saga-men, who 
look in vain for their peers among all the nations of 
the earth. By this they gave evidence to the human 
race, that it is liberty that unfolds the blossoms of 
poetry and literature. Was it not in the time of the 
republic, that the literature of Greece blossomed 
most luxuriantly? Were not the most celebrated 
Roman authors produced in the time of the Roman 
republic ? Search the history of the world through 
and through, and 3^ou will find that liberty is 
the grand elixir that has blessed the nations of the 
earth. Nay, where thrives aught good and beautiful 
and great in slavery ? Smother the pasture, and the 
grass will not grow green ; bind the eagle, and it will 
die on its lofty pinnacle ; dam the stream, that hastens 



1 



PROF, ANDERSON'S ADDRESS. 321 

in its musical meanderings to the sea, and it will 
soon turn into a putrid pool. Nature, strong and 
free, hates all bondage. Can, then, the fountains of 
the spirit, the flights of thought, endure bondage ? 
Shall truth only shine beautifully, locked up in its 
own heart, hke lamenting Aladdin in his narrow cave ? 

* N'o press ! lift thy valiant arms, 
Free the world, in all thy wrath, 
From bondage.' 

" Because the Icelanders preserved the spirit of 
freedom, their island became a sacred sanctuary in 
which the old Gothic literature was preserved. 

" Yes, Iceland has a literature, Avhich will yet be 
loved and admired throughout the world. The time 
will come, when Saemund's Edda and Snorri's Edda, 
Heimskringla, Njalla, Egill, Skallagrims Saga, Lax- 
dsela, and Grsetti's Saga, will be found in the house 
of every man of culture and letters over all the 
earth. 

'' In connection with this, I will add that Iceland 
has reason to be proud of its excellent sons which it 
has fostered in modern times. Vigfusson and Eiri- 
kur Magnusson and J6n Hjabtalin are worthy repre- 
sentatives of your race in England and Scotland. 
The world-famed sculptor, Albert Thorwaldsen, was 
an Icelander. A friend of me and of 3^ou, Prof. Fiske, 
recently wrote that lie regards Jon Sigurdsson 
as one of the most remarkable men now living ; wor- 
thy of being placed by the side of Gladstone in 
England, as a scholar and a statesman. Permit me 
to propose three cheers for this noblest man among 



322 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 



2 



the Icelanders, on this your millennial celebration. 
Long may he live ! Permit me also to remind you 
on this your day of festivity, of the German schol- 
ars, Konrad Maurer and Theodore Moebins, the 
Englishman Dr. Dasent, and the American Prof. 
Fiske. I name these foreigners to-day, for they 
have all distinguished themselves by their successful 
cultivation of the Icelandic literature and history. 

" I love and respect the Icelanders, because they 
never permitted despotism to quench the spark of 
liberty in their breasts, but even now dare to arise 
and demand a recognition of their rights. No, my 
friends, the spirit of freedom has not been dead 
these five hundred years, nor disappeared with the 
outward forms of liberty. Through these five hun- 
dred years, the spirit of freedom has shone upon their 
minds and hearts like the glowing colors that tint 
the clouds in the evening after the sun has set. The 
spirit of freedom has lingered like auroral rays over 
the sunken Iceland, — proofs of independence, which 
have been developed like autumnal flowers in this 
unfortunate epoch of Iceland; and, in the present 
seventy thousand inhabitants of that far-off island, 
there shine no less than seventy thousand stars of lib- 
erty. Yes, my friends, there is hope beaming forth 
out of all this. Did not bright rays of Icelandic 
independence flash from the Thingvalla meeting a 
year ago ? 

" The Icelander can, like his chill and austere 
island, seem cold and indifferent ; but in his veins 
the blood runs warm as the water in the geysers. 

''I have only to add, that it is a great pleasure to 



PROF. ANDERSON'S ADDRESS, 323 

me to meet you in America, the land of liberty, 
where the banner of equal rights and of progress is 
unfurled to the breeze. And let me hope that you 
may here find for yourselves and for your chil- 
dren the freedom and independence, on account of 
the loss of which your fathers, a thousand years 
ago this summer, left Norway, — that freedom that 
your people, whom you left behind you within the 
ice-clad walls of your native island, are striving to 
re-establish. Born, as I am, an American citizen, I 
take the liberty to bid you, and as many of your 
kindred as desire to come and enjoy freedom to- 
gether with us, welcome to the great and rich and 
independent America. Here is ample room for us 
all ; here every one may think and speak his convic- 
tions ; and here every one may worship God accord- 
ing to the dictates of his own conscience. 

" It would be exceedingly gratifying to me, if you 
could find a place where you could form a settlement, 
in order that you may be the better able to extend 
to each other a helping hand ; but especially in order 
that you may be able to preserve for yourselves and for 
your children the dear old Icelandic language, and 
unite your strength in vindicating the claims of gen- 
uine Norseland speech on American soil. 

'^ We send to-day our greeting home to ' eyna vid 
norduskant' (the isle by the North Pole)." 

In connection with the notes upon this celebra- 
tion, we have the views of Prof. Bjarnasson, upon 
the general moral and social character of liis country- 
men, which have been criticised, often unjustly we 
think, by travellers. He wrote in pure Icelandic, 



o24 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

and Prof. Anderson translated into English. They 
will have peculiar interest, from their simplicity and 
truthfulness, to all thoughtful minds. He says, — 

'' The Icelanders, I believe, are quite as religious 
as the majority of the Gothic-Germanic peoples ; but 
the religion is more of an intellectual and reflective 
than emotional character. Hence the Icelander is, to 
a great extent, a stranger to fanaticism : a cool, rea- 
soning reflection is, on the other hand, a predominat- 
ing trait in the spiritual life of the people. Many 
strangers have thought that the leading tempera- 
ment of the Icelanders is the phlegmatic. But I 
think this to be a mere assertion, founded upon a 
superficial knowledge of the people. It cannot be 
denied that the Icelanders frequently appear to be 
quite phlegmatic ; they do not, as a general thing, 
show their emotions very much ; but, that this is far 
from being real, any one may convince himself by 
forming a more intimate acquaintance with them. I 
am more inchned to believe that melancholy is their 
predominating temperament, of course not without a 
considerable amount of the phlegmatic. The Ice- 
lander is, to be sure, slow to receive new impres- 
sions ; but the impressions which he has received, he 
clings to with the greater tenacity, and is not apt to 
give them up before they have been properly ma- 
tured in his soul. In the Sagas, this peculiar trait in 
the character of many Icelanders is expressed by the 
word ' tortryggr^ that is, slow of confidence in all 
that is new and strange ; but also furthermore by the 
words ' tryggr ok vinfastr^^ that is, faithful in friend- 
ship ; likewise by the word ' langrakinn^ that is, 



CHARACTER OF TEE ICELANDERS. 325 

slow to forget (insults). This is a universal ctarac- 
teristic of the Icelandic people, and shows itself not 
the least in their religion. This manifested itself 
already at the introduction of Christianity in Ice- 
land. The people were slow to give up heathenism ; 
their minds had to have time for preparation and 
rejflection ; but, when Christianity was introduced, it 
was without any violence whatever. The same was 
the case with the reformation, although there was 
at this time some bloodshed. The last Catholic 
bishop in Iceland, Jon Areson (1560), was be- 
headed; but this was caused by personal poUtical 
interests, not by the change of faith. The Iceland- 
ers have never been willing to believe blindly : they 
must examine for themselves the doctrine which 
they are required to believe. On the other hand, 
there is no doubt that many a zealot will be inclined 
to accuse them of rationalism on account of their 
speculative, investigating nature ; but I venture to 
assert that true religion and genuine devotion, as 
compared with other peoples, is quite general in Ice- 
land. From olden times it has been the prevailing 
custom, all over the land, to engage in devotional 
exercises every day, especially during the winter. 
For this purpose are used, on the week-days, various 
short devotional chapters from older and more mod- 
ern times ; while on Sundays, and other sacred days, 
sermons are read from so-called house-postils on the 
various Gospels of the ecclesiastical year. Among 
these house-postils, the one written by Bishop J6n 
Thorkelsson Vidalm (1720) is the best on account 
of the heroic Christianity, unsurpassed eloquence, 

28 



826 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. , 

thorough classical training, peculiarly northern tone 
of language, and glowing warmth of faith, of its 
author. The home-devotion in Iceland consists not 
only in reading, but also in singing. Both before 
and after the reading quite long hymns are sung. 
During no season of the year is family devotion 
considered so important as during Lent (Quadra- 
gesima) before Easter. For this time there is a 
special set of devotional books, treating exclusively 
of the sufferings of Christ. Of these books, we may 
especially mention fifty passion-hj^mns of the minis- 
ter Hallgrimur Petursson (1674) ; a work that is 
universally admitted to be a perfect masterpiece of 
literature, which has stirred every Icelander's heart 
to the bottom, expressing, as it really does, the no- 
blest and most elevated feelings of every Christian. 

" The public worship always begins and ends with 
a prescribed prayer, which the deacon reads. The 
sermon ends with a general blessing and prayer. 

'^ Children are usually baptized a few days after 
they are born, not in the churches, but at home, 
both on account of long and diflScult roads to the 
churches, and on account of the severe and change- 
able weather. The youths are confirmed by the 
minister at the age of fourteen to sixteen, and are 
prepared for confirmation exclusively at home until 
the last year, when they are instructed by the minis- 
ter. The ministers usually are present at the mar- 
riage-feasts, which are celebrated throughout the 
country with perhaps too great expense. Nor are 
funeral-feasts uncommon. There is never a funeral, 
unless the minister is present, who then throws three 



NORSEMAN'S SONG. 327 

small spades of dirt on the grave ; he always speaks 
to the mourners in the church, and frequently also 
in the house of the departed one, before the coffin is 
taken to the graveyard. Nearly all Icelandic 
churches are situated in the graveyards, wherefore 
every corpse is brought into the church before it is 
buried. A solemn hymn is always sung while the 
grave is being filled with dirt; and, when this is 
done, the funeral company usually proceed into the 
church again, where the minister reads a prayer. 
This ends the ceremony." 

The Millennial Jubilee was not only celebrated 
throughout Norway and Sweden, but also in parts 
of England and Germany. There was an enthusi- 
astic celebration in Paris, and one in Rome. It was 
observed by Scandinavians of this country at Chicago, 
New York City, and noticed at Cornell University, 
Ithaca, besides a few other places. 

We close these annals with the Norseman's love to 
his own colder home, expressed in lines, — 

"TO MY NATIVE T^A:tTD.'* 

The spot of earth where, from the heart of woe, 
My eye first rose, and, in the purple glow 
Of morning, and the dewy smile of love, 
Marked the first gleamings of the Power above, — 

WTien, wandering at its birth, my spirit rose, 
Called forth from nothing by his word sublime, 

To run its mighty race of joys and woes. 
The proud coeval of immortal time, — 

"Where my first trembling accents were addressed 

To lisp the dear, the unforgotten name; 
And, clasped to mild affection's throbbing breast. 

My spmt caught from her the Idndly flame, — 



828 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

My country ! have T found a spot of joy, 

Througb the wide precincts of the checkered earth. 
So calm, so sweet, so guileless of alloy, 
As thou art to his soul, whose hest employ 
Is to recall the joys that blest his birth? 



SUPPLEMENTAL CHAPTER. 

CUanges in Customs and Peculiarities. — Different Forms and Pi'o- 
nunciation of Words. — Libraries and Newspapers in Iceland. — 
Sporting. — Modern National Sacred Melodies. 

Q1 INCE these sketches of Iceland were in type, the 
^O interesting correspondence with our Danish and 
Icelandic professors at the West has furnished a few 
items of interest to all readers, in whose minds an 
abiding interest in the Norse people and language is 
awakened. For these, we add this supplemental 
section. 

And here we may add, that to follow the process 
and dates of transition from ancient to modern cus- 
toms has not been attempted ; but simply an outline 
picture of the island during its thousand years of 
settlement. We give two or three illustrations. 
Emigrants of intelligence affirm that the form of 
hospitality attending '' good-night," which tourists 
relate, does not to any extent, if at alL exist beyond, 
it may be, exceptional cases of familiar hospitality 
in the domestic sanctuary. It is also stated that the 
singular method of lighting the humble habitations 
on the Westman Islands, during the last fifty years 
has disappeared ; and that the deadly disease which 
for centuries prevailed among cliildren has yielded 
to medical skill, and no longer makes it impossible 
to rear them there. 

28* 829 



330 THE ISLAND OF FIRE, 

In the spelling of Icelandic words, the best author- 
ities in this country have been followed, instead of 
the pure Icelandic, or the Continental standard; 
although to some extent, the Norse, with the marks 
of accent, occurs. Consequently, that uniformity and 
exactness which a Scandinavian scholar might desire 
was quite impossible. In some future edition, while 
of no importance to the general reader, a closer con- 
formity to the foreign standards of spelhng and pro- 
nunciation may appear. By those foreign authorities, 
''Norsemen" is preferred to ''Northmen," and 
" Norse " to " Norwegian." The termination " e " is 
employed instead of " i " in proper names ; as " Floke " 
instead of " Floki," and "Bjarne" rather than 
" Bjarni." 

" Naddoddr " is the Icelandic form of the word 
which is usually given " Naddodd ;" " Snorri Stur- 
luson " is Icelandic, but in Norway and Denmark the 
name was usually written " Snorre Sturleson ; " 
" * Pingvellir," or " Thingvalla," on the Continent 
we usually find written " Thing void." Now, it is for 
the reader to decide which spelling he prefers. 

" Logesagumadr," is Icelandic for " Proclaimer of 
Laws;" "Berserks," for " Berserkers; " " Thurid," 
for " Thurida ; " " Thorkel," for " ThorkiU ; " " Vi- 
dey," for "Vidoe;" " Skaptar-fel," for " Skaptaa- 
fell ; " " Morter-Skegg," for " Morttar-Skegg ; " 
" Thorgune," for " Thorgun ; " and " Stiptamtmadr," 
for " Stiptsamptonan." Hot springs referred to 
by travellers in certain places are said not now to 
exist; at least, do not send up columns of steam. 

*p = tii. 



ICELANDIC NAMES, 331 

The Black-plague, which moved with its eclipse of 
death over Iceland, swept over large portions of 
Europe, spreading desolation in London, Venice, 
and other cities. There are some other items of 
orthography and of narrative which are matters of 
preference and tradition, rather than of absolute 
authority. 

Prof. Bjarnasson, who was born in the eastern 
quarter of Iceland, and came to this country a year 
ago, gives some data which will interest those who 
are curious about details in regard to the original 
divisions and names. 

" Formerly Iceland was divided into four quarters 
Q Fj6rdtungr,' plur. ' Fj6rdungar ') : Nordlendinga- 
fjordungr, Sunnlendingafjordtngr, Austfirdingafjor- 
dungr and Vestfirdingafjordungr ; the three last of 
which were again divided into three ' ping ' (thing) 
each of them ; but the Nordlendingafjordungr into 
four ' ping,' as ' Hbhal,' which contained the most 
numerous population. The things of Sunnlendinga- 
fj6rdungr (the south quarter) were from west to 
east, Kjalarnes-ping, Arnes-ping, Pingsk &la-ping 
(or Rangar-ping) ; those of Austfirdingafj6rdungr 
the east quarter, Skaptar-ping, Kidjafells-ping, 
Sunnudals-ping ; those of Nordlendingafjordungr 
the north quarter, Pingeyjar-ping, Vadla-ping, 
Hegranes-ping, Hunavatns-ping ; those of Vestford- 
ingafj6rdungr the west quarter, Porfkafjardar-ping, 
Porsnes-ping, Pverarping or Pingnes-ping, each of 
the things embracing three ' godords ' (districts of 
the ' godi ') or more. The in^iabitants of Iceland are 
at present seventy thousand; those of the capital 



332 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

Reykjavik (reykja is geni plur. of reykr, which 
means smoke ; vik means a small hay)^ two thousand. 
Except Reykjavik, there are only two small cities 
in Iceland, — Akureyri on the north coast, and 
Isafjordr on the north-west coast. Oskjuhlid is a 
small, stony bluff in the near vicinity of Rej^kjavik. 
oskju, gen. sing, of askja, which means a small round 
box ; a butter-box is said to have been lost there, 
and thence the name ; hlid means a sloping hill ; 
' Seljadalr ' is a little green valley, through which 
the road leads from Reykjavik to Pingvellir (thing, 
congress, assembly, and vellir plur. of vollr, a plain) ; 
the word ' seljadalr ' means the valley Q dalr ') of 
' sels,' ' selja ' being gen. plur. of sel, which means 
a shepherd's hut and dairy in a mountain pasture, in 
Norway called Saeter. There have certainly, in past 
times, been such shepherd-huts in this valley ; but 
now there is none. I think ' Arne ' in Taylor's 
letters must be ' Arnarfells-jokull' or ' Hofs-jokuU,' 
a very extensive ice-plateau in about the middle of 
Iceland. The largest of the ' jokuUs ' in Iceland is 
the ' VatnajokuU,' the jokuU of waters, in the 
south-east part of the country, embracing one hun- 
dred and sixty geographical square miles." 

In the tales from the Sagas, the translator's orthog- 
raphy has been followed, with no attempt at critical 
revision with regard to Norse orthography or accent. 

There are two libraries in Iceland, one in Reykja- 
vik and the other in Akureyri. The one in Rej^kja- 
vik is the larger, and contained in 1870 about ten 
thousand volumes ; but the large donation of books 
sent from America in 1874, on the occasion of the 



NEWSPAPERS. 333 

millennial, together with additions made from other 
sources, has no doubt increased it to at least twenty- 
thousand volumes. For this library Iceland is in- 
debted to the celebrated, enthusiastic Danish scholar, 
Prof. C. C. Eafn. By his untiring efforts libraries 
were established both in Iceland and in Thorshafn, 
on the Faroe Isles. 

Iceland has for a long period had several newspa- 
pers. 

In proportion to the number of inhabitants, the 
newspapers have a large circulation, owing to the 
fact that all Icelanders are not only able to read, but 
like to read ; and especially do they take a deep 
interest in all matters pertaining to their own country. 
There is scarcely a hamlet, be it ever so humble, 
where there cannot be found a political newspaper. 

The two oldest papers in Iceland are '' Thodolfr," 
'' The National," and " Nordanfari," " The Northern- 
Farer." 

" Thodolfr " has lately changed hands, and is now 
owned and edited by the most famous living poet of 
Iceland, Matthias Jochunson. This paper is excel- 
lently edited. It contains editorial leaders which 
manifest a patriotic interest in the affairs of Iceland ; 
it gives a synopsis of the most important events from 
the political arena of the great nations ; it furnishes 
correspondence from Copenhagen and London ; and 
criticises every thing of importance in literature, 
especially if in any way touching Iceland. It is 
printed on good paper, in clear, readable type. 

'' Nordanfari " is published at Akureyri, in the 
north of Iceland, by Bjorn Jonsson, and is in every 



834 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

way a respectable paper, but has not tbe literary 
ability of " Thddolfr." 

In the struggles against the oppression of Iceland 
by the Danish government, " Thodolfr " and " Nor- 
danfari " fearlessly defended the cause of Iceland ; 
and these papers were supported, on one hand, by J6n 
Sigurdsson, a most excellent Icelander, who at present 
resides in Copenhagen, takes a most intense interest 
in the welfare of Iceland, and under his auspices is 
published an Icelandic annual called " Ny Fela- 
gerit," which of course also supported the national 
cause ; and, on the other hand, by the very talented 
and energetic poet Jon Olafsson, who is now in 
Alaska, in company with two other Icelanders, to 
see whether this American possession is suitable for 
an Icelandic colony. This J6n Olafsson edited an 
able paper called '' Gongu-Krolfr," but the Danish 
governor of the island charged him with high trea- 
son : he was found guilty by a Danish court, and 
fined ; and, although the fine was paid by a volun- 
tary subscription from Mr. Olafsson's friends, he 
still found it advisable to leave the country, and so 
he came to America ; and his paper, as a matter of 
course, stopped. 

A paper called " Islendingur " (The Icelander) 
flourished some years ago in Reykjavik ; but, if the 
writer mistake not, it died and was buried in the 
year 1865 or 1866. 

Then we have " Timiun " (The Times), which 
was started in 1871, neutral in its tendencies, and, so 
far as we know, still flourishing. 

Finally '' Vikverji " was started in 1873, and took a 



LITERATURE. 335 

decided position in favor of the Danish government. 
What the political tendencies of that paper now are 
we cannot say with absolute certainty, but we should 
judge that it has taken sides with the national party ; 
for, from a letter written by the poet J6n Olafsson, 
it seems that he is a correspondent for it. It may, 
therefore, be inferred that Danish governmentim is 
a '' lost cause " in Iceland. 

There are, besides these political papers, a couple of 
literary magazines that do the Icelanders marked 
credit ; and a considerable number of books are pub- 
lished in Reykjavik, the famous capital of Iceland. 
Thus it will be seen that the Icelanders, in proportion 
to their numerical strength, need not be ashamed of 
their periodical literature. 

Of the ecclesiastical annals, which include so 
largely general history. Prof. Bjarnasson says, — 

" The precious ' Historia Ecclesiastica Islandiae ' 
(i.-iii. tomi, 4to. Havniae, about 1775) by Finnur 
Jdnsson (Finnus Johannaeus), bishop of Skalholt 
diocese in Iceland, 1789, is indispensable ; but that 
work, written in Latin, is very difficult to get. This 
work has been continued after the death of its author, 
until almost the middle of this century, by the Rev. 
Petur Petursson, the present bishop of Iceland, 
' Historia Ecclesiastica Isl.,' one volume 4to., edited 
in Copenhagen, about the year 1840." 

Formerly, Iceland was divided into two dioceses : 
that of H61ar embracing the northern. quarter, and 
that of Skalholt embracing the eastern, southern, 
and western quarters of the country. 

At the beginning of this century, the t^wo dioceses 



336 TEE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

were combined; and the names of the Icelandic 
bishops, residing at Reykjavik or in the vicinity of 
it, are as follows : — 

Geir Jonsson Vidalin, 1823, Steingrimur Jdnsson, 
1836, Helgi Gudmundarson Thordersen, 1867, and 
since then, Petur Petursson. 

To the sportsman who is not of delicate constitu- 
tion, nor nice about accommodations, Iceland is a 
paradise. There are reindeer, the white and blue 
fox, wild fowl, and fish. At Myvatn fifty brace of 
the ptarmigan have been '' bagged " in a single day. 

The fishing is nowhere surpassed, and is free to 
any one " who cares to pursue the gentle craft." 
Disciples of Izaak Walton have "killed nineteen 
fish in three hours, weighing thirty-nine pounds." 
Salmon, trout, and char are favorite game, and may 
be caught with minnows and flies ; of the latter the 
grilse is the best. 

Expenses of travelling in Iceland will vary, as 
everywhere, according to one's means, and the free- 
dom with which they are expended ; but will average 
about three dollars per day. The ponies may be 
purchased or hired, the latter method being the least 
expensive if well managed. 

The tour of Baring- Gould, from London through 
the western and northern portions of Iceland, during 
the months of June and July, 1862, including his 
voyages from London and back, cost him a hundred 
pounds, or five hundred dollars of our money. 

He says of his farewell, " I was sorry to leave 
Iceland ; for I had spent many happy days in it, and 
had learned to feel a very strong attachment to the 
wildly beautiful island." 



NATIONAL MELODIES, 337 

Commander Forbes, R.N., closes his annals with 
similar expressions of admiring interest : " Though 
my sojourn in the far north may be only reckoned 
by weeks, the open-hearted hospitality which every- 
where welcomed me, from the governor to the peas- 
ant, had converted those weeks into years, as regards 
identifying myself with their island-home, and the 
many sympathies which their peculiar position de- 
mands. For, in world-wide experience of wandering 
by sea and land, I have seldom met a community less 
influenced by ulterior objects, or whose innate ingen- 
uousness more commended itself at first sight; for 
their very weaknesses deserve to be tenderly con- 
sidered, and certainly, as a Britisher, I felt no right 
to throw stones. And it was with feelings of poig- 
nant regret that I mechanically foMowed my port- 
manteau to the steamer, and turned my back on 
Iceland." 

We have received from Prof. Bjarnasson Icelandic 
national melodies, whose serious undertone is entirely 
characteristic of the people. He says of them : — 

" The first and second of them are old national 
ones ; and, as for the best of those hymns, they are 
both funeral, the former always being sung while 
the grave is filled up with earth. The author of that 
hymn is the most celebrated of all Icelandic psalmists, 
the Rev. Hallgrimur P^tursson (1864). The third 
melody is composed by my father-in-law, Pdtur Gud- 
jdnsson, organist at the cathedral of Reykjavik, who 
also has harmonized the other two. He is the author 
of an Icelandic choral book ('' Islenzk salma scings-og 
messub6k." Kaupsmannahofn, 1861). I only send 

29 



838 THE ISLAND OF FIRE. 

these melodies to you as specimens of Icelandic 
churcli-music. There are not a few of the same 
kind. As you see, those melodies are rendered in 
the thorough bass. I send you a prose version of the 
first of those hymns, which I have translated into 
Norwegian (Danish), that you might get an idea of 
the contents of one genuine Icelandic hymn." 

We give specimens, introducing the first with two 
stanzas in the original. Prof. Anderson has made a 
literal translation, without an attempt at metrical 

arrangement. 

I. 

" Allt eins og blbmstrid eina." 

1. 

ligesom den fagre og frodige Blomst, der tidlig i Morgenstnnden 
fremspirer paa Marken, i et Oieblik afmeies og med det sam me ned- 
laegger sine farvede Blade, saaledes ender det menneskelige Ldv i 
en Hast. 

2. 

Saaledes iler saavel den spsede Ungdom som dem modige Alder- 
dom lienad Dodens dunkle Vei. Ailing skrider frem paa den sam 
me Bane. Fntet Menneske bar modtaget Pant paa sin Levetids For- 
loengelse, ivertimod have Alle maattet f orpligte sig til at gaae herfra, 

SON^G NO. 1. 

As the fair and flourishing flower, that early in the morning hour 
shoots forth in the field, in a moment is cut down, and immediately 
sheds its gorgeous leaves, thus human life suddenly ends. 

It therefore truly seems to me, that death maybe likened. unto 
an energetic reaper, who cuts down all that comes before him, and 
regards the green herbs, the beautiful, shining flower, the reeds, the 
rushes, and the fair roses, the one as valueless as the other. 

Human life hastens, without delay, onward to the outstretched 
arms of cruel death ; and the prey is received in the grave. The 
ways of all the world lead to the same end. Willing or unwilling, 
one must go, whether it be with pleasure or sadness. 

Neither by my station, nor by my power, have I maintained 
my life. The soul is as a loan, united with the body. It is in the 

OCT 20 il^T 



J 



ICELANDIC MELODIES. 339 

power of the Lord to call back to Mmself wliat belongs to Mm. 
We may therefore say that death is a messenger, who shall bring 
back what belongs to the Creator. 

I know my kind Saviour lives in heaven. He rules all things. 
Jesus, he the true victor of death, died himself on the cross, on 
which he gave me a sure hope. 

By this death he slew death, and gained victory. He destroyed 
the mighty power of death. Nothing can harm me : although my 
body is laid in the earth, my soul will live and be free. In the hap- 
piness of heaven, no harm can come to it. 

Jesus lives in my memory. Whether I am out or in, whether I 
wake or sleep, I give myself into his power. He is my strength 
and support. He is my real life. In him will I confide with all my 
heart. He alleviates the pain of death. 

I live and die in the name of Jesus. Although health and life 
depart from me, I fear not death. Death, I am not alarmed at thy 
mighty power. With the power of Christ, I exclaim. Be welcome 
when thou comest ! 

II. FIRST STANZA. 

Let me, O Lord, each day remember death; and let me never for- 
get that my time approaches its end. Enlighten my heart, my Lord 1 
that I may fear thy judgment, which will be rendered on the last 
day.. Praise God, praise him all who can ! All nations, gladly honor 
him! 

m. FIRST STANZA. 

All men, in all lands, praise Jehovah always. Honor the Lord of 
hosts every day. As his mercies are known unto the races of the 
earth, he will not forget the inhabitants of this land. He is firm and 
steadfast in his love to us. All that can stir the breath, honor him. 
All that is bom, honor him and praise him. Amen, 



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